Starter bloody starter

[Supateg]

No, the car will still be immobilised with the alarm. So you won’t get very far.

[ukkid35]

I've been on a bit of a journey, which is why I now have two spare starter motors, one of which lives in the boot

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[Supateg]

Excellent post Paul, I can sympathise with lubricant side as I used urea high temp grease and suffered sticky issues.
Then switched to Graphite Powder (kasp door lock type) and my sticky issues disappeared, maybe more regular use helped too. Maybe I have a marginal solonoid; time will tell and I can use the info here to fully diagnose…if I remember!

[FarmyardPants]

Jordie Barretts sock said:

Haven't you just explained to the Internet how to hot wire a Cerbera?

Not really. This method still needs the immobiliser to have been disabled for the fuel pump to run.

[ukkid35]

I was hoping that the starter motor heat shield that I made would cure the heat soak issue

It hasn't

I still had some occasions during the last track day when I had to wait for the car to cool, even so I think it's made some difference





Didn't stop us having a great time though

[Supateg]

I too have a starter heat shield, but from studying the fitment (from the rear with the gearbox off) the design it would trap radiant rising heat from the exhaust manifold and reflect it back at the starter.

I think removing heat from the manifold itself would be more beneficial. I took that approach by the ceramic coating route eight years ago. Hopefully 30-40% reduced radiant heat in the engine bay, bell housing & gearbox.
This year I’ve been stood in crawling traffic 18 degrees ambient for over an hour without any signs of anything failing with the fans constantly cycling, while not at your extremes of use Paul a good test id say

[ukkid35]

Supateg said:

This year I’ve been stood in crawling traffic 18 degrees ambient for over an hour without any signs of anything failing with the fans constantly cycling, while not at your extremes of use Paul a good test id say

My experience of running the car with a compromised cooling system, most recently when the ECU temp sensor failed, has shown me that the most difficult test for the car is sitting in slowly moving traffic on a hot day

If the car is moving at over 50mph, the cooling system will work just fine even when the system isn't sealed, or is missing several litres of coolant

[ukkid35]

Supateg said:

I think removing heat from the manifold itself would be more beneficial. I took that approach by the ceramic coating route eight years ago. Hopefully 30-40% reduced radiant heat in the engine bay, bell housing & gearbox.

I would like to do that too, but the cost has put me off, perhaps I should think again and start saving

[The Nige]

Hi All,
Thanks for the input, I had a chat with Carl last night and have now ruled out the immobiliser, I did a check on the starter signal wire with the Sealey probe and nothing.
So, tonight I’m looking to remove the starter and do some checks.
I’ve got graphite powder being delivered tomorrow, I’m hoping that this is all I’m going to need.
Cheers

[ukkid35]

You don't want to hear this, but it looks like the replacement solenoids are NLA

CCW/WOSP are no longer advertising them, promoting their new, and very expensive starter motor instead

Part number is/was LMRS010

[ukkid35]

It might be possible to get one from Demon Tweeks as Tilton list them as one of their UK dealers

https://tiltonracing.com/dealer-locator/united-kin...

[The Nige]

Well,
This is the state of the exciter wire,



I don't think I can leave that like that.
So, hopefully replace wire and lubricate solenoid with graphite powder, I really don't want to buy another starter for a while,
surely, I can make a good one out of these.

[ukkid35]

The body changed at one point such that the solenoids are not interchangeable

Hopefully all of yours are the same, but don't rely on it until you've checked

Also, be sure to check that both coils work on the solenoid

Edited by ukkid35 on Friday 31st May 04:53

[Billy_Rosewood]

ukkid35 said:

You don't want to hear this, but it looks like the replacement solenoids are NLA

CCW/WOSP are no longer advertising them, promoting their new, and very expensive starter motor instead

Part number is/was LMRS010

I have one of these available if anyone needs one. Never needed it in the end so it's as new.

[Supateg]

The Nige said:

Well,
This is the state of the exciter wire,



I don't think I can leave that like that.
So, hopefully replace wire and lubricate solenoid with graphite powder, I really don't want to buy another starter for a while,
surely, I can make a good one out of these.

I’ve never seen a herd of AJP starters before! Can’t get much better than wosp…

I replaced the ‘exciter’ wire last time it was out together with heat shield revamp and a little support for the wire. It may help, time will tell. The solenoid and plunger all got the graphite treatment. For reference this is a Powerlite unit. Also showing the additional pin utilisation on the plug.






Also highlights starter versions with solenoid on ‘the other side’

Edited by Supateg on Friday 31st May 06:13

[The Nige]

Quick update, new exiter wire soldered in, solenoid all graphited up and an earth cable fitted from the battery terminal to one of the starter fixing bolts. All seems to be working well.
So confident I wen't and had the air con re charged



Thanks for all the input.
Nigel

[gruffalo]

I seem to have developed a starter issue.

I think it is the solenoid as when the black button is pushed I can hear a click from the Solenoid but no cranking and now power draw from the battery. Only doest it when hot.

Starter is a WOSP unit, does anyone know where I can get a solenoid from ?

Cheers
Gruf

[Supateg]

gruffalo said:

I seem to have developed a starter issue.

I think it is the solenoid as when the black button is pushed I can hear a click from the Solenoid but no cranking and now power draw from the battery. Only doest it when hot.

Starter is a WOSP unit, does anyone know where I can get a solenoid from ?

Cheers
Gruf

I don’t have any dimensions for the wosp/tilton original solenoid, only the hitachi (Nissan) one. If anyone could provide I could check see what’s out there. (Hitachi dims supplied for reference)

Edited by Supateg on Sunday 9th June 20:09

[Supateg]

[The Nige]

I seem to have developed a starter issue.
I think it is the solenoid as when the black button is pushed I can hear a click from the Solenoid but no cranking and now power draw from the battery. Only does it when hot.
Starter is a WOSP unit, does anyone know where I can get a solenoid from ?
Cheers
Gruf


This is what I was struggling with the wosp starter from October 2020, fortunately I contacted CCW Tools who from somewhere found a new old stock starter, but where adamant solenoids where no longer available. Like Ukkid35 said, somewhere between 2020 and 2024 the solenoid unit changed.

Not much help I know but surely the solenoid must be used on another brand of starter.

Have you looked at the connection of the black exciter wire, mine was in bits.

The new starter from wosp does look a bit special, but I was over at Taylor TVR in April, and they were more than happy with the unit supplied by Racetech Direct.