Jacking up a Cerbie
Discussion
Can anyone tell me the best way to lift up a Cerbera so that I can safely work underneath in my drive? I've no idea where the best jacking points are, whether there are any no-no's I should be aware of and so on. Presumably a trolley jack and axle stands would do the trick - or is there a better way?
Need to get to the diff this time to look at the speed transducer thingy but any general advice would be helpful.
Seriously thought about bidding for a two post ramp/jack that was on ebay for 160 quid a few weeks ago but that was probably overkill (and I don't have 3 phase power supply!).
Phil.
Need to get to the diff this time to look at the speed transducer thingy but any general advice would be helpful.
Seriously thought about bidding for a two post ramp/jack that was on ebay for 160 quid a few weeks ago but that was probably overkill (and I don't have 3 phase power supply!).
Phil.
Similar chassis to Chimaera's (mine), so here's what I do - I'll be watching for any better ideas because it's a pain. I have ramps, but they are far too steep and the bodywork would catch. Also, does anyone know of cheap hydraulic jacks that have low enough height to roll under the car?
I start using a scissor jack at one of front corners (between side rails and thicker cross-member) to lift it 2" or so without tyres leaving ground contact, then jack the front up with the hydraulic jack under the middle of this thick cross member. Pop it onto axle stands positioned under the side rails - avoiding wires runs and other fittings, especially near where you're working doesn't leave too many options.
On my Chimaera this just gives enough clearance to get the hydraulic jack under the side of the car in front of the rear wheels and onto the side rail. Lift it and drop onto axle stands positioned under the side rails in the region between front and rear trailing arm pivot points - slide them under from behind the car.
This gets the car onto four axle stands. Unless it's on four, it's not easy to get under between the front & rear wheels. For getting to the diff, you'll only need to jack up the rear, you'll probably have to get a scissor jack under the side rail on one side, to get 2-3" more height, then roll the hydraulic jack under the other side, before using the axle stands.
I use a few strips of duck tape on top of my axle stands & 1/2" plywood on my jack to avoid chipping the chalk (sorry plastic) coating on the chassis.
Hope this helps
Andy
I start using a scissor jack at one of front corners (between side rails and thicker cross-member) to lift it 2" or so without tyres leaving ground contact, then jack the front up with the hydraulic jack under the middle of this thick cross member. Pop it onto axle stands positioned under the side rails - avoiding wires runs and other fittings, especially near where you're working doesn't leave too many options.
On my Chimaera this just gives enough clearance to get the hydraulic jack under the side of the car in front of the rear wheels and onto the side rail. Lift it and drop onto axle stands positioned under the side rails in the region between front and rear trailing arm pivot points - slide them under from behind the car.
This gets the car onto four axle stands. Unless it's on four, it's not easy to get under between the front & rear wheels. For getting to the diff, you'll only need to jack up the rear, you'll probably have to get a scissor jack under the side rail on one side, to get 2-3" more height, then roll the hydraulic jack under the other side, before using the axle stands.
I use a few strips of duck tape on top of my axle stands & 1/2" plywood on my jack to avoid chipping the chalk (sorry plastic) coating on the chassis.
Hope this helps
Andy
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