Door slamming

[gadget9]

I have a problem with the drivers door on my cerbera, it needs constant slamming to shut properly.
Castle told me to rectify the problem some bodywork alterations would be needed to move the door rubbers a few mm into the car so to reduce the tention against the shut door. Has anyone got any less drastic ideas to cure the problem?

[booksta]

A couple of hinge spacers, top and bottom will probably do the trick.
Just make sure to align the door up afterwards so it doesnt catch the body.

[gadget9]

Thanks booksta i dont think i had better do that while its under warrenty but i will ask the dealers if they could do it for me

[simond001]

Gadget,

Its a couple of allen screws on the car. This loosens the lack, and allows you to set the lock at the correct position.

If the car in new new, this should have been checked at PDI, as there is no way you should be slamming a fibreglass door!

[gadget9]

simond i dont know what to do now as this was supposedly looked at during the 1000 mile service and i was told it was pretty much the norm but because i wanted it done the fitter said that it was a body shop job as the chassis seam that holds the door rubber needed to be ground down and reformed further into the body to allow more clearance and achieve easier closing so after loosing the car for five days by this time already i said i would wait until the next service
Was this a bad idea?

[simond001]

Gadget,

Why not ring an independant (Joospeed is my preferred). He will give an unbiased opinion, and as he sems to live, breathe (and probably eat) Cerbs he can gave an informed opinion. Seems like a lot of fuss from the dealer for something which should take no time at all.

If you cant find Julian, he is probably hiding under someones car!

[joospeed]

hi there .. it's certainly not uncommon for this to happen with the doors .. the best way is indeed to move the lip that the dorr seal attaches to, but you also achieve good results by moving the inner door panel further outwards (as long as it then doesn't drag on the window and slow it down) or by spacing out the door hinges and adjusting the rear latch, but then you have a door that will stand proud of the bodywork. Whichever route is chosen you've got at least 3 hours of labour if not more and then there's no real guarantee it'll be perfect. In the meantime try not to slam the door as such, but try the technique of shutting the door firmly keeping your hand on the door until it is fully shut, ie don't shut the door by pushing it and allowing it's momentum to get it to shut, physically close it onto it's latch all the way by hand if you see what I mean.

[gadget9]

Thanks Julian, I do understand what you mean and this is definately better than slamming as it shuts everytime instead of bouncing off the latch and needing repeated attempts. Now that it is easier like this i will leave the lip removal untill the 6000 mile service.
Julian one more question, when i picked the car up it was explained to me that shutting the boot should be done by closing it gently then pushing down till it latches but the service manager slamed it shut which is the correct method so as not to damage that setup? with the elise it was a case of gentle preasure in the right place or the aluminium boot lid would be damaged (dented)but with fibreglass im not sure which would be best?

[joospeed]

as a rule I never let any tvr panel slam shut .. firm and constant pressure is the way to go methinx.

[gazzab]

The boot lid thing is easy. Never slam it shut. Push it down to the latch, then rest your hand on top and push it down until it click shut.
Slamming it will damage the latch and / or the fiberglass.

[gadget9]

Thanks gazzab,thanks again julian

>> Edited by gadget9 on Wednesday 27th November 08:13