Full Fat Range Rover Vogue SE (2010 L322, TDV8)
Discussion
I've been a fan of the L322 since they appeared in 2001, coming close to buying an early BMW-engined 4.4 petrol V8 a few years back when they were in shed territory. Whilst on holiday earlier this year I did some man maths and decided now is the time to scratch the itch, and with no particular rush to buy one, time was on my side to find the spec and condition I wanted - late/2010-MY, not silver, black or grey, and a Vogue SE with as many toys possible. Usually I couldn't care less about colours and trim, but for some reason felt quite strongly this time out.
I travelled around locally looking at a few, checked-out a few specialists stock, kept an eye on the forums and after a while found the one below.
2010 3.6TDV8
Vogue SE with most stuff ticked - adaptive cruise, surround cameras, double glazing, high beam assist, cooled and heated seats, that funky dual-view TV thing, and lots of other stuff I don't need.
Most importantly it's Nara Brown - a lovely turd-rolled-in-glitter colour:
Inside is Ivory leather throughout, which looks like it'll be hilariously good fun trying to keep clean.
The first morning with the car got off to a flying-start with a dead battery, caused by me leaving an OBD tool plugged in unintentionally overnight. A cheap Aldi 5A smart charger revived the battery:
(Note 2x4" wood holding the bonnet up for good measure too).
The car's done 159k miles so lots of bits to do to keep it running sweet - anyone's who seen my Volvo XC70 thread will know I'm not shy of high miles and DIY maintenance. Stay tuned for a similar style of documenting fixes, maintenance and general farting around on the Range Rover.
I travelled around locally looking at a few, checked-out a few specialists stock, kept an eye on the forums and after a while found the one below.
2010 3.6TDV8
Vogue SE with most stuff ticked - adaptive cruise, surround cameras, double glazing, high beam assist, cooled and heated seats, that funky dual-view TV thing, and lots of other stuff I don't need.
Most importantly it's Nara Brown - a lovely turd-rolled-in-glitter colour:
Inside is Ivory leather throughout, which looks like it'll be hilariously good fun trying to keep clean.
The first morning with the car got off to a flying-start with a dead battery, caused by me leaving an OBD tool plugged in unintentionally overnight. A cheap Aldi 5A smart charger revived the battery:
(Note 2x4" wood holding the bonnet up for good measure too).
The car's done 159k miles so lots of bits to do to keep it running sweet - anyone's who seen my Volvo XC70 thread will know I'm not shy of high miles and DIY maintenance. Stay tuned for a similar style of documenting fixes, maintenance and general farting around on the Range Rover.
Lovely colour... ...and Ivory leather is surprisingly resistant to dirt generally, or so I've found (no family/passengers though). I've had my XK (black over Ivory) for around 7 years now and only in the past year it really needed a clean and a touch of colour restoration after taking a spent pair of rear tyres to the local waste recycling centre (one in the boot and one in the rear in a nice thick polyethylene bag). Though I wished I'd cleaned the steering wheel (much) earlier 
Welcome to FFRR ownership.
Love the colour and spec.
Top tip if you discconnect the gas struts on the bonnet and unclip the do dahs either side you can get the bonnet to go vertical, bit easier for battery access.
Regardless of where its come from get a new battery and doubly make sure all that ICE gubbins on the rear port side is covered with something waterproof..
These are fab cars if you can them in a good steady state
Love the colour and spec.
Top tip if you discconnect the gas struts on the bonnet and unclip the do dahs either side you can get the bonnet to go vertical, bit easier for battery access.
Regardless of where its come from get a new battery and doubly make sure all that ICE gubbins on the rear port side is covered with something waterproof..
These are fab cars if you can them in a good steady state
Thanks all! I'm just happy it's not black, silver or grey.
Good tips on bonnet service position, nearside rear wetness and the ivory interior
First job for all cars new to me is a basic service. Cue a shop around for bits - the local GSF coming up trumps:
The sump takes 9.5L and the oil filter is a good 8" long, so I'm hopeful for longevity of the engine. Service intervals in the history suggest oil changed every 12k miles or so.
Oil dropped in to a large plastic bowl, then drained away in to a 25L container which gets periodically emptied at the local tip:
(Driveway is wet as after initially releasing the sump plug I found that oil goes everywhere - over the top of the subframe, the forward undertray and ultimately the drive. A rapid deployment of the hosepipe was in order)
Air filter is also reassuringly massive. Here's the new one in, I subsequently removed it all so I could get access to the fuel filter (white, in background):
Fuel filter has a plastic lock ring holding it on. The was a laborious PITA to try and remove by hand - found an oil filter wrench in the garage to crack it off:
And the pollen filter. More acreage of consumable - this pops in that flap in background on scuttle:
And voila! A basic service done. The oil filter that came out was also a MANN item, with manufacturing date 12.01.20, which tailies well with the service history; last changed mid 2020 at 151k miles.
Final order of the day was a wash down of the engine and wipe over the vanity covers. Not too shabby at all...
Good tips on bonnet service position, nearside rear wetness and the ivory interior
First job for all cars new to me is a basic service. Cue a shop around for bits - the local GSF coming up trumps:
The sump takes 9.5L and the oil filter is a good 8" long, so I'm hopeful for longevity of the engine. Service intervals in the history suggest oil changed every 12k miles or so.
