Discussion
Hi, yes I've got mine all apart at the mo! What is wrong with yours? does it click? if not then the nut behind the switch may have unwound itself a bit, but you will have to remove it to check this. You need to remove the top cowling off the clocks. Two screws either side and a gentle push backwards to remove it from the silver ally facia. It's glued in place.
Remove the connection on this cowling for the dash light led potentiometer, wiper potentiometer and the shift lights, to them totally remove the cowling.
I think you will need to remove the clock pcb's to get to the light switch. You may be able to undo the ally facia to move it to gain access to the hazard switch, but if not then the pcbs will have to come out.
If you have to do this then first unclip the big black connector to the dash. Then undo the 4 philips screws holding the first pcb in place, remove the ribbon connectors from the sides of the first pcb board for the light switch and the dash switch, and push the pcb away from the next one. There are 4 in total iirc and they are each held in place by little stainless bolts that seperate the pcbs and screw into each other (pictured below). Do this with all of them as above till you get to the main board with the gold clock/needle.
There are 4 philips headed bolts that hold this bit in place, undo these and the clocks can come out leaving just the ally dash in place with the perspex. The switch for the lights and dash selector/hazards is held in place by 3 more of the hex stainless bolt things and a philips screw. The gold knob comes off by undo'ing the grub screw in it and pulling it off.
Its all quite obvious when you do it, I'll post some pictures up soon.
Remove the connection on this cowling for the dash light led potentiometer, wiper potentiometer and the shift lights, to them totally remove the cowling.
I think you will need to remove the clock pcb's to get to the light switch. You may be able to undo the ally facia to move it to gain access to the hazard switch, but if not then the pcbs will have to come out.
If you have to do this then first unclip the big black connector to the dash. Then undo the 4 philips screws holding the first pcb in place, remove the ribbon connectors from the sides of the first pcb board for the light switch and the dash switch, and push the pcb away from the next one. There are 4 in total iirc and they are each held in place by little stainless bolts that seperate the pcbs and screw into each other (pictured below). Do this with all of them as above till you get to the main board with the gold clock/needle.
There are 4 philips headed bolts that hold this bit in place, undo these and the clocks can come out leaving just the ally dash in place with the perspex. The switch for the lights and dash selector/hazards is held in place by 3 more of the hex stainless bolt things and a philips screw. The gold knob comes off by undo'ing the grub screw in it and pulling it off.
Its all quite obvious when you do it, I'll post some pictures up soon.
Edited by Toady1 on Tuesday 9th April 21:31
tvrmallorca said:
hey, thanks........still having trouble and it looks like a major job to take it all apart....ouch..... do I dare to do this in Spain.mmmmmm
It really isn't that bad, it's just fiddly! And not easy in the uk's cold weather when you have to be very dextrous with the small screws!! I've taken some more pics for you and will post them in a bit. You should be able to remove just the switch without removing the rest of the pcbs and clocks.Rear of the hazard and dash display selector switch, held in by three screws, 2 of them being the 7mm hex shaped things that have the screws for the metal mounting plate in them which you will have to remove first, and one other philips head at the top. Be careful when removing them all as they have little nylon washers between the pcb and the ally dash.
You may have to undo the bolts (seen in the above pic) on the same side that hold in the clocks and pcbs to give it some clearance.
You may have to undo the bolts (seen in the above pic) on the same side that hold in the clocks and pcbs to give it some clearance.
Edited by Toady1 on Thursday 11th April 22:14
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