2nd fan (offside) doesnt work
Discussion
aircon-car: i have never seen my 2nd fan running therefore i made a short test by unplugging the temperatue sender (the one near thermostat underneath the F1 panel): only the nearside (left one when viewed from cabin) fan is running.
as i understand, with this test both fans should run,correct?
i checked the relais 1 and 7 -->ok
i swapped both relais--> fault remains
i measured the wiring from fusebox to enginebay/fans -->ok
i checked the fuses 1 and 3 -> ok
i swapped the fuses and i even changed the fuses --> problem remains...so old fuses back
i checked theoffside fan itselves by unplugging it and connecting it to 12V-- > running
the interesting thing is that also my horn doesnt work...and according to the manual : Horn and 2nd fan are sharing the same Fuse no. 3...but the fuse is ok.
when i push the horn button, the corresponding relais on the fuse-board is clicking, but the horn remains quiet
as i understand, with this test both fans should run,correct?
i checked the relais 1 and 7 -->ok
i swapped both relais--> fault remains
i measured the wiring from fusebox to enginebay/fans -->ok
i checked the fuses 1 and 3 -> ok
i swapped the fuses and i even changed the fuses --> problem remains...so old fuses back
i checked theoffside fan itselves by unplugging it and connecting it to 12V-- > running
the interesting thing is that also my horn doesnt work...and according to the manual : Horn and 2nd fan are sharing the same Fuse no. 3...but the fuse is ok.
when i push the horn button, the corresponding relais on the fuse-board is clicking, but the horn remains quiet
Hello,
Yes, the digital water temperature sensor is screwed into the metal water pipe, located under the F1 panel and in close proximity to the analogue sensor and the thermostat, it is simply disconnected by pressing the retaining clip on the connector and pulling up.
When the ECU detects a fault with the water temperature sensor, (completely open circuit or closed circuit), it will substitute a value of 95 degrees. The cooling fans are controlled by this reading and they are turned on at 92 degrees and off at 88 degrees. So under fault conditions, the cooling fans are switched on.
However... I've never tested my fans like this as this will register a 'fault' in the ECU and the MIL light will be illuminated. You may have to connect the ECU software to clear the fault. I'm not sure if just reconnecting the sensor will reset (turn off) the MIL light, you'll find out.
If I understand correctly, you have tested the continuity (connection) between the relay and the fans, and you can prove that this is OK. You also swapped the relays 1 and 7 and you swapped over fuses 1 and 3 and the situation didn't change, just one fan operated.
Can you confirm if I've got this right and can you confirm your fusebox, relays and fuses are as the picture attached?
I've very suspicious that the horns and fan 2 don't work together, as these are both fused from fuse 3 although fan 2 uses relay 7 and the horns use relay 6.
If you can prove that fuse 3 is good and correctly fitted, and that there is a supply voltage to relay 7, and that you have continuity between the 'switch circuit' of the relay and the fan, the issue might me that the signal/trigger from the ECU is not reaching the relay. Have a careful close look at the contacts and be convinced that the relay and fuse is making a solid connection.
The next step would be to remove the relay and prove that you have a supply voltage and a trigger voltage from the ECU to switch the relay. First things first... can you just check the picture attached and confirm if I've understood things correctly?
Best regards
Tony.
Yes, the digital water temperature sensor is screwed into the metal water pipe, located under the F1 panel and in close proximity to the analogue sensor and the thermostat, it is simply disconnected by pressing the retaining clip on the connector and pulling up.
When the ECU detects a fault with the water temperature sensor, (completely open circuit or closed circuit), it will substitute a value of 95 degrees. The cooling fans are controlled by this reading and they are turned on at 92 degrees and off at 88 degrees. So under fault conditions, the cooling fans are switched on.
However... I've never tested my fans like this as this will register a 'fault' in the ECU and the MIL light will be illuminated. You may have to connect the ECU software to clear the fault. I'm not sure if just reconnecting the sensor will reset (turn off) the MIL light, you'll find out.
If I understand correctly, you have tested the continuity (connection) between the relay and the fans, and you can prove that this is OK. You also swapped the relays 1 and 7 and you swapped over fuses 1 and 3 and the situation didn't change, just one fan operated.
Can you confirm if I've got this right and can you confirm your fusebox, relays and fuses are as the picture attached?
I've very suspicious that the horns and fan 2 don't work together, as these are both fused from fuse 3 although fan 2 uses relay 7 and the horns use relay 6.