Oil dropped in to a large plastic bowl, then drained away in to a 25L container which gets periodically emptied at the local tip:
(Driveway is wet as after initially releasing the sump plug I found that oil goes everywhere - over the top of the subframe, the forward undertray and ultimately the drive. A rapid deployment of the hosepipe was in order)
Air filter is also reassuringly massive. Here's the new one in, I subsequently removed it all so I could get access to the fuel filter (white, in background):
Fuel filter has a plastic lock ring holding it on. The was a laborious PITA to try and remove by hand - found an oil filter wrench in the garage to crack it off:
And the pollen filter. More acreage of consumable - this pops in that flap in background on scuttle:
And voila! A basic service done. The oil filter that came out was also a MANN item, with manufacturing date 12.01.20, which tailies well with the service history; last changed mid 2020 at 151k miles.
Final order of the day was a wash down of the engine and wipe over the vanity covers. Not too shabby at all...
Accelebrate said:
It’s always reassuring to find a decent quality set of filters in a new purchase. I’m guessing the RR is too bulky to get inside your garage?
Agreed!I think it'll go in with the suspension lowered in 'access mode' which gives a roof height of around 1.8m. This then gives the potential to lift the car 600mm on the ramps, to joist height (2.4m). Whether there's then any usable room around the car I'm not sure - I might just wheel the lift out on to the drive if I need to do anything invasive underneath.
Diagnostics -
There's an excellent product on the market called IID, made by a Canadian company 'Gap'. This is a bespoke OBD plug-in module with bluetooth connectivity, and an app, to connect to all the modules on the car and interrogate, view live data, log and configure. It's dealership level stuff, much like VIDA is to Volvo.
I had the foresight to buy one whilst searching for a Range Rover, and plugged it in to check codes, errors, etc where I could when viewing cars.
More recently I rejigged an old/obsolete iPad to run the app for some live data and logging.
No notable errors to report, one for a parking sensor and another for a parking camera.
I wanted to change the PAS fluid in the car - usually I do so by sucking out the reservoir's contents, refilling with new and then repeating 3 or 4 times over the course of a month or so. The idea being that the new fluid in the reservoir progressively mixes with old and eventually, after enough changes, you have fresh fluid. However I saw a post on another forum that looked like a neat way of replacing the whole system's contents by removing the return pipe to the reservoir and sucking the oil through the rack, cooler and pipework from there.
I made up some adaptors and bungs from a box of old hoses I have in the garage loft. Terrible picture but you can see the end of the vac pump tube in the return pipe, and a short length of pipe with a stainless bolt bunging the reservoir connection:
I duly pumped away, this cheap and cheerful vac pump has served me well over all manner of jobs for the past 15 yrs or so:
Once clear, I refilled the system with this PAS fluid from Westway - it's the correct fluid as specified by LR. The system took 1.75L once bled.
(Apologies for another terrible pic. I must have been shaking with all the excitement).
The fluid that came out was OK, but looked and smelled suspiciously like red ATF (the correct PSF fluid is green and smells much less sweet).
I made up some adaptors and bungs from a box of old hoses I have in the garage loft. Terrible picture but you can see the end of the vac pump tube in the return pipe, and a short length of pipe with a stainless bolt bunging the reservoir connection:
I duly pumped away, this cheap and cheerful vac pump has served me well over all manner of jobs for the past 15 yrs or so:
Once clear, I refilled the system with this PAS fluid from Westway - it's the correct fluid as specified by LR. The system took 1.75L once bled.
(Apologies for another terrible pic. I must have been shaking with all the excitement).
The fluid that came out was OK, but looked and smelled suspiciously like red ATF (the correct PSF fluid is green and smells much less sweet).
surveyor said:
Please stop this thread.
Under my old work mileage a Ranger Rover was suicide. Now I seem to be doing very few work miles.
A Range Rover would still be suicidal, but a bit of risk never hurt anyone....
And I love the colour by the way!
Under my old work mileage a Ranger Rover was suicide. Now I seem to be doing very few work miles.
A Range Rover would still be suicidal, but a bit of risk never hurt anyone....
And I love the colour by the way!
Apologies but I'm only just getting started (sorrynotsorry, etcs)...A couple of final mechanical 'bits' done to get the car up to scratch - front droplinks were noted in the last MOT as having some play but not a fail. I used the excuse to get the car jacked up on stands to have a good nose around:
Plenty of places to jack the car from and add axle stands. I lifted off the front subframe x-member and put stands on the rails adjacent to lower wishbones. The car has deployable sidesteps which appear to be another great way of unnecessarily draining the battery, and stop you from accessing the jackpoints on the sills.
All looking par for the course given the mileage. Droplinks took a handful of minutes to replace
I dropped the engine undertrays and gave the front end underside a thorough clean out/degrease/scrub. Once done it was then easier to see what was newish and what was original.
Very satisfying. Today's victims were just the droplinks. Rest of suspension looks adequately serviceable bar the lower balljoints which appear scabby but have no play (yet).
I have an 4.4 one of those. A 2011 Black with cream. They are a lovely thing to sit in. No big problems in 6 years.
Another vote for buying it a nice new battery. They can throw up some terrifying errors when it gets tired.
Oh and do the key thing. Best cheap upgrade ever. The original key almost needs wheels.
Another vote for buying it a nice new battery. They can throw up some terrifying errors when it gets tired.
Oh and do the key thing. Best cheap upgrade ever. The original key almost needs wheels.
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