Happy/ tatty winter fun Mk1 TT 225
Discussion
I don't like driving the 330Ci fun car on wet roads, because I don't want it to turn into another of the rusty ones, but in the winter months it always seems absurd to fire up the (sensible car) 550bhp 5 metre long estate to pop to the shops, therefore the only sensible thing to do would be to buy a TT as a winter runaround. Obviously, this is nonsense, and about a week ago I'd finally persuaded myself of that, and stopped looking at hundreds of adverts for TTs.
Immediately I'd decided this, eBay helpfully drew my attention to one that ticked most of my boxes, it had to be blue or green for a proper happy winter car, at least a 225, easy to get to for collection, and cheap in case I hate it or it breaks. The owner said there was no service history, but the timing belt and clutch had been done by the owner before him, the driver's window didn't close and the tracking was a bit off. But it was blue with silver leather, and just about 5-figure mileage. Half decent, or possibly just less honest, similar ones are advertised for £2500 upwards. I prevaricated up to the last minute then chucked in what I thought was an insultingly low bid, lost the auction by about 600 quid, to your usual zero-feedback knobber, who unsurprisingly vanished. Seller got back in touch, I rounded up my original bid to the next round number, everyone happy, hopped on the train:
So, yes, it's a bit of a silly gamble, it's a bit tatty in places, and there are one or two or six things definitely wrong with it, which we'll come to, and probably some others I haven't spotted yet, but it drove me 90 minutes home perfectly well, pretty comfortably (considering I'm a big bloke and it's a small car) and it shifts really well for 20 years old. Oh, and it's got a light-up sex toy instead of a gearstick.
Immediately I'd decided this, eBay helpfully drew my attention to one that ticked most of my boxes, it had to be blue or green for a proper happy winter car, at least a 225, easy to get to for collection, and cheap in case I hate it or it breaks. The owner said there was no service history, but the timing belt and clutch had been done by the owner before him, the driver's window didn't close and the tracking was a bit off. But it was blue with silver leather, and just about 5-figure mileage. Half decent, or possibly just less honest, similar ones are advertised for £2500 upwards. I prevaricated up to the last minute then chucked in what I thought was an insultingly low bid, lost the auction by about 600 quid, to your usual zero-feedback knobber, who unsurprisingly vanished. Seller got back in touch, I rounded up my original bid to the next round number, everyone happy, hopped on the train:
So, yes, it's a bit of a silly gamble, it's a bit tatty in places, and there are one or two or six things definitely wrong with it, which we'll come to, and probably some others I haven't spotted yet, but it drove me 90 minutes home perfectly well, pretty comfortably (considering I'm a big bloke and it's a small car) and it shifts really well for 20 years old. Oh, and it's got a light-up sex toy instead of a gearstick.
So, let's start with the good bits. Fluid levels were all good, battery is healthy, gearbox and engine seem really strong. I love the colours - Denim blue and Silver leather. Plenty of room in the cabin, once I managed to lower the seat, and a really usable boot. Lots of fun design touches but everything is intuitive and easy to use. Aftermarket stereo with bluetooth. LCD screen works great.
More neutral things: someone has evidently cared a lot about the car at some point, and expressed that care through the medium of shiny red plastic accoutrements - all very well-made but not very me - and the aforementioned light-up-sex-toy gearstick. Also, when collected the OSR tyre was visibly flat, and it turned out that the tyre pressures ranged from 56 psi to 13. I checked again 30 miles later in case the OSR had a puncture, but it seemed fine, so since I'm getting new tyres anyway, I've knocked that off the list of things to worry about.
Less good things, in approximate order. The driver's door didn't know when it was closed, meaning the window won't fully shut. I have temporarily fixed this by unplugging the sensor and persuading it that it's closed all the time instead, which at least keeps the rain out, and ordered a new latch.
The brakes are somewhere between not reassuring and actually scary. Seller did chuck in rear pads and discs, so they'll be getting fitted asap, and I'll flush the brake fluid too.
Then we come to what on my to-do list is categorised as "that f
king filter". It's got one of those aftermarket air filters, basically just wobbling around in the engine bay, making a really annoying noise as it bounces off the heatshield, which itself is loose and rattly. So that's on the list, and some stock air filter bits are on the way. Also, I've learned that I don't like induction noise.
