AC unit in Cerbera
Discussion
Hi Guys,
I am having trouble with the running temperature on my 98 4.5 cerbie. Sometimes it runs at 85/90 degrees but most of the time its 105. I was losing a small amount of water so I added some barrs leaks, which appeared to have solved that one. I them bought at Pistonfest some wetter water and that seens to have helped but it still runs hot.
My dealer has pressure tested it and could find no leaks, and I have checked the fans and they do cut in around 107 degrees.
Oh and Ive have started to use optimax to see if it runs cooler with that fuel.
Now looking under the bonnet on the nearside, underneath the radiator there is a pool of water? It looks clean water? could this be where the AC unit dumps?
I am having trouble with the running temperature on my 98 4.5 cerbie. Sometimes it runs at 85/90 degrees but most of the time its 105. I was losing a small amount of water so I added some barrs leaks, which appeared to have solved that one. I them bought at Pistonfest some wetter water and that seens to have helped but it still runs hot.
My dealer has pressure tested it and could find no leaks, and I have checked the fans and they do cut in around 107 degrees.
Oh and Ive have started to use optimax to see if it runs cooler with that fuel.
Now looking under the bonnet on the nearside, underneath the radiator there is a pool of water? It looks clean water? could this be where the AC unit dumps?
Mine has been doing the same with the temperature. Runs at 100-105 through town/slow traffic and about 80-85 if I'm having a motorway or backroad blast.
Haven't noticed if I'm losing much, I'll top it up in the morning and keep an eye on it over the next week or so.
I would imagine the pool of water at the front is the A/C (mine doesn't work at the moment but other cars used to leave a pool), stand to be corrected though.
On the other thread about the fans I was told that the gauge is not very accurate but the ECU controls when the fans cut in so it may or may not be 107, depends what the ECU is reading.
Haven't noticed if I'm losing much, I'll top it up in the morning and keep an eye on it over the next week or so.
I would imagine the pool of water at the front is the A/C (mine doesn't work at the moment but other cars used to leave a pool), stand to be corrected though.
On the other thread about the fans I was told that the gauge is not very accurate but the ECU controls when the fans cut in so it may or may not be 107, depends what the ECU is reading.
Sportie
The temperature gauges all read totally different, and can be up to 10 degree out from what I have heard.
That said, and by way of calibration, I see my car run at 85-90 on a fast road too - which would suggest that our temperature gauges are similar - and the car rarely goes above 100 degrees. Are both of your fans cutting in (there will be two since you have A/C).
I should get it down to the dealer and have them measure the REAL temperature of the engine to check that all is well. If only so you can relax in traffic. If you are like me you are paranoid about the temperature gauge moving, and sitting in traffic is distinctly uncomfortable sometimes while you worry about whether or not the car can deal with the heat.
Don;t worry too much about the Radweld. I have had a TVR dealer, and Joolz suggest that it is OK to use Radweld in the past.
Hope car is still running well.
As has been said on a different thread, I would run the A/C quite a lot on a hot day, windows open or not, since it cools the fuel down, and helps prevent vapourisation and stalling when the engine is hot.
Cheers
The temperature gauges all read totally different, and can be up to 10 degree out from what I have heard.
That said, and by way of calibration, I see my car run at 85-90 on a fast road too - which would suggest that our temperature gauges are similar - and the car rarely goes above 100 degrees. Are both of your fans cutting in (there will be two since you have A/C).
I should get it down to the dealer and have them measure the REAL temperature of the engine to check that all is well. If only so you can relax in traffic. If you are like me you are paranoid about the temperature gauge moving, and sitting in traffic is distinctly uncomfortable sometimes while you worry about whether or not the car can deal with the heat.
Don;t worry too much about the Radweld. I have had a TVR dealer, and Joolz suggest that it is OK to use Radweld in the past.
Hope car is still running well.
As has been said on a different thread, I would run the A/C quite a lot on a hot day, windows open or not, since it cools the fuel down, and helps prevent vapourisation and stalling when the engine is hot.
Cheers
[quote]
The temperature gauges all read totally different, and can be up to 10 degree out from what I have heard.
[/quote]
Yep. Was concerned about my fan kicking in @ 105deg so had it checked out on the laptop at its service. Turns out the gauge reads 10deg high.
I used to be a bit paranoid about running temp but I think as long as your own car sticks to its own usual thing and doesn't stray from that norm then you can relax.
The temperature gauges all read totally different, and can be up to 10 degree out from what I have heard.
[/quote]
Yep. Was concerned about my fan kicking in @ 105deg so had it checked out on the laptop at its service. Turns out the gauge reads 10deg high.
I used to be a bit paranoid about running temp but I think as long as your own car sticks to its own usual thing and doesn't stray from that norm then you can relax.
My comments for what they're worth.
1. Got really worried the other day - fans wern't on at 105 Deg or so. However ECU read 92 deg as coolant temp & therefore the fans weren't running so all in order. Its easy to think that because its a hot day & the guage is high - the lump under the bonnet is too hot. Not always the case.
2. I'm reliably informed that the radiators are prone to failure at the bottom nearside corner. Mine was collecting there - losing 1/4 litre a fortnight. Took the RADWELD route as an interim measure(on very good independent advice!!!)& leak has cleared. The car has done nearly 1.5K since & no probs. Infact it loses zero coolant now. I keep a regular eye on the fibreglass lip beneath the rad to check for dampness though.
Nick.
1. Got really worried the other day - fans wern't on at 105 Deg or so. However ECU read 92 deg as coolant temp & therefore the fans weren't running so all in order. Its easy to think that because its a hot day & the guage is high - the lump under the bonnet is too hot. Not always the case.
2. I'm reliably informed that the radiators are prone to failure at the bottom nearside corner. Mine was collecting there - losing 1/4 litre a fortnight. Took the RADWELD route as an interim measure(on very good independent advice!!!)& leak has cleared. The car has done nearly 1.5K since & no probs. Infact it loses zero coolant now. I keep a regular eye on the fibreglass lip beneath the rad to check for dampness though.
Nick.
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