Do Tracks and Cerbera's mix well ?
Discussion
Yup - no problems.
It's all in the title really. Will a Cerbera stand up to fairly regular track use/abuse ? If not what mods will help it (i assume a nitrox suspension upgrade would be a good start).Brakes/clutch up to it ? Will mpg sufferCome on chaps push me over the edge...
Standard Cerbera will be fine, but probably your first consideration should be a suspension upgrade. 
Yes.
1st on list is decent brake pads and fluid, then dampers [avos OK if you're on a budget], then springs. Car will run fine without any suspension mods, I did quite a few track days on the standard kit, but the uprated stuff is miles better. I have found that track days destroy disks, but others seem not to have the same problem. Be prepared for replacement disks sooner rather than later though if you are going out on track days. Miles per gallon? Dunno. Fill it up in the morning, fill it up again at lunch time, then struggle to a petrol station running on fumes at the end of the day
. Estimate 2 tankfulls for a full day on track with an open pit lane, less if the day runs in sessions, less for a half day etc.
WB
1st on list is decent brake pads and fluid, then dampers [avos OK if you're on a budget], then springs. Car will run fine without any suspension mods, I did quite a few track days on the standard kit, but the uprated stuff is miles better. I have found that track days destroy disks, but others seem not to have the same problem. Be prepared for replacement disks sooner rather than later though if you are going out on track days. Miles per gallon? Dunno. Fill it up in the morning, fill it up again at lunch time, then struggle to a petrol station running on fumes at the end of the day
. Estimate 2 tankfulls for a full day on track with an open pit lane, less if the day runs in sessions, less for a half day etc. WB
You start with a full roll cage fitted as standard, and if its like mine, monster AP calipers and cross-drilled rotors.
759btg said: thanks jeremy thats an encouraging start, i must say i'm suprised (but pleased) there are no common mods for track cars. my e30 BMW cost 2 times more to track prep than it did to buy
I forgot to mention, mine is a standard 4.5 2001LW spec. (don't know if the brakes were an option, but they're factory fitted).
I think the answer to that is depends on how good you are? If you are a genuinely quick driver (and there are very few at all the track days I've been to) exploiting the car to the full, then in my humble opinion (for what its worth)- you'll break it pretty quickly. The weak spots are
Front brakes warping
Gearbox bearings breaking up
Camshaft lobe wear
Cam tensioner breaking (bad news because the cams can jump out of time)
Rapid clutch wear
Radiator splits
All of the above are known potential problems and those owners I am personally aware of who can truly give it some stick have had a combination of the above.
But what the hell, if you are happy to shead a set of tyres in a session (I did - nearly new SO2's in 48 laps of the full Silverstone GP circit) go and have fun. It's only money
Regards
John
Front brakes warping
Gearbox bearings breaking up
Camshaft lobe wear
Cam tensioner breaking (bad news because the cams can jump out of time)
Rapid clutch wear
Radiator splits
All of the above are known potential problems and those owners I am personally aware of who can truly give it some stick have had a combination of the above.
But what the hell, if you are happy to shead a set of tyres in a session (I did - nearly new SO2's in 48 laps of the full Silverstone GP circit) go and have fun. It's only money
Regards
John
In the 1st photo is that you with your indicator on, moving over Jeremy?? Surely not
I'm off to look at similar machines this weekend, although not ooking to buy until next March probably - that's when Mrs Smifffy and my contracts are up for next renewal.
Decided 1) I'd enjoy the test drives and 2) everyone always says drive alot before you buy.
So I'm starting now.
I'm off to look at similar machines this weekend, although not ooking to buy until next March probably - that's when Mrs Smifffy and my contracts are up for next renewal.
Decided 1) I'd enjoy the test drives and 2) everyone always says drive alot before you buy.
So I'm starting now.
>> You start with a full roll cage fitted as standard, and if its like mine, monster AP calipers and cross-drilled rotors.
AP calipers are standard. Drilled disks standard on 4.5 too. But unless you put some better-than-standard pads on, I'd guess they won't hold up too well on track. Also, the standard 4.2 and 4.5 disks do have a well deserved reputation for warping.
