Sold Cerb. Thinking about TUSCAN but…

[geeeman]

Had my cerb 4.5 for many years, did everything to it , including engine rebuild etc , was a great car

always liked the tuscan so i am tempted to get another TVR, but i have some queries, hopefully you knowledgeable lot can help with

Mk1 tuscan am considering if has had engine rebuild. Is it possible to get the mk2 chassis setup for a mk1? is the mk2 same chassis specs same as t350/sag (apart from wider track)

Steering on MK1, hydraulic.. can it be converted to mk2/t350 electric set up easily?

Mk2 tuscan, all have the m80 hydratrack (i presume t350 and sag do also)? would have preferred the cone type lsd, but i dont think that can be retro fitted.

Are pedal box on all models adjustable for position ?

Would i just be better off going for a MK2, due to the better setup and later engine etc. Looks wise i prefer the mk1


thanks

[Sagi Badger]

OK, in order to your questions

Personally find the Mk1 fine, if you want an armchair ride this isn't it, Mk1 or 2, buy a euro-box.. T350 is not wider track but yes chassis same on later T cars. See my previous posts about making it feel lazy and less pointy. These do need a stiffer chassis really, jack one up at the rear outrigger and watch the door, Sag is not much better. I have binned the undertrays and made a tubed frame, when I eventually get time I will make a second version, it made a difference, noticeable when driving.

Yes, done it, used the trigger from the alternator to click a relay, so only pumps when engine running, saves ECU hacking which is not my forte (see my post from years back). Pump is Peugeot or Saxo. Means that daft belt is eliminated.

Diff can be swapped out, the Hydrotrak is OK but if you want to get angry then the cone is the job, BUT you will feel it work and especially with a thinner anti roll bar on the rear, so Hydrotrak will be smoother on road. IMO.

Pedal boxes, yes probably rusted up nuts n bolts, so bolts will spin... need a mate with small hands and triple jointed elbows, not easy if it fights you. yep right old naff set up, once you have sussed it and copper eased it the next owner will have an easier time. Personally don't like the pedal box, I have altered the spacing between pedals... MOT failure... sort of improves it but still not a Tilton.

MK1 for me, if you are scared of the handling reactions on road consider wider tyres to keep the sidewalls from being stretched. Buy one with old/bald tyres... Cannot stand stretched tyres, vertical side walls for me every time.

[geeeman]

thanks for the info

i do believe if it has the m80 not m76 then fitting a cone diff isnt easy?

what exactly are the differences in chassis between mk1 tusc and a t350? if its supension pick up points then cant really have that setup on a mk1

[The Three D Mucketeer]

I got the diff changed on my Tuscan convertible from the M80 (3:46) back to an M76 (3::73) , 4 flange to 3 flange and required a different prop shaft... John Reid(Grantura Engineering) and Heath Briggs (X-Works) did it for me , to get rid of my perceived shunt...which it did.,
The MK1 worm gear gives a lot faster steering rack hence why people regard it twitchy ... my understanding anyhow
The stiffer springs and Billies on a MK2 are an improvement but should imagine most MK1s have changed from the Harvey Baillies by now . I think my Nitrons and even stiffer front springs are a further improvement.... Other tweaks like a higher rack and 225 rather than 255s front tyres I've found better.

[geeeman]

so are there any differences in the suspension pick up points between mk1 and mk2?

i would prefer the cone diff, but looks like it needs a new prop also then?

[The Three D Mucketeer]

As far as I know the chassis is exactly the same MK1 & MK2 (T350 and Tamora) ... someone may know different
I think the roll cage on the MK2 maybe stronger and obviously the Convertible has roll hoops bolted to the chassis. MK2&convertible have side impact bars in the doors.
I know nothing about cone diffs .

[Basil Brush]

If you get a post March 2002 MK1 then it will have the same suspension & steering setup as the MK2, apart from the electric pump. The only difference on the later cars is that the front leg of the front upper wishbone was curved to allow more steering travel, which is why the later cars have more lock to lock steering movement, nothing to do with the rack gearing. The rear shocks on the Sag have a revised top mounting point, which makes them more upright.

[geeeman]

thanks thats good to know

also read somewhere the mk2 'S' has a closer ratio gearbox and different final drive to non 'S' mk2 cars? if so is there a big difference in the ratios?

[Basil Brush]

1st and second gears are higher, geared to give just over 60mph in 1st and 100mph in second at max revs, dropping the headline times by removing a gear change. The rest of the gears are the same iirc and not all S cars had them.

