Discussion
Does anyone know these two cars - any thoughts/opinions on spec/age/price?
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3938586.htm
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3837318.htm
Anything I should look out for or be wary of on a 996 turbo cab? E.g. the first one has service every 2 years - is that ok? Can you get a decent extended warranty for these?
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3938586.htm
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3837318.htm
Anything I should look out for or be wary of on a 996 turbo cab? E.g. the first one has service every 2 years - is that ok? Can you get a decent extended warranty for these?
Porkupine said:
Regarding pitfalls there are plenty if you have a read things like radiators condensers etc.
Regards te servicing they are both 2004 cara so were subject to the two year service intervals so no problem there (although many still change oil annually).
Have done a little reading but they still feel a lot cheaper than the Maser to run and more reliable! Bloody search functionality is rubbish so finding info isn't easy on here.Regards te servicing they are both 2004 cara so were subject to the two year service intervals so no problem there (although many still change oil annually).
Any thoughts on the spec/price of the two above?
Weirdly i'm actually sat on a train on my way "up north" to check out a 996 turbo cab today - though not one of the ones you've mentioned.
From my research the weak points on these cars (assuming good servicing and of course the usual things likes clutch and brakes) seem to be the front mounted radiators for engine and aircon.
Also check for any leaks from turbos, diffs, and gearbox. Engine leaks appear to be few and far between.
They're also very sensitive (as with all 911s) to suspension geometry, and lightly driven cars often wear the insides of the tyres out because of camber (front and rear).
From elsewhere on the internet:
"Check the service book has the stamps for the five recalls: replace fuel pump wiring harness and coolant line spring clamp band; fit anti-chafing sheath to engine compartment fuel line; strengthen wiring harness in area of oil filter, and secure hydraulic clutch line with extra bracket."
From my research the weak points on these cars (assuming good servicing and of course the usual things likes clutch and brakes) seem to be the front mounted radiators for engine and aircon.
Also check for any leaks from turbos, diffs, and gearbox. Engine leaks appear to be few and far between.
They're also very sensitive (as with all 911s) to suspension geometry, and lightly driven cars often wear the insides of the tyres out because of camber (front and rear).
From elsewhere on the internet:
"Check the service book has the stamps for the five recalls: replace fuel pump wiring harness and coolant line spring clamp band; fit anti-chafing sheath to engine compartment fuel line; strengthen wiring harness in area of oil filter, and secure hydraulic clutch line with extra bracket."
David A said:
Does anyone know these two cars - any thoughts/opinions on spec/age/price?
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3938586.htm
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3837318.htm
Anything I should look out for or be wary of on a 996 turbo cab? E.g. the first one has service every 2 years - is that ok? Can you get a decent extended warranty for these?
One thing to be mindful of is that a 996 turbo tiptronic cabrio is the heaviest 996 made and naturally this harms both speed and braking. Just to put this in context: http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3938586.htm
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3837318.htm
Anything I should look out for or be wary of on a 996 turbo cab? E.g. the first one has service every 2 years - is that ok? Can you get a decent extended warranty for these?
Base 996 C2 = 1,320 kg
At 320 bhp, 242 bhp/ton
996 Turbo Tip Cab = 1722kg
At 420 bhp, 243 bhp/ton
Add in to the equation the gearing of the manual vs power sapping tiptronic and you'll have one red faced turbo owner
My next car will be a turbo but it will be a manual coupe.
disco1 said:
Base 996 C2 = 1,320 kg
At 320 bhp, 242 bhp/ton
996 Turbo Tip Cab = 1722kg
At 420 bhp, 243 bhp/ton
Add in to the equation the gearing of the manual vs power sapping tiptronic and you'll have one red faced turbo owner
My next car will be a turbo but it will be a manual coupe.
I agree with the figures, but you have to take the extra torque of the forced induction car into account - the turbo/tip/cab will still be quicker in a straight line than the C2. Just maybe not by as much as the turbo owner would hope At 320 bhp, 242 bhp/ton
996 Turbo Tip Cab = 1722kg
At 420 bhp, 243 bhp/ton
Add in to the equation the gearing of the manual vs power sapping tiptronic and you'll have one red faced turbo owner
My next car will be a turbo but it will be a manual coupe.
VerySideways said:
Weirdly i'm actually sat on a train on my way "up north" to check out a 996 turbo cab today - though not one of the ones you've mentioned.