WB
AP calipers are standard. Drilled disks standard on 4.5 too. But unless you put some better-than-standard pads on, I'd guess they won't hold up too well on track. Also, the standard 4.2 and 4.5 disks do have a well deserved reputation for warping.
WB
>>Front brakes warping
- been there...too often
>>Gearbox bearings breaking up
- not yet
>>Camshaft lobe wear
- done that
>>Cam tensioner breaking
- not yet
>>Rapid clutch wear
- no, but I treat the middle pedal gently
>>Radiator splits
- got that tee shirt too
Toyos do hold up better then Bridgestones, at the expense of some grip in the wet.
I really love the Cerbera on track, it performs really well and has eaten Tuscan Ss, 355s, Scoobys and all sorts in its time, but be-Jesus it's expensive. Now the proud owner of a mega-blade for track day use. Seriously, the costs of regularly running a Cerbera on track days is frightening. I've found the car has held up really well all told, but disks at £200 a throw every couple of track days, pads at £80, tyres every couple of sessions, a couple of tanks of petrol and more frequent servicing...my wallet couldn't handle it
If you plan to do regular track days in the Cerbera, do the maths on buying another car [caterfield etc], and you might find it an attractive alternative.
WB
>> Edited by williamball on Thursday 21st November 18:05
>> Edited by williamball on Thursday 21st November 18:06
- been there...too often
>>Gearbox bearings breaking up
- not yet
>>Camshaft lobe wear
- done that
>>Cam tensioner breaking
- not yet
>>Rapid clutch wear
- no, but I treat the middle pedal gently
>>Radiator splits
- got that tee shirt too
Toyos do hold up better then Bridgestones, at the expense of some grip in the wet.
I really love the Cerbera on track, it performs really well and has eaten Tuscan Ss, 355s, Scoobys and all sorts in its time, but be-Jesus it's expensive. Now the proud owner of a mega-blade for track day use. Seriously, the costs of regularly running a Cerbera on track days is frightening. I've found the car has held up really well all told, but disks at £200 a throw every couple of track days, pads at £80, tyres every couple of sessions, a couple of tanks of petrol and more frequent servicing...my wallet couldn't handle it
If you plan to do regular track days in the Cerbera, do the maths on buying another car [caterfield etc], and you might find it an attractive alternative. WB
>> Edited by williamball on Thursday 21st November 18:05
>> Edited by williamball on Thursday 21st November 18:06
cerbie is an excellent track day toy, relatively poor grip and loads of power .. fantastic
the SP6 cerbie is the best of the lot, you can slide that around at relatively low speeds on those appaulling goodyear eagle tyres all day long .. I'm sure a talented driver could hold one long continuous power slide for a whole lap on a tight twisty circuit.
If you want to go Ultima chasing like me and Danny l-t did at donington then you'll need a few mods to make that happen : the current NitroN dampers are great, go for good AP front discs and track pads, plus another 50 bhp comes in handy too
on tyres stay away from Bridgestones .. they cost the earth, wear out in no time. go for the Toyos, same grip, half the price and last for ever, top tyre.
joolz
the SP6 cerbie is the best of the lot, you can slide that around at relatively low speeds on those appaulling goodyear eagle tyres all day long .. I'm sure a talented driver could hold one long continuous power slide for a whole lap on a tight twisty circuit.
If you want to go Ultima chasing like me and Danny l-t did at donington then you'll need a few mods to make that happen : the current NitroN dampers are great, go for good AP front discs and track pads, plus another 50 bhp comes in handy too
on tyres stay away from Bridgestones .. they cost the earth, wear out in no time. go for the Toyos, same grip, half the price and last for ever, top tyre.
joolz
A note of caution when comparing all of these responses.
TVRs tend to get better the longer they are in production. Some of the problems that John and William have had may be improved or resolved in later models.
Make sure you compare the experiences with the age of car you are considering, and apply the famous rule of buying the latest one you can afford.
Oh, and the final words of advice:
GET ONE!
TVRs tend to get better the longer they are in production. Some of the problems that John and William have had may be improved or resolved in later models.
Make sure you compare the experiences with the age of car you are considering, and apply the famous rule of buying the latest one you can afford.