If you can prove that fuse 3 is good and correctly fitted, and that there is a supply voltage to relay 7, and that you have continuity between the 'switch circuit' of the relay and the fan, the issue might me that the signal/trigger from the ECU is not reaching the relay. Have a careful close look at the contacts and be convinced that the relay and fuse is making a solid connection.
The next step would be to remove the relay and prove that you have a supply voltage and a trigger voltage from the ECU to switch the relay. First things first... can you just check the picture attached and confirm if I've understood things correctly?
Best regards
Tony.
Dear Tony...yes...you completely understood the situation correctly . Fuses and Relais are all ok, their contacts etc.
the only thing i havent tested so far is the wire from the ECU to Relais 7. (but i doubt that there will be an interruption, as the car was always driven / stored in a dry environment, the wiring loom is totally original....all connectors i have opend until today were spot-on...no corrosion, no dodgy contacts....but you never know)
what i also can do is to trigger relais 7 "manually" with 12V (ordo i need to trigger the ground?), just to be double-safe that the relais, wiring etc is ok.
what i can confirm is:
unplugging the temp.sensor and swtiching ON the ignition will not constantly Trigger the MIL light.
the above described test for the fans was done based on info from other Pistonheads threads.
can anybody confirm that with this test BOTH fans should get triggeed?
the only thing i havent tested so far is the wire from the ECU to Relais 7. (but i doubt that there will be an interruption, as the car was always driven / stored in a dry environment, the wiring loom is totally original....all connectors i have opend until today were spot-on...no corrosion, no dodgy contacts....but you never know)
what i also can do is to trigger relais 7 "manually" with 12V (ordo i need to trigger the ground?), just to be double-safe that the relais, wiring etc is ok.
what i can confirm is:
unplugging the temp.sensor and swtiching ON the ignition will not constantly Trigger the MIL light.
the above described test for the fans was done based on info from other Pistonheads threads.
can anybody confirm that with this test BOTH fans should get triggeed?
Edited by LLantrisant on Monday 3rd July 09:07
Hello,
Yes, I can confirm that deliberately triggering a fault by unplugging the water temperature sensor will cause 'both' the fans to be switched on. This action does 'not' cause the MIL light to stay on but it does trigger a Water Temp Fault in the ECU log that can be cleared by 'resetting' the fault codes from the ECU programs main menu.
I'll take another look at the wiring diagrams (that have some mistakes in them by the way) and see if there is anything else I can suggest to help fault find this issue. I have a couple of ideas but I'll test this on my car first, I'll post again as soon as I can.
I hope this is helpful,
Best regards
Tony.
Yes, I can confirm that deliberately triggering a fault by unplugging the water temperature sensor will cause 'both' the fans to be switched on. This action does 'not' cause the MIL light to stay on but it does trigger a Water Temp Fault in the ECU log that can be cleared by 'resetting' the fault codes from the ECU programs main menu.
I'll take another look at the wiring diagrams (that have some mistakes in them by the way) and see if there is anything else I can suggest to help fault find this issue. I have a couple of ideas but I'll test this on my car first, I'll post again as soon as I can.
I hope this is helpful,
Best regards
Tony.
Having an incorrect signal from the ECU temp sensor won't allow the fans to work though. TVR didn't put that logic in AFAIK.
Dirt, corrosion etc can cause this.
The second fan should come on when the ECU temp hits a higher value than trigger 1.
Or, if the AC is activated it should come on then. Not sure if it cycles with the AC clutch or is on permanently but it should work in one of these configurations.
Also, a MIL on a Cerbera isn't anything like a MIL on a normal car. All it does is flag something that the ECU isn't overly happy with, it doesn't have any of the onboard monitoring of modern cars.
Dirt, corrosion etc can cause this.
The second fan should come on when the ECU temp hits a higher value than trigger 1.
Or, if the AC is activated it should come on then. Not sure if it cycles with the AC clutch or is on permanently but it should work in one of these configurations.
Also, a MIL on a Cerbera isn't anything like a MIL on a normal car. All it does is flag something that the ECU isn't overly happy with, it doesn't have any of the onboard monitoring of modern cars.
Hello Ridds,
That's not right, I did this to provide it on a Cerbera Mk1 with A/C.
Disconnecting the water temperature sensor, will register a fault that can be seen in the MBE ECU software, and this fault will cause 'both' the radiator fans to be switched on all the time, when the engine is running.
