Help please 600 clutch slave

Help please 600 clutch slave

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S70JPS

Original Poster:

619 posts

226 months

Sunday 13th May 2012
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I'm having a mare trying to remove the clutch slave. There are 2 10MM bolts which are stuck. If i could get to them properly i may be in with a chance. There are also 2 19mm bolts which seem to hold a bracket? I've thought about taking the radiator out to get at them. Has anyone had this problem and can you help?

MGJohn

10,203 posts

189 months

Friday 18th May 2012
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With several Rover 600 turbos in the family, some with high mileages, I've renewed the little seal in a few of their slave cylinders over the years ...smile.

The Bracket holding the Clutch Slave Cylinder on both the Rover engined 600s, Petrol and Diesel turbos, are identical.

I dislike working under a car and prefer to access these components from above. Yes, on the 620ti, remove the Air Filter Housing Assembly to access the two large through bolts which clamp the gearbox to the adaptor plate also holds the Slave Cylinder Bracket. Soak the bolts in Penetrating Fluid overnight if they've not been disturbed for ages. Then, with the two bolts removed, you can pull the assembly away and bleed the slave as in these pictures :~







So much easier to bleed the hydraulics this way. A case of what appears more work is actually easier and less time consuming as well as avoiding all that on your back, under the car mullarkey.

When doing this I always flush and renew all the fluid in the system which always gets contaminated as the little seal in the slave wears away, losing pressure with wear. The fluid reservoir benefits from a clean too :~



Unless the cylinder bore of the slave has really deteriorated, in which case only a new replacement will do the job, careful use of fine grade wet and dry in the bore can have it's operation like new. If the bore is seriously corroded, the roughness of the corroded areas will quickly wear out a new slave seal.



Get the Hydraulic Clutch operating as it should and gear selection will be silky smooth. Not only that, you should be able to select reverse without that 'crunch'. That's because there will not be any clutch drag as happens when the slave is no longer able to fully release the clutch keeping the gearbox internals moving hence the crunch with the straight cut, non synchromesh reverse gear pinions.

P.S. When I first attempted this job, I discovered it was impossible to bleed the system in the conventional way with pumping the Clutch Pedal only. That always leaves some air in the slave. Only by pressing the slave's pushrod into the cylinder fully with the bleed nipple open can that air be expelled.

Get it right and it will transform the clutch and gear selection operations.
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