Discussion
I had my Tusk serviced at TVR Power this week
I was running it on Castrol RS 0w/40 and noticed that it liked it's oil.
Dominic at TVR Power let me know that they had filled it with Castrol Triple R which is a semi-synthetic oil at 10w/40. He qualified this by saying that
on an everyday use, just commuting or travelling out to get a loaf of bread, the oil doesn't get hot enough to warrant having the Castrol RS in. The RS
has to get good and hot for it to really protect a hot engine. it's a bit too thin for a cold one. The Triple R however helps protect the engine when it's colder AND it will burn less oil !!!! (Oh really!)
Well you would think they ought to know, they rebuild the b****y engines when they go pop, are owned by TVR and their workshops are littered with Speed Six bits. They had at least six cars outside with very sad gaps where the engines used to be!
Incidentally they set my engine up so sweetly - the power that I can get out of it now is amazing! It just roars away on demand. They didn't charge very
much for that either (still can't really believe it)
So I will keep an eye on the Castrol RRR and see if it disappears like the RS. Of course I guess it means I should drain that out for Track days and re-fill
with the RS (complicated huh!) He did say DO NOT MIX THE OILS!!
As I understood it TVR have now gone off Mobil 1 for anything but running in
- great isn't it this subject
("What do use to get rid of your warts ?..Oh! I use old pea pods with a dash of lemon juice"
"Really, how interesting"!)
simon
I was running it on Castrol RS 0w/40 and noticed that it liked it's oil.
Dominic at TVR Power let me know that they had filled it with Castrol Triple R which is a semi-synthetic oil at 10w/40. He qualified this by saying that
on an everyday use, just commuting or travelling out to get a loaf of bread, the oil doesn't get hot enough to warrant having the Castrol RS in. The RS
has to get good and hot for it to really protect a hot engine. it's a bit too thin for a cold one. The Triple R however helps protect the engine when it's colder AND it will burn less oil !!!! (Oh really!)
Well you would think they ought to know, they rebuild the b****y engines when they go pop, are owned by TVR and their workshops are littered with Speed Six bits. They had at least six cars outside with very sad gaps where the engines used to be!
Incidentally they set my engine up so sweetly - the power that I can get out of it now is amazing! It just roars away on demand. They didn't charge very
much for that either (still can't really believe it)
So I will keep an eye on the Castrol RRR and see if it disappears like the RS. Of course I guess it means I should drain that out for Track days and re-fill
with the RS (complicated huh!) He did say DO NOT MIX THE OILS!!
As I understood it TVR have now gone off Mobil 1 for anything but running in
- great isn't it this subject
("What do use to get rid of your warts ?..Oh! I use old pea pods with a dash of lemon juice"
"Really, how interesting"!)
simon
It should be on mineral oil at this time too early for synthetic oil, mine stayed on Castrol GTX until 6K mile service, then switched to Mobil 1 0W40, but that disapeared at quiet a rate, now after the 12K mile service it's on Castrol 10W60 fully synthetic & is much better on that consumption & pressure wise.Best thing is to ask the dealer which oil they used.
Nick
Nick
21TVR said:
I had my Tusk serviced at TVR Power this week
.....Dominic at TVR Power let me know that they had filled it with Castrol Triple R which is a semi-synthetic oil at 10w/40. He qualified this by saying that
on an everyday use, just commuting or travelling out to get a loaf of bread, the oil doesn't get hot enough to warrant having the Castrol RS in......
Ok it seems there was a mix up on this one! It is Triple R but it's not Castrol it's CARLUBE - it seems that TVR have struck a deal with Tetrosyl, the makers of Carlube, they are now adding Carlube 10w/40 to aal the new cars out of the factory and asking dealers to use it as well ?????? (confused - you will be!)
see here [url]www.tetrosyl.com/press.cfm?content=94[/url]
well oil beef hooked !
Simon
Now i've just got to find a supplier of Carlube that doesn't want a Gold Rolex for every 4litre can - I guess I put the cans and cans of Castrol RS that I have in the lawn mower!
I have never been so confused in my life, (except with my husband trying to convince me centimetres are inches, but thats another story). This oil thing is blowing my mind. Mineral,semi-synthetic,synthetic!!!!!!. After 6000 mls I havent used any oil, but as I have recently posted, my service dept are adamant that I only use mineral until the 1st service next week. There appears to be a lot of conflicting advice. Can anyone give the totally accurate info or do various dealers use differant oils from the start? Can you also confirm the correct pressure at normal running speeds? Ta in advance.
