Shed money Clio 172
Discussion
Hello. Its been a while since I've done one of these, but I suspect this car will have some stuff going on that will be interesting.
I picked up this last night.
It's a phase 2 clio 172, to be used as a weekend car. Possibly a track day, if i feel brave enough.
Some modifications, specifically, a huge cone filter and intake, lowering springs, catch can and possibly some sort of exhaust. The exhaust looks standard, but is incredibly loud. Its also got some really good looking oz wheels with PS4 tyres.
Despite lots of owners Its got a very, very good history. 3 dephaser and belt changes in its life, lots of oil and plug changes.
So after picking it up last night i had a 2 hour (mainly motorway) slog back from Oxford to Cambridge. During this i did think i had made a terrible decision. It's incredibly loud, the lack of a 6th gear is annoying, it vibrates, the gear change is poor and it clonks coming to a stop and pulling away.
However, at one point i overcooked it into a roundabout, and the ease with which the lift-off oversteer corrected it was fantastic.
It's got potential.
So the plan is to de-pimp the ride. At bit. The induction kit will be going, and the exhaust will be checked out to see what it is. There was a smell of exhaust fumes when sitting at traffic lights, so it may be blowing.
Internet based research says the clonk, poor gear change and vibration may be related to engine/gearbox mounts so they need to be investigated.
The wheels are staying though...
I picked up this last night.
It's a phase 2 clio 172, to be used as a weekend car. Possibly a track day, if i feel brave enough.
Some modifications, specifically, a huge cone filter and intake, lowering springs, catch can and possibly some sort of exhaust. The exhaust looks standard, but is incredibly loud. Its also got some really good looking oz wheels with PS4 tyres.
Despite lots of owners Its got a very, very good history. 3 dephaser and belt changes in its life, lots of oil and plug changes.
So after picking it up last night i had a 2 hour (mainly motorway) slog back from Oxford to Cambridge. During this i did think i had made a terrible decision. It's incredibly loud, the lack of a 6th gear is annoying, it vibrates, the gear change is poor and it clonks coming to a stop and pulling away.
However, at one point i overcooked it into a roundabout, and the ease with which the lift-off oversteer corrected it was fantastic.
It's got potential.
So the plan is to de-pimp the ride. At bit. The induction kit will be going, and the exhaust will be checked out to see what it is. There was a smell of exhaust fumes when sitting at traffic lights, so it may be blowing.
Internet based research says the clonk, poor gear change and vibration may be related to engine/gearbox mounts so they need to be investigated.
The wheels are staying though...
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Tuesday 9th July 11:47
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Tuesday 9th July 11:49
Great little cars if you get a good one and the money has been spent on maintenance and servicing rather than loud exhausts, cone filters and alloy wheels 
I jest. What I actually find is that you can source standard items a lot cheaper than what you'll make from the Barry crap. The profit might even go towards a dephaser pulley and cambelt change if it's not had one done recently.
I jest. What I actually find is that you can source standard items a lot cheaper than what you'll make from the Barry crap. The profit might even go towards a dephaser pulley and cambelt change if it's not had one done recently.
Great cars - I'd keep the induction kit, the extra noise is worth it as they sound great, and the OEM airbox and bits are a pain to work with.
The exhaust I'd definitely change - I had a KTec stealth on mine and it was very good for the money, seriously light compared to the OEM systems too. Springs I'd also go back to standard if it'll spend most of its time on the road - mine was and it felt absolutely perfect, never needed to be stiffer/sharper. Even on a half day at Blyton the suspension wasn't limiting.
The best mod I did to mine in terms of driving feel was changing the "dog bone" mount for a Powerflex one - I bought the kit, but only changed the larger bushing as it was the wobbliest. After that it was perfect - no wobbly gearstick during gearchanges, but also no cabin vibration.
Oh, it may just have been my car, but I would stock up on spare injectors - I had two fail in my ownership, and although it was a doddle to change them it was a pain dropping to 3 cylinders during a journey!
The exhaust I'd definitely change - I had a KTec stealth on mine and it was very good for the money, seriously light compared to the OEM systems too. Springs I'd also go back to standard if it'll spend most of its time on the road - mine was and it felt absolutely perfect, never needed to be stiffer/sharper. Even on a half day at Blyton the suspension wasn't limiting.
The best mod I did to mine in terms of driving feel was changing the "dog bone" mount for a Powerflex one - I bought the kit, but only changed the larger bushing as it was the wobbliest. After that it was perfect - no wobbly gearstick during gearchanges, but also no cabin vibration.
Oh, it may just have been my car, but I would stock up on spare injectors - I had two fail in my ownership, and although it was a doddle to change them it was a pain dropping to 3 cylinders during a journey!
It's not from the FB group, but I have signed up as I'm going to need some technical support.
The SERV and airbag lights go on and off when you hit bumps in the road, I'm hoping there is "just" a dodgy connection.
For the price i paid, it' hard to see what would be more fun, and having driven it for a longer period, you can see why so many get onto the track, the steering and balance is just fantastic.
As for the maintenance, it's been well looked after. Service book is well stamped, dephaser done at 18,000 miles, 35,000 miles and 79,000 miles, so 20,000 miles and 2 years ago. In march this year it had new plugs, leads, injectors cleaned, gearbox & engine oil. So, yes, it's had some decent money spent on it
Apart from the clonking, it feels really good.
The SERV and airbag lights go on and off when you hit bumps in the road, I'm hoping there is "just" a dodgy connection.
For the price i paid, it' hard to see what would be more fun, and having driven it for a longer period, you can see why so many get onto the track, the steering and balance is just fantastic.
As for the maintenance, it's been well looked after. Service book is well stamped, dephaser done at 18,000 miles, 35,000 miles and 79,000 miles, so 20,000 miles and 2 years ago. In march this year it had new plugs, leads, injectors cleaned, gearbox & engine oil. So, yes, it's had some decent money spent on it
Apart from the clonking, it feels really good.
Cambs_Stuart said:
The SERV and airbag lights go on and off when you hit bumps in the road, I'm hoping there is "just" a dodgy connection.
Aye, common problem on the 172 is the connectors which are under the seat. They often just need a wobble and sometimes some tape to secure them a little more to stop any movement p4cks said:
Cambs_Stuart said:
The SERV and airbag lights go on and off when you hit bumps in the road, I'm hoping there is "just" a dodgy connection.
Aye, common problem on the 172 is the connectors which are under the seat. They often just need a wobble and sometimes some tape to secure them a little more to stop any movement Krikkit said:
p4cks said:
Cambs_Stuart said:
The SERV and airbag lights go on and off when you hit bumps in the road, I'm hoping there is "just" a dodgy connection.
Aye, common problem on the 172 is the connectors which are under the seat. They often just need a wobble and sometimes some tape to secure them a little more to stop any movement 
M4CK 1 said:
If you're taking it to the track you'll probably end up putting a bucket seat and some sort of racing steering wheel on it anyway. Supposed to make a massive difference in driving position and feel!!
Given the standard of my driving, I've got a long way to go before more track focussed mods become nesscessary! Thanks for the comments, I'll try to keep the posts coming.
Krikkit said:
p4cks said:
Cambs_Stuart said:
The SERV and airbag lights go on and off when you hit bumps in the road, I'm hoping there is "just" a dodgy connection.
Aye, common problem on the 172 is the connectors which are under the seat. They often just need a wobble and sometimes some tape to secure them a little more to stop any movement I had one back in 2004 in flame red.
It had a large cone air filter, magnex exhaust and some -40mm lowering springs. It ran a 14.7 at Santa Pod and also hit the rev limiter in 5th gear on private land.
It also needed a new rear wheel bearing by 26k, needed front tyres every 3k and snapped its gear linkage in two. I also lost £2k on it in six months.
Best car I have ever had.
It had a large cone air filter, magnex exhaust and some -40mm lowering springs. It ran a 14.7 at Santa Pod and also hit the rev limiter in 5th gear on private land.
It also needed a new rear wheel bearing by 26k, needed front tyres every 3k and snapped its gear linkage in two. I also lost £2k on it in six months.
Best car I have ever had.
I’ve got one of these - was my dad’s.
Totally standard with 36,000 on the clock and the dephaser done about a thousand miles ago.
I’d be surprised if there are many in that state with lower mileage.
It’s so much more fun to drive than my Chim.
Take all the crap off and you’ll still have a gem of a car.
Totally standard with 36,000 on the clock and the dephaser done about a thousand miles ago.
I’d be surprised if there are many in that state with lower mileage.
It’s so much more fun to drive than my Chim.
Take all the crap off and you’ll still have a gem of a car.
Now, my usual approach when buying cars is to download the whiteline/superpro/cusco catalogue...
But this time i'm going to try to learn some lessons form previous experience.
So instead of guessing what needs doing and buying a container full of bits, on monday the clio goes into a good local independent.
http://www.barhillmotors-cambridge.co.uk/
They're not a Renault specialist, but very honest. If anyone has got any Renault garages in Cambridge they are happy to recommend, I'm all ears.
In the mean time, I've added a couple of things to the to-dp list.
As with a few cars of these era, some of the interior plastics are a bit sticky:
So I need to work out how to remove these. Some googling suggests hot water and strong detergent.
While the steering wheel thumb grips haven't melted, one has split.
Uprated ones are available from ebay.
But this time i'm going to try to learn some lessons form previous experience.
So instead of guessing what needs doing and buying a container full of bits, on monday the clio goes into a good local independent.
http://www.barhillmotors-cambridge.co.uk/
They're not a Renault specialist, but very honest. If anyone has got any Renault garages in Cambridge they are happy to recommend, I'm all ears.
In the mean time, I've added a couple of things to the to-dp list.
As with a few cars of these era, some of the interior plastics are a bit sticky:
So I need to work out how to remove these. Some googling suggests hot water and strong detergent.
While the steering wheel thumb grips haven't melted, one has split.
Uprated ones are available from ebay.
Under the bonnet, with a few hours driving the good news is that there are no wet/smoky bits. Coolant is nice and pink, oil is nice and golden, but i have found this random clip rattling about:
No idea where that came from.
A bit more serious is some of the n/s wheel arch liner is missing.
And this really needs to go.
Just need to work out if I've got all the brackets needed to fit a standard box.
No idea where that came from.
A bit more serious is some of the n/s wheel arch liner is missing.
And this really needs to go.
Just need to work out if I've got all the brackets needed to fit a standard box.
Cambs_Stuart said:
Thanks, I'll have to experiment.
Anyone know if it's possible to get the centre section out without dismantling the entire dash?
If you mean the part with the hazard warning light on it then it pops off from memory just get behind it. Easiest way it to do that from memory is take the radio out that's an aftermarket jobbie but the stock one had a hole at each corner you could stick small screwdrivers or the inside of a ball point pen in it and pull it out towards you. You need to really push the screwdrivers etc in to allow you to pull it out. Anyone know if it's possible to get the centre section out without dismantling the entire dash?
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