Discussion
Can’t get the car to start and have tried the following, It started on the 1st turn after being stored for 6 months. I drove it out of the garage and back in again no problem. I then jacket up the front off side to adjust a damper and then lowered it again. Went to move it back out the garage and it won’t fire. I have checked the following.
1. Fuel pump primes
2. Car turns over fine,
3. Checked the inertia switch and replaced it with a new one.
4. 12 volts read out and 12 litres in the tank.
5. Have removed and replaced fuel pump relay in order to mitigate flooding and also left for 1 week.
What haven’t I checked. What am I missing?
1. Fuel pump primes
2. Car turns over fine,
3. Checked the inertia switch and replaced it with a new one.
4. 12 volts read out and 12 litres in the tank.
5. Have removed and replaced fuel pump relay in order to mitigate flooding and also left for 1 week.
What haven’t I checked. What am I missing?
Have you got the diagnostics on a laptop? Would be worth hooking up and seeing what's happening whilst cranking engine
m4tti's comment re crank position sensor would be indicated as a 'fault code' in RED on EvoOli's programme.
When I had an "issue" with my engine I found the AFR (both 'banks') were also in fault mode. Engine cranked, but reluctant to fire. Later discovered to be caused by the set-up of the throttle cable/return spring not exerting enough return pressure so that the butterflies on all six were not going to a proper closed position. The flows on the syncrometer were very high....engine trying to run very rich. Adjusting clevis pin and hence degree of pressure that return spring was exerting on the butterfly spindle assemblies enabled me to properly get the throttle body airflows within the advised flow ranges for each cylinder.
Got to be worth a look - you may be able to infer something from the diagnostic information?
Nick
m4tti's comment re crank position sensor would be indicated as a 'fault code' in RED on EvoOli's programme.
When I had an "issue" with my engine I found the AFR (both 'banks') were also in fault mode. Engine cranked, but reluctant to fire. Later discovered to be caused by the set-up of the throttle cable/return spring not exerting enough return pressure so that the butterflies on all six were not going to a proper closed position. The flows on the syncrometer were very high....engine trying to run very rich. Adjusting clevis pin and hence degree of pressure that return spring was exerting on the butterfly spindle assemblies enabled me to properly get the throttle body airflows within the advised flow ranges for each cylinder.
Got to be worth a look - you may be able to infer something from the diagnostic information?
Nick
Thanks guys. Have found the old laptop and will plug into the ECU tomorrow. Odd that It was fine 1 hr before and never had any issues like this in +10 years. I also wonder if when I replaced the boot seal and used a small rubber hammer if the vibrations have done something. What I don’t know.
Curdster said:
Nick. Thanks, can I assume that the inertia switch shuts of the fuel pump and therefore if there was an issue with either the switch or connection the fuel pump wouldn’t prime?
...That is true. - - Prime function of inertia switch is to stop fuel pump running in the event of major shunt and engine still running....Cant remember if it cuts electrical supply to ecu as well though?? Anyone?However, still worthwhile going back to basics - check for spark - are plug(s) wet with fuel - investigate fuel reaching injectors.
Nick
Edited by nawarne on Monday 18th February 15:42
The software won’t really give you a magic solution unless you can see a crank sensor fault logged.
This is a very basic engine. There’s an order of operations in diagnosing why they won’t start, and that begins with establishing whether fuel is reaching the rail, then the cylinder, and you have.a strong spark. Once that’s clear you can move further on into looking at items like the ECU function.
Don’t immediately assume that fuel is getting to the engine because you can hear a whirring.
This is a very basic engine. There’s an order of operations in diagnosing why they won’t start, and that begins with establishing whether fuel is reaching the rail, then the cylinder, and you have.a strong spark. Once that’s clear you can move further on into looking at items like the ECU function.
Don’t immediately assume that fuel is getting to the engine because you can hear a whirring.
I've only just seen this but the symptoms are very similar to when my immobiliser failed. Everything had the appearance of being fine but the car wouldn't start. I have no idea however, how you can check if the immobiliser is functioning correctly. Might be worth a call to Dave at Meta alarms, I have his number if you get stuck, just an idea.
As said above, I would suspect the new inertia switch.
The number of reports on here which mention new parts fitted and car won't go, and then later turn out to be faulty new parts fitted.....
Either bridge it or refit the old one.
It takes a pretty hefty thump in a sideways direction to activate these inertia switches.
