106 S1 Rallye 16v
Discussion
Here's my 106! It's a bit of a sleeper.
The pics not from a great angle, then again its not a great looking car from any angle. For those that don't know, the Rallye was built by Peugeot so it could be homologated for sub-1400cc group-N and A rally classes. Originally the car had a 1294cc 8v engine which produced 100hp at a heady 7200 rpm!
Noddy's engine is a 1.6 16v from a year 2000 Saxo VTS so has 120 hp as standard, but he also has an ITG panel filter, 4-2-1 manifold and full peugeot group-N exhaust so is a couple of hp over that. The gearbox uses the original ratios from the 1.3 engine which helps keep it in the powerband right through to 125 mph, where it hits the rev limiter in 5th.
Everything behind the front seats has been stripped. These cars weigh 820 kg as standard so this is probably around the 800 mark. When I picked it up the driver seat was non adjustable which was a bit of an issue- the previous owner was about 6'2 and I'm 5'7, but with a few coats stuffed down the back of the seat I could almost fully depress the clutch
and managed to get home, albeit driving fairly gingerly. So the frst job was fitting some rails to the seat. I got an original seat with the car so used the rails off that and made up a subframe to fix them to the bucket seat. I also shifted the seat 2 inch towards the middle of the car so it's central to the steering wheel and lifted it by 40mm which gives much better visibility.
Full spec:
1995 Series 1 Peugeot 106 Rallye
1.6 16v engine, circa 125 hp
Stainless 4-2-1 manifold
Full peugeot group-N de-cat exhaust
Group-N solid engine mounts
ITG panel filter in standard airbox
106 GTI clutch
Standard SI Rallye gearbox
Eibach Springs, Bilstein Dampers
Shenpar suspension bushes.
Black Diamond Discs, mintex 1144 pads
Yokohama A539 tyres (185 55 i think)
Standard 14x6.5 Michelin superlight steel wheels
Cobra Monaco bucket seats, Luke 4 point harness'
I haven't got any performance figures yet but other 16v s1 rallyes run mid 14s@circa95mph on the 1/4 and low 7 or high 6s to 60, and judging by the way this one pulls its easily within those figures. It's not a TVR beater by any stretch of the imagination, but it'll shock alot of 'performance car' drivers.
And talk about a riot to drive! I've been grinning all weekend, and i've already used up 300 of my 5000 annual miles (damned insurance!). Nobody whos come along for a ride can believe how quick it is, people just laugh hysterically at the fact that something that looks so toy-town accelrate so furiously.
The pics not from a great angle, then again its not a great looking car from any angle. For those that don't know, the Rallye was built by Peugeot so it could be homologated for sub-1400cc group-N and A rally classes. Originally the car had a 1294cc 8v engine which produced 100hp at a heady 7200 rpm!
Noddy's engine is a 1.6 16v from a year 2000 Saxo VTS so has 120 hp as standard, but he also has an ITG panel filter, 4-2-1 manifold and full peugeot group-N exhaust so is a couple of hp over that. The gearbox uses the original ratios from the 1.3 engine which helps keep it in the powerband right through to 125 mph, where it hits the rev limiter in 5th.
Everything behind the front seats has been stripped. These cars weigh 820 kg as standard so this is probably around the 800 mark. When I picked it up the driver seat was non adjustable which was a bit of an issue- the previous owner was about 6'2 and I'm 5'7, but with a few coats stuffed down the back of the seat I could almost fully depress the clutch
and managed to get home, albeit driving fairly gingerly. So the frst job was fitting some rails to the seat. I got an original seat with the car so used the rails off that and made up a subframe to fix them to the bucket seat. I also shifted the seat 2 inch towards the middle of the car so it's central to the steering wheel and lifted it by 40mm which gives much better visibility.Full spec:
1995 Series 1 Peugeot 106 Rallye
1.6 16v engine, circa 125 hp
Stainless 4-2-1 manifold
Full peugeot group-N de-cat exhaust
Group-N solid engine mounts
ITG panel filter in standard airbox
106 GTI clutch
Standard SI Rallye gearbox
Eibach Springs, Bilstein Dampers
Shenpar suspension bushes.