Three other broad groups of concerns. 1. Rust. There's a bit of rust and some marks around the joins between the side skirts and the body, and a lot of rust on the inside bottom of the drivers door. 2. Plastic things: about half of the various plastic covers and undertrays are missing, and those which remain share a single fixing between all of them. At least that part is a cheap, easy fix, so a few eBay sellers have shifted a few bits of plastic this evening. 3. Noises. There's a creaky rattle somewhere in the back, possibly something to do with the parcel shelf, and a buzzy rattle in the engine bay which sounds like two things that aren't supposed to be touching but are. I'll come back to the latter once I've sorted out all the obvious loose and/ or annoying things in there.
More neutral things: someone has evidently cared a lot about the car at some point, and expressed that care through the medium of shiny red plastic accoutrements - all very well-made but not very me - and the aforementioned light-up-sex-toy gearstick. Also, when collected the OSR tyre was visibly flat, and it turned out that the tyre pressures ranged from 56 psi to 13. I checked again 30 miles later in case the OSR had a puncture, but it seemed fine, so since I'm getting new tyres anyway, I've knocked that off the list of things to worry about.
Less good things, in approximate order. The driver's door didn't know when it was closed, meaning the window won't fully shut. I have temporarily fixed this by unplugging the sensor and persuading it that it's closed all the time instead, which at least keeps the rain out, and ordered a new latch.
The brakes are somewhere between not reassuring and actually scary. Seller did chuck in rear pads and discs, so they'll be getting fitted asap, and I'll flush the brake fluid too.
Then we come to what on my to-do list is categorised as "that f
king filter". It's got one of those aftermarket air filters, basically just wobbling around in the engine bay, making a really annoying noise as it bounces off the heatshield, which itself is loose and rattly. So that's on the list, and some stock air filter bits are on the way. Also, I've learned that I don't like induction noise. Three other broad groups of concerns. 1. Rust. There's a bit of rust and some marks around the joins between the side skirts and the body, and a lot of rust on the inside bottom of the drivers door. 2. Plastic things: about half of the various plastic covers and undertrays are missing, and those which remain share a single fixing between all of them. At least that part is a cheap, easy fix, so a few eBay sellers have shifted a few bits of plastic this evening. 3. Noises. There's a creaky rattle somewhere in the back, possibly something to do with the parcel shelf, and a buzzy rattle in the engine bay which sounds like two things that aren't supposed to be touching but are. I'll come back to the latter once I've sorted out all the obvious loose and/ or annoying things in there.
Great price and these are cracking with a bit of a fettle. You can get pretty decent performance gains with just an entry-level remap.
Wanna stop that annoying rattle from the boot? Take out the parcel shelf and store it in the loft ready to fit when you sell the car.
You will never be able to stop the thing from moving about, flexing and making a noise. The parcel shelf is in two halves made out of two bits of cheap scratchy plastic. Even it you used a gallon of industrial-grade Sikaflex to bond the assembly into place on the tailgate, the two halves move and make scratchy, rattly noises anyway.
I spent way too much time trying to resolve the issue when I had mine, years ago, before realising it was a special design feature.
Wanna stop that annoying rattle from the boot? Take out the parcel shelf and store it in the loft ready to fit when you sell the car.
You will never be able to stop the thing from moving about, flexing and making a noise. The parcel shelf is in two halves made out of two bits of cheap scratchy plastic. Even it you used a gallon of industrial-grade Sikaflex to bond the assembly into place on the tailgate, the two halves move and make scratchy, rattly noises anyway.
I spent way too much time trying to resolve the issue when I had mine, years ago, before realising it was a special design feature.
Love man maths like this.
I started a new job in July, remote working so officially not even needed in the office when things get back to normal. So what does any normal person do when in such a position? Of course they sell a car as it won't be needed. I bought one with the logic that it'll be less disease ridden than the train if I do decide to do the office. And obviously it had to be mega economical for the 60 minute motorway run... supercharged Mini ticked the box!
I started a new job in July, remote working so officially not even needed in the office when things get back to normal. So what does any normal person do when in such a position? Of course they sell a car as it won't be needed. I bought one with the logic that it'll be less disease ridden than the train if I do decide to do the office. And obviously it had to be mega economical for the 60 minute motorway run... supercharged Mini ticked the box!
