98 4.5 Oil Cooler Leak Advice

[RobTuscS]

Hi all, I have seen many posts about the oil coolers and pipe work etc. But some are varied due to the engine, and the year of production. So I was hoping for some clarity and what upgrades I can fit while I am in doing this (from what I can see) pig of a job. Mine has the lower F1 panel (If that makes any difference)

What I have read is that you can disconnect the hoses from the filter side first, take off the cover in the inner wheel well, and take out the AC canister that is attached to it, this will provide access to the cooler itself. This then unbolts and is pulled through with the disconnected hoses still attached?

As for the parts, does anyone have the exact dimensions of the 19 row cooler as I am looking at aftermarket "upgraded" options and where I should get the hoses from. Ideally looking at braided thank you.

[mrniceguy351]

If there is any degree of corrosion you will probably end up taking the radiator and aircon condenser out. The lines to my cooler sheared off when I tried to remove them from the cooler via the wheel well.

[RobTuscS]

Thanks, I heard this can be an issue, I have managed to take out all the fibre glass bits and bobs that hold the rad in along with the bolts fixing it to the front of the car. Tomorrow I will be looking at getting the hoses off the rad, and I am praying it isn't corroded. I think the cooler has had a wack from a stone or something as there is no oil on the hoses. The previous owner did a good job by the look of it, using quality parts as there is not even surface corrosion on anything so I am praying! 😂 Thanks for your comment.

[ridds]

The cooler and its location is a tt.

Original is a Serek Speed 19 Row.

Pretty sure I replaced mine with this... It was many years ago though.



The taper sealing surfaces on the pipes / cooler are usually a bit iffy. To get enough sealing clamp load on mine I needed t apply a fair bit of torque.

The issue is access to the fittings on the cooler when mounted. You really need a spanner that fits the unions on the cooler well to tighten properly.

The cooler is massively over-sized for road use. Search out my post on the Oil Thermostat from a few years back.Lots of info in there.

[ukkid35]

Some photos here that might help

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=6&...

[Supateg]

With the hose’s being hydraulic spec they are not flexible which adds to fiddly nature of the job.

Find your local hydraulic supplier will be the most cost effective method of replacement. Just take the old pipes down and they will use them as templates.

[ukkid35]

Supateg said:

With the hose’s being hydraulic spec they are not flexible which adds to fiddly nature of the job.

I doubt you could easily replace the revised high pressure line that routes around the back of the sump, can't see how you could get that radius in a Pirtek 350 Bar hose

[RobTuscS]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I have got the b***ard out and the connectors freed off easily. It appears that the cooler is saturated pointing to a failure of the cooler than the hoses as these seemed to be clean. The previous owner before me did the job 9 years ago and replaced hoses and the cooler and they seem to be good quality.

I am going to replace the cooler for now and pray this sorts the problem. I will have a look at you suggestions as well.

Thank you!

[Supateg]

ukkid35 said:

I doubt you could easily replace the revised high pressure line that routes around the back of the sump, can't see how you could get that radius in a Pirtek 350 Bar hose

Hi Paul is that the steel extension bit?

The hose company I used reused the steel radius and re crimped it onto new hose.

[ridds]

You don't need 350 Bar rated hose.

It may seem some dynamic short duration spikes of 20 Bar but that's it.

I used a local Hydraulic company to put a fitting on the Outlet Pipe. They didn't really want to do it as any non-standard fitting attachment leaves them exposed in the event of a failure. Just schmooz them a little.

Also, take care on the size of fitting and it's location. Space is tight around that pipe.

[ukkid35]

ridds said:

You don't need 350 Bar rated hose.

I did query it at the time, but Pirtek didn't offer me any other option

It's been on the car for ten years now, so can't complain

[ridds]

ukkid35 said:

ridds said:

You don't need 350 Bar rated hose.

I did query it at the time, but Pirtek didn't offer me any other option

It's been on the car for ten years now, so can't complain

They may not have had anything closer rated to be fair. Better safe than sorry!