hard to restart
Discussion
Not had the Tuscan long. But is there anything I should look into with the following symptoms.
Starts first time from cold every time.
When throttle is depressed engine revs drop by about 100rpm or so before picking up. When the car is only just warm... 40-50C water temp, same sort of oil temp( it is cold in Scotland) If I stall it (its complicated getting it out of the garage) it can be a pain to restart. Lots of cranking, very light throttle needed to get it to catch.
I haven't yet but intend to hook up an old laptop to ecu, anything in particular I should be looking for?
Throttle bodies were done, but think that was a while ago. Crank sensor maybe? Exhaust is decatted, lambda maybe?
From warm she is a b
h to start so looking for any advice.
Starts first time from cold every time.
When throttle is depressed engine revs drop by about 100rpm or so before picking up. When the car is only just warm... 40-50C water temp, same sort of oil temp( it is cold in Scotland) If I stall it (its complicated getting it out of the garage) it can be a pain to restart. Lots of cranking, very light throttle needed to get it to catch.
I haven't yet but intend to hook up an old laptop to ecu, anything in particular I should be looking for?
Throttle bodies were done, but think that was a while ago. Crank sensor maybe? Exhaust is decatted, lambda maybe?
From warm she is a b
h to start so looking for any advice.Hi Tony
She runs very rich on idle so if you stall it appears to flood. I did it a few timestimes, best thing I found is go get a brew and come back in 5 mins it will start fine, in fact all my tvrs did/do this they hate to be flooded, not sure if it is the map or what. I had it on the lap top and all seemed fine. I tested both pots and they were perfect.
I think the idle speed is still a touch to low I was going to raise it more, ( it was 750rpm) when I got it. I would take it to about 1000 like my cerb make it nicer to pull away in so it does not try to stall.
I would adjust it at the throttle pedal oppose to the body's as it can be hard work, I spent a day with the lap top and syncrometer to gain 50 rpm mega sensitive, again the map???? Not sure
She runs very rich on idle so if you stall it appears to flood. I did it a few timestimes, best thing I found is go get a brew and come back in 5 mins it will start fine, in fact all my tvrs did/do this they hate to be flooded, not sure if it is the map or what. I had it on the lap top and all seemed fine. I tested both pots and they were perfect.
I think the idle speed is still a touch to low I was going to raise it more, ( it was 750rpm) when I got it. I would take it to about 1000 like my cerb make it nicer to pull away in so it does not try to stall.
I would adjust it at the throttle pedal oppose to the body's as it can be hard work, I spent a day with the lap top and syncrometer to gain 50 rpm mega sensitive, again the map???? Not sure
Edited by scotty_d on Sunday 22 December 17:12
Thought about this… didn't want to take up the slack on the pedal. So went for the idle adjuster on the throttle bodies.. single adjuster. No need for synchrometer etc… did take a while as I couldn't believe how sensitive it was but eventually got there with a few tweaks. Now all I have to do is remember to take the bonnet off again to refit the split pins in the air box…. (was fiddling) oh well. I can take the bonnet off myself but need a second set of arms to refit it.
How were those hinges meant to fit Scotty?
How were those hinges meant to fit Scotty?
Bit of an update and additional info.
Got the laptop on the ECU and looked for anything out of the ordinary - nothing really. Independent readings on throttle pots within a % or so. Lambdas seem to be working okay. Either 0v or 1.2 ish, independent readings on both.
Engine when warm will not idle at all now. Sits at 1000rpm fine for a few seconds and then drops down to 500-600rpm and stalls. Lots and lots of bangs and pops in exhaust. Does this when out on a drive too. Slowing down to a junction the engine won't keep running without my right foot on the throttle. Makes it a bit tricky at times.
Reading the manual on the S6 it seems to indicate the throttles may need balancing. Or possibly ignition problem? (thinking that as there are lots of pops and bangs so fuel isn't being ignited in one or more cylinders?)
May just order a synchrometer but then going to have problems setting it up as it won't sit at idle…
Any thoughts on what to try next?