[Sagi Badger]

Mr Brush, didn't the upright change in Mk1 life, along with the top wishbone? The reaction to bump is different as a result. Still like my Mk1.

[Sagi Badger]

geeeman said:

thanks thats good to know

also read somewhere the mk2 'S' has a closer ratio gearbox and different final drive to non 'S' mk2 cars? if so is there a big difference in the ratios?

The final drive makes the most difference, I have tried all combos, (with a CR and non CR gearbox) 3.73 is a happy medium. My earlier reference to "swapping a diff" is slang for the complete unit, final drive etc. they are cheap enough and tough enough so second hand units have done me no harm, yet. Why are you so keen on a cone unit??

[geeeman]

Sagi Badger said:

geeeman said:

thanks thats good to know

also read somewhere the mk2 'S' has a closer ratio gearbox and different final drive to non 'S' mk2 cars? if so is there a big difference in the ratios?

The final drive makes the most difference, I have tried all combos, (with a CR and non CR gearbox) 3.73 is a happy medium. My earlier reference to "swapping a diff" is slang for the complete unit, final drive etc. they are cheap enough and tough enough so second hand units have done me no harm, yet. Why are you so keen on a cone unit??

had hydratrack then quaife on the cerb with 3.7
have plated diff in my other cars. would want to do track day stuff in the tuscan, so cone would be optimal i think

[The Three D Mucketeer]

Sagi Badger said:

Mr Brush, didn't the upright change in Mk1 life, along with the top wishbone? The reaction to bump is different as a result. Still like my Mk1.

The front upright changed because they were cast and cracked ... the only official DVLA recall on a TVR car .

[Basil Brush]

Sagi Badger said:

Mr Brush, didn't the upright change in Mk1 life, along with the top wishbone? The reaction to bump is different as a result. Still like my Mk1.

Yes, in March 2002 when the Tuscan S was launched. There are variations due to disc size and caliper mounting, ie S or non S, but the geometry stayed the same from there.

I've had all 3 front variations fitted to my early Mk1 at different points in it's life.

[Sagi Badger]

Basil Brush said:

Yes, in March 2002 when the Tuscan S was launched. There are variations due to disc size and caliper mounting, ie S or non S, but the geometry stayed the same from there.

I've had all 3 front variations fitted to my early Mk1 at different points in it's life.

If the top ball joint moves out the reaction will be different as the arm has scribed a longer arc, the static geometry, caster/camber will be the same. Think I am right, hence the later Mk1s were less "twitchy". Still love mine.....

[Basil Brush]

Sagi Badger said:

Basil Brush said:

Yes, in March 2002 when the Tuscan S was launched. There are variations due to disc size and caliper mounting, ie S or non S, but the geometry stayed the same from there.

I've had all 3 front variations fitted to my early Mk1 at different points in it's life.

If the top ball joint moves out the reaction will be different as the arm has scribed a longer arc, the static geometry, caster/camber will be the same. Think I am right, hence the later Mk1s were less "twitchy". Still love mine.....

Yes, less dynamic camber change, bump steer and KPI/scrub radius changed to work with 18 inch spiders.

[geeeman]

Spoke to Jason clegg recently
Said theres no difference between the early mk 1 chassis and the post 2001
What exactly are the differences referred to in this thread?

[Basil Brush]

geeeman said:

Spoke to Jason clegg recently
Said theres no difference between the early mk 1 chassis and the post 2001
What exactly are the differences referred to in this thread?

It's the front upper wishbone, front uprights and steering rack bar that are different. The upper wishbone is longer, with the top ball joint moved outwards by about 20mm. The steering rack bar is longer with the inner track rod ends 30mm further out each side and corresponding 30mm shorter track rods. The chassis itself is the same for all apart from the Sagaris. Mk2s also had a Ford sourced steering column, instead of the Vauxhall Vectra one on the Mk1, which means the column UJs run at a better angle.

I've swapped all these bits apart from the column, along with the steering pump, so am now running the late Tuscan setup on my very early Mk1.

Edited by Basil Brush on Thursday 21st March 16:33

[geeeman]

Ok thanks
Would that be very costly to get done?

[Basil Brush]

geeeman said:

Ok thanks
Would that be very costly to get done?

The wishbones and uprights are easy enough as all available new from Powers, Motaclan etc. The steering rack is the tougher part as not available new any more and pricey (c. 1k) when they do come up for sale. You could maybe get some spacers made, male thread on one end into the rack and female on other for inner tre, to effectively extend the rack bar. Steering pump is Citroen Saxo/Peugeot 106 and plenty around new/recond/used.