Discussion
After much research and guidance from the PH-faithful, I had my new Mk2 Audi TTS delivered today. First the facts:
- 2008 manual in Silver
- 94,000 miles
- Cruise, air-con, DRL, Pioneer blue-tooth, heated seats
In really nice condition for it's age - the alloys in particular are absolutely spotless (an early warning was issued to the wife to keep them that way
). There are a few marks here and there and a tiny bit of blistering on the front arches but nothing I am too worried about at this stage.
Dealer did a cambelt and water-pump change for me, replaced the radiator and ran a 12 month MOT which came up clean. Now it's been dropped off and I am pleased as punch!
Obligatory photos:
All 4 alloys are this good:
Interior has aged pretty well for a 16 year old car:
I plan to use this car as it should be used as regularly as possible, and I'm not one for creating garage queens....however I intend to give this a good life where time and funds allow.
First up will be to take it to my trusted local garage and get all fluids done that haven't been done for a while (full oil service was done Oct 23) - Haldex fluid and filter, brake fluid, fuel filter. Then I plan to replace the cam follower myself as looks like one of the more straight-forward preventative maintenance tasks...
Next up will be to tackle a few things so any pointers welcome!
The number plate mount at the front is really crappy with rusted and cracked mounting caps and a faded decal of the original Audi group name..
Extend of wheel arch bubbling - not worrying about it now but will monitor.
Any advice on how to polish my tips back to former glory?
Best interior leather treatment? The "grey" has gone a bit yellow over time - give it a good shampoo with clean creamer and then some leather feed?
The underside of the car has a fair bit of surface rust but is solid and the workshop / MOT didn't pick up anything sinister. I don't have access to a garage or ramps, but it is feasible / worthwhile to get the car up on axle-stands and try and slap on as much dinitrol / waxoyl as possible on as many of the metal frame bits I can access?
This is just an annoyance - the TTS badge on the steering wheel is all worn...guessing these are not cheap to source or replace but any ideas?
And lastly (apologies for the long list)...any idea what might have caused these weird patches on the rear windscreen?
Will try and keep this up to date including how it holds up as a secondary family car
- taking the eldest out now for his maiden voyage.
- 2008 manual in Silver
- 94,000 miles
- Cruise, air-con, DRL, Pioneer blue-tooth, heated seats
In really nice condition for it's age - the alloys in particular are absolutely spotless (an early warning was issued to the wife to keep them that way
). There are a few marks here and there and a tiny bit of blistering on the front arches but nothing I am too worried about at this stage. Dealer did a cambelt and water-pump change for me, replaced the radiator and ran a 12 month MOT which came up clean. Now it's been dropped off and I am pleased as punch!
Obligatory photos:
All 4 alloys are this good:
Interior has aged pretty well for a 16 year old car:
I plan to use this car as it should be used as regularly as possible, and I'm not one for creating garage queens....however I intend to give this a good life where time and funds allow.
First up will be to take it to my trusted local garage and get all fluids done that haven't been done for a while (full oil service was done Oct 23) - Haldex fluid and filter, brake fluid, fuel filter. Then I plan to replace the cam follower myself as looks like one of the more straight-forward preventative maintenance tasks...
Next up will be to tackle a few things so any pointers welcome!
The number plate mount at the front is really crappy with rusted and cracked mounting caps and a faded decal of the original Audi group name..
Extend of wheel arch bubbling - not worrying about it now but will monitor.
Any advice on how to polish my tips back to former glory?
Best interior leather treatment? The "grey" has gone a bit yellow over time - give it a good shampoo with clean creamer and then some leather feed?
The underside of the car has a fair bit of surface rust but is solid and the workshop / MOT didn't pick up anything sinister. I don't have access to a garage or ramps, but it is feasible / worthwhile to get the car up on axle-stands and try and slap on as much dinitrol / waxoyl as possible on as many of the metal frame bits I can access?
This is just an annoyance - the TTS badge on the steering wheel is all worn...guessing these are not cheap to source or replace but any ideas?
And lastly (apologies for the long list)...any idea what might have caused these weird patches on the rear windscreen?
Will try and keep this up to date including how it holds up as a secondary family car
- taking the eldest out now for his maiden voyage.cerb4.5lee said:
Nice one. Enjoy it. 
I always use Autosol metal polish on my exhaust tips.
Yours brings back memories of our old one.
Lovely in black, very nice! Silver is pretty boring (and our family car is silver too I always use Autosol metal polish on my exhaust tips.
Yours brings back memories of our old one.
) but actually think it suits the TTS well.Thanks for the tip on the Autosol will check it out.
For the badge you could try Crewe Audi..I used them for a number of badges/rings etc when I did mine up a few years ago..the guys name was Tom if my memory is correct..not sure if he’s still there
Or of course eBay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204148936069?mkcid=16&a...