Black Diamond Discs, mintex 1144 pads
Yokohama A539 tyres (185 55 i think)
Standard 14x6.5 Michelin superlight steel wheels
Cobra Monaco bucket seats, Luke 4 point harness'
I haven't got any performance figures yet but other 16v s1 rallyes run mid 14s@circa95mph on the 1/4 and low 7 or high 6s to 60, and judging by the way this one pulls its easily within those figures. It's not a TVR beater by any stretch of the imagination, but it'll shock alot of 'performance car' drivers.
And talk about a riot to drive! I've been grinning all weekend, and i've already used up 300 of my 5000 annual miles (damned insurance!). Nobody whos come along for a ride can believe how quick it is, people just laugh hysterically at the fact that something that looks so toy-town accelrate so furiously.
Edited by busta on Monday 20th August 21:25
Absoloutely awesome cars! My 205XS was similar, it had the same box basically and similar engine, though only made 85bhp. I always liked those and was gonna buy one but I kinda skipped that in the end. Proper cheeky little motors and I bet with that 1.6 in there it REALLY shifts now!
very nice 
, i have had the honour of giving a few of these cars a blast and they are great fun in any form. Obviously with the 16v motor the potential now is massive although not as necessary as some believe.
Do you have any plans to cage it etc or just leave it nice and subtle looking which it is doing at the moment ?
, i have had the honour of giving a few of these cars a blast and they are great fun in any form. Obviously with the 16v motor the potential now is massive although not as necessary as some believe. Do you have any plans to cage it etc or just leave it nice and subtle looking which it is doing at the moment ?
Thanks for all the 
I was thinking about possibly fitting a cage but then I've also been considering putting a standard interior back in to make it even more stealthy. Either way, I've only had the car a couple of days so I'm leaving it as it is for a while until I can make my mind up. The car has only done 87k and is in excellent condition for its age so one thing I wont be doing is chopping anything off or fitting a weld in cage. In the long term a full strip down, respray and re-build is not out of the picture just to get it back to as-new but keeping the 16v engine of course
On a similar note, larier cams and throttle bodies would be nice but I want to keep it reasonably economical and reliable to run and maintain so I won't take it any further than that. Oh, and maybe see if I can swap the 5th gear ratio for something a bit more leggy but thats something I need to look into.
Thanks Chris, I can believe it! I'll get it along to a track day and the pod sometime soon, just got to save up some more pennies.
Dan_R said:
Do you have any plans to cage it etc or just leave it nice and subtle looking which it is doing at the moment ?
I was thinking about possibly fitting a cage but then I've also been considering putting a standard interior back in to make it even more stealthy. Either way, I've only had the car a couple of days so I'm leaving it as it is for a while until I can make my mind up. The car has only done 87k and is in excellent condition for its age so one thing I wont be doing is chopping anything off or fitting a weld in cage. In the long term a full strip down, respray and re-build is not out of the picture just to get it back to as-new but keeping the 16v engine of course
On a similar note, larier cams and throttle bodies would be nice but I want to keep it reasonably economical and reliable to run and maintain so I won't take it any further than that. Oh, and maybe see if I can swap the 5th gear ratio for something a bit more leggy but thats something I need to look into.
CPC said:
glad you love the car Bernie
reference 1/4 miles, it has done a 14.82@93.89mph
reference 1/4 miles, it has done a 14.82@93.89mph
Thanks Chris, I can believe it! I'll get it along to a track day and the pod sometime soon, just got to save up some more pennies.
I found out tonight Noddy has a few lighting issues.
Currently he only has 1 front sidelight, 1 dipped headlight and no full beam working so a wiring check and some new bulbs may be required. Fuses are all OK. The wiring loom was changed with the engine conversion and in a few places looks a little bit home made. It looks like I've got something to keep me busy this weekend at least!
Bernie
Currently he only has 1 front sidelight, 1 dipped headlight and no full beam working so a wiring check and some new bulbs may be required. Fuses are all OK. The wiring loom was changed with the engine conversion and in a few places looks a little bit home made. It looks like I've got something to keep me busy this weekend at least!
Bernie
Noddy went on the scales today!
Not bad!
Then subtract the wight of the beams because I forgot to put them on when I zeroed the scales.
819-34=785kg! Thats better, and thats with 1/2 tank (approx 20kg) of fuel.
Found a few more niggles with the car today. Still can't get full beam to work- it's not bulbs and I don't have a fuse box diagram but I checked every fuse and it's not one of them! And I don't think its the switch because the dash light still comes on. Any ideas?
I also noticed the throttle cable stop was a bit Heath Robinson
Here's a quick list of other niggles I've found so far:
He's missing several screws in the air box and cam cover. Infact the Air box isn't even fixed to anything, it just seems to hang on the hose. I'll make up a bracket when I get a chance.
The exhaust is squeaking at the joint at the end of the downpipe on idle.
The metal around one of the seat mounting points has cracked but welding it up will be an interior out job so I'm waiting till something more major breaks and he's off the road for a few days.
The passenger door lock is very tempremental.
There are no wheel arch liners so mud collect on the door hinges and retaining jiblet thing and makes a horrible grinding noise when the door is opened.
The engine breather pipe is made out of insulating tape.
The bonnet fouls the nearside of the scuttle panel which seems to be the result of a front end impact. I'll get a new bonnet anyway because the front edge had been repaired badly.
And lastly I noticed a suspicious collection of zip-ties around one of the coolant pipes which look like they are covering up another slightly bodged repair so that'll require further investigation.
Other than that, it's still accelerating furiously when asked and cornering like a limpet stuck to a playground roundabout so I'm pretty pleased with my investment!
Oh, and Rimmer, you have posted prcatically the same congratulatory one sentence reply on nearly every thread in readers cars!
Not bad!
Then subtract the wight of the beams because I forgot to put them on when I zeroed the scales.
819-34=785kg! Thats better, and thats with 1/2 tank (approx 20kg) of fuel.
Found a few more niggles with the car today. Still can't get full beam to work- it's not bulbs and I don't have a fuse box diagram but I checked every fuse and it's not one of them! And I don't think its the switch because the dash light still comes on. Any ideas?
I also noticed the throttle cable stop was a bit Heath Robinson
Here's a quick list of other niggles I've found so far:
He's missing several screws in the air box and cam cover. Infact the Air box isn't even fixed to anything, it just seems to hang on the hose. I'll make up a bracket when I get a chance.
The exhaust is squeaking at the joint at the end of the downpipe on idle.
The metal around one of the seat mounting points has cracked but welding it up will be an interior out job so I'm waiting till something more major breaks and he's off the road for a few days.
The passenger door lock is very tempremental.
There are no wheel arch liners so mud collect on the door hinges and retaining jiblet thing and makes a horrible grinding noise when the door is opened.
The engine breather pipe is made out of insulating tape.
The bonnet fouls the nearside of the scuttle panel which seems to be the result of a front end impact. I'll get a new bonnet anyway because the front edge had been repaired badly.
And lastly I noticed a suspicious collection of zip-ties around one of the coolant pipes which look like they are covering up another slightly bodged repair so that'll require further investigation.
Other than that, it's still accelerating furiously when asked and cornering like a limpet stuck to a playground roundabout so I'm pretty pleased with my investment!
Oh, and Rimmer, you have posted prcatically the same congratulatory one sentence reply on nearly every thread in readers cars!
Just a little (long-winded) update!
The exhaust started blowing last weekend and the wheel arche liners I'd ordered arrived on wednesday (It didn't have any when I bought it- hence the door hinges are full of grit!) So I finished work early on friday to get home and sort these bits out.
I jacked it up to fit the arch liners, removed the wheel and was shocked to find this
Turns out the brake pads had only been kept from flying out completely by the wheel rim! There was no evidence of any of the fixings that should hold them in, the pads lifted straight out! To think that I've driven 600 hard miles, most of them with a passenger on board, with my brake pads not even held in place is quite sickening.
Here's a pic of the pad, showing it's been like this for some time.
Whilst poking about under the arches I noticed the inside of the o/s wing is painted white, the front bumper is held on with cable ties and the o/s chassis rail has been crumpled and re straightened (badly) so the car has obviously been involved in a front end smash at some point. Maybe this was the reason for the 16v engine being fitted?
Anyay, I fitted the arch liners, ordered a new set of pads and retaining clip set and moved onto the exhaust.
The break was fairly obvious- a stress fracture on the centre section, at the end of a reinforcing brace. Luckily I caught this just in time- the crack was over half way around the pipe!
On removing the pipe I also discovered one of the rear mounting rubbers was a complete bodge. This car has more bodges than Scrapheap Challenge!
I haven't got any stainless mig wire at the mo so I got a friend to weld up the crack and we made up a couple more braces to distribute the loads a bit better and hopefully prevent it happening again! These Scorpion Pugsport exhausts are getting a bad reputation for stress fractures occurring around the welds.
I fitted the new pads and the appropriate securing bits and bobs so all is nice and safe again. I also heat-wrapped the manifold to try and get rid of some of the heat in the engine bay. The aluminiumised fabric smoked auite alot the first time I ran the car which was quite disconcerting but all is well now! It seems to have reduced the temperature a little although the car still runs slightly hotter than I'd like. It has, however, made the running temperature alot more consistent- it used to rise to 3/4 very quickly if I put my foot down for more than a few seconds but now the needle pretty much stays at about 5/8ths on the gauge.
Thats all for now!
P.S. let me know if you find this all abit boring, Somebody recently complained that there have been alot of dull cars in Readers cars recently but I'd like to think mines of interest to atleast a few people on here. I don't think anyone could call 0-60 in 6.3 seconds from a nearly standard 1.6 boring! And the brake pad story definately needed to be told! Buyers beware...
The exhaust started blowing last weekend and the wheel arche liners I'd ordered arrived on wednesday (It didn't have any when I bought it- hence the door hinges are full of grit!) So I finished work early on friday to get home and sort these bits out.
I jacked it up to fit the arch liners, removed the wheel and was shocked to find this
Turns out the brake pads had only been kept from flying out completely by the wheel rim! There was no evidence of any of the fixings that should hold them in, the pads lifted straight out! To think that I've driven 600 hard miles, most of them with a passenger on board, with my brake pads not even held in place is quite sickening.
Here's a pic of the pad, showing it's been like this for some time.
Whilst poking about under the arches I noticed the inside of the o/s wing is painted white, the front bumper is held on with cable ties and the o/s chassis rail has been crumpled and re straightened (badly) so the car has obviously been involved in a front end smash at some point. Maybe this was the reason for the 16v engine being fitted?
Anyay, I fitted the arch liners, ordered a new set of pads and retaining clip set and moved onto the exhaust.
The break was fairly obvious- a stress fracture on the centre section, at the end of a reinforcing brace. Luckily I caught this just in time- the crack was over half way around the pipe!
On removing the pipe I also discovered one of the rear mounting rubbers was a complete bodge. This car has more bodges than Scrapheap Challenge!
I haven't got any stainless mig wire at the mo so I got a friend to weld up the crack and we made up a couple more braces to distribute the loads a bit better and hopefully prevent it happening again! These Scorpion Pugsport exhausts are getting a bad reputation for stress fractures occurring around the welds.
I fitted the new pads and the appropriate securing bits and bobs so all is nice and safe again. I also heat-wrapped the manifold to try and get rid of some of the heat in the engine bay. The aluminiumised fabric smoked auite alot the first time I ran the car which was quite disconcerting but all is well now! It seems to have reduced the temperature a little although the car still runs slightly hotter than I'd like. It has, however, made the running temperature alot more consistent- it used to rise to 3/4 very quickly if I put my foot down for more than a few seconds but now the needle pretty much stays at about 5/8ths on the gauge.
Thats all for now!
P.S. let me know if you find this all abit boring, Somebody recently complained that there have been alot of dull cars in Readers cars recently but I'd like to think mines of interest to atleast a few people on here. I don't think anyone could call 0-60 in 6.3 seconds from a nearly standard 1.6 boring! And the brake pad story definately needed to be told! Buyers beware...
Edited by busta on Saturday 9th June 23:13
not boring at all i think i can help on your spilt exhaust apart for the bodged rubber mouts i would check the engine/gearbox bushes as if they worn and have a lot a of give its a well know socurce for SS perfomace zorsts and maifolds cracking as the engine moves about a lot under gear shifts (when i saw my car on a rolling rd i was shocked at how much it moves)
haggle said:
not boring at all i think i can help on your spilt exhaust apart for the bodged rubber mouts i would check the engine/gearbox bushes as if they worn and have a lot a of give its a well know socurce for SS perfomace zorsts and maifolds cracking as the engine moves about a lot under gear shifts (when i saw my car on a rolling rd i was shocked at how much it moves)
It has stiffer Group N engine mounts but I'm not sure how old they are, there is a little play in the lower mount so you could be right. It didn't help that the manifold-to-centre section joint had been bolted up without springs so had no give. I've rectified this so, touch wood, I shouldn't have many more problems. Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff