Thirsty Discovery and Z4 thread
Discussion
Hi folks. I'm planning to dip my toe in the LR waters with an L322 petrol (probably a 4.4 at my budget of £8k).
I'm not expecting to buy a perfect car, but as an LR layman I'd prefer to go in with my eyes open if I can.
Does anyone know of a specialist (or individual) who offers a PPI service for cars of this age, with a slight bias towards Southern and Eastern England? (obviously I'd expect to cover any travel costs)
I think I have a good independent garage identified near to me who will be able to maintain the thing, but they don't tend to offer a PPI service on older cars.
I'm not looking for a fully warrantied/insured style of inspection, but more of a general condition report that would indicate where I'm likely to need to spend money in the near future (and to corroborate any seller claims).
Of course the option exists to buy from a dealer and take straight to a specialist for inspection, and use the Consumer Rights protection in place to remedy any major faults I'd missed. But I felt like a bit of up-front expense could potentially save a lot of post-purchase hassle.
Any advice appreciated.
I'm not expecting to buy a perfect car, but as an LR layman I'd prefer to go in with my eyes open if I can.
Does anyone know of a specialist (or individual) who offers a PPI service for cars of this age, with a slight bias towards Southern and Eastern England? (obviously I'd expect to cover any travel costs)
I think I have a good independent garage identified near to me who will be able to maintain the thing, but they don't tend to offer a PPI service on older cars.
I'm not looking for a fully warrantied/insured style of inspection, but more of a general condition report that would indicate where I'm likely to need to spend money in the near future (and to corroborate any seller claims).
Of course the option exists to buy from a dealer and take straight to a specialist for inspection, and use the Consumer Rights protection in place to remedy any major faults I'd missed. But I felt like a bit of up-front expense could potentially save a lot of post-purchase hassle.
Any advice appreciated.
Expect to pay between £100-200 for a vehicle like that. What you want is someone who is willing to talk to you on the phone after and not all the companies offer that.
£8k should et you a reasonable pre facelift TDV8 and you aren't at the bottom of the barrel price wise, that that is a good start.
LRs are wonderful (When they work)
Key things to get the inspector to check is:
- Does everything work as it should (I would not expect everything to work)
- Pay special attention to the gearboxes. Its a LR so its a notorious weak spot. Does high/low range work?
- Any sign of water ingress in the rear compartments (Known to truly screw up many things on L322s)
Service history is critical. Try and get something where the Turbos have been done as you are £3k in for that work. Gearbox is about £2.5k all in. Brucey bonus if you can find something that has had both items done, but they usually sell very quickly in my experience.
Check the radio works as that can be a royal pain to sort out and can sometimes be linked to water ingress as water leaks where the amp sits for the stereo (I think)
£8k should et you a reasonable pre facelift TDV8 and you aren't at the bottom of the barrel price wise, that that is a good start.
LRs are wonderful (When they work)
Key things to get the inspector to check is:
- Does everything work as it should (I would not expect everything to work)
- Pay special attention to the gearboxes. Its a LR so its a notorious weak spot. Does high/low range work?
- Any sign of water ingress in the rear compartments (Known to truly screw up many things on L322s)
Service history is critical. Try and get something where the Turbos have been done as you are £3k in for that work. Gearbox is about £2.5k all in. Brucey bonus if you can find something that has had both items done, but they usually sell very quickly in my experience.
Check the radio works as that can be a royal pain to sort out and can sometimes be linked to water ingress as water leaks where the amp sits for the stereo (I think)
Deranged Rover said:
The only advice i can offer is don't buy a 4.4!
Why not ? Much better than the 3.6 - or are you advising sticking to petrol ?There's a very comprehensive buyers guide here - https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post189410.html#18...
I would recommend going for the diesel rather than the petrol, they are fast enough and can tow a house and are not that noisy etc.
As above, check the turbos have been done, they go at around 130k and can either just gum up or lunch the engine!
Also check the milage, a lot have been clocked - my 4.4 went with 125k on it and showed up with 45k at next MoT, it will be expensive for someone when the turbos go!
As above, check the turbos have been done, they go at around 130k and can either just gum up or lunch the engine!
Also check the milage, a lot have been clocked - my 4.4 went with 125k on it and showed up with 45k at next MoT, it will be expensive for someone when the turbos go!
I was looking for a 3.6 but just couldn't stomach the inevitable £2k+ bill when the turbo goes - which it will. The difference in MPG between the 4.4 and the 4.2 S/C is minimal so I went with the 4.2 S/C.
I looked at 4 cars before buying mine - the quality is highly "variable" out there. For me the key things are:
1. Rust on the door sills and wheel arches. Not cheap to fix if it has taken hold
2. Check air suspension goes up and down without any warning messages and the car is level on the flat
3. Get the car up to motorway speed and as it is going between 55-60 miles an hour listen out for the feeling of going over a cattle grid. If it rumbles it could be the torque converter giving up
I looked at 4 cars before buying mine - the quality is highly "variable" out there. For me the key things are:
1. Rust on the door sills and wheel arches. Not cheap to fix if it has taken hold
2. Check air suspension goes up and down without any warning messages and the car is level on the flat
3. Get the car up to motorway speed and as it is going between 55-60 miles an hour listen out for the feeling of going over a cattle grid. If it rumbles it could be the torque converter giving up
Carbon Sasquatch said:
Why not ? Much better than the 3.6 - or are you advising sticking to petrol ?
There's a very comprehensive buyers guide here - https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post189410.html#18...
The OP said he wanted a petrol L322 so my comment was aimed at the BMW 4.4 petrol V8.There's a very comprehensive buyers guide here - https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post189410.html#18...
I have no opinion to offer on the diesels as I've never had one!
Sorry - I'd missed the petrol bit in the original post.
I thought the 4.4 petrol was OK, but clearly the 4.2SC was better.
There was also a Jag 4.4 for a short while around the facelift period, but I have never had one.
I quite liked the 3.6 TDV8 at the time, but no way I'd buy one now due to the number of catastrophic failures. You're better off living with the (lack of) economy with the 4.2 than the risk of engine failure IMHO.
I thought the 4.4 petrol was OK, but clearly the 4.2SC was better.
There was also a Jag 4.4 for a short while around the facelift period, but I have never had one.
I quite liked the 3.6 TDV8 at the time, but no way I'd buy one now due to the number of catastrophic failures. You're better off living with the (lack of) economy with the 4.2 than the risk of engine failure IMHO.
Carbon Sasquatch said:
I quite liked the 3.6 TDV8 at the time, but no way I'd buy one now due to the number of catastrophic failures. You're better off living with the (lack of) economy with the 4.2 than the risk of engine failure IMHO.
TBH - It's not quite "engine failure"... It's a turbo failure.Granted, the turbos are 'robustly priced' but once swapped out, the engine is fine.
M
Hello C70R, this is my thread on the £3,600 AJV8 FFRR. We love it.
Zerosumgame said:
I was looking for a 3.6 but just couldn't stomach the inevitable £2k+ bill when the turbo goes - which it will. The difference in MPG between the 4.4 and the 4.2 S/C is minimal so I went with the 4.2 S/C.
I looked at 4 cars before buying mine - the quality is highly "variable" out there. For me the key things are:
1. Rust on the door sills and wheel arches. Not cheap to fix if it has taken hold
2. Check air suspension goes up and down without any warning messages and the car is level on the flat
3. Get the car up to motorway speed and as it is going between 55-60 miles an hour listen out for the feeling of going over a cattle grid. If it rumbles it could be the torque converter giving up
Fluctuation of the revs at motorway speed is also an early indicator of the TC being on its way out too. I looked at 4 cars before buying mine - the quality is highly "variable" out there. For me the key things are:
1. Rust on the door sills and wheel arches. Not cheap to fix if it has taken hold
2. Check air suspension goes up and down without any warning messages and the car is level on the flat
3. Get the car up to motorway speed and as it is going between 55-60 miles an hour listen out for the feeling of going over a cattle grid. If it rumbles it could be the torque converter giving up
So, after all that, can anyone actually help me find someone to do a PPI on a petrol L322? 
(But seriously, it wouldn't be PH if every post on the thread wasn't completely off-topic and telling me to buy something else)
I'm going to look at a privately listed 2005 4.2 this evening, which sounds promising apart from the small issue of current drain...
I'm also looking at a few 2007-on facelift petrol Cayennes, as prices have tumbled back towards pre-covid levels. Even though they aren't as big or as cosseting as an L322, conventional wisdom seems to suggest they are a bit more robust and reliable.
(But seriously, it wouldn't be PH if every post on the thread wasn't completely off-topic and telling me to buy something else)
I'm going to look at a privately listed 2005 4.2 this evening, which sounds promising apart from the small issue of current drain...
I'm also looking at a few 2007-on facelift petrol Cayennes, as prices have tumbled back towards pre-covid levels. Even though they aren't as big or as cosseting as an L322, conventional wisdom seems to suggest they are a bit more robust and reliable.
Carbon Sasquatch said:
Why not ? Much better than the 3.6 - or are you advising sticking to petrol ?
There's a very comprehensive buyers guide here - https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post189410.html#18...
Hadn't spotted that on my travels. Mega helpful. Thank you!There's a very comprehensive buyers guide here - https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post189410.html#18...
bolidemichael said:
Hello C70R, this is my thread on the £3,600 AJV8 FFRR. We love it.
Even though this is 2nd/3rd car, you're far braver than I. Current drain will almost certainly be the FSR - which is a c.£30 part and an hour max to change on your drive.
C70R said:
So, after all that, can anyone actually help me find someone to do a PPI on a petrol L322?
(But seriously, it wouldn't be PH if every post on the thread wasn't completely off-topic and telling me to buy something else)
I'm going to look at a privately listed 2005 4.2 this evening, which sounds promising apart from the small issue of current drain...
I'm also looking at a few 2007-on facelift petrol Cayennes, as prices have tumbled back towards pre-covid levels. Even though they aren't as big or as cosseting as an L322, conventional wisdom seems to suggest they are a bit more robust and reliable.
(But seriously, it wouldn't be PH if every post on the thread wasn't completely off-topic and telling me to buy something else)
I'm going to look at a privately listed 2005 4.2 this evening, which sounds promising apart from the small issue of current drain...
I'm also looking at a few 2007-on facelift petrol Cayennes, as prices have tumbled back towards pre-covid levels. Even though they aren't as big or as cosseting as an L322, conventional wisdom seems to suggest they are a bit more robust and reliable.
camel_landy said:
Zerosumgame said:
Current drain will almost certainly be the FSR - which is a c.£30 part and an hour max to change on your drive.
It can also be something as simple as a corroded micro-switch on one of the doors, preventing the ECU from going to 'sleep'.M
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