The handbook quotes (version 2 2000) Mineral oil until 1K miles, after this they say use Semi-Synthetic until 6K miles and after that use Fully Synthetic.
Now some dealers (yours & mine included) will re-fill using Mineral oil at the 1K service their reason being to help the engine run in correctly and then at 6K go onto fully synthetic oil.Other dealers switch to Semi-Synthetic oil at the 1K service.
The important thing is that you know what was used at the 1K service ie Mineral Oil so thats what you top up with.The type & grade your dealer should be able to tell you.
Nick
Now some dealers (yours & mine included) will re-fill using Mineral oil at the 1K service their reason being to help the engine run in correctly and then at 6K go onto fully synthetic oil.Other dealers switch to Semi-Synthetic oil at the 1K service.
The important thing is that you know what was used at the 1K service ie Mineral Oil so thats what you top up with.The type & grade your dealer should be able to tell you.
Nick
philipleslie67 said:
I have read quite a few threads and I've got in a bit of muddle (not difficult). My Tuscan S has approx 3k miles. I will be using the car for weekend blasts rather than daily driving..What oil would you guys recommend??
We I am currently at 3k in my 'S' and am using 'MOBIL SEMI-SYNTHETIC 15/40 OIL' which was added as part of the 1K service. I was told by Castle TVR to continue to use this until the 6K service where they will put in a different type of oil. The problem has been trying to get hold of this oil...so Castle were very kind as to sell me some to last until 6K.
Best think to do it consult your dealership where your bought your 'S' and continue to use whatever they put in it! IMO
Alan.
For what it is worth, ignor the manufacturer, but as a Tribologist(studying lubrication), at least in a former life, the basic diference is:
Mineral oils have a much lower ability to deal with extrems, either heat or temperature. They also can leave deposits which are natural but can cause issues with life.
Semi synths and fully synths are a bit like genetics. They have been designed and built with certain properties. These can very widely from Better heat, temp, life, durability.......and on.
Most reputable lubricant suppliers would always advise to follow the manufacturers instructions, yet in real terms are advised by the lubricant suppliers who are the real experts.
So.. The short answer is either are fine as long as they are from a reputable manufacturer such as shell, bp, kluber etc and special fully synths are generally the best.
Have a look on the web sites for Shell, BP, Kluber etc for more info, but beware it is a science all in itself.
St George.
Mineral oils have a much lower ability to deal with extrems, either heat or temperature. They also can leave deposits which are natural but can cause issues with life.
Semi synths and fully synths are a bit like genetics. They have been designed and built with certain properties. These can very widely from Better heat, temp, life, durability.......and on.
Most reputable lubricant suppliers would always advise to follow the manufacturers instructions, yet in real terms are advised by the lubricant suppliers who are the real experts.
So.. The short answer is either are fine as long as they are from a reputable manufacturer such as shell, bp, kluber etc and special fully synths are generally the best.
Have a look on the web sites for Shell, BP, Kluber etc for more info, but beware it is a science all in itself.
St George.
St george said:
......So.. The short answer is either are fine as long as they are from a reputable manufacturer such as shell, bp, kluber etc and special fully synths are generally the best.
Have a look on the web sites for Shell, BP, Kluber etc for more info, but beware it is a science all in itself.
Terry I think here lies the problem, it's a science that nobody truly seems to understand! Or if they do they just cannot fully quote the scientific rules.
As a taxidermist(I spray Black Cabs with water) i actually think it's got to do more with whatever deal either TVR or the dealers strike up with their supplier.
Potentially if Coca Cola struck up a deal with Blackpool, maybe we'd be running on Diet 33.5w/400 !!
We need a bit of concrete info on this oil issue from somebody - anybody qualified to give us a definitive here ?
Mineral ?
Semi-synthetic ?
Synthetic ?
Apathetic ?
21TVR said:
Mineral ?
Semi-synthetic ?
Synthetic ?
Apathetic ?
Mineral - comes from natural resources, i.e. they pump crude oil out of the ground and then refine it to get car oil (and some other stuff like petrol)
Synthetic - as the name suggests, this is man made, it is a nice mix of chemicals to reproduce oil, since it is man made it is of a purer form (for the purposes of running a car) than mineral stuff so it is "better"
Semi Synthetic - a mixture of the two, some mineral oil blended with some synthetic oil
All oils should say on the tin if they are synthetic or semi synthetic, if not then assume it is mineral oil (also the price is a give away, synthetic is expensive, mineral is cheap)
As for Apathetic - that would be all the poeple who know this but haven't replied
Graham
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