Blower Fan Working Intermittently
Discussion
OK, suspect a bit of dampness into heater blower motor.
You need to jack car up at front N/S, remove F/N/S wheel and battery splash cover.
Remove battery, remember to have keys in pocket!
On the outer skin of the battery compartment you'll see a grp hatch that is probably siliconed in position - might have a couple of self tappers as well. When you remove said hatch you'll be able to see the motor located in the cavity formed by the inner and outer wing.
I believe that what happens in wet road conditions is that spray and standing water gets thrown onto the front/grill of the car, which then finds its way rearwards to the blower motor. Ideally, there should be a baffle/gauze/weir to prevent any water reaching the motor.
I liberally sprayed the black plastic motor case visible in the cavity with a proprietary water displacer/lubricant. In fact you can see the (small)grille for the motor (self)cooling fan when you look closely at the motor. I squirted my 'stuff' in to the grille slots. I also cleaned up the 2-wire connectors.
Another 'tip' is to slide some curtain expanding wire up the two clear plastic drain pipes to ensure that there is not a collection of water in the 'hot-box' where the heater flap stepper motor is - the other pipe draining the cold-box with the a/c evaporator in side.
Your comment re: motor stopping under braking does seem to indicate some water 'sloshing' about
Hopefully, doing all the above will return normal operation!
Nick
You need to jack car up at front N/S, remove F/N/S wheel and battery splash cover.
Remove battery, remember to have keys in pocket!
On the outer skin of the battery compartment you'll see a grp hatch that is probably siliconed in position - might have a couple of self tappers as well. When you remove said hatch you'll be able to see the motor located in the cavity formed by the inner and outer wing.
I believe that what happens in wet road conditions is that spray and standing water gets thrown onto the front/grill of the car, which then finds its way rearwards to the blower motor. Ideally, there should be a baffle/gauze/weir to prevent any water reaching the motor.
I liberally sprayed the black plastic motor case visible in the cavity with a proprietary water displacer/lubricant. In fact you can see the (small)grille for the motor (self)cooling fan when you look closely at the motor. I squirted my 'stuff' in to the grille slots. I also cleaned up the 2-wire connectors.
Another 'tip' is to slide some curtain expanding wire up the two clear plastic drain pipes to ensure that there is not a collection of water in the 'hot-box' where the heater flap stepper motor is - the other pipe draining the cold-box with the a/c evaporator in side.
Your comment re: motor stopping under braking does seem to indicate some water 'sloshing' about
Hopefully, doing all the above will return normal operation!
Nick
Edited by nawarne on Tuesday 11th February 16:41
nawarne said:
OK, suspect a bit of dampness into heater blower motor.
You need to jack car up at front N/S, remove F/N/S wheel and battery splash cover.
Remove battery, remember to have keys in pocket!
On the outer skin of the battery compartment you'll see a grp hatch that is probably siliconed in position - might have a couple of self tappers as well. When you remove said hatch you'll be able to see the motor located in the cavity formed by the inner and outer wing.
I believe that what happens in wet road conditions is that spray and standing water gets thrown onto the front/grill of the car, which then finds its way rearwards to the blower motor. Ideally, there should be a baffle/gauze/weir to prevent any water reaching the motor.
I liberally sprayed the black plastic motor case visible in the cavity with a proprietary water displacer/lubricant. In fact you can see the (small)grille for the motor (self)cooling fan when you look closely at the motor. I squirted my 'stuff' in to the grille slots. I also cleaned up the 2-wire connectors.
Another 'tip' is to slide some curtain expanding wire up the two clear plastic drain pipes to ensure that there is not a collection of water in the 'hot-box' where the heater flap stepper motor is - the other pipe draining the cold-box with the a/c evaporator in side.
Your comment re: motor stopping under braking does seem to indicate some water 'sloshing' about
Hopefully, doing all the above will return normal operation!
Nick
Many thanks, will give your suggested remedy a try!You need to jack car up at front N/S, remove F/N/S wheel and battery splash cover.
Remove battery, remember to have keys in pocket!
On the outer skin of the battery compartment you'll see a grp hatch that is probably siliconed in position - might have a couple of self tappers as well. When you remove said hatch you'll be able to see the motor located in the cavity formed by the inner and outer wing.
I believe that what happens in wet road conditions is that spray and standing water gets thrown onto the front/grill of the car, which then finds its way rearwards to the blower motor. Ideally, there should be a baffle/gauze/weir to prevent any water reaching the motor.
