Jacking points and bulbs, please help!
Discussion
Fellow Cerb owners please help.......
Notice that my front off side main beam not working. Fingering through the owners manual about changing bulbs requiring jacking up the front, removing the wheel to get to circular access panel. Where is the jacking point underneath? (previous old threads not that clear) as the last thing i want to do is damage the underneath. A good description/picture or even diagram would be ideal (points awarded for accuracy, style and realism
)
Also is there a particular part number/make of bulb (available at local Halfords?) manual says 55/65w.
I own a P reg 4.2 with original lights.
Thanks in advance
Chris
Notice that my front off side main beam not working. Fingering through the owners manual about changing bulbs requiring jacking up the front, removing the wheel to get to circular access panel. Where is the jacking point underneath? (previous old threads not that clear) as the last thing i want to do is damage the underneath. A good description/picture or even diagram would be ideal (points awarded for accuracy, style and realism
) Also is there a particular part number/make of bulb (available at local Halfords?) manual says 55/65w.
I own a P reg 4.2 with original lights.
Thanks in advance
Chris
Not sure where the jacking points are or what the original bulb part nos are but apparently the access panel is held on with screws AND mastick, so make sure you've got some.
Sounds pretty obvious but I hate going to start a job only to find you've got to go back down the shops for something.
Hope someone else can be more help.
>> Edited by ro_butler on Saturday 22 March 09:08
Sounds pretty obvious but I hate going to start a job only to find you've got to go back down the shops for something.
Hope someone else can be more help.
>> Edited by ro_butler on Saturday 22 March 09:08
TVR Freak states:
Jacking up points
The simple solution is to jack up the whole side of the car. Put the jack under the joint in he chassis that is around about the midpoint between the front and rear wheels. That way you don't twist the car by just jacking up a corner, which resulted in cracked windshields in early cars. It also lets you do 2 wheels at a time.
If you can slide a jack far enough under the car in the front middle to get to the steel cross beam, you can jack up the entire front of the car as well. You need to clear all the fibreglass and raise the car from the cross beam only. Removing the inner bonnet will help you locate the jack properly, until you get the hang of it.
hope this helps
Jacking up points
The simple solution is to jack up the whole side of the car. Put the jack under the joint in he chassis that is around about the midpoint between the front and rear wheels. That way you don't twist the car by just jacking up a corner, which resulted in cracked windshields in early cars. It also lets you do 2 wheels at a time.
If you can slide a jack far enough under the car in the front middle to get to the steel cross beam, you can jack up the entire front of the car as well. You need to clear all the fibreglass and raise the car from the cross beam only. Removing the inner bonnet will help you locate the jack properly, until you get the hang of it.
hope this helps
I have a diagram of the Cerb chassis which TVR faxed me to show me where the front and rear jacking points are.
A picture is worth a thousand words so probably best if I scan it in and stick it on the web somewhere. Might not be able to do it until next week though.
In the meantime, try following the chassis tube under the door (flush with the sill) until it stops at the front and meets two other tubes - one at almost a right angle to it and the other at 45 degrees. Thats where I was told to jack the front.
Only needed to do the back so far so haven't tried this yet.....
Phil.
A picture is worth a thousand words so probably best if I scan it in and stick it on the web somewhere. Might not be able to do it until next week though.
In the meantime, try following the chassis tube under the door (flush with the sill) until it stops at the front and meets two other tubes - one at almost a right angle to it and the other at 45 degrees. Thats where I was told to jack the front.
Only needed to do the back so far so haven't tried this yet.....
Phil.
That's odd - I don't actually put my axle stands where TVR recommend - I put 'em on the square-section parts of the chassis nearer the centre line of the car. There's something about those tubular bits which makes me think that they might buckle. But I guess TVR know best where the strongest bits are ..
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