How do you make the fans come on earlier????
Discussion
Was stuck in traffic for quite a while today and the engine was getting fairly hot before the fans cut in (up to about 103 degrees). It seems a bit late. Eventually the engine just stalled on a roundabout and wouldn't start for a few minutes!!!!
Is there anything you can do to make them come on earlier? I saw something on the other forums about getting a manual switch put in but I seem to remember hearing that the cerbera is a little more technical than that.
Also, the temp gauge flickers when it is up around the 95 mark. Possible problems/solutions?????
Thanks
Andy
Is there anything you can do to make them come on earlier? I saw something on the other forums about getting a manual switch put in but I seem to remember hearing that the cerbera is a little more technical than that.
Also, the temp gauge flickers when it is up around the 95 mark. Possible problems/solutions?????
Thanks
Andy
Weird. I had a stalling problem today as well.
Had no troubles with mine before, but today we took the
Cerbera and my brothers Griff for a long run through
some fast lanes to see some old friends.
We stayed about 45 mins before going to call on 3 other
locations all of whom were out.
While waiting outside the last house, my oil pressure
dropped and before I could react, the car stalled.
The oil / water had been checked before we left and
all readings were fine prior to the stall with oil
idling at about 30 and temp happy at about 90.
Trying to restart, the management light was flickering
and all it wanted to do was turn over.
After 3-4 mins I tried again and it sounded like it
was flooded and by keeping the starter on, it fired
after about 10 seconds.
The oil gauge remained unstable for about 5 mins and then
the car returned to normal and has been fine since.
Common problem?
Apart from that blip, had a wonderful day out with the car
and was using Optimax for the first time, certainly seemed
to make the car run smoother.
Never had such a buzz like this about any car before!
Had no troubles with mine before, but today we took the
Cerbera and my brothers Griff for a long run through
some fast lanes to see some old friends.
We stayed about 45 mins before going to call on 3 other
locations all of whom were out.
While waiting outside the last house, my oil pressure
dropped and before I could react, the car stalled.
The oil / water had been checked before we left and
all readings were fine prior to the stall with oil
idling at about 30 and temp happy at about 90.
Trying to restart, the management light was flickering
and all it wanted to do was turn over.
After 3-4 mins I tried again and it sounded like it
was flooded and by keeping the starter on, it fired
after about 10 seconds.
The oil gauge remained unstable for about 5 mins and then
the car returned to normal and has been fine since.
Common problem?
Apart from that blip, had a wonderful day out with the car
and was using Optimax for the first time, certainly seemed
to make the car run smoother.
Never had such a buzz like this about any car before!
Hello,
I don't think 103 degrees is anything to worry about. My fans tend not to come on until 100-105 degrees. Cerbs do seem to suffer from hot-start problems though. If I leave my car for about 20 mins (after a good thrash) and then hop back in it used to start and then die - only rectified by applying the throttle to about 2k for a few mins. I was informed that is is due to fuel vaporisation in the pipes. I have since had it looked at and it doesn't do this anymore. I understand that the air-con pipes run near the fuel lines and putting the air-con on can help reduce this. This could be your problem - then again I am no expert. Hopefully someone can clarify it a little better.
I took the car to the Alps about 10 days after I bought it and had loads of vapouristaion problems - on a steep hill, in the heat, in traffic and with a useless handbrake - was not much fun trying to keep the engine alive and hillstart.
Tony
I don't think 103 degrees is anything to worry about. My fans tend not to come on until 100-105 degrees. Cerbs do seem to suffer from hot-start problems though. If I leave my car for about 20 mins (after a good thrash) and then hop back in it used to start and then die - only rectified by applying the throttle to about 2k for a few mins. I was informed that is is due to fuel vaporisation in the pipes. I have since had it looked at and it doesn't do this anymore. I understand that the air-con pipes run near the fuel lines and putting the air-con on can help reduce this. This could be your problem - then again I am no expert. Hopefully someone can clarify it a little better.
I took the car to the Alps about 10 days after I bought it and had loads of vapouristaion problems - on a steep hill, in the heat, in traffic and with a useless handbrake - was not much fun trying to keep the engine alive and hillstart.
