Door Reed Switch Replacing ??

[N1CERB]

Hi Folks,

First thing... Is the equivalent parts list site down just now? Cant get in there to check out what part I require to order for replacement door reed switches from Maplin??

Now I have done a search but cant seem to find a guide on how to change the reed switches in my doors. I don't even know where they are to be honest? Could someone please help out with a guide on swapping these out at all?

Cheers for now

Dave

[sonnylad]

RS stock number is 455-3744

or from here

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PTC130-30-Comus-Assemtec...

[Tanguero]

N1CERB said:

Hi Folks,

First thing... Is the equivalent parts list site down just now? Cant get in there to check out what part I require to order for replacement door reed switches from Maplin??

Now I have done a search but cant seem to find a guide on how to change the reed switches in my doors. I don't even know where they are to be honest? Could someone please help out with a guide on swapping these out at all?

Cheers for now

Dave

There is an equivalent parts sticky thread at the top of the forum that is the latest information. Details of the correct switch are in there.

If you search in here there have bee many threads detailing changing them, but basically it is as simple as unscrewing the old one and screwing in and connecting the new one. The equivalent parts sticky tells you which pair of wires on the new switch to use.

[N1CERB]

Cheers for links and numbers.

I tried the sticky but the link was not working.

Will do more searches for how to find the darned things!

Cheers...

[N1CERB]

Sticky link still not working

[sonnylad]

Along the bottom of the door you will see a stainless steel square'ish plate, the reed switch is screwed into that plate and secured with a lock nut.

If you remove the whole plate you may be able to replace it if cables are long enough in side the door, if not door card will need to come off.

Either way you do it be sure to check the length of reed switch protruding from door as too long will result in damage when door is closed, and too short will mean reed switch can't work off the magnet.

Also worth checking the magnet has not fallen of the sill area on main body.

[Tanguero]

N1CERB said:

Sticky link still not working

Odd - it works fine for me.

Sticky said...

TT Tim said:

Door proximity switches:

Can't take credit for the info as I found it on PH, but thought I'd add it here:

RS Components, and part no. 455-3744, this switch can be NC or NO, TVR use Normally closed circuit, so ignore the green wire and just use the white (common) and the brown. They are £6.72 + VAT each. If you have an account P&P is free otherwise it's £4.95 I believe.

Tim

Edited by Tanguero on Wednesday 13th August 13:11

[TimJM]

It may not be the sensor - I would test that before you go buying new ones. Here is a quick guide I put together when I repaired my door window not dropping (usual symptom of a faulty reed switch).

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

[N1CERB]

http://www.tvr-cerbera.fsnet.co.uk/parts.htm
This is the link I am clicking on the very first posting. It is still not working and I am on my work PC now?

Anyway, thanks everyone for the info. This should get me away tonight and at least have a good look at everything while I wait for new reeds to arrive.

I was on the phone for a good while last night with Carl and he sugested I swap them out anyway as it wont harm. I am having issues with passenger locks and window sequence you see. Its just a process of illimination beofre I swap out my alarm and immobilser for new kit.

Out of interest, is there an easy way of checking magent position? I will go read the write up now, perhaps it will answer this for me?

Thanks again everyone

Dave...

[Tanguero]

N1CERB said:

http://www.tvr-cerbera.fsnet.co.uk/parts.htm
This is the link I am clicking on the very first posting. It is still not working and I am on my work PC now?

Anyway, thanks everyone for the info. This should get me away tonight and at least have a good look at everything while I wait for new reeds to arrive.

I was on the phone for a good while last night with Carl and he sugested I swap them out anyway as it wont harm. I am having issues with passenger locks and window sequence you see. Its just a process of illimination beofre I swap out my alarm and immobilser for new kit.

Out of interest, is there an easy way of checking magent position? I will go read the write up now, perhaps it will answer this for me?

Thanks again everyone

Dave...

The equivalent parts sticky thread is in this forum, up at the top of the list of threads in the Cerbera section here on Pistonheads. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&a... third thread down "Equivalent Part Numbers". The website you mention is, I believe a list generated from the thread on here. The sticky has the latest information as people add to it as new discoveries are made and sources found.