I have done it once in 41,000 miles of ownership - gravel trap, Mallory Park, sideways entry.
Potholes, being dropped rather clumsily off the jack, you name it, no effect.
The engine turned over fine immediately afterwards, just didn't fire.
I think I didn't hear the fuel pump, but cannot now remember.
After trying for 30 seconds I called my TVR guy who knew what had happened before I got to the end of the first sentence.
The number of reports on here which mention new parts fitted and car won't go, and then later turn out to be faulty new parts fitted.....
Either bridge it or refit the old one.
It takes a pretty hefty thump in a sideways direction to activate these inertia switches.
I have done it once in 41,000 miles of ownership - gravel trap, Mallory Park, sideways entry.
Potholes, being dropped rather clumsily off the jack, you name it, no effect.
The engine turned over fine immediately afterwards, just didn't fire.
I think I didn't hear the fuel pump, but cannot now remember.
After trying for 30 seconds I called my TVR guy who knew what had happened before I got to the end of the first sentence.
OK, I'd agree with m4tti that the diagnostic display is not a magic wand....but you have got a few things listed as "in fault" mode.
Are you able to clear all the 'RED' items by doing a fault reset? (somewhat confused as 'battery volts showing 12.31, yet battery voltage in fault mode - so should clear on a reset.)
I'm asking because when I had problems with my ECU, I had a similar display on diagnostics (not 100% sure, but maybe the crank sensor was also RED). At the time it would take several attempts to reset fault messages. In the end a 2nd hand ecu was fitted by Jason and car is fine now.
I would enlist the help of a mate and go through the checks mentioned whilst cranking the engine - fuel at injectors - spark at plugs - bridge across the inertia switch spade terminals....fresh petrol??? Observe readings on laptop whilst engine turning - do faults reappear as soon as engine is cranked?
Nick
Are you able to clear all the 'RED' items by doing a fault reset? (somewhat confused as 'battery volts showing 12.31, yet battery voltage in fault mode - so should clear on a reset.)
I'm asking because when I had problems with my ECU, I had a similar display on diagnostics (not 100% sure, but maybe the crank sensor was also RED). At the time it would take several attempts to reset fault messages. In the end a 2nd hand ecu was fitted by Jason and car is fine now.
I would enlist the help of a mate and go through the checks mentioned whilst cranking the engine - fuel at injectors - spark at plugs - bridge across the inertia switch spade terminals....fresh petrol??? Observe readings on laptop whilst engine turning - do faults reappear as soon as engine is cranked?
Nick
Edited by nawarne on Tuesday 19th February 09:45
Just to keep the thread updated as Matt is very kindly helping me off line.
Inertia switch removed and bridged and this has shown no issue. The inertia switch does in fact cut power to the fuel pump.
Fuel feed removed from the fuel rail and tested, showing that when the fuel pump primes it is delivering fuel to the fuel rail.
Next steps are to test the coil by removing an HT lead and spark plug to see if there is a spark. This will determine whether the coil is the next to be examined and/or the crank sensor.
Inertia switch removed and bridged and this has shown no issue. The inertia switch does in fact cut power to the fuel pump.
Fuel feed removed from the fuel rail and tested, showing that when the fuel pump primes it is delivering fuel to the fuel rail.
Next steps are to test the coil by removing an HT lead and spark plug to see if there is a spark. This will determine whether the coil is the next to be examined and/or the crank sensor.
So no progress with the problem but I have now;
Swapped the coil for a new one and still no spark.
Removed the immobiliser and had this certified as being fine.
Re checked all the fuses including the 2 not in the fuse box and again all fine.
Next its replacing the relays with fingers crossed
I figure that all the fault diagnosis will save some funds when this may have to go into Neil Garner TVR as I am frustratingly running out of options. .
Swapped the coil for a new one and still no spark.
Removed the immobiliser and had this certified as being fine.
Re checked all the fuses including the 2 not in the fuse box and again all fine.
Next its replacing the relays with fingers crossed
I figure that all the fault diagnosis will save some funds when this may have to go into Neil Garner TVR as I am frustratingly running out of options. .
Well you've found a problem. There's no point replacing random relays. Check the continuity from the coil pack connector to the ECU. Wiring diagrams from here may help but I can't open them on my works PC. http://www.mytuscan.co.uk/downloads.php. If wiring is good then its an ECU fault. Python Racing may be able to help.
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