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I've decided to have a go at replacing the horrible "canvas" sack-cloth type trim in my half-hide '97 4.2 Cerbera myself. I do have some questions though - such as where's a good place for materials (suede, leather, etc.), how do you get around certain bends without having to cut the materials, and how do I get access to the rear shelf (behind the rear seats) to be able to best cover it?
Any advice would be useful - I'm anxious to redo some trim whilst the thing's off the road waiting for "stuttering" problem to be fixed (don't want to drive it on 6 cylinders)
Any advice would be useful - I'm anxious to redo some trim whilst the thing's off the road waiting for "stuttering" problem to be fixed (don't want to drive it on 6 cylinders)
Hi Chris,
The stuff you saw in mine yesterday came from Auto Accoustics - www.auto-acoustics.co.uk/dinamica.htm and retails for 39.00 per roll metre. The roll is 1.4m wide which means you have enough from 1m to do both front doors. To stick it on I used acoustic cloth glue from Halfords (fiver a can) which sprays a "web" of glue over the material and doesn't soak through. Not sure about the rear parcel shelf but dealer once told me it's easy to take out. Although looking at the contours it may be a bu**er to recover.
Cheers, Fred.
>> Edited by FredW on Sunday 27th April 18:20
The stuff you saw in mine yesterday came from Auto Accoustics - www.auto-acoustics.co.uk/dinamica.htm and retails for 39.00 per roll metre. The roll is 1.4m wide which means you have enough from 1m to do both front doors. To stick it on I used acoustic cloth glue from Halfords (fiver a can) which sprays a "web" of glue over the material and doesn't soak through. Not sure about the rear parcel shelf but dealer once told me it's easy to take out. Although looking at the contours it may be a bu**er to recover.
Cheers, Fred.
>> Edited by FredW on Sunday 27th April 18:20
The rear shelf comes out no problem, go into the boot and above the fuel tank you will see a butterfly nut that holds part of it in. There are also fixings in the top of the two rear seats.
I have had mine re-done along with the door panels and the two front speaker area's. I provided the leather hide, £50 from a discount supplier and paid £75 for a local trimmer to do the work.
I have had mine re-done along with the door panels and the two front speaker area's. I provided the leather hide, £50 from a discount supplier and paid £75 for a local trimmer to do the work.
Hey Fred ... good to hear from you. Thanks a ton for the info (after I left APM, I had trouble remembering what the hell the stuff was called!! Must be me getting old or something? :-)
Great news about the rear shelf being accessible so easily too - could kill 2 birds with one stone and fit an aerial in the back at the same time.
Great news about the rear shelf being accessible so easily too - could kill 2 birds with one stone and fit an aerial in the back at the same time.
Yarwoods. near leeds.
www.yarwood.co.uk
typically £120 for a full hide,that will easily do doors and rear sections.
mike.
www.yarwood.co.uk
typically £120 for a full hide,that will easily do doors and rear sections.
mike.
I'm getting the "final" quote this afternoon but its looking like around the £800-900 mark (cash - no VAT) for both front seats completely recovered in leather (that's all leather, not leather and vinyl panels), door panels (replacing sack-cloth) with same leather, same for roof lining and rear shelf. 3-4 days work, 10 days lead time, they come to collect seats, etc. (take them out of the car, take them away and return them when done).
Yeah, I think that might have been me. I've had my roof, doors and rear shelf done in suede. Very sexy I seem to have forgot where I had it done though it was one of the guys from the back of the TVRCC magazine though. I think it was about £230 . There is a point on the rear pillars where rear window prevents access to the trim (unless you remove the window). But you can only see it from certain very reclined angles nuf said...
Steve
Grey 4.2 Cerbie
Steve
Grey 4.2 Cerbie
Does anyone know what surface is left when the door trim is ripped off? Do I literally "rip" it off, or do I soak it in something first then "lift" it off? Once off, is the undersurface smooth or rough (I ask because I'm preparing tools required - do I need sandpaper and the suchlike?)
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