Tilton Slave, Zircotech Headers and Injector cleaning
Discussion
Supateg said:
FarmyardPants said:
Thanks! Just one gearbox bolt to go, which is a bit of a PITA to get at/get the hex key seated properly
I’d expect it’s one the top ones which requires an unusual number of wobble extensions ![hehe](/inc/images/hehe.gif)
Or a loss of skin…
FarmyardPants said:
Have made some progress but got a bit stuck. I am following the late, great MadMark’s guide. The gearbox input shaft is clear of the slave but the gearbox is wedged. It’s tight on the manifolds and also touching the chassis in the gearstick region. I guess I need to rotate it(?)
I have the two piece act manifolds, so maybe another user can help. However I always undo the gear selection plate (four bolts top of gearbox and tie the gearstick up and out of the way inside the cabin. The engine sump is supported with a block of wood and a jack underneath as I can lower the rear slightly to allow removal rearwards for me. I understand the manifolds for you will be hindering operations! Good luck
Edited by Supateg on Sunday 28th January 17:42
Supateg said:
FarmyardPants said:
Have made some progress but got a bit stuck. I am following the late, great MadMark’s guide. The gearbox input shaft is clear of the slave but the gearbox is wedged. It’s tight on the manifolds and also touching the chassis in the gearstick region. I guess I need to rotate it(?)
I have the two please act manifolds, so maybe another user can help. However I always undo the gear selection plate (four bolts top of gearbox and tie the gearstick up and out of the way inside the cabin. The engine sump is supported with a block of wood and a jack underneath as I can lower the rear slightly to allow removal rearwards for me. I understand the manifolds for you will be hindering operations! Good luck
![smile](/inc/images/smile.gif)
![hehe](/inc/images/hehe.gif)
Edit: I have detached gearstick with the 4 bolts and tied gearstick up. The gaiter is straining.
The current state of play.
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/Mgfe6Xwa.jpg)
The bottom of the box is on the manifolds.
The top is right at the top of the transmission tunnel:
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/XQhjmPa6.jpg)
(I am supporting the gearbox, I just removed the jack temporarily for the first photo)
I will try jacking up the bell housing and front of the gearbox to lower the rear, and try to get the whole thing over the manifold flanges but it is very tight![frown](/inc/images/frown.gif)
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/Mgfe6Xwa.jpg)
The bottom of the box is on the manifolds.
The top is right at the top of the transmission tunnel:
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/XQhjmPa6.jpg)
(I am supporting the gearbox, I just removed the jack temporarily for the first photo)
I will try jacking up the bell housing and front of the gearbox to lower the rear, and try to get the whole thing over the manifold flanges but it is very tight
![frown](/inc/images/frown.gif)
FarmyardPants said:
The current state of play.
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/Mgfe6Xwa.jpg)
The bottom of the box is on the manifolds.
The top is right at the top of the transmission tunnel:
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/XQhjmPa6.jpg)
(I am supporting the gearbox, I just removed the jack temporarily for the first photo)
I will try jacking up the bell housing and front of the gearbox to lower the rear, and try to get the whole thing over the manifold flanges but it is very tight![frown](/inc/images/frown.gif)
What’s happening with the propshaft? In the picture it looks to be attached to the gearbox? ![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/Mgfe6Xwa.jpg)
The bottom of the box is on the manifolds.
The top is right at the top of the transmission tunnel:
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/XQhjmPa6.jpg)
(I am supporting the gearbox, I just removed the jack temporarily for the first photo)
I will try jacking up the bell housing and front of the gearbox to lower the rear, and try to get the whole thing over the manifold flanges but it is very tight
![frown](/inc/images/frown.gif)
Lower the support on the bellhousing so you can lift the gearbox more. You need to be careful of the flanges on the exhaust manifolds, they can catch on the gearbox and stop it moving. Finally you might need to gently lever the manifolds apart for the box to come out. There's a method involving spinning the gearbox upside down but I've not had to resort to that for my car.
Haven’t had much time to work on the car but got back at it today - progress is being made:
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/DVgjLTbV.jpg)
I did find it tricky to get the hole saw started - being only a few mm smaller than the bellhousing causes it to jiggle around with nothing to guide it. So I drilled through two of the original slave holes and screwed a piece of wood to the back, for the drill bit to locate on:
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/YECNhSpG.jpg)
The screw heads impinged on the saw a little but not enough to cause any problems.