I liberally sprayed the black plastic motor case visible in the cavity with a proprietary water displacer/lubricant. In fact you can see the (small)grille for the motor (self)cooling fan when you look closely at the motor. I squirted my 'stuff' in to the grille slots. I also cleaned up the 2-wire connectors.
Another 'tip' is to slide some curtain expanding wire up the two clear plastic drain pipes to ensure that there is not a collection of water in the 'hot-box' where the heater flap stepper motor is - the other pipe draining the cold-box with the a/c evaporator in side.
Your comment re: motor stopping under braking does seem to indicate some water 'sloshing' about
Hopefully, doing all the above will return normal operation!
Nick
Edited by nawarne on Tuesday 11th February 16:41
It may be the heater ecu (black box) under the passenger side dashboard, the guy on the link below repaired mine. one of the pins had burnt out on the plug and the fan was only working intermittently.
http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/repairs.html
http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/repairs.html
nawarne said:
OK, suspect a bit of dampness into heater blower motor.
You need to jack car up at front N/S, remove F/N/S wheel and battery splash cover.
Remove battery, remember to have keys in pocket!
On the outer skin of the battery compartment you'll see a grp hatch that is probably siliconed in position - might have a couple of self tappers as well. When you remove said hatch you'll be able to see the motor located in the cavity formed by the inner and outer wing.
I believe that what happens in wet road conditions is that spray and standing water gets thrown onto the front/grill of the car, which then finds its way rearwards to the blower motor. Ideally, there should be a baffle/gauze/weir to prevent any water reaching the motor.
I liberally sprayed the black plastic motor case visible in the cavity with a proprietary water displacer/lubricant. In fact you can see the (small)grille for the motor (self)cooling fan when you look closely at the motor. I squirted my 'stuff' in to the grille slots. I also cleaned up the 2-wire connectors.
Another 'tip' is to slide some curtain expanding wire up the two clear plastic drain pipes to ensure that there is not a collection of water in the 'hot-box' where the heater flap stepper motor is - the other pipe draining the cold-box with the a/c evaporator in side.
Your comment re: motor stopping under braking does seem to indicate some water 'sloshing' about
Hopefully, doing all the above will return normal operation!
Nick
Blimey! that's such a wonderful descriptive explanation. I've often wondered where the blower was. Any ideas why my drivers side window don't always drop down past the roof even though the door opens off the latch? sorry for hijacking the post,but you sound like you know TVR's a bit.You need to jack car up at front N/S, remove F/N/S wheel and battery splash cover.
Remove battery, remember to have keys in pocket!
On the outer skin of the battery compartment you'll see a grp hatch that is probably siliconed in position - might have a couple of self tappers as well. When you remove said hatch you'll be able to see the motor located in the cavity formed by the inner and outer wing.
I believe that what happens in wet road conditions is that spray and standing water gets thrown onto the front/grill of the car, which then finds its way rearwards to the blower motor. Ideally, there should be a baffle/gauze/weir to prevent any water reaching the motor.
I liberally sprayed the black plastic motor case visible in the cavity with a proprietary water displacer/lubricant. In fact you can see the (small)grille for the motor (self)cooling fan when you look closely at the motor. I squirted my 'stuff' in to the grille slots. I also cleaned up the 2-wire connectors.
Another 'tip' is to slide some curtain expanding wire up the two clear plastic drain pipes to ensure that there is not a collection of water in the 'hot-box' where the heater flap stepper motor is - the other pipe draining the cold-box with the a/c evaporator in side.
Your comment re: motor stopping under braking does seem to indicate some water 'sloshing' about
Hopefully, doing all the above will return normal operation!
Nick
Edited by nawarne on Tuesday 11th February 16:41
Ta in advance...Dave
Vahalla: No - I'm not a Tuscan 'guru', just someone who's experienced this problem. Luckily, when I bought the car, I got Graham Varley's 'Bible' and found that his guides were also relevant to the Tuscan - in parts. Reasoned that the heater blower would also be in the same place on a Tuscan as well as the Sagaris.
The O/P's problems seemed similar to mine - and my explanation is what I did to cure it.
Marco - It could be the heater ecu. However, I believe that if the ecu is at fault, this is manifested by blackening/evidence of overheating on the ecu pins...so fairly easy to spot. Your right though, Paul Smith is a v.helpful guy - sent my mirror 'joystick' pad and ecu to him for repair recently - excellent service in <1 week.