From my research the weak points on these cars (assuming good servicing and of course the usual things likes clutch and brakes) seem to be the front mounted radiators for engine and aircon.
Also check for any leaks from turbos, diffs, and gearbox. Engine leaks appear to be few and far between.
They're also very sensitive (as with all 911s) to suspension geometry, and lightly driven cars often wear the insides of the tyres out because of camber (front and rear).
From elsewhere on the internet:
"Check the service book has the stamps for the five recalls: replace fuel pump wiring harness and coolant line spring clamp band; fit anti-chafing sheath to engine compartment fuel line; strengthen wiring harness in area of oil filter, and secure hydraulic clutch line with extra bracket."
Thanks, good info, if you've any bookmarks you've saved to your research I'd be grateful From my research the weak points on these cars (assuming good servicing and of course the usual things likes clutch and brakes) seem to be the front mounted radiators for engine and aircon.
Also check for any leaks from turbos, diffs, and gearbox. Engine leaks appear to be few and far between.
They're also very sensitive (as with all 911s) to suspension geometry, and lightly driven cars often wear the insides of the tyres out because of camber (front and rear).
From elsewhere on the internet:
"Check the service book has the stamps for the five recalls: replace fuel pump wiring harness and coolant line spring clamp band; fit anti-chafing sheath to engine compartment fuel line; strengthen wiring harness in area of oil filter, and secure hydraulic clutch line with extra bracket."
Let me know what you found on the one you're off to see (pm if you don't want all and sundry to read)Cheers
I had one of these from new, was a great car, but did have some stuff to look out for, most of which has been covered as per above, especially the rads condensers..
Mine had one, if not 2 power hood motors changed under warranty though, so maybe check for slow or noisy hood operation. Alignment needs regular checking, as these things eat rear tyres at the best of times, let alone when the geo is out.
Also, watch out for near scary consumption of oil, it's a common thing on 996tt, but you can get caught out very quickly, especially after some spirited driving.
As for the weight thing mentioned above, a simple remap, and you can bolt on an easy 50bhp or so, totally transforms the car IMO, and easily handles it.
Enjoy,
G.
Mine had one, if not 2 power hood motors changed under warranty though, so maybe check for slow or noisy hood operation. Alignment needs regular checking, as these things eat rear tyres at the best of times, let alone when the geo is out.
Also, watch out for near scary consumption of oil, it's a common thing on 996tt, but you can get caught out very quickly, especially after some spirited driving.
As for the weight thing mentioned above, a simple remap, and you can bolt on an easy 50bhp or so, totally transforms the car IMO, and easily handles it.
Enjoy,
G.
Edited by Glenn McMenamin on Tuesday 19th June 16:13
Edited by Glenn McMenamin on Tuesday 19th June 16:16
VerySideways said:
They're also very sensitive (as with all 911s) to suspension geometry, and lightly driven cars often wear the insides of the tyres out because of camber (front and rear).
Can you explain the comment re "lightly driven" above please - my car (996 C4S) was lightly driven (before I got it ) and the insides of the front tyres show more wear than the outsides (not to a problem extent yet). I'm using the car more heavily myself - will this help?Edited by Prof Beard on Tuesday 19th June 17:05
Lightly driven = straight lines or around town
The rear wheels are cambered, so they wear evenly when they are cornered hard and frequently.
The front wheels camber over as they steer, so again they wear evenly when cornered fast and frequently, will wear more heavily on the inside if used for lots of motorway work and/or if a lot of lock is used, for example low speed driving around town.
So, if you spend more time driving briskly on winding country roads then your tyres will wear more evenly than if you drive slowly in town or in straight lines on the motorway
The rear wheels are cambered, so they wear evenly when they are cornered hard and frequently.
The front wheels camber over as they steer, so again they wear evenly when cornered fast and frequently, will wear more heavily on the inside if used for lots of motorway work and/or if a lot of lock is used, for example low speed driving around town.
So, if you spend more time driving briskly on winding country roads then your tyres will wear more evenly than if you drive slowly in town or in straight lines on the motorway
Prof Beard said:
VerySideways said:
They're also very sensitive (as with all 911s) to suspension geometry, and lightly driven cars often wear the insides of the tyres out because of camber (front and rear).
Can you explain the comment re "lightly driven" above please - my car (996 C4S) was lightly driven (before I got it ) and the insides of the front tyres show more wear than the outsides (not to a problem extent yet). I'm using the car more heavily myself - will this help?Edited by Prof Beard on Tuesday 19th June 17:05
Prof Beard said:
VerySideways said:
They're also very sensitive (as with all 911s) to suspension geometry, and lightly driven cars often wear the insides of the tyres out because of camber (front and rear).