Got the laptop on the ECU and looked for anything out of the ordinary - nothing really. Independent readings on throttle pots within a % or so. Lambdas seem to be working okay. Either 0v or 1.2 ish, independent readings on both.
Engine when warm will not idle at all now. Sits at 1000rpm fine for a few seconds and then drops down to 500-600rpm and stalls. Lots and lots of bangs and pops in exhaust. Does this when out on a drive too. Slowing down to a junction the engine won't keep running without my right foot on the throttle. Makes it a bit tricky at times.
Reading the manual on the S6 it seems to indicate the throttles may need balancing. Or possibly ignition problem? (thinking that as there are lots of pops and bangs so fuel isn't being ignited in one or more cylinders?)
May just order a synchrometer but then going to have problems setting it up as it won't sit at idle…
Any thoughts on what to try next?
Swiss Roll said:
Bit of an update and additional info.
Got the laptop on the ECU and looked for anything out of the ordinary - nothing really. Independent readings on throttle pots within a % or so. Lambdas seem to be working okay. Either 0v or 1.2 ish, independent readings on both.
Engine when warm will not idle at all now. Sits at 1000rpm fine for a few seconds and then drops down to 500-600rpm and stalls. Lots and lots of bangs and pops in exhaust. Does this when out on a drive too. Slowing down to a junction the engine won't keep running without my right foot on the throttle. Makes it a bit tricky at times.
Reading the manual on the S6 it seems to indicate the throttles may need balancing. Or possibly ignition problem? (thinking that as there are lots of pops and bangs so fuel isn't being ignited in one or more cylinders?)
May just order a synchrometer but then going to have problems setting it up as it won't sit at idle…
Any thoughts on what to try next?
When i adjusted the throttle body's i had the exact same i spent a good day trying to get it to even tick over again and only gained 50rpm extra in the end very frustrating . Adjusting at the pedal was my reason as it is soooo sensitive at the body's. Wish i was closer to give a hand, I had to keep bliping the throttle and adjust in tiny increments then put the car under load to test and let it settle and if need be adjust again. Got the laptop on the ECU and looked for anything out of the ordinary - nothing really. Independent readings on throttle pots within a % or so. Lambdas seem to be working okay. Either 0v or 1.2 ish, independent readings on both.
Engine when warm will not idle at all now. Sits at 1000rpm fine for a few seconds and then drops down to 500-600rpm and stalls. Lots and lots of bangs and pops in exhaust. Does this when out on a drive too. Slowing down to a junction the engine won't keep running without my right foot on the throttle. Makes it a bit tricky at times.
Reading the manual on the S6 it seems to indicate the throttles may need balancing. Or possibly ignition problem? (thinking that as there are lots of pops and bangs so fuel isn't being ignited in one or more cylinders?)
May just order a synchrometer but then going to have problems setting it up as it won't sit at idle…
Any thoughts on what to try next?
Yes reprograme the ecu eprom and best done on a rolling road, contact Nelly as that his occupation, when I first drove it from London I must have stalled about a dozen times and kangarooed out his street, 6 months with it I was getting there, not as smooth as Neill mind you after 8 years with it.
Yeah if I was keeping it I would lose a little top end for low down smoothness, one thing it will never be is slow....
Yeah if I was keeping it I would lose a little top end for low down smoothness, one thing it will never be is slow....
Swiss Roll said:
Bit of an update and additional info.
Got the laptop on the ECU and looked for anything out of the ordinary - nothing really. Independent readings on throttle pots within a % or so. Lambdas seem to be working okay. Either 0v or 1.2 ish, independent readings on both.
Engine when warm will not idle at all now. Sits at 1000rpm fine for a few seconds and then drops down to 500-600rpm and stalls. Lots and lots of bangs and pops in exhaust. Does this when out on a drive too. Slowing down to a junction the engine won't keep running without my right foot on the throttle. Makes it a bit tricky at times.
Reading the manual on the S6 it seems to indicate the throttles may need balancing. Or possibly ignition problem? (thinking that as there are lots of pops and bangs so fuel isn't being ignited in one or more cylinders?)
May just order a synchrometer but then going to have problems setting it up as it won't sit at idle…
Any thoughts on what to try next?
