Just before I buy
Discussion
Had a great test drive this afternoon and think I'm going to go ahead with the purchase (woo-hoo). But as I've dithered for so long over getting the right one I still have a couple of questions I was hoping some of you may be able to help me on.
According to the missus (yes she had to drive too), the MIL light remained on during the return leg. What does this mean? Big deal?
How much would a set of 4 second hand 17" Raceline Alloys cost? I know they don't make them any more and they're porous but they just look sooo good.
Cheers.
According to the missus (yes she had to drive too), the MIL light remained on during the return leg. What does this mean? Big deal?
How much would a set of 4 second hand 17" Raceline Alloys cost? I know they don't make them any more and they're porous but they just look sooo good.
Cheers.
Don't know why the MIL light would be on - certainly there's something wrong, but I guess (someone will almost certainly correct me) that it's a general 'fault' light which could indicate anything from a disconnected wire, failed sensor to a fault code in the ECU. It shouldn't be on, anyway.
However, you're in luck re: the wheels - there are some for sale in classifieds here!
However, you're in luck re: the wheels - there are some for sale in classifieds here!
acrbeer, do NOT buy the car until the fault causing the MIL light to come on has been rectified. I would also want to know what the problem was, and satisfy myself that it has been dealt with correctly.
Is this a private sale or through a dealer? Any dealer worth his/her salt would never sell a car with an MIL fault. A private seller doing so is playing on the ignorance of the buyer.
Is this a private sale or through a dealer? Any dealer worth his/her salt would never sell a car with an MIL fault. A private seller doing so is playing on the ignorance of the buyer.
Thanks for your comments. The car is through a dealer. They are going to give it a full 36K service before purchase but I shall make sure the MIL light irregularity is explained.
Futie, thanks for the wheel alloys link. I'm hoping to include an alloy change as part of the deal as one of the existing wheels has been curbed a little. No harm in asking.
All I need now is a radio link to a couple of blokes in a van and hopefully I'll secure those all important mud flaps!
Futie, thanks for the wheel alloys link. I'm hoping to include an alloy change as part of the deal as one of the existing wheels has been curbed a little. No harm in asking.
All I need now is a radio link to a couple of blokes in a van and hopefully I'll secure those all important mud flaps!
MIL light can be caused by a number of things but I think the main one is a faulty lambda sensor. The dealer will be able to find out easily by plugging a laptop into the ecu and reading the fault code.
I saw some racelines in one of those max power type magazines recently. The advert reckoned RL7's were available in 15" to 18" sizes. Bear in mind that the quality of the originals was s*it.
The company in question was called 'revolution', give em a ring on 0191 477 0785 and see if they were lying in their advert.
HTH
Rob.
I saw some racelines in one of those max power type magazines recently. The advert reckoned RL7's were available in 15" to 18" sizes. Bear in mind that the quality of the originals was s*it.
The company in question was called 'revolution', give em a ring on 0191 477 0785 and see if they were lying in their advert.
HTH
Rob.
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