body removal

[c7mct]

THIS WEEKEND THE CLUTCH FAILED ON MY 98 4.5, WHEN ON THE RAMPS I TOOK A LOOK AT THE UNDERSIDE OF THE CAR. I WAS SERIOUSLY SHOCKED TO FIND EXTENSIVE RUST TO AREAS OF THE CHASSIS AND SUSPENSION PARTS. I REALLY LIKE THE CAR AND INTEND KEEPING IT FOR A LONG TIME. I DO NOT WANT TO DO HALF A JOB SO OVER THE WINTER I AM GOING TO TAKE THE BODY OFF, SHOT BLAST THE ENTIRE CHASSIS/SUSPENSION AND RE-POWDER COAT USING A HIGH PROTECTION EPOXY POWDER.
HAS ANYBODY HAD TO TAKE THE BODY OFF A CERBERA, IF SO WHAT IS INVOLVED AND HOW LONG DID IT TAKE.

[tvrjohn]

As a guide TVR factory book 90 hours for a chassis change on a Griff.

Have had same problem with my Cerb
so have stripped all front suspension off, rust treated it and several coats of smooth hammerite.
The best that can be done without body lift !

[davidd]

I know this is not apples for apples but it took me about a weekend to get the body off my 1600M. Obviously the Cerbera has a lot more wiring and pipework but it is basically disconnect everything lift off, fix and put back.

Hoho how simple does that sound Maybe I'll do mine over easter (NOT)

[srootsey]

THIS WEEKEND THE CLUTCH FAILED ON MY 98 4.5, WHEN ON THE RAMPS I TOOK A LOOK AT THE UNDERSIDE OF THE CAR. I WAS SERIOUSLY SHOCKED TO FIND EXTENSIVE RUST TO AREAS OF THE CHASSIS AND SUSPENSION PARTS. I REALLY LIKE THE CAR AND INTEND KEEPING IT FOR A LONG TIME. I DO NOT WANT TO DO HALF A JOB SO OVER THE WINTER I AM GOING TO TAKE THE BODY OFF, SHOT BLAST THE ENTIRE CHASSIS/SUSPENSION AND RE-POWDER COAT USING A HIGH PROTECTION EPOXY POWDER.
HAS ANYBODY HAD TO TAKE THE BODY OFF A CERBERA, IF SO WHAT IS INVOLVED AND HOW LONG DID IT TAKE.

I WOULD JUST LIKE TO SAY DONT JUST EPOXY POWDER COAT IT. EPOXY POWDER IS FOR INDOOR USE ONLY. YOU NEED A POLYESTER POWDER. A ZINC RICH POWDER PRIMER WOULD HOLD OFF RUST CREEP WHICH WOULD BE A LOT BETTER THAN TVR ORIGINAL PAINT. PHONE DORMER AND SONS IN WEMBLEY AND ASK FOR STEVE. HE IS AN EXPERT IN CHASSIS AND FRAMES ECT. 02089033216

>> Edited by srootsey on Tuesday 8th April 20:44

>> Edited by srootsey on Tuesday 8th April 20:45

[stickshaker4185]

Have to say I agree with srootsey about powder coating. It is widely used because of its easy application and good initial finish.

The trouble is that when it receives even a small scrape or chip, the steel underneath quickly oxidises. This then encourages the surrounding coating to detatch and the whole situation becomes progressively worse.

Powder (epoxy) coating is too brittle for heavy duty applications, and very difficult to re-seal/repair in situ. When I last had the engine out, I stripped the front of the chassis and after preparing it, sprayed it in two pack paint of the same colour.

It then got 4 thin coats of clear waxoyl applied hot with a pressure gun. Still looks fine now after 18 months and is much easier to repair if you keep on top of it.

It's probably not the best way of doing it, but it does seem to have worked.

[suffolkfox]

Hi - I too am not a fan of powder coat. Having had various rusting Alfa Romeos over the years, as an alternative to spray paint, you might like to look at a heavy zinc paint like Unidox. This is like liquid metal and comes as a brush application (or can be thinned for spraying), and out-performed other proprietory treatments in a Practical Classics test. Two coats of this stuff and it will reseal itself over scratches, stone chips etc. Add some waxoyl and you have a virtually rustproof covering.
The main supplier is a small specialist site www.btinternet.com/~mallard/zinc.htm run by a guy called Roger Brason supplying vintage car collectors. Good luck with the clean-up & work - Jerry
C6RBR roars when it rocks

[trevorlittlelegs]

hi all regards chassis painting
i am in the process of taking the body off my s and doing a repaint etc
i have built a few kit cars and have tried powder coating and good old paint and have to say powder coating is not a lot of good it chips off and the the water gets in and you are screwed
i am using a zinc primer after blasting called galvafiod (ignore the spelling it is used in the building industry to paint steel work in and out and i have used it on bear metal and it seems to work it is a cold galvenising coating you can get it in spray or brushable once this is applied the hard to get areas will get red oxide then black smootherite all over if this gets chipped you have then got 2 other layers of protection and it is easy to touch up if need be put some waxoil on o make sure
the last powdercated chassis i had was on 7 copy and was rusting before it got on the road
the galv paint can be purchased from any fixings company like tolways etc i think even b&q sell it ?
good luck (ps dont use turps based gloss as any oil or fuel and it will disolve !