Passenger window not moving: new encoder needed?

[bobsavage789]

Hello fellow Tuscaneers,

My passenger side window hasn’t been going back up after closing the door. I recently tried to fix this, so took off the door card, found the encoder and checked its connection. The encoder PCB is covered in a sort of sealant, so I couldn’t do much with it.

After this initial incursion, the window doesn’t move at all.

I’ve checked fuses (both work in the driver’s door slot), and the window switch lights up, but there’s nothing from the window motor. The door latch mechanism works fine.

Before I go ahead and order a new encoder, is there anything else I should be looking at (bear in mind my level of expertise, which I’d describe as ‘enthusiastic amateur’)?

[S6PNJ]

Check the micro switch in the door lock mechanism (body side, not door side). From memory, there are 3(2?) small Philips screws holding the cover in place - make sure the micro switch is operating when the door is closed as this then signals the window to move up.

[Sagi Badger]

Ummhhh, so first problem is a "no door closed signal not at ECU or ECU not responding to door closed", the micro switch is part of this, but you would see a signal on the dash if not signalling, but the fact that removing the door card has now caused another problem to surface suggests that removing the door card jiggled a connection... so without being there with test meter in hand I would sniff around the door harness multipin connector that feeds everything between door and A post, I had one that was intermittent and failed eventually with window stuck up door open, then I found it, the connector needed to be cleaned with contact cleaner and twisted securely to lock the bayonets, suspect it had been loose since leaving the factory. Then check the encoder connections, if removed is it physically back in the right place?

The ECU's are notorious for having poorly soldered connectors, so once you have window moving on the rotary switch try swapping ECUs over and see if you get the function back.

The current in these circuits is very low so the connectors need to be clean, good luck I have spent hours chasing faults that go then come back.

J

[porterpainter]

You could try swapping the encoder and the ecu from the other door (one at a time) to see which has failed.

I had it where my window went down but would go up (first halfway, then the rest of the way down). It needed a replace encoder to fix.

[bobsavage789]

S6PNJ said:

Check the micro switch in the door lock mechanism (body side, not door side). From memory, there are 3(2?) small Philips screws holding the cover in place - make sure the micro switch is operating when the door is closed as this then signals the window to move up.

The door release seems to work absolutely fine: it’s only the top of the window getting caught on the A pillar that means I can’t open the door.

[bobsavage789]

Sagi Badger said:

Ummhhh, so first problem is a "no door closed signal not at ECU or ECU not responding to door closed", the micro switch is part of this, but you would see a signal on the dash if not signalling, but the fact that removing the door card has now caused another problem to surface suggests that removing the door card jiggled a connection... so without being there with test meter in hand I would sniff around the door harness multipin connector that feeds everything between door and A post, I had one that was intermittent and failed eventually with window stuck up door open, then I found it, the connector needed to be cleaned with contact cleaner and twisted securely to lock the bayonets, suspect it had been loose since leaving the factory. Then check the encoder connections, if removed is it physically back in the right place?

The ECU's are notorious for having poorly soldered connectors, so once you have window moving on the rotary switch try swapping ECUs over and see if you get the function back.

The current in these circuits is very low so the connectors need to be clean, good luck I have spent hours chasing faults that go then come back.

J

Thanks for this: I’ll have a nosey around the body/door connections. From memory, this appeared to be just a bunch of wires: is there a connector somewhere as well?

Am I right in saying the door ECUs are in the tunnel somewhere? If so, is the trim as straightforward as appears to remove and put back?

[bobsavage789]

porterpainter said:

You could try swapping the encoder and the ecu from the other door (one at a time) to see which has failed.

I had it where my window went down but would go up (first halfway, then the rest of the way down). It needed a replace encoder to fix.

Sounds like we had the exact same issue, except my window’s not moving at all now! That does sort of confirm my theory that I need a new encoder anyway, so I guess investigating the ECUs is my next step.

[Sagi Badger]

So, if the encoder has fallen over the window wouldn't move at all, I think anyway, you mention it did prior to removing the door card?