Problems with door and windows almost always comes down to corrosion on the distinctly non-waterproof connectors inside the doors. Clean those up, or preferably replace them with properly waterproof ones like "AMP Superseal" and the problems go away. Occasionally the reed switches fail but its more likely that wire has corroded off the back of it!

You can check the reed switch for function with a magnet. Touch the end of the reed switch with a small magnet and the car will think that the door has closed and put the window up and the interior light off. The easiest way I found to adjust the position of the reed switch is to put a small lump of blu-tac on the magnet on the door sill and close the door. The impression of the end of the reed switch in the blu-tac gives you a good idea of how close it is coming to the magnet. You don't want them to touch, a gap of about 3-5mm is ideal. To adjust the reed, just undo the lock nut and screw it in or out of the plate.

All that said, the problem will actually turn out to be corroded connectors inside the door!

[N1CERB]

A further reply to the above, what I noticed is my passenger reed switch has about 8mm of thread exposed. The drivers side is more like 10mm. This looks rather a lot to me and with the ends of the reed switches being brightly polished and contact points on the magnets being visible I would hazard a guess at the reed touching the magnet. Would this give an issues do you reckon?

Cheers
Dave

[N7GTX]

Mine came with the 'Reed' switches removed and ordinary door switches like those on 1990s cars fitted. Just the simple plunger type. It might mean drilling a small hole for the self tapping screw or small nut and bolt if it does not line up with existing holes.
Work perfectly and added bonus is that if you want the window to go all the way up with the door open, simply depress the plunger and the window will shut fully without pressing the window buttons.

Edited by N7GTX on Tuesday 26th August 16:20

[N1CERB]

Worth a try if I get stuck, cheers.

From this then I guess that if I just put a wire across the terminals it will simulate the swtich being open? Removing the plug should simulate a door being closed as the circuit would be broken. This just replicating how a normal plunger switch works. Its the opposite to how I thought the reed switch worked!

Good fun!

[Chimp871]

Thread resurrection.....

My door Reed switch is broke (stripped wires back still open loop on multimeter)

I see the part I need is RS stock number is 455-3744.

It has 3 wires, the one I removed has 2. Do I just snip earth or is there another known part?

Also, is there a procedure to set the windows e.g how much they drop when opening the door?

- ---
Assume I just find continuity across 2 wires and snip the wire that reads zero?

Edited by Chimp871 on Tuesday 5th June 20:29

[ginkent]

Chimp871 said:

Also, is there a procedure to set the windows e.g how much they drop when opening the door?

Also interested to know this

[FarmyardPants]

ginkent said:

Chimp871 said:

Also, is there a procedure to set the windows e.g how much they drop when opening the door?

Also interested to know this

The drop is dictated by the glass hitting the microswitch inside the door. As soon as the switch is closed, the window stops dropping. If for some reason the glass doesn’t close the switch, or the switch or wiring is broken, the window will drop a long way down (halfway open or more). One cause of this is that the little flap of plastic on the switch is dislodged. It has two tiny pins which clip it to the switch and sometimes one of the pins pops out of its mounting causing the flap to go wonky and not operate the switch. Easy to take the door card off and check.

[WIL35]

I think I know what I'll be doing this weekend. Both my windows drop halfway before the door pops open.

[FarmyardPants]

Use a magnet on the reed switch to make the window go fully up, to access the microswitch.

[ukcerb]

Passengers window stopped dropping before door opening.
Thanks for all previous posts, they were so useful for diagnosis.
Found that a wire had nearly broken through in the door loom between the rubber grommets so bit awkward getting to that to repair especially replacing grommets but found silicone spray made it a lot easier to pop them back in.
After all that window dropped first time then stopped working again so not just a faulty wire then.
Finally traced it to the magnetic switch at the base of the door getting stuck “open”. Took the switch out and linked it to the multi meter and activated and deactivated with a magnet until it was working smoothly again (reading 0volts and 12v respectively) so I’m guessing lack of use may be the cause?
Anyway thanks again to all previous posts and don’t give up at the first attempt with these cars!

[Chimp871]

Changed both Reed switches (from RS) and now windows drop before the door opens. Also discarded bullet wire connectors and used tyco waterproof connectors (otherwise problem will just return). Simple fix and cheap.