Nick
The O/P's problems seemed similar to mine - and my explanation is what I did to cure it.
Marco - It could be the heater ecu. However, I believe that if the ecu is at fault, this is manifested by blackening/evidence of overheating on the ecu pins...so fairly easy to spot. Your right though, Paul Smith is a v.helpful guy - sent my mirror 'joystick' pad and ecu to him for repair recently - excellent service in <1 week.
Nick
Dave/Valhalla,
Forgot to comment on your driver's door window - Doh!
My suggestion to cure this is: Remove door card (2 or 3 c/sunk allen screws in bottom of pocket) - and lift door card out. Remove vapour barrier - sheet rubber glued to inner structure of door.
You now need to close door-lock using a screwdriver which causes window to lift to closed position.
Looking at the top of the widow lift motor, you'll see a small PCB held onto the motor with a small phillips head machine screw. There a 3 wires coming from the PCB to a plug - you need to un-plug here!
You should now have a small PCB (about 15mm x 35mm) that can lift off the gearbox of the window lift motor.
You can either dry the PCB out using a hair dryer or leave it in the airing cupboard overnight...bottom line is to ensure its totally DRY. Mine had been clear siliconed, but still suffered water ingress.
Re-assemble - reverse of above, and you should have normal operation. On my pass. side I peeled off the silicone and once dried out, as above, re-assembled and put a good coating of Vaseline on.
If the problem persists, the PCB has suffered damage and you'll need to buy a new one. They are about £40 + VAT from usual parts people (called window encoders).
I'm sure some folks on here will say to check the window ECU's (under centre console behind ashtray), but my feeling is that the window is trying to drop to a 'door open' position.....it doesn't know where that is. The encoder is just an electronic counter, measuring how far the window "should" drop for a door open command.....Phew
Nick
Forgot to comment on your driver's door window - Doh!
My suggestion to cure this is: Remove door card (2 or 3 c/sunk allen screws in bottom of pocket) - and lift door card out. Remove vapour barrier - sheet rubber glued to inner structure of door.
You now need to close door-lock using a screwdriver which causes window to lift to closed position.
Looking at the top of the widow lift motor, you'll see a small PCB held onto the motor with a small phillips head machine screw. There a 3 wires coming from the PCB to a plug - you need to un-plug here!
You should now have a small PCB (about 15mm x 35mm) that can lift off the gearbox of the window lift motor.
You can either dry the PCB out using a hair dryer or leave it in the airing cupboard overnight...bottom line is to ensure its totally DRY. Mine had been clear siliconed, but still suffered water ingress.
Re-assemble - reverse of above, and you should have normal operation. On my pass. side I peeled off the silicone and once dried out, as above, re-assembled and put a good coating of Vaseline on.
If the problem persists, the PCB has suffered damage and you'll need to buy a new one. They are about £40 + VAT from usual parts people (called window encoders).
I'm sure some folks on here will say to check the window ECU's (under centre console behind ashtray), but my feeling is that the window is trying to drop to a 'door open' position.....it doesn't know where that is. The encoder is just an electronic counter, measuring how far the window "should" drop for a door open command.....Phew
Nick
nawarne said:
Vahalla: No - I'm not a Tuscan 'guru', just someone who's experienced this problem. Luckily, when I bought the car, I got Graham Varley's 'Bible' and found that his guides were also relevant to the Tuscan - in parts. Reasoned that the heater blower would also be in the same place on a Tuscan as well as the Sagaris.
The O/P's problems seemed similar to mine - and my explanation is what I did to cure it.
Marco - It could be the heater ecu. However, I believe that if the ecu is at fault, this is manifested by blackening/evidence of overheating on the ecu pins...so fairly easy to spot. Your right though, Paul Smith is a v.helpful guy - sent my mirror 'joystick' pad and ecu to him for repair recently - excellent service in <1 week.
Nick
The ecu pins appear fine so I'll have to check the heater blower itself.The O/P's problems seemed similar to mine - and my explanation is what I did to cure it.
Marco - It could be the heater ecu. However, I believe that if the ecu is at fault, this is manifested by blackening/evidence of overheating on the ecu pins...so fairly easy to spot. Your right though, Paul Smith is a v.helpful guy - sent my mirror 'joystick' pad and ecu to him for repair recently - excellent service in <1 week.
Nick
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