There is a fat arse multipin in the door jam leading edge, you will need to remove the door, bolts on hinges inside a pillar base, get some carpet and rags to protect everything and a helper to hold door and lift down, someone with half a brain as although not heavy or difficult paint can be chipped... All unless you can fix by swapping encoder over and if that fails then the ECUs (in tunnel forward of gear lever, [generally rammed in and squashed] trim screwed down centrally at back of tunnel) and if that fails a prodding session but the fault you describe seems to be two fold and worsened since you took the door card off and played with the encoder.

Do you get door open warning on dash pod?? Checks door micro switch in lock, if not start with a swap of encoders, then ECU then prod area at a time checking as you go, then deep breath and remove door.
J

[bobsavage789]

Sagi Badger said:

So, if the encoder has fallen over the window wouldn't move at all, I think anyway, you mention it did prior to removing the door card?

There is a fat arse multipin in the door jam leading edge, you will need to remove the door, bolts on hinges inside a pillar base, get some carpet and rags to protect everything and a helper to hold door and lift down, someone with half a brain as although not heavy or difficult paint can be chipped... All unless you can fix by swapping encoder over and if that fails then the ECUs (in tunnel forward of gear lever, [generally rammed in and squashed] trim screwed down centrally at back of tunnel) and if that fails a prodding session but the fault you describe seems to be two fold and worsened since you took the door card off and played with the encoder.

Do you get door open warning on dash pod?? Checks door micro switch in lock, if not start with a swap of encoders, then ECU then prod area at a time checking as you go, then deep breath and remove door.
J

Thanks you for the detailed instructions. I’m not sure I fancy taking the door off, especially as I have no one to help out! No messages on the binnacle; door latch seems fine.

The new encoder arrived today, so I’m hoping against hope that swapping it in will yield results. Otherwise, I may have to farm it out to someone who knows a bit more about what they’re doing!

Edited by bobsavage789 on Wednesday 20th July 13:38

[bobsavage789]

New encoder hasn’t worked, and swapping the door ECUs round also made no difference. I’ve booked it in to TorqueRVT next week, so I’m hoping it’s a simple fix for someone more skilled than I!

I’ll report back.

[porterpainter]

Sorry to hear it didn’t work. It was Ian that sorted mine last year, so I’m sure he’ll get yours fixed too

[bobsavage789]

Update:

Ian had a look today, and the problem is that the electrics within the door (including the micro switch in the door latch mechanism) aren’t getting any current for some reason.

They supposed it’d be a quick/easy fix before they took a look. Alas, that isn’t the case…

I’ve to book it in for a full job, but TorqueRVT are so busy that it’ll have to be late August and probably many hours of labour to find the issue…

I’m seriously wobbling on TVR ownership…

[S6PNJ]

Multipin connector from door to body near the hinges? Or has this already been suggested. I've never detached mine, they look like a real pig to get a good grip on, but I've also read that the door needs to be removed from its hinges to get it undone - sorry, possibly not an easy task but a clean up of the pins might sort it?

[porterpainter]

bobsavage789 said:

Update:

Ian had a look today, and the problem is that the electrics within the door (including the micro switch in the door latch mechanism) aren’t getting any current for some reason.

They supposed it’d be a quick/easy fix before they took a look. Alas, that isn’t the case…

I’ve to book it in for a full job, but TorqueRVT are so busy that it’ll have to be late August and probably many hours of labour to find the issue…

I’m seriously wobbling on TVR ownership…

Sorry to hear it’s not a simple one to fix. Ian and the team are very good so I’m sure it won’t be as much labour as you fear.

[Sagi Badger]

Ummhhh, I have on going fuse box woes... despite removing and cleaning every contact in the fuse box electrical gremlins are continuing to haunt me. I have read about another Tuscan owner with a fuse box issue (fuse boxes are Porsche so we can blame them for this) and it may well be that the cause of the OPs problem lies within, or on top of, the fuse box. The problems with access make this not a job to look forward to. The door multipin connector unplugging/cleaning is an equally unpleasant task with the risk of chipping paint raising the stakes.

I hope the fault is found soon but the headline for every T car owner is electrical gremlins can cause extended periods off the road and as our cars age this will be become more common.

[bobsavage789]

Just realised I never provided closure on this: apologies to those who must have been on tenterhooks…

It turns out one of the multipins going into the door had corroded so much that the actual pins had fallen off. It just so happens that this led to all power to the door being lost, hence the window not working at all.

£265 and a trip to Torque RVT, and all is well again… for now.