E63eeeeee... said:
So, let's start with the good bits. Fluid levels were all good, battery is healthy, gearbox and engine seem really strong. I love the colours - Denim blue and Silver leather. Plenty of room in the cabin, once I managed to lower the seat, and a really usable boot. Lots of fun design touches but everything is intuitive and easy to use. Aftermarket stereo with bluetooth. LCD screen works great.
More neutral things: someone has evidently cared a lot about the car at some point, and expressed that care through the medium of shiny red plastic accoutrements - all very well-made but not very me - and the aforementioned light-up-sex-toy gearstick. Also, when collected the OSR tyre was visibly flat, and it turned out that the tyre pressures ranged from 56 psi to 13. I checked again 30 miles later in case the OSR had a puncture, but it seemed fine, so since I'm getting new tyres anyway, I've knocked that off the list of things to worry about.
Less good things, in approximate order. The driver's door didn't know when it was closed, meaning the window won't fully shut. I have temporarily fixed this by unplugging the sensor and persuading it that it's closed all the time instead, which at least keeps the rain out, and ordered a new latch.
The brakes are somewhere between not reassuring and actually scary. Seller did chuck in rear pads and discs, so they'll be getting fitted asap, and I'll flush the brake fluid too.
Then we come to what on my to-do list is categorised as "that fking filter". It's got one of those aftermarket air filters, basically just wobbling around in the engine bay, making a really annoying noise as it bounces off the heatshield, which itself is loose and rattly. So that's on the list, and some stock air filter bits are on the way. Also, I've learned that I don't like induction noise.
Three other broad groups of concerns. 1. Rust. There's a bit of rust and some marks around the joins between the side skirts and the body, and a lot of rust on the inside bottom of the drivers door. 2. Plastic things: about half of the various plastic covers and undertrays are missing, and those which remain share a single fixing between all of them. At least that part is a cheap, easy fix, so a few eBay sellers have shifted a few bits of plastic this evening. 3. Noises. There's a creaky rattle somewhere in the back, possibly something to do with the parcel shelf, and a buzzy rattle in the engine bay which sounds like two things that aren't supposed to be touching but are. I'll come back to the latter once I've sorted out all the obvious loose and/ or annoying things in there.
The brakes are really decent to work on IME, and new decent discs and pads are cheap (£50/£25 for Mintex). Bleeding can be a swine, and may need the ABS pump to be cycled. Mine was very poor when I got it - full of air. Careful with the master cylinder - if it breaks, you usually have to drop the engine(!)More neutral things: someone has evidently cared a lot about the car at some point, and expressed that care through the medium of shiny red plastic accoutrements - all very well-made but not very me - and the aforementioned light-up-sex-toy gearstick. Also, when collected the OSR tyre was visibly flat, and it turned out that the tyre pressures ranged from 56 psi to 13. I checked again 30 miles later in case the OSR had a puncture, but it seemed fine, so since I'm getting new tyres anyway, I've knocked that off the list of things to worry about.
Less good things, in approximate order. The driver's door didn't know when it was closed, meaning the window won't fully shut. I have temporarily fixed this by unplugging the sensor and persuading it that it's closed all the time instead, which at least keeps the rain out, and ordered a new latch.
The brakes are somewhere between not reassuring and actually scary. Seller did chuck in rear pads and discs, so they'll be getting fitted asap, and I'll flush the brake fluid too.
Then we come to what on my to-do list is categorised as "that f
king filter". It's got one of those aftermarket air filters, basically just wobbling around in the engine bay, making a really annoying noise as it bounces off the heatshield, which itself is loose and rattly. So that's on the list, and some stock air filter bits are on the way. Also, I've learned that I don't like induction noise. Three other broad groups of concerns. 1. Rust. There's a bit of rust and some marks around the joins between the side skirts and the body, and a lot of rust on the inside bottom of the drivers door. 2. Plastic things: about half of the various plastic covers and undertrays are missing, and those which remain share a single fixing between all of them. At least that part is a cheap, easy fix, so a few eBay sellers have shifted a few bits of plastic this evening. 3. Noises. There's a creaky rattle somewhere in the back, possibly something to do with the parcel shelf, and a buzzy rattle in the engine bay which sounds like two things that aren't supposed to be touching but are. I'll come back to the latter once I've sorted out all the obvious loose and/ or annoying things in there.
Standard air filter is perfectly decent. Can be opened up a bit if you want.
