Discussion
After wanting one for a couple of years, but not being sure if it was right, practical enough, affordable, all those things, I decided to take the plunge and purchased a 997 Carrera S.
It's a 2006, 51k on the clock, manual, with Sports Exhaust, Sports Chrono, BOSE, heated seats and sunroof, which was just the combination I wanted. It's finished in Arctic Silver with black interior and the Sport Design wheels. Had a bore check done and it came back completely clear. Very clean history with a lot of work done and the bodywork is in exceptional condition with just a couple of tiny stone chips.
I'm about a month into ownership at this point. Coming from a Golf GTI, the Porsche is a huge step up in driving enjoyment. The sound alone is enough to make me forget (mostly) about the poor economy!
There are a few minor but far from show-shopping jobs that need doing to it
I've fitted a new Android Auto head unit, with a digital radio dongle and reversing camera still to wire up, and I still need to move my private plate over.
Looking forward to what is hopefully a good few years of ownership. However, if I only keep it a year, then so be it. It was an itch that needed scratching!
Oh, and it fits my golf clubs in, which is class!
It's a 2006, 51k on the clock, manual, with Sports Exhaust, Sports Chrono, BOSE, heated seats and sunroof, which was just the combination I wanted. It's finished in Arctic Silver with black interior and the Sport Design wheels. Had a bore check done and it came back completely clear. Very clean history with a lot of work done and the bodywork is in exceptional condition with just a couple of tiny stone chips.
I'm about a month into ownership at this point. Coming from a Golf GTI, the Porsche is a huge step up in driving enjoyment. The sound alone is enough to make me forget (mostly) about the poor economy!
There are a few minor but far from show-shopping jobs that need doing to it
- new window regulator (purchased but not fitted) - the driver's window isn't dropping properly
- new door lock assembly - even if the window was dropping properly, it wouldn't stay open with the door
- handbrake adjustment
- new horn (sounds like a clown car currently)
- new window switch on driver's side (I think)
- sunroof behaves a little oddly sometimes so I need to investigate this
I've fitted a new Android Auto head unit, with a digital radio dongle and reversing camera still to wire up, and I still need to move my private plate over.
Looking forward to what is hopefully a good few years of ownership. However, if I only keep it a year, then so be it. It was an itch that needed scratching!
Oh, and it fits my golf clubs in, which is class!
Edited by s94wht on Thursday 20th March 13:24
Edited by s94wht on Friday 21st March 17:17
CantDecide said:
Congratulations on a lovely purchase. Sounds like lots of the common jobs have been completed over the past few years which should serve you well over the coming months/years. The horn sounds like a failure of one of them as they are in pairs, this gives the comical sound!
That was my thought; I could have maybe waited for a rebuilt engine to come up at the same time, but they way I weighed it up, the rebuild is something expensive that could need doing, the other jobs are less expensive but will need doing.shalmaneser said:
Are you sure the window drop issue isn't the door handle microswitch?
Car is lovely, the 997 shape is a real looker.
I can hear it trying to drop when the handle is pulled, it just doesn't go anywhere. It also tries to go back up when the door is open, so I believe that is the door lock assembly. With the window switch as well, this door certainly has its gremlinsCar is lovely, the 997 shape is a real looker.
I just realised I managed to omit the issue that bothers me the most - warm start stubbornness. Take it out for a spirited drive and turn the car off, then try and start it again and it's a bit stubborn, it doesn't crank properly. It gets there eventually but I don't want to wear anything out.
I've been told that it can be corrosion on the pin where the battery connects to the power distributor or something like that. Warmth + corrosion = higher resistance = less power to the car. I believe that's the logic. Looks a bit of a pain to fix but once I get it sorted I think it'll be a car that I can just enjoy
I've been told that it can be corrosion on the pin where the battery connects to the power distributor or something like that. Warmth + corrosion = higher resistance = less power to the car. I believe that's the logic. Looks a bit of a pain to fix but once I get it sorted I think it'll be a car that I can just enjoy
s94wht said:
shalmaneser said:
Are you sure the window drop issue isn't the door handle microswitch?
Car is lovely, the 997 shape is a real looker.
I can hear it trying to drop when the handle is pulled, it just doesn't go anywhere. It also tries to go back up when the door is open, so I believe that is the door lock assembly. With the window switch as well, this door certainly has its gremlinsCar is lovely, the 997 shape is a real looker.
s94wht said:
I just realised I managed to omit the issue that bothers me the most - warm start stubbornness. Take it out for a spirited drive and turn the car off, then try and start it again and it's a bit stubborn, it doesn't crank properly. It gets there eventually but I don't want to wear anything out.
I've been told that it can be corrosion on the pin where the battery connects to the power distributor or something like that. Warmth + corrosion = higher resistance = less power to the car. I believe that's the logic. Looks a bit of a pain to fix but once I get it sorted I think it'll be a car that I can just enjoy
This is almost certainly the 'Y cable' which is a cable that runs from the alternator to the starter to the battery post in the engine bay. It's a common failure that these corrode and as you say heat from running the engine increases the resistance leading to embarrassment on the petrol forecourt.I've been told that it can be corrosion on the pin where the battery connects to the power distributor or something like that. Warmth + corrosion = higher resistance = less power to the car. I believe that's the logic. Looks a bit of a pain to fix but once I get it sorted I think it'll be a car that I can just enjoy
It's not a bad DIY if you want to attempt it.
shalmaneser said:
This is almost certainly the 'Y cable' which is a cable that runs from the alternator to the starter to the battery post in the engine bay. It's a common failure that these corrode and as you say heat from running the engine increases the resistance leading to embarrassment on the petrol forecourt.
It's not a bad DIY if you want to attempt it.
The Y-cable was replaced not all that long ago... It's not a bad DIY if you want to attempt it.
s94wht said:
There are a few minor but far from show-shopping jobs that need doing to it
The window regulator isnt a bad job. I did mine in around 90 minutes ,that said I could probably do it in an hour now I know how the door is put together. I'd do it sooner rather than later. Mine let go when we had the real cold snap in January. I only used the car once and the wires were already wrapped around the motor spindle. No damage was done but I think it would have damaged to motor spindle if I kept using the car. The motors are a lot more expensive to replace vs the regulators!- new window regulator (purchased but not fitted) - the driver's window isn't dropping properly
- new door lock assembly - even if the window was dropping properly, it wouldn't stay open with the door
Crudeoink said:
The window regulator isnt a bad job. I did mine in around 90 minutes ,that said I could probably do it in an hour now I know how the door is put together. I'd do it sooner rather than later. Mine let go when we had the real cold snap in January. I only used the car once and the wires were already wrapped around the motor spindle. No damage was done but I think it would have damaged to motor spindle if I kept using the car. The motors are a lot more expensive to replace vs the regulators!
Probably going to try and give it a go in the next week or two 
s94wht said:
shalmaneser said:
This is almost certainly the 'Y cable' which is a cable that runs from the alternator to the starter to the battery post in the engine bay. It's a common failure that these corrode and as you say heat from running the engine increases the resistance leading to embarrassment on the petrol forecourt.
It's not a bad DIY if you want to attempt it.
The Y-cable was replaced not all that long ago... It's not a bad DIY if you want to attempt it.
White-Noise said:
Very nice. I've a real soft spot for these especially with the gen 1 engines fizz. It feels great. I drive a gti but I never got brave enough for the 997.
Thank you very much. The GTI was (is) a fantastic car and I had no need to change, just want. If the 911 doesn't work out I might well go back to a GTI, they're just so good RS Grant said:
Looks great, nice spec too. 
I also took the plunge into 911 ownership recently after waiting a long time to do so and even if I encounter some niggles here and there, I won't regret it at all.. it's really living up to my expectations.
That's what I thought. Life's too short I also took the plunge into 911 ownership recently after waiting a long time to do so and even if I encounter some niggles here and there, I won't regret it at all.. it's really living up to my expectations.
Bit of a disaster with the car today. Went to replace the window regulator/door lock assembly, got everything out of the door to the point of removing the metal "skin", and found that all the screws are RIDICULOUSLY tight. One of them stripped straight away. Starting running out of light so I put everything back together.
Unfortunately, part of the old regulator came apart when taking the glass out. I therefore didn't feel comfortable plugging the motor back in, because it would be trying to wind the window all the time when opening and closing the door. Trouble is, with some of it not connected in there, I now have TWO non-functioning windows! Also, a message on the dash "System fault, visit workshop," and the drivers door doesn't lock.
To top it off, the door panel isn't clipped on properly. I don't think it was in the first place, it came off very easily and I couldn't figure out how to clip it on. I suspect someone has been in there before. Maybe that's why all the bolts are too tight?
Why can't anything ever be simple?!
Unfortunately, part of the old regulator came apart when taking the glass out. I therefore didn't feel comfortable plugging the motor back in, because it would be trying to wind the window all the time when opening and closing the door. Trouble is, with some of it not connected in there, I now have TWO non-functioning windows! Also, a message on the dash "System fault, visit workshop," and the drivers door doesn't lock.
To top it off, the door panel isn't clipped on properly. I don't think it was in the first place, it came off very easily and I couldn't figure out how to clip it on. I suspect someone has been in there before. Maybe that's why all the bolts are too tight?
Why can't anything ever be simple?!
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