Reconnecting the water temperature sensor, so it now reads correctly again, will cause the ECU to act as normal but by disconnecting and reconnecting the water temperature sensor will still leave a fault code in the log on the ECU which is easily cleared.
From my earlier post... "When the ECU detects a fault with the water temperature sensor, (completely open circuit or closed circuit), it will substitute a value of 95 degrees. The cooling fans are controlled by this reading and they are turned on at 92 degrees and off at 88 degrees. So under fault conditions, the cooling fans are switched on."
Best regards
Tony.
That's not right, I did this to provide it on a Cerbera Mk1 with A/C.
Disconnecting the water temperature sensor, will register a fault that can be seen in the MBE ECU software, and this fault will cause 'both' the radiator fans to be switched on all the time, when the engine is running.
Reconnecting the water temperature sensor, so it now reads correctly again, will cause the ECU to act as normal but by disconnecting and reconnecting the water temperature sensor will still leave a fault code in the log on the ECU which is easily cleared.
From my earlier post... "When the ECU detects a fault with the water temperature sensor, (completely open circuit or closed circuit), it will substitute a value of 95 degrees. The cooling fans are controlled by this reading and they are turned on at 92 degrees and off at 88 degrees. So under fault conditions, the cooling fans are switched on."
Best regards
Tony.
Hello LLantrisant,
Can you make up a small jumper cable with two spade connectors, like the attached, or if you have a spare reply, you can open it carefully and solder a wire across pins 30 and 87 so the relay is 'aways on'.
Now you can either user the jumper cable (or the always on relay) to test and prove the supply and connectivity to fan 2.
I'll talk about this in my next post.
Best regards
Tony.
Can you make up a small jumper cable with two spade connectors, like the attached, or if you have a spare reply, you can open it carefully and solder a wire across pins 30 and 87 so the relay is 'aways on'.
Now you can either user the jumper cable (or the always on relay) to test and prove the supply and connectivity to fan 2.
I'll talk about this in my next post.
Best regards
Tony.
Hello again LLantrisant,
Take a look at the attached picture...
Reply 7 for fan 2 is a very simple (high load) switch. If you look at the bottom of the relay (pins up) you'll see that the pins are numbered.
Pin 30 - is supplied with +12v all the time, even with the ignition off
Pin 87 - connects to Pin 30 when the relay is activated, to provide the fan with 12v+
Pin 86 - is supplied with 12v+ with the ignition on, immobiliser off to switch (activate the relay)
Pin 85 - is switched 0v (negative) by the ECU
So you can remove relay 7 and simply test it by applying 12v to Pin 86 on the relay and 0v (negative) to Pin 85 on the relay. The relay will click and make a connection between Pin 30 and Pin 87.
Test this with a multimeter on continuity (beep) test. Put the multimeter probes on Pin 30 and 87 and there will be no continuity/connection (no beep). Now activate the relay by applying 12v+ to Pin 86 and 0v (negative) to Pin 85, the relay will click (activate). Now put the multimeter probes on Pin 30 and 87 again (with the relay activated) and it will show a closed circuit and the meeter will beep.
So all that is just testing the relay, which we know isn't your problem but it might be useful for others...
So try this next...
Plug the 'always on' relay (I hope) you made into socket 7 on the fuse board, fan 2 will now run even with the ignition off. If you didn't have a spare to make an 'always on' test relay, plug the test jumper cable (I hope) you made into the socket marked Pin 30 and Pin 87 in the picture. Fan 2 will run constantly even with the ignition off. So this proves that there is a supply and continuity (a connection) between the socket for the relay 7 and fan 2.
If fan 2 doesn't run (with the always on relay fitted or the jumper connected), Check Pin 30 with a multimeter, if it is not 12v+ there is no supply to switch to the fan. Check Pin 86 with a multimeter, if it is not 12v+ (with the ignition on) there is no supply to switch the relay.
Can you let me know how these test go...
Best regards
Tony Haywood
Take a look at the attached picture...
Reply 7 for fan 2 is a very simple (high load) switch. If you look at the bottom of the relay (pins up) you'll see that the pins are numbered.