Rust isn’t usually a big thing on them, but it can take hold under the sills, and in the suspension arms. They used excellent quality bolts and even when crusty should shift without snapping/rounding.
Undertray is near essential. Engine bay gets very messy quickly otherwise. The parcel shelves are creaky and many take them out entirely.
Drop the sump and clean/replace the oil strainer. It’s the best piece of work to do on the 1.8T. They’re tough if serviced and maintained, but if that blocks you have no chance to save the engine.
Well, I never imagined my little blue thing would generate so much interest, thanks to everyone for their positive vibes and reassurance about the man maths adding up. If Mrs E63 starts quibbling, I'm going to refer her to you lot.
Quick update, then I'll pick up some of the advice and suggestions. Did a couple of shortish local drives today, to give it a bit of a test on roads I know. The banging around that I'm assuming is the filter makes it hard to hear if anything else is off, but the idle is slightly lumpy, so that's spark plugs on the shopping list and
Suspension is a bit crashy, the ditchfinders are unsurprisingly crap, but they have enabled me to confirm the Haldex works without trying very hard at all. They're going anyway, so no bother there, and I'll be having a good prod around when I get the wheels off for the brakes. Steering is very slightly wonky to the left. It doesn't obviously pull, so can live with that for now.
Otherwise, no new issues, looks just as good with the lights on.
Quick update, then I'll pick up some of the advice and suggestions. Did a couple of shortish local drives today, to give it a bit of a test on roads I know. The banging around that I'm assuming is the filter makes it hard to hear if anything else is off, but the idle is slightly lumpy, so that's spark plugs on the shopping list and
Suspension is a bit crashy, the ditchfinders are unsurprisingly crap, but they have enabled me to confirm the Haldex works without trying very hard at all. They're going anyway, so no bother there, and I'll be having a good prod around when I get the wheels off for the brakes. Steering is very slightly wonky to the left. It doesn't obviously pull, so can live with that for now.
Otherwise, no new issues, looks just as good with the lights on.
lemansky said:
Great price and these are cracking with a bit of a fettle. You can get pretty decent performance gains with just an entry-level remap.
Wanna stop that annoying rattle from the boot? Take out the parcel shelf and store it in the loft ready to fit when you sell the car.
You will never be able to stop the thing from moving about, flexing and making a noise. The parcel shelf is in two halves made out of two bits of cheap scratchy plastic. Even it you used a gallon of industrial-grade Sikaflex to bond the assembly into place on the tailgate, the two halves move and make scratchy, rattly noises anyway.
I spent way too much time trying to resolve the issue when I had mine, years ago, before realising it was a special design feature.
That definitely sounds like a plan for the parcel shelf. Considering so much of the car is so well put together, it's properly cheap and nasty. I'm some way off considering spending remap money on it, but will keep that in mind. Thanks Wanna stop that annoying rattle from the boot? Take out the parcel shelf and store it in the loft ready to fit when you sell the car.
You will never be able to stop the thing from moving about, flexing and making a noise. The parcel shelf is in two halves made out of two bits of cheap scratchy plastic. Even it you used a gallon of industrial-grade Sikaflex to bond the assembly into place on the tailgate, the two halves move and make scratchy, rattly noises anyway.
I spent way too much time trying to resolve the issue when I had mine, years ago, before realising it was a special design feature.
Changing plugs is worthwhile, but if the coil packs are earlier than D revision or cheapo aftermarket ones, it’s more likely to be them. R8 CPs are a recommended upgrade too.
Plug under 4 (I think it is) is a pain as you have to remove the bolts for the vacuum tank for the DV and the N249 valve (the spaghetti on the cam cover!)
Plug under 4 (I think it is) is a pain as you have to remove the bolts for the vacuum tank for the DV and the N249 valve (the spaghetti on the cam cover!)
tintopracer said:
Keep looking at these as a winter hack too as quattro drive is needed, man maths says.
Strangely in my part of the world the convertible 225s are as cheap as the coupes at the moment.
Watching with interest what other bits of plastic break or squeak to distraction.
Yeah, I really wanted a convertible but there seemed to be very few in blue, and no cheap green ones without significant issues, plus if you're buying something that's iconic for the shape, there's an argument for getting the better shape. Obviously, because this is a sensible, practical purchase, the additional boot capacity and those pretty ludicrous rear seats were what really swung the decision...Strangely in my part of the world the convertible 225s are as cheap as the coupes at the moment.