Can you explain the comment re "lightly driven" above please - my car (996 C4S) was lightly driven (before I got it ) and the insides of the front tyres show more wear than the outsides (not to a problem extent yet). I'm using the car more heavily myself - will this help?NBTBRV8 said:
I disagree. I fitted new tyres all round to my 996t coupe at 50,000km and I now have done 71,000kms and 4 track days on them which furred them up nicely. My fronts are half worn out and still look pretty reasonable, the rears are wearing on the inside edge but I reckon I'll get another 5000kms or so out of them before the sides go, but the reast of the tyre would still have a bit of life left in it if they wore evenly. I think I'll get 30,000+kms out of the front and 25,000kms out of the rear. If I didn't track it I'd get a few more.
All understood but you would manage your tyres better with a different track geo and a road geo which if its done properly will avoid the uneven wear you describe.For what its worth I run MPS2s and have perfectly even rear wear and have 4.2mm tread across the pattern after 11K miles so should get about 16-18K miles out of the rears.
IMHO geo is worth every penny.
6C4GTS said:
Prof Beard said:
VerySideways said:
They're also very sensitive (as with all 911s) to suspension geometry, and lightly driven cars often wear the insides of the tyres out because of camber (front and rear).
Can you explain the comment re "lightly driven" above please - my car (996 C4S) was lightly driven (before I got it ) and the insides of the front tyres show more wear than the outsides (not to a problem extent yet). I'm using the car more heavily myself - will this help?6C4GTS said:
All understood but you would manage your tyres better with a different track geo and a road geo which if its done properly will avoid the uneven wear you describe.
For what its worth I run MPS2s and have perfectly even rear wear and have 4.2mm tread across the pattern after 11K miles so should get about 16-18K miles out of the rears.
IMHO geo is worth every penny.
My car only does about 4 track days a year and is set 100% as per the factory manual, I've had it checked twice. When I bought the car it hadn't been tracked and the rear insides wore out on the rear on those before the rest. It just must be a characteristic of the car with default geo settings.For what its worth I run MPS2s and have perfectly even rear wear and have 4.2mm tread across the pattern after 11K miles so should get about 16-18K miles out of the rears.
IMHO geo is worth every penny.
David A said:
Does anyone know these two cars - any thoughts/opinions on spec/age/price?
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3938586.htm
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3837318.htm
Anything I should look out for or be wary of on a 996 turbo cab? E.g. the first one has service every 2 years - is that ok? Can you get a decent extended warranty for these?
Short answer is get an inspection. As others have mentioned, rads and a/c condensers are long term consumables as they pick up pin prick holes. Turbo actuators can stick; plenty of other stuff, I'm sure. But there aren't any Big Issues like IMS/RMS/bore scoring. http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3938586.htm
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3837318.htm
Anything I should look out for or be wary of on a 996 turbo cab? E.g. the first one has service every 2 years - is that ok? Can you get a decent extended warranty for these?
It is very very difficult to overrev the engine with the tip box; not so much with the manual Overrevs can kill your chances of getting an OPC warranty, if that is what you're after. It all depends on the extent of the overrevs.
Bottom line is that they are very nice cars. They require looking after, but you end up wanting to look after them. The straight line acceleration is brutal, and the first thing you notice, in a sort of "OhmyGodIneedfasterreactionstodrivethissafely!" kind of way. You get used to it though. They are very sure footed in all conditions courtesy of the 4WD. Absent a geo set up, they understeer at the limit, and the stability management will help keep you on the road.
The cabs have a range of squeaks both with the softtop up or down, and with the hardtop on. Nothing that some grease can't solve. The windows can sound like they are rattling in the doors, but that doesn't bother me. More importantly the chassis feels stiff and there's little or no noticeable scuttle.
Later ones will be on a 2 year servicing schedule as others have said. As they get older it does them no harm IMO to have at least annual oil changes and check ups.
There's no point getting into a manual v tip debate. Buy what you prefer.
Greg66 said:
Short answer is get an inspection. As others have mentioned, rads and a/c condensers are long term consumables as they pick up pin prick holes. Turbo actuators can stick; plenty of other stuff, I'm sure. But there aren't any Big Issues like IMS/RMS/bore scoring.
