Porsch 911 996 Carrera 2 - Engine very tappy
Discussion
p4lny said:
On driving home last night i noticed that i had a slight tapping coming from the engine when at lows revs drove home about 1 mile nice and slowly. When i got back home i noticed the noise more it sounds like a machine gun when i rev the engine i check the oil on the dash and it says fine i also check by hand on the dipstick and again it is fine. When i started it this morning it sounded even louder has anyone got any ideas what it can be?
It could be a Knock sensor playing up, whats the mileage, age of car?.
sportsandclassic said:
If it sounds like a machine gun it may be a piston thats picked up when you rev it it will go louder.....but as previously said GO TO A PORSCHE SPECIALIST TO CHECK IT OVER ASAP.
Thanks
mike
Thanks
mike
I thought you'd be a good man to ask Mike , but I reckoned you'd be busy packing the duffel bag!! .. Bon Voyage
p4lny said:
come on guys this is my partners car and he's shitting an absolute brick about the prospect of a possible new engine.
Anyone with any idea's?
Thanks
Andy
Anyone with any idea's?
Thanks
Andy
Poss just got a bit of crap in the oil ways inside the hydraulic tappets (they do from time to time) check all the fluids are good then give it a good run down the M/Way at constant RPM (80/90 mph) ten miles then check agian.
I don't think the Variocam will be at fault they make a terrible noise from more inside the car at higher RPM on the change over cycle as the little metal shoe's wear on the plunger ends when they touch the timing chain.
I wouldn't worry whatever most Indies are good with these now and even worn variocam shoes should't be any more than £500 ish to sort out at worst.
Hope you get it sorted
Cheers
Matt
From this months 911 & Porsche World, 996 Buyers Guide:
A rough tick-over is usually the result of a fault in the two Variocam solenoids (about 450GBP to have replaced although sometimes its just a poor connection). Rattles from the back of the engine can be nothing more than worn idlers for the serpentine polyrib belt that drives the ancillaries such as the water pump and power steering pump.
Reading through this article the advice is only worry if you see any signs of cross contamination of the oil and coolant followed by excessive steam in the exhaust, otherwise I quote "it's all reasonablty plain sailing". If you have these signs, it's a fore warning of the collapse of one of the cylinder walls... but you will be pleased to hear ticking engines don't mention.
By the way, mine sometimes ticks on start-up after being standing a while. Hope that helps -
A rough tick-over is usually the result of a fault in the two Variocam solenoids (about 450GBP to have replaced although sometimes its just a poor connection). Rattles from the back of the engine can be nothing more than worn idlers for the serpentine polyrib belt that drives the ancillaries such as the water pump and power steering pump.
Reading through this article the advice is only worry if you see any signs of cross contamination of the oil and coolant followed by excessive steam in the exhaust, otherwise I quote "it's all reasonablty plain sailing". If you have these signs, it's a fore warning of the collapse of one of the cylinder walls... but you will be pleased to hear ticking engines don't mention.
By the way, mine sometimes ticks on start-up after being standing a while. Hope that helps -
P4LNY said:
B15TT0 said:
what car's your partner got? - i thought it was the GT2 at first.
on another point - does he know about your Mrs?
on another point - does he know about your Mrs?
Gt3 kitted carrera 2
What about the Mrs
"come on guys this is my partners car and he's shitting an absolute brick"
On first reading I thought it was <ahem> your `partner's` car... and on checking your profile that you were the first gay GT2 owner i'd ever heard of!! sorry!!
£500 for Variocams ??? get real...why go to all the trouble of stripping the cam covers off and replacing the solenoid valve only ? the actual unit has a plunger and it gets all pitted and marked also the chain guide slipper on the end of the plunger will be absolutely destroyed....
Job costs roughly £900 plus v.a.t per side....The amount of cars i have done re-work on because someone has only changed the £90 solenoid valve is unreal..proberley because they dont understand how it works or havent got the equipment to repair it properley to time the engine up...
As for checking the fluids and driving it okay....thats like saying to someone with a chest pain just get some water down you and jog 10 miles.......whoops he had a heart attack !
Just do your self a favour and play on the side of caution dont drive it unless you have to and take it to a porsche specialist in your area....im north west if this helps at all www.sportsandclassic.com
Thanks
mike
Job costs roughly £900 plus v.a.t per side....The amount of cars i have done re-work on because someone has only changed the £90 solenoid valve is unreal..proberley because they dont understand how it works or havent got the equipment to repair it properley to time the engine up...
As for checking the fluids and driving it okay....thats like saying to someone with a chest pain just get some water down you and jog 10 miles.......whoops he had a heart attack !
Just do your self a favour and play on the side of caution dont drive it unless you have to and take it to a porsche specialist in your area....im north west if this helps at all www.sportsandclassic.com
Thanks
mike
3.5 Bar at Idle ?!
First things first - what is the oil (Mobil 1 0w40?) and is the oil up to working temperature ? (not water temp, so add 10 minutes more of driving once water temp is up to temp).