Or of course eBay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204148936069?mkcid=16&a...
Congratulations. That's a good find and a great package for the money.
I had some luck with Bar Keepers Fried and some 000 wire wool on my 8S TTS exhaust tips, but they were too far gone in the end to match the condition of the rest of the car. You may find a perfectly acceptable result with the same approach, but be warned it took a long time! The tips should pull off - wear some gardening gloves, and be prepared to tap them from behind if necessary.
I had some luck with Bar Keepers Fried and some 000 wire wool on my 8S TTS exhaust tips, but they were too far gone in the end to match the condition of the rest of the car. You may find a perfectly acceptable result with the same approach, but be warned it took a long time! The tips should pull off - wear some gardening gloves, and be prepared to tap them from behind if necessary.
A week in to ownership and the TTS has been a solid workhorse for the family - successfully navigated a trip to Stevenage with the wife and littlest one, slid a bedside table in next to him and on we went. Big cricket bag and football kit in the boot, no problem.
...then, beep. First orange warning light for low oil! A bit annoying given I checked it when I first went to look and it was ok, god knows what the workshop did to it in the interim! One to keep an eye on but all topped up with Castrol Edge 5w 30 and we are back to equilibrium.
Fuel economy seems bearable.
Leather seats treated with Gliptone Liquid Leather and conditioner today - definitely look less dull and smell lovely now:
Noticed this:
which I gather is a common issue so will be added to the list of "to do's" - wire wool and Autosol on the exhaust tips is next.
It passed the most important test today - can my idiot brother-in-law fit in the boot? Yes he can.
Oh, and I bloody love this car.
...then, beep. First orange warning light for low oil! A bit annoying given I checked it when I first went to look and it was ok, god knows what the workshop did to it in the interim! One to keep an eye on but all topped up with Castrol Edge 5w 30 and we are back to equilibrium.
Fuel economy seems bearable.
Leather seats treated with Gliptone Liquid Leather and conditioner today - definitely look less dull and smell lovely now:
Noticed this:
which I gather is a common issue so will be added to the list of "to do's" - wire wool and Autosol on the exhaust tips is next.
It passed the most important test today - can my idiot brother-in-law fit in the boot? Yes he can.
Oh, and I bloody love this car.
Boring post alert.
Treated the TTS to a nice heavy duty boot liner to protect the "soft" interior from getting wet whenever I open the boot when it's rained! Plus football boots, cricket paraphernalia etc.
Black is a bit of clash with the grey interior but hey, it's the boot and protection was the priority.
Treated the TTS to a nice heavy duty boot liner to protect the "soft" interior from getting wet whenever I open the boot when it's rained! Plus football boots, cricket paraphernalia etc.
Black is a bit of clash with the grey interior but hey, it's the boot and protection was the priority.
MisanoPayments said:
Nice car!
For the seats and steering wheel (and door cards?) I'd recommended Dr Leather wipes. For your first go on the steering wheel, after wiping, I'd leave a few wipes wrapped around it for ten mins or so.
Then wipe with a clean damp cloth.
Also don't use any feed or cream, the leather in almost every car on the road is coated and cannot absord anything or get 'fed" so the cleaner just stays on the surface making it look shiny and attracting dirt. Matte leather is clean leather, shiny is not how it's supposed to look.For the seats and steering wheel (and door cards?) I'd recommended Dr Leather wipes. For your first go on the steering wheel, after wiping, I'd leave a few wipes wrapped around it for ten mins or so.
Then wipe with a clean damp cloth.
Lots of guides out there from proper leather companies, and there is a poster on here who does restoration and leatherwork for a living who recommended the Dr Leather stuff for sealed leather.
Most leather cleaners and a soft bristle detailing brush will do the trick on newer seats like these. As someone else mentioned, leather feed doesn't really do anything unless you're trying to improve a set of 200,000 mile seats from a Golf Mk V.
Another vote for the Autosol from me as well. I had a pleasure of de-chavving a 2003 Vauxhall Corsa Automatic (yes, a rudeboy exhaust found its way onto a torque converter), and when I sold the exhaust I had a lot of fun tarting it up...
That was literally just autosol, applied with a rag, buffed off with a microfibre.
Another vote for the Autosol from me as well. I had a pleasure of de-chavving a 2003 Vauxhall Corsa Automatic (yes, a rudeboy exhaust found its way onto a torque converter), and when I sold the exhaust I had a lot of fun tarting it up...
That was literally just autosol, applied with a rag, buffed off with a microfibre.
GeniusOfLove said:
Also don't use any feed or cream, the leather in almost every car on the road is coated and cannot absord anything or get 'fed" so the cleaner just stays on the surface making it look shiny and attracting dirt. Matte leather is clean leather, shiny is not how it's supposed to look.
