Belt squeal and other issues

[The Red Baron]

Hi Tuscan Gurus,

I'm new to Tuscan ownership, but have a Griff I've had for 15 years.

I'm still learning the car's idiosyncrasies and have a few questions to throw out there.

I've got a bit of belt squeal and wondered if anyone could tell me how to adjust the belt tension to solve the issue.

Also, what tyre pressures do you run with? I've got Toyo R888s all round and find the car tramlines a bit. Wondered if running a lower pressure would help. Not sure what the tyre pressures are at the moment.

What sort of engine warm-up procedure do most do: turn on and drive, keeping the rpm below 2500 until the oil is warm? Or turn on and let idle? What oil temperature do you wait for?

What's the 'red line' rpm for the Speed Six? Does it have a limiter?

There's a red pull handle under the dashboard on the driver's side. What's that for? Looks like a bonnet pull, but isn't.

Any info much appreciated.

Cheers.

[LucyP]

Use the search facility. All these questions have been answered many times before, when the forums were busier, and have discussed on threads here ad nauseam. The warm up routine especially.

The answer to your red handle question is the 2nd search result, if you search TVR Tuscan Red Handle. It's in the handbook also. It's also not working if you have pulled it, and you didn't notice anything happening. Might be useful to get it fixed ASAP in case the normal button fails (likely) (the search results will tell you which people to go to to get the many electronic control boxes repaired. Snake is a clue), and you need to get out in a hurry in the case of fire (also likely - there is a thread from 2009 about what causes Tuscan fires. See also below.

And on the subject of fire, you also might want to search for the threads that deal with fuel hose replacement.

You can always climb out through the gap where the roof panel used to be, before it blew off on the motorway (also likely). Search to see that the front clip modification is still present and hasn't fallen off or was never fitted (early cars didn't have it and were subject to a recall when customer testing and development revealed panels departing the car and ending up as bits on the road) and that it still holds the panel on, against the perished, ageing rubber, and also search for the roof locator pin threads to check the advice about adjustment and cable renewal.

Edited by LucyP on Thursday 1st February 23:35

[The Red Baron]

Thanks LucyP. I was being lazy.

All the info I needed I've found.

[Classic Chim]

No you weren’t.
Often someone’s just done it or indeed it’s good to discuss it before you delve in.
There might be a recent mod done that’s not documented.
Just because Lucy thinks you should refrain from talking and just google everything doesn’t mean you should.
How many roofs have departed and become deceased in the last decade or so?
A constant theme is looking at scare mongering and over inflating issues that are clearly good to be warned of but no need to be so damning considering how many have or are failing in today’s times.
Very few I’d wager.
The percentage makes it far from ( likely)
Fuel lines on every single car in the world can be a problem.
Fuel lines on Tvr are checked and changed and few Tvr burn because of it.
Basic maintenance and nothing to huff and puff about.

[porterpainter]

Welcome to T Car ownership

We need a picture of your new wheels please.

[The Red Baron]

Not the best pictures. I'll take some better ones soon.

And, yes, I like the big spoiler. If you've got it, flaunt it!!

Went out for a spin today and noticed the handbrake warning light was faintly glowing. As the rpm increased the glow got stronger.

I'm baffled and a search of the forums turned up nothing useful. Anyone got any ideas what this means?

[porterpainter]

Thanks for the pictures, lovely looking car (as is the griff).

Afraid I don’t have an answer re the handbrake light but I’m sure someone on here will be able to help.

[sixor8]

On a Griff or Chimaera, the dim handbrake / brake fluid lamp indicated on my car a cracked 100A fuse (the one on the chassis rail). Does the Tuscan have similar?

[notaping]

I had a similar problem on my Cerb a few years ago. Turned out to be the regulator on the alternator breaking down and over-volting at higher revs.

[s6boy]

The Red Baron said:

Hi Tuscan Gurus,

I'm new to Tuscan ownership, but have a Griff I've had for 15 years.

I'm still learning the car's idiosyncrasies and have a few questions to throw out there.

I've got a bit of belt squeal and wondered if anyone could tell me how to adjust the belt tension to solve the issue.

Also, what tyre pressures do you run with? I've got Toyo R888s all round and find the car tramlines a bit. Wondered if running a lower pressure would help. Not sure what the tyre pressures are at the moment.

What sort of engine warm-up procedure do most do: turn on and drive, keeping the rpm below 2500 until the oil is warm? Or turn on and let idle? What oil temperature do you wait for?

What's the 'red line' rpm for the Speed Six? Does it have a limiter?

There's a red pull handle under the dashboard on the driver's side. What's that for? Looks like a bonnet pull, but isn't.

Any info much appreciated.

Cheers.

You've already met the resident expert in all things Tuscan but fortunately he only comes out after the meds

Belt squeal is better than too tight I've been told, does it quiten down after warming?

Tyre pressure 25psi for me. I've always run the same pressure on Goodyear assymetrics (the latest iteration are a superb tyre). The car is very sensitive so you may find yourself making small adjustments with Toyo.

I treat warm up differently if the car has been used in the last couple of days or if standing for a month. As long as you're sympathetic with the engine I personally don't think there's any need to treat it differently to any other at the same level of tune. I try not to go over 3000rpm until the oil temp is 30degrees and don't labour it in too high a gear. You'll probably have found that moving oil to all the parts that need it was an issue on early cars. Later ones may of had impròved oil ways, not sure on this though as my '04 didn't.

I treat 7200 as the red line, but rarely go over 6500.

There should be a matching red handle for the passenger? It is worth making sure these operate properly, and push It back in after to avoid unexpected ventilation!

Fuel lines should have been changed by now but get them done at next service if not.

The roof will not fly and seeing as you have a later car the rear window won't pop out either, up to 130 anyway.

[Gladers01]

The Red Baron said:

Not the best pictures. I'll take some better ones soon.

And, yes, I like the big spoiler. If you've got it, flaunt it!!

Went out for a spin today and noticed the handbrake warning light was faintly glowing. As the rpm increased the glow got stronger.

I'm baffled and a search of the forums turned up nothing useful. Anyone got any ideas what this means?

Beautiful looking car, is the colour Alloy Pearl with the pod type dash?

The handbrake warning light flickering and then becoming a solid light on my old Targa 2 and Vert (different dashes) was the first sign that the clutch slave cylinder had started leaking and was indicating the fluid level had dropped slightly in the combined brake/clutch reservoir situated behind the pedal box near the brake pedal, worth checking as it may just need a top up.

Good luck with that one

[porterpainter]

Personally for warming up mine, I keep it below 2,500rpm until oil temp is 60 degrees. Below 3,000 rpm until 65 degrees and then I rev it freely.

[The Red Baron]

I've been told the colour is Paris Blue. Paint code TVR78 I think.

Its a 'Mk3', so wavy dash, which I prefer. First registered in April 06.

Thanks for all the advice and comments.

[glow worm]

The Red Baron said:

I've been told the colour is Paris Blue. Paint code TVR78 I think.

Its a 'Mk3', so wavy dash, which I prefer. First registered in April 06.

Thanks for all the advice and comments.

One way of telling from the exterior is that the headlight surrounds are body colour , prior to 2006 (when the targa baboons bum dash was changed to the convertibles dash) they were painted black (front and rear) .

[Basil Brush]

For the warm up, definitely drive it don't leave it idling from cold as it's easier on the top end.

[Gladers01]

The Red Baron said:

I've been told the colour is Paris Blue. Paint code TVR78 I think.

Its a 'Mk3', so wavy dash, which I prefer. First registered in April 06.

Thanks for all the advice and comments.

The wavy dash is probably the best with easy to read analogue and digital info and very reliable, also liked the all digital pod style dash but had problems with both of them fading out in the warmer temperatures and rebooting at random.

The 'MK3' must have been one of the rarest models TVR made apart from the new Griff and the prices are holding up well, there's a similar MK3 down at Mole Valley with 888 tyres and oval rear cans.

Happy motoring!

[The Red Baron]

Update: the squealing belt broke and the alternator hasn't been charging the battery. Made it home fortunately.

Is it an easy DIY job,or best left to a pro? If not a home job, could any reasonable mechanic manage it?

Hoping I don't have to trailer it to a TVR specialist that's all.

[nawarne]

The Red Baron said:

Update: the squealing belt broke and the alternator hasn't been charging the battery. Made it home fortunately.

Is it an easy DIY job,or best left to a pro? If not a home job, could any reasonable mechanic manage it?

Hoping I don't have to trailer it to a TVR specialist that's all.

It's a very easy job - - if you've ever used a spanner.
- Remove both parts of the airbox, noting all the electrical and hose connections.

- Alternator plainly visible now. Slacken mounting bolts and the tensioning bolt on the curved, slotted bracket.
- Push alternator down. This will allow you to remove old belt entirely. New belt slips over ribbed pulleys on lower jack shaft and pulley on alternator itself. Ensure ribs on belt mate with grooves on pulleys.
- Tension belt and nip-up all bolts. Because it's such a short belt, it is hard to get enough tension on belt. I use some 2x1 timber to lever alternator 'up' ,,,and tighten adjustment bolt with other hand!

Hope that's OK. Nick

[NCE 61]

There is always the turnbuckle solution as in this topic https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[The Red Baron]

Thank you nawarne and others for your useful advice.

I'll get the airbox off and take a look, but it doesn't sound too difficult to do......