Febi 01483 Fuel pump relay - Right one?
Discussion
Hello. I have a Tuscan mk1 (2000) and am after a new fuel pump relay. My original is an Automega and I have tried two Febi 01483 relays with no luck. Each from different suppliers.
The Tuscan parts wiki and older posts suggest this is the replacement to use. Each time I put back my original relay the pump works.
Pictures enclosed of the Febi alongside my original.


Am I buying the right relay? I can’t find any alternative Automega relays on the internet that don’t point back to the Febi.
Close inspection of the blades of the Febi shows that they’ve made contact with the socket of the fuse board ok and I can see contact marks on each blade. However I will see if the are any slight dimension differences between the two but at the moment nothing obvious.
I’m a bit stuck as I’d like to rule the relay out with a hot-car-cutting-out problem.
The Tuscan parts wiki and older posts suggest this is the replacement to use. Each time I put back my original relay the pump works.
Pictures enclosed of the Febi alongside my original.


Am I buying the right relay? I can’t find any alternative Automega relays on the internet that don’t point back to the Febi.
Close inspection of the blades of the Febi shows that they’ve made contact with the socket of the fuse board ok and I can see contact marks on each blade. However I will see if the are any slight dimension differences between the two but at the moment nothing obvious.
I’m a bit stuck as I’d like to rule the relay out with a hot-car-cutting-out problem.
To update this thread.
Tried the Febi relays again and this time one worked. The other is still a dud and I've returned it. The working one I've taken in and out a few times and driven 30 miles through traffic with so it's good.
I'll also bought a backup one which was a different make in case the Febi part didn't work for some reason. It's a UNIPART GTM4005 and that works fine too.
So a good spare just in case. I'm going to say this issue is sorted.

Out of interest does anyone know how these 6-pin relays work? I never found a wiring diagram for these and it would be good to understand how they differ from the bog standard ones.
Tried the Febi relays again and this time one worked. The other is still a dud and I've returned it. The working one I've taken in and out a few times and driven 30 miles through traffic with so it's good.
I'll also bought a backup one which was a different make in case the Febi part didn't work for some reason. It's a UNIPART GTM4005 and that works fine too.
So a good spare just in case. I'm going to say this issue is sorted.

Out of interest does anyone know how these 6-pin relays work? I never found a wiring diagram for these and it would be good to understand how they differ from the bog standard ones.
Thanks for the wiring details!
I had a play this evening and checked that both coils energised OK and that the diode functionality worked too.
Found the fault! When messing around with pins 85 and 86, and applying 12V across them, I had intermittent energising of the coil (intermittent click). On closer inspection pin 86 was slightly loose and applying pressure towards the outside of the relay made it click with 12V applied across the pins.
So my hot-car-cutting-out problem was the relay getting warm with being energised over time and it braking contact internally. Let it cool off, waiting by the side of the road or waving the relay in the air, temporarily solved the problem and got me home.
Short clip of this fault uploaded at:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/R5e1-ICi9mU
(or look for TVR Tuscan faulty 6 pin fuel pump relay)
By the way, why are two coils needed for this fuelling system? I presume the diode protected coil goes to the ECU but I'm not sure on the rest of the connections and where the second feed/signal comes from.
I had a play this evening and checked that both coils energised OK and that the diode functionality worked too.
Found the fault! When messing around with pins 85 and 86, and applying 12V across them, I had intermittent energising of the coil (intermittent click). On closer inspection pin 86 was slightly loose and applying pressure towards the outside of the relay made it click with 12V applied across the pins.
So my hot-car-cutting-out problem was the relay getting warm with being energised over time and it braking contact internally. Let it cool off, waiting by the side of the road or waving the relay in the air, temporarily solved the problem and got me home.
Short clip of this fault uploaded at:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/R5e1-ICi9mU
(or look for TVR Tuscan faulty 6 pin fuel pump relay)
By the way, why are two coils needed for this fuelling system? I presume the diode protected coil goes to the ECU but I'm not sure on the rest of the connections and where the second feed/signal comes from.
Dalamar said:
Found the fault! When messing around with pins 85 and 86, and applying 12V across them, I had intermittent energising of the coil (intermittent click). On closer inspection pin 86 was slightly loose and applying pressure towards the outside of the relay made it click with 12V applied across the pins.
If you are careful with a sharp knife, you can probably ease the case off the faulty relay and see if it's anything you can sort - then keep it in the car as a spare.Dalamar said:
By the way, why are two coils needed for this fuelling system? I presume the diode protected coil goes to the ECU but I'm not sure on the rest of the connections and where the second feed/signal comes from.
Just a guess - the right hand relay coil (from the pic / schematic) above is probably the 3 sec priming pulse - takes a feed from the ECU at switch on, applies power to the left hand relay to power the pump, then switches off after 3(?) seconds. Once the car has started, the left hand relay is energised (how? from the alternator output? ECU again?) and continues to power the fuel pump whilst the engine is running. Like I say, just a guess.S6PNJ said:
Dalamar said:
Found the fault! When messing around with pins 85 and 86, and applying 12V across them, I had intermittent energising of the coil (intermittent click). On closer inspection pin 86 was slightly loose and applying pressure towards the outside of the relay made it click with 12V applied across the pins.
If you are careful with a sharp knife, you can probably ease the case off the faulty relay and see if it's anything you can sort - then keep it in the car as a spare.Dalamar said:
By the way, why are two coils needed for this fuelling system? I presume the diode protected coil goes to the ECU but I'm not sure on the rest of the connections and where the second feed/signal comes from.
Just a guess - the right hand relay coil (from the pic / schematic) above is probably the 3 sec priming pulse - takes a feed from the ECU at switch on, applies power to the left hand relay to power the pump, then switches off after 3(?) seconds. Once the car has started, the left hand relay is energised (how? from the alternator output? ECU again?) and continues to power the fuel pump whilst the engine is running. Like I say, just a guess.
I've probably done this topic to death now but for those who are interested in what makes up one of these 6 pin relays here's some more info. I've never opened one of them before so pics below. The relay unit closest to the pins is the one that has a diode across 85 and 86.


