Tuscan speedo sensor removal - any knack to it?

[porterpainter]

I took the Tuscan out this evening for the first time since Donington to head to my regional club meet.

After about 5 mins of driving, and just about having got through the usual warm up routine, I noticed the car was really juddery under mild acceleration.

Decided to stop and have a look around the car in case it was anything physical, and while it was idling Diagnostic Code L popped up on the dash.

A quick search revealed this is a speed sensor error, and it likely needs a clean. As per some other posts on those threads, the car seemed ok when accelerating harder or at higher revs.

My attempts to remove the speed sensor were unfortunately a failure! I could remove the securing nut, but I was unable to remove the sensor.

I can see the sensor itself is threaded, and unscrewing it a bit seemed to give some play…but I got to the point where the sensor’s wire was giving quite a lot of resistance through being twisted and I couldn’t get the sensor free to clean it.

I thought it was better to stop and check with the more knowledgeable folks on PH rather than keep unscrewing and potentially damaging the wire and sensor. Should I just persist more with the twisted wire or should I be doing something else?

Thanks for any help
Andy

[porterpainter]

Can anyone assist? Thanks

[JimmyZZ]

Hello Andy

You should be able to pull a little extra cable out of the boot.
However - I am afraid that cleaning will not solve the problem, and if, not for long.
It won't solve any engine problem anyway, it is just for the function of the speedo and not involved in engine management.
If your speedo doesn't work it is the culprit.
These sensors die regularly after a few years and need to be replaced.
Hope this helps a little.

[porterpainter]

Thanks for the feedback Jimmy, I appreciate the help.

[nawarne]

Poor power delivery/slight misfire at low'ish rpm (2000-3000 rpm) usually indicates:
1) Failing coil-pack - easy job to replace ~ £100.
2) Failing HT leads. - easy enough to do once you've got the cover off the valley that the leads run in.

For peace of mind....I'd replace both once you're in there!
Might be worth running the diagnostics?

Nick

[porterpainter]

Thanks for the post Nick. Feels like it's work trying to change the leads and the coil.

I do have the cable somewhere for the diagnostics but I've never actually tried to use it. Seems now is as good a time as any to try

Cheers
Andy

[s6boy]

I've had the code L off and on for years now when coming to a stop but it always goes as soon as moving again. You could call it erratic.
If you can drive through the judder ie ease off the throttle then gently back on, once past 3500 rpm if it runs smoothly I'd agree the most likely cause are the coil pack and leads. I remember reading on here years ago someone describing them as a consumable to change at service time, but think the newer leads are more resistant to heat than the originals as I'm only on the 3rd set.

[nawarne]

porterpainter said:

Thanks for the post Nick. Feels like it's work trying to change the leads and the coil.

I do have the cable somewhere for the diagnostics but I've never actually tried to use it. Seems now is as good a time as any to try

Cheers
Andy

Andy, yes, coil pack located under air-box - so, remove both halves for access.
If you change HT leads (2 x capscrews to remove alloy cover) remember that leads to 4 and 6 cylinders are swapped round versus the numbering on the coilpack..
Nick

[porterpainter]

s6boy said:

I've had the code L off and on for years now when coming to a stop but it always goes as soon as moving again. You could call it erratic.
If you can drive through the judder ie ease off the throttle then gently back on, once past 3500 rpm if it runs smoothly I'd agree the most likely cause are the coil pack and leads. I remember reading on here years ago someone describing them as a consumable to change at service time, but think the newer leads are more resistant to heat than the originals as I'm only on the 3rd set.

nawarne said:

Andy, yes, coil pack located under air-box - so, remove both halves for access.
If you change HT leads (2 x capscrews to remove alloy cover) remember that leads to 4 and 6 cylinders are swapped round versus the numbering on the coilpack..
Nick

Thanks for your input guys. I've got the coil and leads on order now from Motorclan so will be a job for a rainy day. Will keep an eye on the numbering, thanks for the tip!

Cheers
Andy