The adaptives would give a clue if balancing is due. But it seems so...Got the laptop on the ECU and looked for anything out of the ordinary - nothing really. Independent readings on throttle pots within a % or so. Lambdas seem to be working okay. Either 0v or 1.2 ish, independent readings on both.
Engine when warm will not idle at all now. Sits at 1000rpm fine for a few seconds and then drops down to 500-600rpm and stalls. Lots and lots of bangs and pops in exhaust. Does this when out on a drive too. Slowing down to a junction the engine won't keep running without my right foot on the throttle. Makes it a bit tricky at times.
Reading the manual on the S6 it seems to indicate the throttles may need balancing. Or possibly ignition problem? (thinking that as there are lots of pops and bangs so fuel isn't being ignited in one or more cylinders?)
May just order a synchrometer but then going to have problems setting it up as it won't sit at idle…
Any thoughts on what to try next?
From my experience adjusting the throttle bodies should bring the banks closer together, regarding the adaptives. I would assume that bank1 and bank2 differ a lot? The adaptives should be as close together as possible.
Some pics of diagnostics.
Engine off
Engine trying to keep running using right foot. Throttle 2 is 3% higher
adaptive maps for 123
adaptive maps for 456
have ordered myself a synchrometer and think I'll go down that route next time I'm home. Anything else obvious from those figures?
Engine off
Engine trying to keep running using right foot. Throttle 2 is 3% higher
adaptive maps for 123
adaptive maps for 456
have ordered myself a synchrometer and think I'll go down that route next time I'm home. Anything else obvious from those figures?
Edited by Swiss Roll on Thursday 9th January 15:15
Could be a lambda issue from those pics. Are they switching properly? Looks like you jump from a massive positive to a negative as the throttle increased.
Then again air leaks will cause lambda values to go silly. You need to try the carb cleaner trick above to rule that out, then start looking at voltages. I'd guess at lazy lambda sensor still.
Good luck!
Then again air leaks will cause lambda values to go silly. You need to try the carb cleaner trick above to rule that out, then start looking at voltages. I'd guess at lazy lambda sensor still.
Good luck!
Tony - I went through a painful learning process with them - in the end it got so bad (no idle at all and pops bangs through the throttle bodies) that I was ready to throw in the towel!
Then I got some expert advice (from Neil at Austec) and started from scratch (closed all the bodies and just opened them a tiny bit, but all the same) reset the throttles (with the engine running - NEVER KOEO I might add!) and everything fell into place with careful adjusting via the synchrometer.
It can be done, but I would urge you to get someone 'in the know' to show you how to do it for future reference.
Then I got some expert advice (from Neil at Austec) and started from scratch (closed all the bodies and just opened them a tiny bit, but all the same) reset the throttles (with the engine running - NEVER KOEO I might add!) and everything fell into place with careful adjusting via the synchrometer.
It can be done, but I would urge you to get someone 'in the know' to show you how to do it for future reference.
nelly1 said:
Tony - I went through a painful learning process with them - in the end it got so bad (no idle at all and pops bangs through the throttle bodies) that I was ready to throw in the towel!
Then I got some expert advice (from Neil at Austec) and started from scratch (closed all the bodies and just opened them a tiny bit, but all the same) reset the throttles (with the engine running - NEVER KOEO I might add!) and everything fell into place with careful adjusting via the synchrometer.
It can be done, but I would urge you to get someone 'in the know' to show you how to do it for future reference.
You drove that car like a god, my first 10 miles out London were a massive learning curve even after 2 prior tivs, it is a real Blackpool brute, I was getting there after 6 months Then I got some expert advice (from Neil at Austec) and started from scratch (closed all the bodies and just opened them a tiny bit, but all the same) reset the throttles (with the engine running - NEVER KOEO I might add!) and everything fell into place with careful adjusting via the synchrometer.
It can be done, but I would urge you to get someone 'in the know' to show you how to do it for future reference.
I did up the idle by 50 rpm after a 10 hour shift, it is a fine tuned machine.Gassing Station | Tuscan | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff