Fisher Fury, impuse buy!
Discussion
BrettMRC said:
Zephyr Speedshop said:
poppopbangbang said:
Beautiful bit of CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) there!
Looking forward to seeing the final version.
Can't beat the cardboard 



I completely forgot I've also fitted this 2.2 or 2.4 turn quick rack. It was the over 3 turns. So taken abitnof getting used to be it's really nice not having to shift my hands even on the tightest turns.


Like everything on the fury, it's was easy Todo. Took me longer to measure and swap the tie rods over that were different to the ones on the car. The wheel is slightly off, so needs the alignment checking although I was very careful to find the center of the rack. But had the same issue when I did the bushes. The must be a minor difference in where it sits left to right.
Also I wasn't going to post any of these because of the wind noise. I need to go out with the foam thing on, or get a remote mic. But gives you an idea of how good she sounds!
Seriously considering booking a track day for it now . Especially as I know I can use the trailer for not alot.
Like everything on the fury, it's was easy Todo. Took me longer to measure and swap the tie rods over that were different to the ones on the car. The wheel is slightly off, so needs the alignment checking although I was very careful to find the center of the rack. But had the same issue when I did the bushes. The must be a minor difference in where it sits left to right.
Also I wasn't going to post any of these because of the wind noise. I need to go out with the foam thing on, or get a remote mic. But gives you an idea of how good she sounds!
Seriously considering booking a track day for it now . Especially as I know I can use the trailer for not alot.
BrettMRC said:
How loud is it? Will it be track day compliant?
Looks like it goes like greased weasel s
t off a shovel! 
With that 700mm x 150mm silencer I don't think it's too bad. It's all induction noise. Looks like it goes like greased weasel s


Reveire quote up to 5/6db drop in intake noise with there airboxes , I known mine won't be carbon. But I still think it will take a decent chunk off the noise level. I hoping. It will get rid of some of the lower throttle chuffing noise you get twitch itb's and carbs. But then yes I think it will pass a 95/100 day but will measure it beforehand to get an idea
Also been thinking about making a 45 or 90° slip on exhaust tip to point at the ground if it's still too loud
dhutch said:
Zephyr Speedshop said:
Cheers, what have you got ? A '7'?
Yeah I have a narrowbody Westfield. Had it since I was 21, so about 16 years, although a young family means money is tight as it might have to find a new home. Alrighty then. Waiting on my buddy to sort out my airbox so thought I'd crack on with some more bits. The random tappy top end is back.
I'm not sure if it's Todo with the oil thinning out after abitnof a pasting, on the Dyno or it's getting hotter. From being driven harder. Interestingly is doesn't do it when revved like it used to only why driving around so I'm pretty confident it's oil surge in the top end. Might just be getting abit hot and runny.
So I need to fit an oil temp gauge that's been ok the list a while. And figured if fit an alloy rad as well as it's still not perfect at Keep cool. The old lancia rad is pretty old hat single core so a twin core alloy one should be a chunk better. Ive also been wanting to tidy up how the rad is fixed it was abit of a mess and make some solid coolant pipes to run along the chassis. Oh and tidy up the wires that side as there abit of a mess.

Nice structural ziptie


Just all abit naff.

Made some mounts out of an off cut of 4mm Ali from the cam pulley shims

The chassis mounts are setup for a 45° rad . But I don't have enough room for one with the oil cooler as well. I spoke to mark fisher, who recommended the VW polo rad I've bought. As it more than enough to cool zetec power cars.
It's much more solid now and mounted properly.

I was abit gypsy with the oil cooler fitting it to the rad last time as I knew I'd be re doing it all at some point. I made some supports up that clamp to the front body support.




Everything is much more solid. And now the oil cooler won't be getting any heat from the rad. And should have good air flow through it. I have space to fit a fan on it as well.
I do plan to make a rad shroud to help force the air through the rads.


Luckily I had some spare aero quip hose from the 205, as the cooler lines need to be longer for the new position.
Really happy with how neat it all looks now.

Oil temp sensor in the oil manifold. Not the best spot, if I drop the sump again I will weld a bung to it. But this should give me an idea of what we're seeing.
I've just done a load and of wiring, tidying. As I ran out of welding gas to make the coolant pipes.
Also planning to drop the oil and put in 10w60. Which has been recommended, should hopefully cope with the heat abit more.
Although restricting the camboxs drains has helped. The negative is the oil spend more time in there getting heated. If I was a clever bloke I could probably work out how to increase the oil supply rather than restrict it.
I'm not sure if it's Todo with the oil thinning out after abitnof a pasting, on the Dyno or it's getting hotter. From being driven harder. Interestingly is doesn't do it when revved like it used to only why driving around so I'm pretty confident it's oil surge in the top end. Might just be getting abit hot and runny.
So I need to fit an oil temp gauge that's been ok the list a while. And figured if fit an alloy rad as well as it's still not perfect at Keep cool. The old lancia rad is pretty old hat single core so a twin core alloy one should be a chunk better. Ive also been wanting to tidy up how the rad is fixed it was abit of a mess and make some solid coolant pipes to run along the chassis. Oh and tidy up the wires that side as there abit of a mess.
Nice structural ziptie

Just all abit naff.
Made some mounts out of an off cut of 4mm Ali from the cam pulley shims
The chassis mounts are setup for a 45° rad . But I don't have enough room for one with the oil cooler as well. I spoke to mark fisher, who recommended the VW polo rad I've bought. As it more than enough to cool zetec power cars.
It's much more solid now and mounted properly.
I was abit gypsy with the oil cooler fitting it to the rad last time as I knew I'd be re doing it all at some point. I made some supports up that clamp to the front body support.
Everything is much more solid. And now the oil cooler won't be getting any heat from the rad. And should have good air flow through it. I have space to fit a fan on it as well.
I do plan to make a rad shroud to help force the air through the rads.
Luckily I had some spare aero quip hose from the 205, as the cooler lines need to be longer for the new position.
Really happy with how neat it all looks now.
Oil temp sensor in the oil manifold. Not the best spot, if I drop the sump again I will weld a bung to it. But this should give me an idea of what we're seeing.
I've just done a load and of wiring, tidying. As I ran out of welding gas to make the coolant pipes.
Also planning to drop the oil and put in 10w60. Which has been recommended, should hopefully cope with the heat abit more.
Although restricting the camboxs drains has helped. The negative is the oil spend more time in there getting heated. If I was a clever bloke I could probably work out how to increase the oil supply rather than restrict it.
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Saturday 6th July 21:05
B'stard Child said:
Mr Tidy said:
If you do use 10W60 oil just make sure it it fully warmed up before you put the engine under any load.
I use it in my BMW Z4M and it's like treacle at ambient temperatures!
^ This I use 10W60 Miller CFS in my track car and my Lotus Carlton - both you really need a lot of miles before it's up to tempI use it in my BMW Z4M and it's like treacle at ambient temperatures!
Both have no thermostat controlling the Oil coolers so it takes a long time before the oil gets over 80 deg
poppopbangbang said:
Great work as always, I'm a big fan of the Fury in general and yours is shaping up a treat!
On the oil cooler, it would be worth making some inserts (short work on your Myford
) to fit on the internal between both mounting points and securing it with long bolts which run through both sides of the oil cooler, through the inserts and into your mounts. I've seen a couple of failure modes where the unsupported end plate has been deformed by oil pressure when thick oils/high pressures have been used and the Think Auto chaps (Mocal basically) state this as requirement for proper mounting.
It's only a 10row, it says on the sticker it needs all four mounts, for '13 and above'. But definitely something to consider I'd never even considered that would be an issue. On the oil cooler, it would be worth making some inserts (short work on your Myford

Mr Tidy said:
Zephyr Speedshop said:
B'stard Child said:
Mr Tidy said:
If you do use 10W60 oil just make sure it it fully warmed up before you put the engine under any load.
I use it in my BMW Z4M and it's like treacle at ambient temperatures!
^ This I use 10W60 Miller CFS in my track car and my Lotus Carlton - both you really need a lot of miles before it's up to tempI use it in my BMW Z4M and it's like treacle at ambient temperatures!
Both have no thermostat controlling the Oil coolers so it takes a long time before the oil gets over 80 deg
My Z4M has amber lights in the tacho that go out as the temperature rises but as it also has an oil temperature gauge which suggests the lights go out before it's fully up to temperature, so I go by the gauge just to be sure as I had new big end bearing shells fitted in 2020. FWIW I use Castrol Supercar 10w60 as that was what BMW recommended.
I think it's an oil control/slosh issue, from it being a traverse engine. I probably just need to get over myself and live with the noise. But it's pretty disconcerting when you hear it.
I'm using, valvoline VR1. Usually my first choice if they do the spec.
Update time sorry , I've been on holiday!
After the last installment I drove out to my parents in it. And after a little bit of full throttle action. It was running on 3 . Had a fiddle at my parents . But could see there was what looked likeand felt like oil with fuel leaking from no3 exhaust runner (manifold is shagged, more on that soon )
So opted to drive it home on 3 naughty I know but it's 10mins quickest root with only one shaft national bit.
Got the endoscope in to the port and the boots looked fine. Zero scoring or any signs of a ring letting go..

The light makes the hone look rougher than it is and it is probably had a home job as some Stag in it's life but it's all uniform
Next up was a leak down, (can't find my comp tester anywhere must have lent it to someone

This was decent and was pretty much identical to no2 .

So no option time to strip the head down in my mind. As I'm thinking was that a stem seal must have completely failed and allowing enough oil into no3 to stop it combusting or a valve guide had cracked.

No 3 stemseal definitely looks abit Sus with zero oil sitting in the top. . compared with 2

Then I spotted this.

Can you spot it ?

All 4 exhaust stemseals have lifted. No this is unlikely to have anything to do with oil in the cylinder as the exhaust is positive pressure some engines don't even have exhaust seals.
But this does point to a some other issue. And as it all 4 of them it's not a fluke or a bad seal it must be caused by something.
So abit more investigation shows they are not the correct type for this head. All of the listed seals for the delta are the green ones and there the same part for exhaust and inlet. You will have spotted these are black and brown so different for each side.
There no witness marks on them or the springs so at abit if a loss as to why they have lifted. They weren't even that loose I could push them on but given they've be beat up and down for an unknown period. There probably abit looser than they were.



The cam. Box gaskets didn't show up till the Friday that I was going on holiday. So work stopped :
When I got back my plan too get straight back in the garage after unpacking was torn to pieces by SWMBO, who had in her infinite wisdom turned the fridge with a freezer full of food of at the wall. Still not got to the bottom of what she thought that would achieve.
So after dealing with the various different types of food products, that were now liquified. a minor amount of wretching and an awful awful lot of swearing. I Attempteding to clue the fridge. And finally accepting I was ordering one to come on Sunday off AO . lease she could do to let me cool off in the garage
Wasn't in the best of moods as you can imagine, so forgot to get pics of reassembly sorry!
Time to turn the key and get it running. No dice still running on 3.
So had a look in no3 and it's still soaking and the plug is wet and oily. So lots of messing about cleaning it and trying again. Still nothing. So decided to turn it over with the plugs out to try and chuff out the oil and see if it just needs to clear up more. And then it hits me. With the injectors un plugged in still getting clouds of fuel flying out of 3.
So I pulled the fuel rail and turned the ignition. (It won't let me upload the video. )
But even when unplugged. The injector was stuck open. Just a continuous stream of fuel being hosed into no3.

The offender
Luckily my buddy with the teal fiesta thats is in some of the photos. Has had a string of st150s and other fords so he had 8 st150 injectors the same as I use in the itb's. So was able to nip round and grab those off him and get her running Saturday morning. Definitely owe him a pint.

I'm tempted to re do the fuel hoes. As I'm wondering if this means some of its not E10 safe. However the filter is only 500mm upstream of the rail. And I know that's a decent bit of hose as I fitted it.
The negative is it was booked with , my buddy in to make the airbox and do the exhaust manifold whilst I was away. So I missed my slot on that as obviously didn't want to spend major dollars on parts when I might need a new head. This is now been moved to late September . Which I'm really excited about as it sounds terrible at idle with all the blows.
The positive is, I've found another issue and it is running better again. The intermittent valve noise has gone now. Done about 100miles in over the weekend and took it to work today and been epic. The new rad and oil cooler all working great.
I've done an oil service tonight as the oil has so much fuel in it.