A close up shows pin 86 with a poor solder joint from new. There is a bucket surrounding the pin connecting to the PCB, maybe due to not getting the pin hot enough for a good joint to the PCB. I could just about see it move giving it a good wiggle.

After re-soldering. No more problem and a good spare just in case!

Thanks everyone for your help and comments.


A close up shows pin 86 with a poor solder joint from new. There is a bucket surrounding the pin connecting to the PCB, maybe due to not getting the pin hot enough for a good joint to the PCB. I could just about see it move giving it a good wiggle.

After re-soldering. No more problem and a good spare just in case!

Thanks everyone for your help and comments.
Have you seen this thread: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... ? I haven't read it closely enough to see if it is totally relevant, but there might be some useful info in it.
Dalamar said:
I've probably done this topic to death now but for those who are interested in what makes up one of these 6 pin relays here's some more info. I've never opened one of them before so pics below. The relay unit closest to the pins is the one that has a diode across 85 and 86.


A close up shows pin 86 with a poor solder joint from new. There is a bucket surrounding the pin connecting to the PCB, maybe due to not getting the pin hot enough for a good joint to the PCB. I could just about see it move giving it a good wiggle.

After re-soldering. No more problem and a good spare just in case!

Thanks everyone for your help and comments.
Not that I have looked at a Tuscan diagram ...Dalamar...is it possible to send an end on picture of the pins that can be related to the pictorial that Phillpot posted (I am hoping that they are numbered) to suit. (I do not have a car with this relay, but I am assuming at this moment that like the 5 pin relay it is striking up the fuel pump and Lambda heaters separately). A@

A close up shows pin 86 with a poor solder joint from new. There is a bucket surrounding the pin connecting to the PCB, maybe due to not getting the pin hot enough for a good joint to the PCB. I could just about see it move giving it a good wiggle.

After re-soldering. No more problem and a good spare just in case!

Thanks everyone for your help and comments.
Thanks ..(as Stewart said I am looking at the 5 pin relay) on the Febi I was looking for single digits with the related numbers (the white base on that pictured relay looks to have the single digit numbers ) that I then did not see the relay numbers (sad)...That is a twin coil/twin resistor and a diode on one coil (busy in there! related to expensive back then) 15A (perhaps each on the two outputs) as I said for the 5 pin and presume here, fuel pump and Lambda heaters. I will look through the Tuscan diagram (maybe Cerbera) when I have time, to work out the evolution of the inertia switch which is no longer on my pump feed (and because the Tamora can come with a 6 pin relay). A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Wednesday 16th November 22:04
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