Oxygen sensor - NGK OTD2F-3K1 to replace ERR6729
Discussion
First of all my thanks to Zener at the following post for recommending this oxygen sensor and to Jools at Kits and Classics for recommending I use the TVR Diagnostics software (I think this is the website https://tvrtuscan.info/downloads) to inspect the sensor characteristics. I have used the MBE Tool but the scope on the TVR software gives better resolution.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
My car initially struggled to start after a battery change. I keep my car (4L mk1 2000) on a battery tender, all the lights were nice and green, but when I turned the key after a winter lay up, nothing, and the charger had dropped into the red so all I can think was that a cell had gone within the battery. New battery and the car turned over but was lumpy for a while until things evened out. Jools suggested this was perhaps down to a dying Dallas chip in the ECU.
Anyway, car drives OK but I thought I'd check out the original TVR Diagnostics that Jools had mentioned over the phone. I had to use a virtual machine to run Windows 8 on my 64 bit laptop using VMWare which took a bit of time to sort out but I got there and managed to get my ECU cable up and running. Remember to use or map COM1 for the USB part of the cable.
Using this cable showed that I had a lazy-ish lambda 2. The car ran fine but I thought I'd sort it out and maybe improve mpg a smidge.
So I bought the oxygen sensor NGK OTD2F-3K1 and a 17mm crows foot spanner to fit a 3/8" drive. Wheel off and battery out to gain clear access.
The old sensor was wrapped in fibreglass which you could argue isn't good for heat dissipation. Luckily the crows foot did the job easily and it was a piece of cake to remove the sensor. I decided to keep the original connector and simply cut the new cable to a suitable length and cut off the connector from the old cable leaving about 5cm of wires to solder onto the new cable. Simple black to black, red-red and white-white connections. Refitted everything and the car started up fine.
No lazy response on lambda 2 and the adaptives are a touch better after a run to work and back. You can get cheaper oxygen sensors but I wanted to go with a quality genuine NTK one. Plus I don't mind soldering wiring.
Job done and I learn a bit more about the ECU, the software and oxygen sensors.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
My car initially struggled to start after a battery change. I keep my car (4L mk1 2000) on a battery tender, all the lights were nice and green, but when I turned the key after a winter lay up, nothing, and the charger had dropped into the red so all I can think was that a cell had gone within the battery. New battery and the car turned over but was lumpy for a while until things evened out. Jools suggested this was perhaps down to a dying Dallas chip in the ECU.
Anyway, car drives OK but I thought I'd check out the original TVR Diagnostics that Jools had mentioned over the phone. I had to use a virtual machine to run Windows 8 on my 64 bit laptop using VMWare which took a bit of time to sort out but I got there and managed to get my ECU cable up and running. Remember to use or map COM1 for the USB part of the cable.
Using this cable showed that I had a lazy-ish lambda 2. The car ran fine but I thought I'd sort it out and maybe improve mpg a smidge.
So I bought the oxygen sensor NGK OTD2F-3K1 and a 17mm crows foot spanner to fit a 3/8" drive. Wheel off and battery out to gain clear access.
The old sensor was wrapped in fibreglass which you could argue isn't good for heat dissipation. Luckily the crows foot did the job easily and it was a piece of cake to remove the sensor. I decided to keep the original connector and simply cut the new cable to a suitable length and cut off the connector from the old cable leaving about 5cm of wires to solder onto the new cable. Simple black to black, red-red and white-white connections. Refitted everything and the car started up fine.
No lazy response on lambda 2 and the adaptives are a touch better after a run to work and back. You can get cheaper oxygen sensors but I wanted to go with a quality genuine NTK one. Plus I don't mind soldering wiring.
Job done and I learn a bit more about the ECU, the software and oxygen sensors.
Basil Brush said:
You might have an issue with heat if you've still got cats in. TVR modified the original 3 wire NTK early speed six sensors with a heat resistant wire separator inside as the standard NTK one could melt but the newer sensors may well be better.
No cats. I spoke with Central and Powers and they both recommend to keep de-catted if possible. I'll keep an eye on the performance of the lambdas now that I know what to look for.Gassing Station | Tuscan | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff