tick over adjust?
Discussion
I swear I read a thread on here on how to adjust the tick over on the Tuscan, but I can not find it no matter how hard I look for it...
If someone could point me in the right direction or re-iterate their knowledge of which screw I turn where to bring it back up to 800 odd as opposed to the 500 it is on now.
Thanks in advance
If someone could point me in the right direction or re-iterate their knowledge of which screw I turn where to bring it back up to 800 odd as opposed to the 500 it is on now.
Thanks in advance
Some kind people on the Cerbera thread knew about how to do this.
I've cut and pasted the highlights of the thread here for you: Basically there is a nut/screw you can alter to adjust the idle speed. If theres a major adjustment to be made then you should probably go to the garage and get it done as you can start having air/fuel mixture problems resulting with the MIL light flicking on.
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I'll try to explain which it is: If you stand on the offside of the car looking over the airbox you will
see between cylinders 3 & 4 ie the middle the top of the throttle cable with a pin connecting it to the
shaft running through all the throttle bodies.(from memory) on the other side of this shaft you will see
the nut and bolt, they are black and quite small. The only other similar bolts etc are the individual ones
to adjuct the throttle balance. They are slightly to the left , nearer the shaft and repeated on each
throttle body.
**************************************************
The speed 6 uses a nut with an allen keyed screw. Just release the nut ( can't remember size about 8-10mm)
and screw the idle up with the allen key. Retighten the nut to lock in place ensuring the screw stop doesn't
move.
I've cut and pasted the highlights of the thread here for you: Basically there is a nut/screw you can alter to adjust the idle speed. If theres a major adjustment to be made then you should probably go to the garage and get it done as you can start having air/fuel mixture problems resulting with the MIL light flicking on.
***************************************************
I'll try to explain which it is: If you stand on the offside of the car looking over the airbox you will
see between cylinders 3 & 4 ie the middle the top of the throttle cable with a pin connecting it to the
shaft running through all the throttle bodies.(from memory) on the other side of this shaft you will see
the nut and bolt, they are black and quite small. The only other similar bolts etc are the individual ones
to adjuct the throttle balance. They are slightly to the left , nearer the shaft and repeated on each
throttle body.
**************************************************
The speed 6 uses a nut with an allen keyed screw. Just release the nut ( can't remember size about 8-10mm)
and screw the idle up with the allen key. Retighten the nut to lock in place ensuring the screw stop doesn't
move.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=19053&f=0&h=0&hw=idle
found it, just whipped the bonnet off and got it bang on 1000, even when warm.
found it, just whipped the bonnet off and got it bang on 1000, even when warm.
Ston,
Word of warning.
Adjusting the idle without using the diagnostic computer to reset the minimum throttle setting will make the ecu think you are opening the throttle when the car is idling. This could make the engine lumpy and erratic.
Sounds like your throttle flows are needing set up as well. Makes the car feel sharper on acceleration and smoother.
Claire
Word of warning.
Adjusting the idle without using the diagnostic computer to reset the minimum throttle setting will make the ecu think you are opening the throttle when the car is idling. This could make the engine lumpy and erratic.
Sounds like your throttle flows are needing set up as well. Makes the car feel sharper on acceleration and smoother.
Claire
claire_scot said: Ston,
Word of warning.
Adjusting the idle without using the diagnostic computer to reset the minimum throttle setting will make the ecu think you are opening the throttle when the car is idling. This could make the engine lumpy and erratic.
Sounds like your throttle flows are needing set up as well. Makes the car feel sharper on acceleration and smoother.
Claire
Hi Claire. the SP6 ecu resets the minimum throttle pot every time you turn on the ignition, there is a reset on the diags software also, they did this to stop dealers who don't know what they're doing from messing up the settings - alas this also means you can't now manipulate the throttle pot to airflow relationship to smooth the engines out, it's nice to have a higher idle speed than the 850 ish tvr like but this means the adaptive fuelling is always adding fuel over and above the base map. If the tickover is dropping off because the valves are closing up and you're opening the throttles to compensate then you can quickly get to the stage where it's adding enough extra fuel to bring the MIL light on. the SP6 is a bugger for this. it also means that if you're raising the idle at home without the diags software you can't then reset the adaptive map fuelling trim values to go with the new throttle pot / airflow combination - result is often very poor running until the new values are learnt. resetting the individual throttle airflows works a treat as you rightly point out, sad thing is that it rarely gets the sort of attention lavished on it to make a difference - I've pissed myself laughing at some attempts to set the throttles properly ...!!
Best wishes, keep up the great work .. are you ever down this way?.. if so call in for a chat and my famous (ly bad) coffee ...
Joolz.
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