Porsche GT3 Cup Rotors V Standard GT3
Discussion
I am looking to replace (quickly and cheaply) the cracked rotors on my GT2 which turn out to be GT3 items. Carenewal (who are incredibly helpful BTW) suggest the GT3 Cup rotors as being lighter, better venitlated and cheaper than the standard item. Does anyone have any experience of these rotors?
drhildr said:
I am looking to replace (quickly and cheaply) the cracked rotors on my GT2 which turn out to be GT3 items. Carenewal (who are incredibly helpful BTW) suggest the GT3 Cup rotors as being lighter, better venitlated and cheaper than the standard item. Does anyone have any experience of these rotors?
They are fine, although personally I'd go for alcons etc. Only difference is they are thinner than the road going version, but given that the road ones die from cracking before they wear this isn't an issue.
DanH said:
drhildr said:
I am looking to replace (quickly and cheaply) the cracked rotors on my GT2 which turn out to be GT3 items. Carenewal (who are incredibly helpful BTW) suggest the GT3 Cup rotors as being lighter, better venitlated and cheaper than the standard item. Does anyone have any experience of these rotors?
They are fine, although personally I'd go for alcons etc. Only difference is they are thinner than the road going version, but given that the road ones die from cracking before they wear this isn't an issue.
I also understood the cup discs were a slightly different alloy composition from the road discs which could withstand higher temps with possibly some poorer feel until warm (they still work, you just gotta push the pedal that bit harder at first).
Slightly OT but regarding brakes, I had a very interesting experience at the weekend at a track day - as usual I did about 10 laps or so and my brakes smoking - no fade or anything, just doesn't look good when coming off track. So I let Barry Horne (pro GT3 driver - came 19th in the 'ring 24hr race) drive my car and he always left his braking extremely late and extremely hard - for about 10 laps of absolute pounding the brakes - came off, no smoking or anything...he said the brakes could have gone all day..I reckon he was braking twice as late as me and 4 times as hard, but no overheating....just shows, technique does have a lot to do with it. Thats with standard Mk1 brakes.
drhildr said:
I am looking to replace (quickly and cheaply) the cracked rotors on my GT2 which turn out to be GT3 items. Carenewal (who are incredibly helpful BTW) suggest the GT3 Cup rotors as being lighter, better venitlated and cheaper than the standard item. Does anyone have any experience of these rotors?
Hi Dave,i originally changed GT3 to GT3 cups from carnewal,they didn't last very long at all,Alcons or Brembos is the only way to go.
Rob
Thanks Rods - it is the GT3 rotor that Ruf put on my car. I was looking for a cheap and quick fix with the Cup rotor but when you factor in pad renewal along with the you might as well get a full set of pad life with the Alcon. Luckily the Alcon's will fit my calipers so I think an order is going into JZM later!
drhildr said:
I am looking to replace (quickly and cheaply) the cracked rotors on my GT2 which turn out to be GT3 items. Carenewal (who are incredibly helpful BTW) suggest the GT3 Cup rotors as being lighter, better venitlated and cheaper than the standard item. Does anyone have any experience of these rotors?
Yep.
We used the motorsport discs for a while - they are cheaper than the OPC units. Quite honestly there was no difference in performance in terms of speed and wear rate. The Brembo/Alcon upgrade is a quantum leap forward in both areas. If you are tracking your car, this upgrade is a no brainer, especially if the Pagid RS29 Pad is used.
1 set of cup rotors = 4 track days
1 x Set Brembo rotors = 10 - 14 track days
Steve R
GreigM said:
DanH said:
drhildr said:
I am looking to replace (quickly and cheaply) the cracked rotors on my GT2 which turn out to be GT3 items. Carenewal (who are incredibly helpful BTW) suggest the GT3 Cup rotors as being lighter, better venitlated and cheaper than the standard item. Does anyone have any experience of these rotors?
They are fine, although personally I'd go for alcons etc. Only difference is they are thinner than the road going version, but given that the road ones die from cracking before they wear this isn't an issue.
I also understood the cup discs were a slightly different alloy composition from the road discs which could withstand higher temps with possibly some poorer feel until warm (they still work, you just gotta push the pedal that bit harder at first).
Slightly OT but regarding brakes, I had a very interesting experience at the weekend at a track day - as usual I did about 10 laps or so and my brakes smoking - no fade or anything, just doesn't look good when coming off track. So I let Barry Horne (pro GT3 driver - came 19th in the 'ring 24hr race) drive my car and he always left his braking extremely late and extremely hard - for about 10 laps of absolute pounding the brakes - came off, no smoking or anything...he said the brakes could have gone all day..I reckon he was braking twice as late as me and 4 times as hard, but no overheating....just shows, technique does have a lot to do with it. Thats with standard Mk1 brakes.
that sounds right...musnt feather the brake...just stamp on it.
You can make Mk1 brakes last if you do this, plus you go quicker too.
I dont think that the braking is as good as the 6 pots seen on the upgrades, or Mk2, but they arent as bad as once thought.
DanH said:
fergus said:
you need to bed the pads in carefully to get the most out of them, rather than just cane them on a trackday.
Easiest done on track though. I tried doing it on the road and it didn't really happen. Gets tricky when you have to do 5 repeated stops from 120mph etc
That's quite difficult to do on a trackday, too, isn't it? To follow the procedure to the letter, you need about 6km of closely linked straights and no cars around you to worry about...
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