Pin 30 - is supplied with +12v all the time, even with the ignition off
Pin 87 - connects to Pin 30 when the relay is activated, to provide the fan with 12v+
Pin 86 - is supplied with 12v+ with the ignition on, immobiliser off to switch (activate the relay)
Pin 85 - is switched 0v (negative) by the ECU
So you can remove relay 7 and simply test it by applying 12v to Pin 86 on the relay and 0v (negative) to Pin 85 on the relay. The relay will click and make a connection between Pin 30 and Pin 87.
Test this with a multimeter on continuity (beep) test. Put the multimeter probes on Pin 30 and 87 and there will be no continuity/connection (no beep). Now activate the relay by applying 12v+ to Pin 86 and 0v (negative) to Pin 85, the relay will click (activate). Now put the multimeter probes on Pin 30 and 87 again (with the relay activated) and it will show a closed circuit and the meeter will beep.
So all that is just testing the relay, which we know isn't your problem but it might be useful for others...
So try this next...
Plug the 'always on' relay (I hope) you made into socket 7 on the fuse board, fan 2 will now run even with the ignition off. If you didn't have a spare to make an 'always on' test relay, plug the test jumper cable (I hope) you made into the socket marked Pin 30 and Pin 87 in the picture. Fan 2 will run constantly even with the ignition off. So this proves that there is a supply and continuity (a connection) between the socket for the relay 7 and fan 2.
If fan 2 doesn't run (with the always on relay fitted or the jumper connected), Check Pin 30 with a multimeter, if it is not 12v+ there is no supply to switch to the fan. Check Pin 86 with a multimeter, if it is not 12v+ (with the ignition on) there is no supply to switch the relay.
Can you let me know how these test go...
Best regards
Tony Haywood
Tony69 said:
Hello Ridds,
That's not right, I did this to provide it on a Cerbera Mk1 with A/C.
Disconnecting the water temperature sensor, will register a fault that can be seen in the MBE ECU software, and this fault will cause 'both' the radiator fans to be switched on all the time, when the engine is running.
Reconnecting the water temperature sensor, so it now reads correctly again, will cause the ECU to act as normal but by disconnecting and reconnecting the water temperature sensor will still leave a fault code in the log on the ECU which is easily cleared.
From my earlier post... "When the ECU detects a fault with the water temperature sensor, (completely open circuit or closed circuit), it will substitute a value of 95 degrees. The cooling fans are controlled by this reading and they are turned on at 92 degrees and off at 88 degrees. So under fault conditions, the cooling fans are switched on."
Best regards
Tony.
I didn't mention disconnecting the sensor, I was talking about an incorrect signal.That's not right, I did this to provide it on a Cerbera Mk1 with A/C.
Disconnecting the water temperature sensor, will register a fault that can be seen in the MBE ECU software, and this fault will cause 'both' the radiator fans to be switched on all the time, when the engine is running.
Reconnecting the water temperature sensor, so it now reads correctly again, will cause the ECU to act as normal but by disconnecting and reconnecting the water temperature sensor will still leave a fault code in the log on the ECU which is easily cleared.
From my earlier post... "When the ECU detects a fault with the water temperature sensor, (completely open circuit or closed circuit), it will substitute a value of 95 degrees. The cooling fans are controlled by this reading and they are turned on at 92 degrees and off at 88 degrees. So under fault conditions, the cooling fans are switched on."
Best regards
Tony.
I can assure you mine did exactly as I said. Sensor plugged in and coolant temp clearly above the fan threshold (capillary gauge) and fans were not working. Hence my concern.
Wiggling the connector on the sensor for the ECU caused the fans to cut in and out. So the dodgy connection caused a "low" reading of which there is no logic within the ECU software to detect.
The Offside fan is also the one triggered by the AC which comes on separately from the engine temp thresholds. Hence the 2 ECU outputs.
Picture attached of the test 'jumper wire' connected between Pins 30 and 87, as discussed/detailed in my previous post.
This is for testing and diagnosing supply and connectivity problems for relay 7 fan 2 only, this is 'not' a solution or permanent fix. If you are not confident/experienced, ask an auto electrician to do this test this for you...
Best regards
Tony.
This is for testing and diagnosing supply and connectivity problems for relay 7 fan 2 only, this is 'not' a solution or permanent fix. If you are not confident/experienced, ask an auto electrician to do this test this for you...
Best regards
Tony.