Watching with interest what other bits of plastic break or squeak to distraction.
bangerhoarder said:
The brakes are really decent to work on IME, and new decent discs and pads are cheap (£50/£25 for Mintex). Bleeding can be a swine, and may need the ABS pump to be cycled. Mine was very poor when I got it - full of air. Careful with the master cylinder - if it breaks, you usually have to drop the engine(!)
Standard air filter is perfectly decent. Can be opened up a bit if you want.
Rust isn’t usually a big thing on them, but it can take hold under the sills, and in the suspension arms. They used excellent quality bolts and even when crusty should shift without snapping/rounding.
Undertray is near essential. Engine bay gets very messy quickly otherwise. The parcel shelves are creaky and many take them out entirely.
Drop the sump and clean/replace the oil strainer. It’s the best piece of work to do on the 1.8T. They’re tough if serviced and maintained, but if that blocks you have no chance to save the engine.
Thanks, lots of helpful stuff here. I have noticed that parts are pretty cheap generally, and was pleasantly surprised to see that the pads and discs that were thrown in are Brembo and Bosch respectively, tbh I was expecting something I'd never heard of so that was a bonus. Standard air filter is perfectly decent. Can be opened up a bit if you want.
Rust isn’t usually a big thing on them, but it can take hold under the sills, and in the suspension arms. They used excellent quality bolts and even when crusty should shift without snapping/rounding.
Undertray is near essential. Engine bay gets very messy quickly otherwise. The parcel shelves are creaky and many take them out entirely.
Drop the sump and clean/replace the oil strainer. It’s the best piece of work to do on the 1.8T. They’re tough if serviced and maintained, but if that blocks you have no chance to save the engine.
The obvious rust is on the arches and the skirts where they join. Barring finding some mint replacement parts, it's probably a bodyshop job, and across at least four panels, so I'll be waiting a bit before I consider spending that kind of money on it. The driver's door is an odd one, I wonder if it's related to the non-closing window. It's mostly hidden unless you're lying on the floor, so I'd be tempted to have a go at that myself, nobody will ever see any amateurish paintwork.
The engine bay does look like a flock of birds have been nesting in it, so definitely agree on the undertray, but for now I'm holding off buying cosmetic stuff that's unlikely to be either easy to reuse or pack up and chuck on eBay.
The sump and filter is a good shout. I'm planning an oil change once I've ruled out any worrying noises so will have a look at what's involved and round up the bits for that too.
Rick101 said:
Springs are always going on these. Went through a few. I put Rainsport 3 on in the end to soften up the ride a bit.
Only major failure I had was Power Steering rack. Wasn't too bad a bill tbh.
Cracking cars for the money esp if it's just to bash about in.
Yeah, I'm certainly expecting some bad news when I get the wheels off and have a prod around. The front strut tops are above the body which apparently indicates the top bushings are shot, and it certainly feels like not everything is quite right. Will have to decide how far to go if it isn't good, main thing is to get it through the MOT in April. Only major failure I had was Power Steering rack. Wasn't too bad a bill tbh.
Cracking cars for the money esp if it's just to bash about in.
The plan is to swap the 18s for 17s anyway, should ease up the crashiness and maybe prolong the life of the springs in the process. Thanks.
bangerhoarder said:
Changing plugs is worthwhile, but if the coil packs are earlier than D revision or cheapo aftermarket ones, it’s more likely to be them. R8 CPs are a recommended upgrade too.
Plug under 4 (I think it is) is a pain as you have to remove the bolts for the vacuum tank for the DV and the N249 valve (the spaghetti on the cam cover!)
Thanks, I didn't look too closely at the coils, but they didn't seem to have any obvious branding, and someone had written the numbers on in Sharpie, which could just mean the plugs have been changed, but might also be someone chasing an issue. Will have a look at the R8 ones.Plug under 4 (I think it is) is a pain as you have to remove the bolts for the vacuum tank for the DV and the N249 valve (the spaghetti on the cam cover!)
I kind of like that they put zero effort into making the engine bay look tidy or cool, just random messes of pipes everywhere. Plenty of people go nuts with the coloured silicone trying to make a feature of it all, and then it looks like chaos, but blue.
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