Hot start issue

Hot start issue

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anonymous-user

Original Poster:

67 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
quotequote all

Car has just developed a hot start issue.
Car starts perfectly from cold. Run car for 15 mins return home, turn off go to start, starter will not turn engine . Struggles big time .

I have swapped the battery for a known good one, the one original on there is 1 year old anyway. Battery reads 12.6 at cold start. Dips to 10.5 under starter, filers up and goes to 14.1/14.3. Its a 12 month old upgraded starter motor.
I have run a solid earth battery negative terminal to engine and this is no better. Same symptoms good when cold wont budge when hot .



Any previous experience of this appreciated .




citizen smith

771 posts

194 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
quotequote all
Perhaps the internals of the starter motor are all gummed up.

I had this problem with a Griff years ago - quite embarrassing after re-fuelling at a petrol station. Hence, when I got home I took the starter motor apart and thoroughly cleaned it, the re-assembled and never had a problem again.

m4tti

5,474 posts

168 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
quotequote all
Have you earthed the starter directly David. I had all this. Seems even the slightest oxidisation caused hot start issues.

I even cleaned the starter mating face.

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

122 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
quotequote all
9.6 Volts is the cut off point for battery voltage during cranking, your battery voltage being 10.5 Volts during cranking points to your starter not drawing enough current and that could be caused by bad negative or positive leads, if the leads check ok then you definitely have a bad starter
Low starter current draw can be due to bad commutation (brushes to armature commutator) and temperature does make a difference with this fault

To check the leads - During cranking...

Check voltage drop between battery negative and starter body - Should be no more than 0.25 Volts

Check voltage drop between battery positive and starter solenoid positive terminal - Should be no more than 0.75 Volts

pcameron

101 posts

295 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
quotequote all
I had the exact same problem. TVR Power fixed it for me, I think the key thing was putting an uprated starter motor in.

Chim450

1,452 posts

274 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
quotequote all
If you’ve earthed directly from battery to engine and it is still playing up, then my money is on a knackered starter motor.

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

67 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
quotequote all
All earth's checked. Battery checked on a drop meter. Alt checked. Starter motor ,9 months old checked all connected and we'll earthed. Alt is making volts. Battery is getting the volts. Starts cold will not crank hot. Big battery ,600 amp hours. 70 cold crank. Can starter motor have failed and I can't see it by visually examination ?

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

122 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
quotequote all
cliffords said:
All earth's checked. Battery checked on a drop meter. Alt checked. Starter motor ,9 months old checked all connected and we'll earthed. Alt is making volts. Battery is getting the volts. Starts cold will not crank hot. Big battery ,600 amp hours. 70 cold crank. Can starter motor have failed and I can't see it by visually examination ?
Do you mean you have the starter in bits to do a visual on it...that may cost you the warranty. You can't find a faulty armature or coils by looking at them, the armature needs growler testing

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

67 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
quotequote all
No, just took it off the car to look at .
I have refitted with an additional earth to chassis . Try again tomorrow it will start fine in the morning but lets see after 15 mins run.
Although I took lots apart today and cleaned lots of earthing points , I have not actually found anything wrong


Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

122 months

Sunday 22nd April 2018
quotequote all
Penelope Stopit said:
9.6 Volts is the cut off point for battery voltage during cranking, your battery voltage being 10.5 Volts during cranking points to your starter not drawing enough current and that could be caused by bad negative or positive leads, if the leads check ok then you definitely have a bad starter
Low starter current draw can be due to bad commutation (brushes to armature commutator) and temperature does make a difference with this fault

To check the leads - During cranking...

Check voltage drop between battery negative and starter body - Should be no more than 0.25 Volts

Check voltage drop between battery positive and starter solenoid positive terminal - Should be no more than 0.75 Volts
If you have checked the above when the starter is hot and failing and the results are within these values.....The starter motor is faulty

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

67 months

Sunday 22nd April 2018
quotequote all
Well I have discovered the problem it appears when hot there is a high resistance between the body of the starter and the engine. I have added an earth lead from one of the starter mounting bolts directly to the chassis and the car starts perfectly even when hot

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

122 months

Sunday 22nd April 2018
quotequote all
Nice find