Lots of guides out there from proper leather companies, and there is a poster on here who does restoration and leatherwork for a living who recommended the Dr Leather stuff for sealed leather.
Bummer too late - used the Gliptone Liquid Leather last week...seemed to come up ok and smells nice now Lots of guides out there from proper leather companies, and there is a poster on here who does restoration and leatherwork for a living who recommended the Dr Leather stuff for sealed leather.
.The Bearded Tit said:
Most leather cleaners and a soft bristle detailing brush will do the trick on newer seats like these. As someone else mentioned, leather feed doesn't really do anything unless you're trying to improve a set of 200,000 mile seats from a Golf Mk V.
Another vote for the Autosol from me as well. I had a pleasure of de-chavving a 2003 Vauxhall Corsa Automatic (yes, a rudeboy exhaust found its way onto a torque converter), and when I sold the exhaust I had a lot of fun tarting it up...
That was literally just autosol, applied with a rag, buffed off with a microfibre.
Wow that is impressive. Not had a chance to do mine yet but will do some before and after shots - hoping they will be similar to yours!!Another vote for the Autosol from me as well. I had a pleasure of de-chavving a 2003 Vauxhall Corsa Automatic (yes, a rudeboy exhaust found its way onto a torque converter), and when I sold the exhaust I had a lot of fun tarting it up...
That was literally just autosol, applied with a rag, buffed off with a microfibre.
GeniusOfLove said:
MisanoPayments said:
Nice car!
For the seats and steering wheel (and door cards?) I'd recommended Dr Leather wipes. For your first go on the steering wheel, after wiping, I'd leave a few wipes wrapped around it for ten mins or so.
Then wipe with a clean damp cloth.
Also don't use any feed or cream, the leather in almost every car on the road is coated and cannot absord anything or get 'fed" so the cleaner just stays on the surface making it look shiny and attracting dirt. Matte leather is clean leather, shiny is not how it's supposed to look.For the seats and steering wheel (and door cards?) I'd recommended Dr Leather wipes. For your first go on the steering wheel, after wiping, I'd leave a few wipes wrapped around it for ten mins or so.
Then wipe with a clean damp cloth.
Lots of guides out there from proper leather companies, and there is a poster on here who does restoration and leatherwork for a living who recommended the Dr Leather stuff for sealed leather.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DETAIL-GEAR-Scrub-Ninja-P...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autoglym-AG-215007-Leathe...
Bucket of clean warm water and some generic microfibre towels too.
Spray leather cleaner liberally onto offending surface and scrub in circular motions with one of the above pads. It should lather up slightly. For the steering wheel and gear knob you can 'wrap' the pad around and twist it to get a good scrubbing motion. Once you're happy an area is well scrubbed wipe the cleaner off with a damp microfibre and wring it out in your bucket. You'll be impressed by quite how much crud this method lifts from a "clean" interior. The colour the water goes after cleaning your steering wheel will make you heave.
Done well the leather will go back to its factory satin appearance and lose the shine of years of dirt and cheap sprays/cleaners.
So between meetings this morning I had a crack on the exhaust tips with the Autosol. You will recall from the first pics how bad they looked, particularly the right side where the valve opens and closes:
Step one was give everything a good spray with Elbow Grease, leave for 5 mins and then scrub away with an old toilet brush. I got absolutely covered in crap!
Step two a rinse over with washing mitt and a bit of Dodo Juice car shampoo, dry everything off.
Step three ruin my arm with some solid scrubbing using wire wool and the Autosol, followed by an application of the polish with a microfibre cloth, finishing off with a good buff.
Overall pleased with the results but will need to give the right hand side another pass - not sure how to get the really baked on and sticky chunks off...careful stabbing with a fine screwdriver??
Step one was give everything a good spray with Elbow Grease, leave for 5 mins and then scrub away with an old toilet brush. I got absolutely covered in crap!
Step two a rinse over with washing mitt and a bit of Dodo Juice car shampoo, dry everything off.
Step three ruin my arm with some solid scrubbing using wire wool and the Autosol, followed by an application of the polish with a microfibre cloth, finishing off with a good buff.
Overall pleased with the results but will need to give the right hand side another pass - not sure how to get the really baked on and sticky chunks off...careful stabbing with a fine screwdriver??
Edited by Legend83 on Thursday 16th May 12:35
cerb4.5lee said:
You've done a really good job there I reckon. I used to have a right battle with mine at times as well, and it was one of the worst cars I've had for blackening the tips for some reason.
Polished tips do always look ace though for sure.
Direct injection makes a lot more soot than port injection on petrol engines, I imagine that's it. Polished tips do always look ace though for sure.
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