All clean ready to play
I've been putting the body work off but I'm really running out of other stuff to do. Might have to knuckle down and do it.
After the last installment I drove out to my parents in it. And after a little bit of full throttle action. It was running on 3 . Had a fiddle at my parents . But could see there was what looked likeand felt like oil with fuel leaking from no3 exhaust runner (manifold is shagged, more on that soon )
So opted to drive it home on 3 naughty I know but it's 10mins quickest root with only one shaft national bit.
Got the endoscope in to the port and the boots looked fine. Zero scoring or any signs of a ring letting go..
The light makes the hone look rougher than it is and it is probably had a home job as some Stag in it's life but it's all uniform
Next up was a leak down, (can't find my comp tester anywhere must have lent it to someone

This was decent and was pretty much identical to no2 .
So no option time to strip the head down in my mind. As I'm thinking was that a stem seal must have completely failed and allowing enough oil into no3 to stop it combusting or a valve guide had cracked.
No 3 stemseal definitely looks abit Sus with zero oil sitting in the top. . compared with 2
Then I spotted this.
Can you spot it ?
All 4 exhaust stemseals have lifted. No this is unlikely to have anything to do with oil in the cylinder as the exhaust is positive pressure some engines don't even have exhaust seals.
But this does point to a some other issue. And as it all 4 of them it's not a fluke or a bad seal it must be caused by something.
So abit more investigation shows they are not the correct type for this head. All of the listed seals for the delta are the green ones and there the same part for exhaust and inlet. You will have spotted these are black and brown so different for each side.
There no witness marks on them or the springs so at abit if a loss as to why they have lifted. They weren't even that loose I could push them on but given they've be beat up and down for an unknown period. There probably abit looser than they were.
The cam. Box gaskets didn't show up till the Friday that I was going on holiday. So work stopped :
When I got back my plan too get straight back in the garage after unpacking was torn to pieces by SWMBO, who had in her infinite wisdom turned the fridge with a freezer full of food of at the wall. Still not got to the bottom of what she thought that would achieve.
So after dealing with the various different types of food products, that were now liquified. a minor amount of wretching and an awful awful lot of swearing. I Attempteding to clue the fridge. And finally accepting I was ordering one to come on Sunday off AO . lease she could do to let me cool off in the garage

Wasn't in the best of moods as you can imagine, so forgot to get pics of reassembly sorry!
Time to turn the key and get it running. No dice still running on 3.
So had a look in no3 and it's still soaking and the plug is wet and oily. So lots of messing about cleaning it and trying again. Still nothing. So decided to turn it over with the plugs out to try and chuff out the oil and see if it just needs to clear up more. And then it hits me. With the injectors un plugged in still getting clouds of fuel flying out of 3.
So I pulled the fuel rail and turned the ignition. (It won't let me upload the video. )
But even when unplugged. The injector was stuck open. Just a continuous stream of fuel being hosed into no3.
The offender
Luckily my buddy with the teal fiesta thats is in some of the photos. Has had a string of st150s and other fords so he had 8 st150 injectors the same as I use in the itb's. So was able to nip round and grab those off him and get her running Saturday morning. Definitely owe him a pint.
I'm tempted to re do the fuel hoes. As I'm wondering if this means some of its not E10 safe. However the filter is only 500mm upstream of the rail. And I know that's a decent bit of hose as I fitted it.
The negative is it was booked with , my buddy in to make the airbox and do the exhaust manifold whilst I was away. So I missed my slot on that as obviously didn't want to spend major dollars on parts when I might need a new head. This is now been moved to late September . Which I'm really excited about as it sounds terrible at idle with all the blows.
The positive is, I've found another issue and it is running better again. The intermittent valve noise has gone now. Done about 100miles in over the weekend and took it to work today and been epic. The new rad and oil cooler all working great.
I've done an oil service tonight as the oil has so much fuel in it.
All clean ready to play

I've been putting the body work off but I'm really running out of other stuff to do. Might have to knuckle down and do it.
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Tuesday 13th August 22:50
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Tuesday 13th August 22:54
dhutch said:
Zephyr Speedshop said:
If it isnt one thing, its got to be another!Great work, and as always, the car looks fantastic in my eyes.
Very jealous both of the car and your time to work on it!

and it is a great looking car.
Absolutely kicking myself. I missed something so basic. