acceleratot cable - which one?
Discussion
I think you should get the mk2. There is a new bracket that you need to get with it - it helps the problem at the pedal end with the cable bending round hence causing it to fray and snap over time.
John A would know as he fitted my spare mk2 cable!
Cheers,
Andy.
>> Edited by andyvdg on Monday 21st July 10:11
John A would know as he fitted my spare mk2 cable!
Cheers,
Andy.
>> Edited by andyvdg on Monday 21st July 10:11
The *other bit" is the bracket that holds the pedal end of the cable. It is brass coloured with two holes by which it is bolted to the pedal box and has a plate with a hole into which the end of the cable is located. The original one has a large hole with a plastic insert that holds a nylon bush on the cable. The Mk 2 cable is secured by a retaining nut and requires a bracket with a smaller hole.
The TMS site lists 2 versions of "Tuscan - PEDAL BOX THROTTLE ABUT.BRKT" at slightly different prices. I guess these are the ones, but which is which is anyones guess!
Best phone them methinks. Oh, and definitely get the Mk2.
The TMS site lists 2 versions of "Tuscan - PEDAL BOX THROTTLE ABUT.BRKT" at slightly different prices. I guess these are the ones, but which is which is anyones guess!
Best phone them methinks. Oh, and definitely get the Mk2.
Yes I think the Mk2 is probably a better option, however if you are carrying one as a spare for a possible roadside repair you will also need to carry th following tools:-
1) Side cutters or a sharp knife (for cutting various cable ties that dealers strap the cables in with)
2) Pliers for removing the split pins
3) 9/16" DEEP socket for removing the engine end of the throttle cable (13mm just to small!)(why hasn't TVR gone metric!! - or at least standardised on the car)
4) 9/16" open ended spanner for removing the bottom nut on the engine end of the throttle cable
5) set of Allen keys for removing the machine screws that hold the air box onto the engine, and the foot pedal plate (ring spanner required for adding to Allen key when 'snapping' the air box/engine machine screws undone)
6) spare 8mm(I think, please check) nut to add to your new MK2 throttle cable bracket
7) some 150mm and bigger cable ties for strapping the variuos cable back in the anti-rattle mode
8) 13mm deep socket/or 13mm combination spanner for removing the nuts on the brake vacuum servo behind the foot pedals that will hold your new braket
9) a box of patience
10) an empty swear box
11) asbestos hands
12) WET WIPES - industrial strength cleaner!!!
Have fun
Simon
Tuscan Throttle Cable Roadside Repairs Ltd !!!
(currently in receivership for not actually turning a profit!)
1) Side cutters or a sharp knife (for cutting various cable ties that dealers strap the cables in with)
2) Pliers for removing the split pins
3) 9/16" DEEP socket for removing the engine end of the throttle cable (13mm just to small!)(why hasn't TVR gone metric!! - or at least standardised on the car)
4) 9/16" open ended spanner for removing the bottom nut on the engine end of the throttle cable
5) set of Allen keys for removing the machine screws that hold the air box onto the engine, and the foot pedal plate (ring spanner required for adding to Allen key when 'snapping' the air box/engine machine screws undone)
6) spare 8mm(I think, please check) nut to add to your new MK2 throttle cable bracket
7) some 150mm and bigger cable ties for strapping the variuos cable back in the anti-rattle mode
8) 13mm deep socket/or 13mm combination spanner for removing the nuts on the brake vacuum servo behind the foot pedals that will hold your new braket
9) a box of patience
10) an empty swear box
11) asbestos hands
12) WET WIPES - industrial strength cleaner!!!
Have fun
Simon
Tuscan Throttle Cable Roadside Repairs Ltd !!!
(currently in receivership for not actually turning a profit!)
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