It is very very difficult to overrev the engine with the tip box; not so much with the manual Overrevs can kill your chances of getting an OPC warranty, if that is what you're after. It all depends on the extent of the overrevs.
Bottom line is that they are very nice cars. They require looking after, but you end up wanting to look after them. The straight line acceleration is brutal, and the first thing you notice, in a sort of "OhmyGodIneedfasterreactionstodrivethissafely!" kind of way. You get used to it though. They are very sure footed in all conditions courtesy of the 4WD. Absent a geo set up, they understeer at the limit, and the stability management will help keep you on the road.
The cabs have a range of squeaks both with the softtop up or down, and with the hardtop on. Nothing that some grease can't solve. The windows can sound like they are rattling in the doors, but that doesn't bother me. More importantly the chassis feels stiff and there's little or no noticeable scuttle.
Later ones will be on a 2 year servicing schedule as others have said. As they get older it does them no harm IMO to have at least annual oil changes and check ups.
There's no point getting into a manual v tip debate. Buy what you prefer.
It is very very difficult to overrev the engine with the tip box; not so much with the manual Overrevs can kill your chances of getting an OPC warranty, if that is what you're after. It all depends on the extent of the overrevs.
Bottom line is that they are very nice cars. They require looking after, but you end up wanting to look after them. The straight line acceleration is brutal, and the first thing you notice, in a sort of "OhmyGodIneedfasterreactionstodrivethissafely!" kind of way. You get used to it though. They are very sure footed in all conditions courtesy of the 4WD. Absent a geo set up, they understeer at the limit, and the stability management will help keep you on the road.
The cabs have a range of squeaks both with the softtop up or down, and with the hardtop on. Nothing that some grease can't solve. The windows can sound like they are rattling in the doors, but that doesn't bother me. More importantly the chassis feels stiff and there's little or no noticeable scuttle.
Later ones will be on a 2 year servicing schedule as others have said. As they get older it does them no harm IMO to have at least annual oil changes and check ups.
There's no point getting into a manual v tip debate. Buy what you prefer.
Greg66 said:
Short answer is get an inspection. As others have mentioned, rads and a/c condensers are long term consumables as they pick up pin prick holes. Turbo actuators can stick; plenty of other stuff, I'm sure. But there aren't any Big Issues like IMS/RMS/bore scoring.
It is very very difficult to overrev the engine with the tip box; not so much with the manual Overrevs can kill your chances of getting an OPC warranty, if that is what you're after. It all depends on the extent of the overrevs.
Bottom line is that they are very nice cars. They require looking after, but you end up wanting to look after them. The straight line acceleration is brutal, and the first thing you notice, in a sort of "OhmyGodIneedfasterreactionstodrivethissafely!" kind of way. You get used to it though. They are very sure footed in all conditions courtesy of the 4WD. Absent a geo set up, they understeer at the limit, and the stability management will help keep you on the road.
The cabs have a range of squeaks both with the softtop up or down, and with the hardtop on. Nothing that some grease can't solve. The windows can sound like they are rattling in the doors, but that doesn't bother me. More importantly the chassis feels stiff and there's little or no noticeable scuttle.
Later ones will be on a 2 year servicing schedule as others have said. As they get older it does them no harm IMO to have at least annual oil changes and check ups.
There's no point getting into a manual v tip debate. Buy what you prefer.
Thanks, good info. It is very very difficult to overrev the engine with the tip box; not so much with the manual Overrevs can kill your chances of getting an OPC warranty, if that is what you're after. It all depends on the extent of the overrevs.
Bottom line is that they are very nice cars. They require looking after, but you end up wanting to look after them. The straight line acceleration is brutal, and the first thing you notice, in a sort of "OhmyGodIneedfasterreactionstodrivethissafely!" kind of way. You get used to it though. They are very sure footed in all conditions courtesy of the 4WD. Absent a geo set up, they understeer at the limit, and the stability management will help keep you on the road.
The cabs have a range of squeaks both with the softtop up or down, and with the hardtop on. Nothing that some grease can't solve. The windows can sound like they are rattling in the doors, but that doesn't bother me. More importantly the chassis feels stiff and there's little or no noticeable scuttle.
Later ones will be on a 2 year servicing schedule as others have said. As they get older it does them no harm IMO to have at least annual oil changes and check ups.
There's no point getting into a manual v tip debate. Buy what you prefer.
Spec wise - any must haves/must not haves?
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