I test fitted the (supplied) anti rotation pin and I’m pleased to say it works great, thread is correct and it lines up with the hole on the tilton. I cut about 25mm off the end of it.
Next job is to tidy up the BH and refit it for the all-important finger distance measurement..
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/DVgjLTbV.jpg)
I did find it tricky to get the hole saw started - being only a few mm smaller than the bellhousing causes it to jiggle around with nothing to guide it. So I drilled through two of the original slave holes and screwed a piece of wood to the back, for the drill bit to locate on:
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/YECNhSpG.jpg)
The screw heads impinged on the saw a little but not enough to cause any problems.
I test fitted the (supplied) anti rotation pin and I’m pleased to say it works great, thread is correct and it lines up with the hole on the tilton. I cut about 25mm off the end of it.
Next job is to tidy up the BH and refit it for the all-important finger distance measurement..
The gearbox is back on but I can’t get 1st, 3rd or 5th gears, with or without the clutch (engine not running yet).
Reading up it seems like it may be a problem with the nylon cup. I checked it was there before I refitted the gearstick plate. Looks like I have to lower the GB again and see what’s up. Any other ideas? Thanks
Reading up it seems like it may be a problem with the nylon cup. I checked it was there before I refitted the gearstick plate. Looks like I have to lower the GB again and see what’s up. Any other ideas? Thanks
FarmyardPants said:
The gearbox is back on but I can’t get 1st, 3rd or 5th gears, with or without the clutch (engine not running yet).
Reading up it seems like it may be a problem with the nylon cup. I checked it was there before I refitted the gearstick plate. Looks like I have to lower the GB again and see what’s up. Any other ideas? Thanks
^ it was the nylon cup, it had popped outReading up it seems like it may be a problem with the nylon cup. I checked it was there before I refitted the gearstick plate. Looks like I have to lower the GB again and see what’s up. Any other ideas? Thanks
Just to update with my experiences, I've had the Tilton slave fitted for a few months now and it works well. I didn't change the master cylinder, and while the pedal throw is reduced compared with stock (and other cars) it is still progressive enough. It is a bit stiffer, no doubt due to the reduced mechanical advantage, but perfectly usable. For the clutch stop I added a threaded sleeve to the end of the pedal rod, made from an ally collar that I tapped and filed down:
![](https://forums-images.pistonheads.com/59130/202406276458671?resize=720)
The pedal/collar was adjusted to make the biting point very close to the floor so as not to damage the fingers. I used the existing hydraulic hose with AN adaptors to mate with the Tilton. The bleed hose I ordered was 50cm which is too long really, 20cm would have been enough to have the bleed nipple in its usual place.
Overall I am very pleased with the result. No fluid loss or drips on the floor. I should have done this years ago, huge thanks to the contributors of this thread for pioneering this and for such detailed instructions
.
The pedal/collar was adjusted to make the biting point very close to the floor so as not to damage the fingers. I used the existing hydraulic hose with AN adaptors to mate with the Tilton. The bleed hose I ordered was 50cm which is too long really, 20cm would have been enough to have the bleed nipple in its usual place.
Overall I am very pleased with the result. No fluid loss or drips on the floor. I should have done this years ago, huge thanks to the contributors of this thread for pioneering this and for such detailed instructions
![thumbup](/inc/images/thumbup.gif)
The OEM feed hose needs routing away from the exhaust - my solution is a bit of wire on one of the GB to BH bolts which guides it away, at the top I cable tied the feed and bleed hoses together, which keeps the feed hose running close to the GB and away from the manifolds. I needed a 90deg elbow male-male adaptor to join the OEM feed hose to the Tilton one.
![](https://forums-images.pistonheads.com/59130/202406276619426?resize=720)
edit: the hydraulic hoses were wrapped in heat insulating/reflecting foil tape.
edit: the hydraulic hoses were wrapped in heat insulating/reflecting foil tape.
Edited by FarmyardPants on Thursday 27th June 18:26
Also a shout out to Peter for the loan of his spigot shaft, without which I would never have got the gearbox on. After getting the clutch aligned, I managed to get the gearbox in with about 10 minutes of jiggling. I had dreaded that part but in the end it wasn't bad at all. And this is with the car on axle stands.
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