My idle pressure is about 1.5 Bar and that's running 10w50, so 3.5 Bar does seem very high - possibly a blockage which would explain the tappet noise !
If it really is 3.5 Bar at Idle then get it flatbedded to a specialist ASAP, don't drive it there ... :-)
(*) Of course, could be a dodgy sensor/meter but why take the risk ...
First things first - what is the oil (Mobil 1 0w40?) and is the oil up to working temperature ? (not water temp, so add 10 minutes more of driving once water temp is up to temp).
My idle pressure is about 1.5 Bar and that's running 10w50, so 3.5 Bar does seem very high - possibly a blockage which would explain the tappet noise !
If it really is 3.5 Bar at Idle then get it flatbedded to a specialist ASAP, don't drive it there ... :-)
(*) Of course, could be a dodgy sensor/meter but why take the risk ...
If the noise is just as loud when revving up as when your foot is off the accelerator then it will not be an exhaust joint.
If it is regular rising with revs and a a ticking noise, it could be a tappet or even a valve spring.
If it is regular, rising with revs and oil pressure static hot is under 2 bar and it is loud and heavy it will probably be a big end.
If it is more of a grumbling noise it will probably be an intermediate shaft bearing.
None need a replacement engine and can be repaired - but still quite expensive - sorry!
Baz Hartech
If it is regular rising with revs and a a ticking noise, it could be a tappet or even a valve spring.
If it is regular, rising with revs and oil pressure static hot is under 2 bar and it is loud and heavy it will probably be a big end.
If it is more of a grumbling noise it will probably be an intermediate shaft bearing.
None need a replacement engine and can be repaired - but still quite expensive - sorry!
Baz Hartech
[quote=sportsandclassic]£500 for Variocams ??? get real...why go to all the trouble of stripping the cam covers off and replacing the solenoid valve only ? the actual unit has a plunger and it gets all pitted and marked also the chain guide slipper on the end of the plunger will be absolutely destroyed....
Job costs roughly £900 plus v.a.t per side....The amount of cars i have done re-work on because someone has only changed the £90 solenoid valve is unreal..proberley because they dont understand how it works or havent got the equipment to repair it properley to time the engine up...
As for checking the fluids and driving it okay....thats like saying to someone with a chest pain just get some water down you and jog 10 miles.......whoops he had a heart attack !
Just do your self a favour and play on the side of caution dont drive it unless you have to and take it to a porsche specialist in your area....im north west if this helps at all www.sportsandclassic.com
Ok Mike your right,maybe I'm taking it for granted that the people here have enough (laymans) mechanical knowledge not to drive the car if they determine the mechanical noise to be terminal (ie broke piston or liner etc) so fair comment not drive the car until its been properly diagnosed,however we have recently (3 months ago) had a 996 repaired due to a variocam problem (early 3.4) On the changeover around 4k ish rpm the noise could be heard inside the car as the shoes (slipper) touched the chain (ie worn shoes) both sides replaced £85 + vat dealer cost for parts(nothing wrong with the plungers or the operation apart from the noise,the car went to a specialist like yourself (He's Dealer master tech level) so they did have the correct timing equipment to re-time the engine when the cams were replaced (including the dealer Bosch Piwis machine and about another 30 k's worth of tools only) and a very well kitted shop (8000 sqft)Total charge £525 + the dreaded inc parts (trade price to us)
They also repair the 6 speed boxes as you do and add stronger bearings (1500+ vat fitted exchange)
Like you say though maybe makes sense to change everything while you've got it stripped
Reg Matt
Job costs roughly £900 plus v.a.t per side....The amount of cars i have done re-work on because someone has only changed the £90 solenoid valve is unreal..proberley because they dont understand how it works or havent got the equipment to repair it properley to time the engine up...
As for checking the fluids and driving it okay....thats like saying to someone with a chest pain just get some water down you and jog 10 miles.......whoops he had a heart attack !
Just do your self a favour and play on the side of caution dont drive it unless you have to and take it to a porsche specialist in your area....im north west if this helps at all www.sportsandclassic.com
Ok Mike your right,maybe I'm taking it for granted that the people here have enough (laymans) mechanical knowledge not to drive the car if they determine the mechanical noise to be terminal (ie broke piston or liner etc) so fair comment not drive the car until its been properly diagnosed,however we have recently (3 months ago) had a 996 repaired due to a variocam problem (early 3.4) On the changeover around 4k ish rpm the noise could be heard inside the car as the shoes (slipper) touched the chain (ie worn shoes) both sides replaced £85 + vat dealer cost for parts(nothing wrong with the plungers or the operation apart from the noise,the car went to a specialist like yourself (He's Dealer master tech level) so they did have the correct timing equipment to re-time the engine when the cams were replaced (including the dealer Bosch Piwis machine and about another 30 k's worth of tools only) and a very well kitted shop (8000 sqft)Total charge £525 + the dreaded inc parts (trade price to us)
They also repair the 6 speed boxes as you do and add stronger bearings (1500+ vat fitted exchange)
Like you say though maybe makes sense to change everything while you've got it stripped
Reg Matt
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