An observation
The start-up current of a fan motor will create arcing between the fusebox and red jump lead terminals when the circuit's completed, the arcing will cause damage to whichever fusebox terminal the jump lead is connected to last
Cut the red jump lead in half and bare back the cut ends to reveal approx 15mm of copper cable. Ensuring that the bare copper ends of the cables can't short circuit to anything, insert the male terminals into the fusebox terminals 30 and 87 as explained above by Tony69
Wearing gloves or by using a clip complete the circuit by connecting the above cables copper conductors together, burnt fingers hurt
i have done my homework:
Pin 30 - is supplied with +12v all the time, even with the ignition off --> checked and i confirm that i have always 12V
Pin 87 - connects to Pin 30 when the relay is activated, to provide the fan with 12v+ --> checked and i confirm that it switches 12v to the fan
Pin 86 - is supplied with 12v+ with the ignition on, immobiliser off to switch (activate the relay) --> checked and i confirm i have 12V, once the IGN is ON
Pin 85 - is switched 0v (negative) by the ECU -->
if i make the test with the "bridge" the fan is running
if i insert the relais back into the socket and connect Pin85 to ground,the relais is switching and Fan works.
i tested, for continuity, the wiring from PIN 85 to the ECU and its ok.
i dont know if this helps: as i have an aircon car, even with aircon ON, the 2nd fan was never running.
Pin 30 - is supplied with +12v all the time, even with the ignition off --> checked and i confirm that i have always 12V
Pin 87 - connects to Pin 30 when the relay is activated, to provide the fan with 12v+ --> checked and i confirm that it switches 12v to the fan
Pin 86 - is supplied with 12v+ with the ignition on, immobiliser off to switch (activate the relay) --> checked and i confirm i have 12V, once the IGN is ON
Pin 85 - is switched 0v (negative) by the ECU -->
if i make the test with the "bridge" the fan is running
if i insert the relais back into the socket and connect Pin85 to ground,the relais is switching and Fan works.
i tested, for continuity, the wiring from PIN 85 to the ECU and its ok.
i dont know if this helps: as i have an aircon car, even with aircon ON, the 2nd fan was never running.
Hello LLantrisant,
That's good news and well done..!!
Can you confirm if you have an original MBE ECU? Can you post a picture with the cover removed please? See attached. I would just like to confirm that you have an original ECU and EPROM and that it hasn't been modified in some way.
I have owned a couple of Cerbera's (4.2 AJP V8 with A/C) and recently rebuilt 1x from a bare shell and I can absolutely confirm that turning the A/C on/off has absolutely noting to do with the operation of fan 1 or fan 2. I can see why people think this, but it is just not true... (assuming we are talking about a factory standard 'unmodified' Cerbera and ECU).
Quote from the original MBE ECU help file "The two fans operate at different temperatures, Fan 1 at 92 Degrees and Fan 2 at 94 Degrees."
I have never seen a Cerbera where operating the A/C activates fan 2. Fan 1 and 2 are switched on/off by the ECU at two different temperatures, regardless of the operation of the A/C. Which we can prove.
Let's make sure you have an original ECU and EPROM with a default (unmodified) program as a next step... then we can check the operation of the ECU and make sure that it is switching the right pin to ground for fan 2. If the ECU is operating correctly and switching the pin to ground, there must be a fault in the signal connection between the ECU pin and Relay 7.
I'll dig out the wiring diagram for the ECU/connector and see if I can find the pin outs for the fans, I think it's ECU Pin 41 for Fan 1 and Pin 6 for Fan 2. These connect to a 19x way multi plug which is where your fault might be. But first things first... I need to 'prove' I've got the ECU pins right first...
See attached for a picture of a default Cerbera MBE ECU with the cover removed.
Best regards and well done for getting this far... :-)
Tony.
That's good news and well done..!!
Can you confirm if you have an original MBE ECU? Can you post a picture with the cover removed please? See attached. I would just like to confirm that you have an original ECU and EPROM and that it hasn't been modified in some way.
I have owned a couple of Cerbera's (4.2 AJP V8 with A/C) and recently rebuilt 1x from a bare shell and I can absolutely confirm that turning the A/C on/off has absolutely noting to do with the operation of fan 1 or fan 2. I can see why people think this, but it is just not true... (assuming we are talking about a factory standard 'unmodified' Cerbera and ECU).
Quote from the original MBE ECU help file "The two fans operate at different temperatures, Fan 1 at 92 Degrees and Fan 2 at 94 Degrees."
I have never seen a Cerbera where operating the A/C activates fan 2. Fan 1 and 2 are switched on/off by the ECU at two different temperatures, regardless of the operation of the A/C. Which we can prove.