Oh, and the final words of advice:
GET ONE! WOW what a response thanks guys.
william, i was joking about mpg, but will research disks thx
johnmc, it sounds like YOU are quite quick. if the silverstone day you did was the day after the F1 i was driving the yellow SRS superlight right behind you (the slicks helped a bit ! im not suprised you need new tyres, was the throttle stuck open ? ) but it's my first year of track driving so no i'm not nearly good enough to exploit a cerby, but like you say its only money. Presumably gearbox breaking up, cam tensioner, rad splits etc... can all be covered under RAC or Warranty Holding warrantys no ? it just broke gov
william, yeah ive been finding out how expensive trackdays are. problem with caterfield (or xtr2/radical) is i think you really need another car, and you'd probably want to tow if you went any real distance (like to the nurburgring). i live in central london and ive only got 2 garages so kinda rules it out.
joospeed, as in the company ?, sp6 eh ? but i just lurve that v8 noise (and i think it would be fun to do 200 one day)
Sold to the man with the nervous bank manager..
william, i was joking about mpg
, but will research disks thx johnmc, it sounds like YOU are quite quick. if the silverstone day you did was the day after the F1 i was driving the yellow SRS superlight right behind you (the slicks helped a bit !
im not suprised you need new tyres, was the throttle stuck open ? ) but it's my first year of track driving so no i'm not nearly good enough to exploit a cerby, but like you say its only money. Presumably gearbox breaking up, cam tensioner, rad splits etc... can all be covered under RAC or Warranty Holding warrantys no ? it just broke gov william, yeah ive been finding out how expensive trackdays are. problem with caterfield (or xtr2/radical) is i think you really need another car, and you'd probably want to tow if you went any real distance (like to the nurburgring). i live in central london and ive only got 2 garages so kinda rules it out.
joospeed, as in the company ?, sp6 eh ? but i just lurve that v8 noise (and i think it would be fun to do 200 one day)
Sold to the man with the nervous bank manager..
agree with william - cost of running cerbera on track are frightening. i reckon mine used to cost 4-5k a year on mending it, tyres, brake pads, discs... unless you brake something big. my caterham blackbird costs me about £800 a year... but i agree a trailer is a good idea. buying an old 4.2 and give joolz 6k to uprate the bits that break would probably be the best plan if you must have a cerbie. I think the main thing about a track da car is keep the capital costs down, 'cos it WILL wear out quickly...
I am booked in at Donington this coming Thursday for the track day in my 4.5 Cerbera & very much looking forward to it ( papping my pants in case its wet ).
Any tips from you lot on driving this circuit, i did Cadwell a few weeks ago & found it just a bit too twisty for the Cerb, unless i am just u/s behind the wheel. I have got 18" spiders shod with SO3s, what pressure should i go to, previuos owner told me 28 all round......sounds a bit high to me!
Any tips from you lot on driving this circuit, i did Cadwell a few weeks ago & found it just a bit too twisty for the Cerb, unless i am just u/s behind the wheel. I have got 18" spiders shod with SO3s, what pressure should i go to, previuos owner told me 28 all round......sounds a bit high to me!
Check out the reviews. Donnington will suit the Cerbera much better than many of the others - is it the full GP circuit you are using?
cirvy said: I am booked in at Donington....in my 4.5 Cerbera....Any tips from you lot on driving this circuit.
Favourite place to get it wrong is Goddards (especially on the GP circuit); make sure you don't turn in too early, and don't get on the power on exit too early either - get it wrong and its easy to spin sideways into the pit wall.
Most of all, enjoy it! Build up speed gradually during the day, and get instruction if possible early in the day (or take out someone that knows the circuit). You will find that it's a fantastic experience with the power of the Cerbera.
>> what pressure should i go to, previuos owner told me 28 all round......sounds a bit high to me!
dont know about cerbie specifics but bear in mind that as the tyres warm up the pressure increases. its the 'hot' pressure you wanna get right, which usually means letting air out after a few fast laps. remember to repressure to drive home
dont know about cerbie specifics but bear in mind that as the tyres warm up the pressure increases. its the 'hot' pressure you wanna get right, which usually means letting air out after a few fast laps. remember to repressure to drive home
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