Tony
remember the fans are operated by the ECU, it's its temperature feed is electronic. The temp gauge is quite separate and works 'mechanically' [or whatever the correct descrption is] 'barometer' style. The temperature gauges aren't that accurate, so don't assume 100 degrees on the gauge is really 100 degrees. The original gauge I had always showed 105 in traffic and I just didn't beleive it, so put another gauge in which read 95.
Next time the car has its ECO wired up to the diagnostic software, have a look at the temperature the ECU is reading versus what the gauge is showing. It's probably goo to have an idea if the gauge is reading high, low or accurately; assuming of course the ECU sensor is OK. If it fails though you'll get the MIL light staying on.
Also, if you've got problems with ruinning in hot weather, does the can have aircon? The aircon cars have 2 rad fans instead of one, but more importantly there's a cooler for the fuel feed at the front of the engine to stop vapourisation.
WB
Next time the car has its ECO wired up to the diagnostic software, have a look at the temperature the ECU is reading versus what the gauge is showing. It's probably goo to have an idea if the gauge is reading high, low or accurately; assuming of course the ECU sensor is OK. If it fails though you'll get the MIL light staying on.
Also, if you've got problems with ruinning in hot weather, does the can have aircon? The aircon cars have 2 rad fans instead of one, but more importantly there's a cooler for the fuel feed at the front of the engine to stop vapourisation.
WB
Sounds like that could be what it was. Strange though cause the day after I got it I spent a couple of hours pottering round town with no probs at all.
The car has been starting great hot and cold.
The other day though I started it cold, it stalled and the MIL light came on (not sure if it came on before or after the stall). I switched off the car, restarted and everything was normal.
If the problem is fuel vaporisation then surely if you have the fans coming on at say 85 then everything would be cooler and hence less problems.
I'm no expert at this and still trying to figure out the finer points of keeping a cerb running smoothly.
The car has been starting great hot and cold.
The other day though I started it cold, it stalled and the MIL light came on (not sure if it came on before or after the stall). I switched off the car, restarted and everything was normal.
If the problem is fuel vaporisation then surely if you have the fans coming on at say 85 then everything would be cooler and hence less problems.
I'm no expert at this and still trying to figure out the finer points of keeping a cerb running smoothly.
The poor running when hot is most likely to be fuel vapourisation. The gauge 'flicking' is either a faulty gauge but most likely to be air in the cooling system. the cerberas cooling system can be tricky to bleed and often takes a few attempts, something not all dealers bother to do. I have seen almost brand new demonstrators do this.
The temp gauge is a capillary (sp?) type gauge so is mechanical and doesn't necessarily bear any relation to what the ecu thinks the engine temp is. Get a dealer to check with the laptop (as mentioned previously).
Generally not something to particularly worry about (even though I am paranoid about it
)
Rob.
The temp gauge is a capillary (sp?) type gauge so is mechanical and doesn't necessarily bear any relation to what the ecu thinks the engine temp is. Get a dealer to check with the laptop (as mentioned previously).
Generally not something to particularly worry about (even though I am paranoid about it
) Rob.
williamball/ro_butler
Thanks for the replies... I'm not too worried about the actual temperature reading, so long as the fans cut in when they are supposed to but it would get quite annoying if it becomes a regular thing on the road. Is there a procedure to bleed the cooling system that can be done in my garage or is it best left to a dealer/independent???
My A/C is the next project, it does have it but is missing the two small alloy pipes from the compressor. I'm going to fit them and then get it pressure tested and gassed if everything is ok.
Does the second fan work without the A/C on or is it linked to it???? I haven't looked at that yet, just assumed it needed both to keep it cool.
I assume the cooler for the fuel feed should work regardless of wether the A/C is or isn't on??
Andy
Thanks for the replies... I'm not too worried about the actual temperature reading, so long as the fans cut in when they are supposed to but it would get quite annoying if it becomes a regular thing on the road. Is there a procedure to bleed the cooling system that can be done in my garage or is it best left to a dealer/independent???
My A/C is the next project, it does have it but is missing the two small alloy pipes from the compressor. I'm going to fit them and then get it pressure tested and gassed if everything is ok.
Does the second fan work without the A/C on or is it linked to it???? I haven't looked at that yet, just assumed it needed both to keep it cool.
I assume the cooler for the fuel feed should work regardless of wether the A/C is or isn't on??
Andy
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