Reinforced fifth gear set & lock system project

[Andrea7]

Hi all....
It's been a while since I wrote the last time.
Unfortunately, as some of you mentioned, after breaking the fifth gear set and replaced it, here we are again: the new seeger has come loose, and fifth gear set has gone again.
This is driving me crazy.
I'd like to approach the problem differently this time: I want to design a valid alternative locking system (a closed ones) without having to machine the shaft and therefore without having to open the gearbox.
Furthermore, since I have to change the gear set again, I'd like to have the reinforced "Sebring" ones because they're more robust and because teeth angle is less so the push less outward.
Having to design and produce everything from scratch, I was wondering if any of you might be interested in one or both cause everything costs less if made in small batches rather than one-offs.
Let me know.....(and remember that I'm writing from Italy.....)

Edited by Andrea7 on Wednesday 15th October 10:59

[Andrea7]

None interested?

[Modrich]

Hi Andrea, nice CAD skills and great solution to the problem. I've been reading your other thread detailing your 5th gear issues and trying to understand everything. I will at some point have to remove my Tuscan gearbox to fit a minor oil leak, either from slave cylinder or rear main seal. I have a couple of questions:

Does the lock system system fit on the outside of the gearbox, onto the output shaft?

If so, it's worth fitting to any gearbox that has been removed, as a preventative measure, yes?

It looks like drilling and threading for the 4 locking collar cap screws is required?

What are the costs for the Gear set and lock system separately?

Thanks for sharing your hard work and design.

[Adrian@]

I posted this on a the other (same thread), but it must of been deleted.

I have the John Reid mod on our Tamora (after 5th slid off with no damage leaving the circlip floating on the mainshaft). The gear box had been rebuilt only a few thousand miles previously.
We have spoken about 27/28 spline versions, with them being GM/Ford versions, of the kits being used, that they might be using the wrong ID/OD circlip on 5th, which leaves the 5th gear circlip not captured and the ability to jump out of it's groove.
I stripped my box to look at why I lost 5th, I do not know what John does, but that it requires machining.
I thought at the time that a side bolted ring collar on the main shaft would do the job of a retro fit (but that getting the 100% correct circlip should do it too, which I could not get!).

A@
I think I need to ask some questions re the correct way around 5th gear goes...from this I am not sure and it is not clear! https://www.facebook.com/groups/805918846860358/po...
In the FB thread there is a picture of the gear the opposite way around to how I thought it went...I have a spare T5 box here that I 'think' I need to pull the end casing off and take a look.

Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 21st October 12:43

[Andrea7]

Adrian@ said:

I posted this on a the other (same thread), but it must of been deleted.

I have the John Reid mod on our Tamora (after 5th slid off with no damage leaving the circlip floating on the mainshaft). The gear box had been rebuilt only a few thousand miles previously.
We have spoken about 27/28 spline versions, with them being GM/Ford versions, of the kits being used, that they might be using the wrong ID/OD circlip on 5th, which leaves the 5th gear circlip not captured and the ability to jump out of it's groove.
I stripped my box to look at why I lost 5th, I do not know what John does, but that it requires machining.
I thought at the time that a side bolted ring collar on the main shaft would do the job of a retro fit (but that getting the 100% correct circlip should do it too, which I could not get!).

A@
I think I need to ask some questions re the correct way around 5th gear goes...from this I am not sure and it is not clear! https://www.facebook.com/groups/805918846860358/po...
In the FB thread there is a picture of the gear the opposite way around to how I thought it went...I have a spare T5 box here that I 'think' I need to pull the end casing off and take a look.

Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 21st October 12:43

Really interesting.
I have to admit that this is a quite convincing theory.
Anyhow I'll proceed with something that gives me more confidence.....

Thank for your contribution

[Andrea7]

Modrich said:

Hi Andrea, nice CAD skills and great solution to the problem. I've been reading your other thread detailing your 5th gear issues and trying to understand everything. I will at some point have to remove my Tuscan gearbox to fit a minor oil leak, either from slave cylinder or rear main seal. I have a couple of questions:

Does the lock system system fit on the outside of the gearbox, onto the output shaft?

-Yes-

If so, it's worth fitting to any gearbox that has been removed, as a preventative measure, yes?

-That's the idea-

It looks like drilling and threading for the 4 locking collar cap screws is required?

-No. I want something that does not required any mods or time consuming job on the gearbox.
I'll explain better how it's work when we are closer to the final product-

What are the costs for the Gear set and lock system separately?

-Still working on this too.
Hope to have some info soon-

Thanks for sharing your hard work and design.

[ukkid35]

A simpler solution is to use the Sebring gearset, and swapping the mainshaft and propshaft yoke for the 28 spline Ford mainshaft 1352-671-035

[Flatplane8]

ukkid35 said:

A simpler solution is to use the Sebring gearset, and swapping the mainshaft and propshaft yoke for the 28 spline Ford mainshaft 1352-671-035

Do you know if anyone has done this to a TVR T5 gearbox?

[1994griff500]

I thought about putting a complete Ford 10 spline output in my BW T5, but in the end decided to change the whole box for a brand new heavy duty Mustang unit. No more gearbox in/out jobs now, I'm hoping.

[Andrea7]

ukkid35 said:

A simpler solution is to use the Sebring gearset, and swapping the mainshaft and propshaft yoke for the 28 spline Ford mainshaft 1352-671-035

Don't think so: to change the main shaft you have to open the gearbox and, when I asked prices of parts for the conversion, I understood that it's easier and cheaper to buy a reconditioned 28 spline T5 gearbox.

To do my Sebring 27 spline fifth set I'll spend less than what I spent last time for a standard 27 spline fifth gear set.

Anyway the key is the lock system.

Still working on it...

[ukkid35]

Andrea7 said:

To do my Sebring 27 spline fifth set I'll spend less than what I spent last time for a standard 27 spline fifth gear set.

I couldn't find a Sebring 27 spline, please do share where you have found them

[Andrea7]

ukkid35 said:

Andrea7 said:

To do my Sebring 27 spline fifth set I'll spend less than what I spent last time for a standard 27 spline fifth gear set.

I couldn't find a Sebring 27 spline, please do share where you have found them

There isn't.
I'm working on this right now.
I bought a standard sebring gearset fifth kit from America so I can use the counter gear.
They are REALLY cheap: 150€ including duties and shipping.
Now I have to re done the mainshaft gear with the right internal 27 splines: there is a shop in Rome which do only gears since 1900.
They asked me 400 to do one mainshaft gear.
So I'll spend 550 .
Last time I bought a fifth gear standard gearset from UK I spent 650£ plus duties and shipping......
And, obviously, price could be lower if you produce a small batch.
As soon as everything is done, I'll start to do some test about the lock system

Edited by Andrea7 on Wednesday 12th November 08:27

Edited by Andrea7 on Wednesday 12th November 08:29