Discussion
My diff has started to whine, I have found a company locally that can repair any issues.
Has anyone removed one?
I assume the car will need to be on axle stands so I can crawl under the back and spin the wheels to remove prop shaft and drive shafts.
Being tvr are there any awkward bushes to remove or is access good?
I can put the car on my road trailer to give me better access if required
Any advice welcome
Lee
Has anyone removed one?
I assume the car will need to be on axle stands so I can crawl under the back and spin the wheels to remove prop shaft and drive shafts.
Being tvr are there any awkward bushes to remove or is access good?
I can put the car on my road trailer to give me better access if required
Any advice welcome
Lee
lee02 said:
My diff has started to whine, I have found a company locally that can repair any issues.
Has anyone removed one?
I assume the car will need to be on axle stands so I can crawl under the back and spin the wheels to remove prop shaft and drive shafts.
Being tvr are there any awkward bushes to remove or is access good?
I can put the car on my road trailer to give me better access if required
Any advice welcome
Lee
Let me know how you manage to access the prop' shaft nuts above the chassis rail. The bolt end is tight up against the domed diff plate so you can't get a ring spanner in there. An open ended spanner is at a poor angle due to the chassis rail proximity and would only round the nut once forced. Has anyone removed one?
I assume the car will need to be on axle stands so I can crawl under the back and spin the wheels to remove prop shaft and drive shafts.
Being tvr are there any awkward bushes to remove or is access good?
I can put the car on my road trailer to give me better access if required
Any advice welcome
Lee
I'm removing the prop' to get to the gearbox so i can't comment on your diff' woes.
Easy but hard work.
Get it high off the ground, and safe of course.
Undertrays off, exhausts off, prop off, CV joints split from flanges, diff mountings.
The prop shaft bolts need to be cracked off before the drive shaft otherwise you won't be able to lock it with the handbrake. You will need to rotate the prop 180 deg and do two at a time.
You will need to undo the cap heads on the CVs, leave the flanges in the diff. Be ready for grease bombs falling on you. The real PITA is the top diff mounting bolt at the back, it is all do able but you will struggle for access if too low on the ground.
I always put new cap heads in, with blue locker as well and new prop bolts, they are pennies Vs something hacking though the floor at whatever speeds you drive at. Get the correct grades....
The sensor bracket is probably best taken off with sensor in, done it a few times and the sensor is easily broken so leave it in the bracket and cable tie up. Check the gap when you refit, the shift on the bolt holes could move it too close.
The diff is quite heavy so get some bacon n eggs in and lure a mate round to help.
Get it high off the ground, and safe of course.
Undertrays off, exhausts off, prop off, CV joints split from flanges, diff mountings.
The prop shaft bolts need to be cracked off before the drive shaft otherwise you won't be able to lock it with the handbrake. You will need to rotate the prop 180 deg and do two at a time.
You will need to undo the cap heads on the CVs, leave the flanges in the diff. Be ready for grease bombs falling on you. The real PITA is the top diff mounting bolt at the back, it is all do able but you will struggle for access if too low on the ground.
I always put new cap heads in, with blue locker as well and new prop bolts, they are pennies Vs something hacking though the floor at whatever speeds you drive at. Get the correct grades....
The sensor bracket is probably best taken off with sensor in, done it a few times and the sensor is easily broken so leave it in the bracket and cable tie up. Check the gap when you refit, the shift on the bolt holes could move it too close.
The diff is quite heavy so get some bacon n eggs in and lure a mate round to help.
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