Standard Speaker Setup?
Discussion
I am about to set about fitting a Multichanger to my non-standard stereo head unit tonight
I have a question about the speakers in the car (which is a 96 4.2 Cerbie).
I have two tweeters, one in each door. Then there is an 8"x6" (approx) centre speaker in the front (two way Pioneer, which seems utterly gutless), and then two small (4"?) speakers in the B pillars.
Is this pretty standard? That Pioneer centre HAS to go. It is useless.
Thanks for any advice!
I have a question about the speakers in the car (which is a 96 4.2 Cerbie).
I have two tweeters, one in each door. Then there is an 8"x6" (approx) centre speaker in the front (two way Pioneer, which seems utterly gutless), and then two small (4"?) speakers in the B pillars.
Is this pretty standard? That Pioneer centre HAS to go. It is useless.
Thanks for any advice!
Yes this is the standard set up for early cerbs. The centre speaker was dropped after early 97 to make way 4 an equally useless parcel shelf (everything falls out round bends)and 6" components in the door. If you want to upgrade, i suggest leave the tweets and rears in situe and do a rear pod to subwoofer conversion. Joolz at Joospeed does it which basically replaces the egg between the seats with an enclosure containing sub and then amp in boot. Sounds much better. The door speakers can be upgraded to Infinity components or similar for a reasonable sum. Just leave the rears. They are only there for fill anyway. Ive got the sub conversion and trimmed it in leather. i've used an upgraded sub and spent a bit of time on the mounting but well worth it. If i can remember how to attach photos i will do.
>> Edited by clarky5150 on Wednesday 24th July 17:35
>> Edited by clarky5150 on Wednesday 24th July 17:35
if you have a two way in the front then that's an upgrade .. first cars had a dual cone affair which was very naff. you can change that for a decent three way 6/9. the door tweeters can be left alone, and the rear speakers can have chokes fitted to limit the bass going to them, most speakers only misbehave if fed too much bass, so limit this and they'll be ok. then go for a subwoofer like clarkey's and you'll have something that plays an approximation to music..
Clarkey.
Thanks for the pictures, although I didn't reply yesterday, I did read your post.
Interested in what you said there, and you guys are right. I took the baffle off the front speaker to reveal a dual cone speaker, not a 2 way speaker after all. I have some 6/9 3-way Kenwoods hiding somewhere, which I think I will fit into the front (if it is not too much of a bad job).
The multichanger fitment went well, and is really easy. Let me know if you want more detail, and I will post it. Basically, I have a different head unit (Sony MDX-600 "Active Back Panel"). The multichanger is a Sony too (because it has to be I think). I have put the changer in the boot, and the leads come through a drilled hole above the Fuel Tank. They then go along the transmission tunnel, and feed up behind the stereo. 1 Hours work if you are taking your time I reckon.
Sub might be the way to go - at 90 it can get difficult to hear the sounds without the rears trying to throw their cones across the car
Thanks for the pictures, although I didn't reply yesterday, I did read your post.
Interested in what you said there, and you guys are right. I took the baffle off the front speaker to reveal a dual cone speaker, not a 2 way speaker after all. I have some 6/9 3-way Kenwoods hiding somewhere, which I think I will fit into the front (if it is not too much of a bad job).
The multichanger fitment went well, and is really easy. Let me know if you want more detail, and I will post it. Basically, I have a different head unit (Sony MDX-600 "Active Back Panel"). The multichanger is a Sony too (because it has to be I think). I have put the changer in the boot, and the leads come through a drilled hole above the Fuel Tank. They then go along the transmission tunnel, and feed up behind the stereo. 1 Hours work if you are taking your time I reckon.
Sub might be the way to go - at 90 it can get difficult to hear the sounds without the rears trying to throw their cones across the car
Digging around in the garage, I found a pair of 200W hitachi midi system cans - and being a tight @rsed yorkshireman - stuck them in the bucket shaped rear glove compartments (aka seats). Result was far better than the original 4 Pioneer 20w things. I know it looks silly but I can get 75% volume without distortion now, get a better dynamic range and it's much quieter outside the car. If that's possible with Peninsula sports exhausts, that is....
Just started my upgrade with the help of Andy at Sound Alarming in Welling. I am installing a set of Kenwood dual mag 17cm components with tweeters monted on the top of the door trim in the fronts (you are very restricted in the front because of the 50mm available depth). In the rear a pair of Kenwood 10cm stacked component (i.e. separate tweeter and mid but mounted together) that drop straight in.
In the crash helmet holder between the rear seats, an Alpine 10" 1000 Watt subs drops in with tons (5mm) of room to spare.
Coupled with one 4 channel Apline amp (two channels bridged mono for sub, and 2 for front Kenwoods), and the rear Kenwoods happily driven off the head unit with passive crossovers fitted, the system is a lovely sounding setup for a very reasonable sum of £750.
Must admit I still prefer the sound of the car, but you have to give in the the other half at times, even if it is for Ronan Keating AARGHHHHH!!!
Ray
In the crash helmet holder between the rear seats, an Alpine 10" 1000 Watt subs drops in with tons (5mm) of room to spare.
Coupled with one 4 channel Apline amp (two channels bridged mono for sub, and 2 for front Kenwoods), and the rear Kenwoods happily driven off the head unit with passive crossovers fitted, the system is a lovely sounding setup for a very reasonable sum of £750.
Must admit I still prefer the sound of the car, but you have to give in the the other half at times, even if it is for Ronan Keating AARGHHHHH!!!
Ray
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