Let's make sure you have an original ECU and EPROM with a default (unmodified) program as a next step... then we can check the operation of the ECU and make sure that it is switching the right pin to ground for fan 2. If the ECU is operating correctly and switching the pin to ground, there must be a fault in the signal connection between the ECU pin and Relay 7.
I'll dig out the wiring diagram for the ECU/connector and see if I can find the pin outs for the fans, I think it's ECU Pin 41 for Fan 1 and Pin 6 for Fan 2. These connect to a 19x way multi plug which is where your fault might be. But first things first... I need to 'prove' I've got the ECU pins right first...
See attached for a picture of a default Cerbera MBE ECU with the cover removed.
Best regards and well done for getting this far... :-)
Tony.
Hello Ridds,
The second fan was required to create additional airflow in cars fitted with A/C as these cars have an additional condenser placed in front of the radiator. The condenser is the full width of the radiator and it has quite a fine filament which restricts airflow across the radiator, so the second smaller fan was fitted to counter this.
So 1x fan and a radiator is just about OK with no A/C but you'll need 2x fans to draw enough air through the condenser and the radiator together. The fans are just triggered based on the water temperature.
Best regards
Tony.
The second fan was required to create additional airflow in cars fitted with A/C as these cars have an additional condenser placed in front of the radiator. The condenser is the full width of the radiator and it has quite a fine filament which restricts airflow across the radiator, so the second smaller fan was fitted to counter this.
So 1x fan and a radiator is just about OK with no A/C but you'll need 2x fans to draw enough air through the condenser and the radiator together. The fans are just triggered based on the water temperature.
Best regards
Tony.
i will check my ECU and post pictures soon.
but lets think again in a logic way:
unplugging the temperature sensor should activate BOTH fans. correct?
but just Fan1 is activated.
i checked the relais/fuse circuit as well as the connection from Relais-board to the fans.
so if unplugging the sensor is not resulting in both Fans working there must be a problem with the ECU earthing the related relais?
but lets think again in a logic way:
unplugging the temperature sensor should activate BOTH fans. correct?
but just Fan1 is activated.
i checked the relais/fuse circuit as well as the connection from Relais-board to the fans.
so if unplugging the sensor is not resulting in both Fans working there must be a problem with the ECU earthing the related relais?
Edited by LLantrisant on Sunday 9th July 15:17
Hello LLantrisant,
Yes, if you unplug the water sensor, both fans will operate. This is exactly what I see on my Cerbera.
From the testing you have done, it seems to be that Relay 7 is not being activated. When you activated the relay by hand, the fan worked, is that correct?
So it looks like the ECU is not switching the signal to Relay 7 or is there a fault in this connection?
Can you also confirm if the A/C system is changed (gassed) and working?
Best regards
Tony.
Yes, if you unplug the water sensor, both fans will operate. This is exactly what I see on my Cerbera.
From the testing you have done, it seems to be that Relay 7 is not being activated. When you activated the relay by hand, the fan worked, is that correct?
So it looks like the ECU is not switching the signal to Relay 7 or is there a fault in this connection?
Can you also confirm if the A/C system is changed (gassed) and working?
Best regards
Tony.
Tony69 said:
Hello LLantrisant,
Yes, if you unplug the water sensor, both fans will operate. This is exactly what I see on my Cerbera.
From the testing you have done, it seems to be that Relay 7 is not being activated. When you activated the relay by hand, the fan worked, is that correct?
So it looks like the ECU is not switching the signal to Relay 7 or is there a fault in this connection?
Can you also confirm if the A/C system is changed (gassed) and working?
Best regards
Tony.
When you activated the relay by hand, the fan worked, is that correct? ---> yesYes, if you unplug the water sensor, both fans will operate. This is exactly what I see on my Cerbera.
From the testing you have done, it seems to be that Relay 7 is not being activated. When you activated the relay by hand, the fan worked, is that correct?
So it looks like the ECU is not switching the signal to Relay 7 or is there a fault in this connection?
Can you also confirm if the A/C system is changed (gassed) and working?
Best regards
Tony.
Can you also confirm if the A/C system is changed (gassed) and working? --> not really.....it has not been re-gassed....and during this summer it doesnt really cool....so i pressume the system is empty or the "temperature" control is not working well (or i dont know how to set properly the control knobs....even i own the car almost 2 years, i have not used it until recently....)
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