Rad Fan Setting Adjustment
Discussion
IIRC When I got my 4.5SS from Powers , I got Dom to change the fan settings in the bespoke ECU chip. Can't remember if it was transferred when I got the new MBE ECU installed. I got them to come on sooner and stay on longer. One problem is the displayed water temperature is a different sensor to the one the ECU receives it's information from , so better to check with TVR or EVOOLI s/w..
Edited by The Three D Mucketeer on Thursday 1st August 12:59
Ah thanks, so these ECUs have a chip rather than being able to make adjustments through the diagnostic port?
I have just received both new sensors which I'll replace along with the thermostat in the near future. I don't suspect it has any major issues but it's cheap insurance. If I fill the coolant to the elbow, it will push a fair bit out while hot/stationary. I think already replaced the cap but honestly can't remember. I imagine this is a symptom of not having an overflow bottle and that they will find their own level but I personally would prefer to have both fans kick in at 95 rather than just one.
I have just received both new sensors which I'll replace along with the thermostat in the near future. I don't suspect it has any major issues but it's cheap insurance. If I fill the coolant to the elbow, it will push a fair bit out while hot/stationary. I think already replaced the cap but honestly can't remember. I imagine this is a symptom of not having an overflow bottle and that they will find their own level but I personally would prefer to have both fans kick in at 95 rather than just one.
The fans are staggered in part to reduce the sudden power surge demand on the alternator, which you can feel as a momentary hesitation if you switch both fans on at the same time .
The best way to do it I think is to have the fan on and off temps very close, so the fans cycle more frequently rather than fans on for a long time, then off for a long time. To be fair the sp6 tvr temps work very well as is, but can be lowered a couple of degrees at most* if needed.
The best way to do it I think is to have the fan on and off temps very close, so the fans cycle more frequently rather than fans on for a long time, then off for a long time. To be fair the sp6 tvr temps work very well as is, but can be lowered a couple of degrees at most* if needed.
- you can't go too far or else you get to the point where the fans are still on when the thermostat closes ...
I was always told Oil temp should be 10 degrees below water in normal running on a "normal" day with air circulating . In traffic I find the oil temp gradually equals the water temp .... On a really hot day in traffic I've seen the water temp go to 100 degrees (but its under pressure so nowhere near boiling) but oil may get to high 90s but never more ... I think oil temp is the most important ... but I'm not an expert , just cautious
In fact the highest temps I've ever seen are with the engine switched off , and therefore no fans , just retained heart.
In fact the highest temps I've ever seen are with the engine switched off , and therefore no fans , just retained heart.
Edited by The Three D Mucketeer on Thursday 1st August 13:53
cammmy said:
Thanks, my intention would be to keep two stages but lower them 5 degrees. 1st fan at 90 and second at 95. I believe the thermostat I bought is 74 degrees, so should be enough of a difference there.
I saw a Tamora once that had been fitted with a couple of override switches in series with the fan relay coils so the fans could be manually switched on independent of each other or both switched on at the same, possibly due to the dash reading being higher than the true water temperature and probably unnecessary if the Ecu is in good working order.Gassing Station | Tuscan | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff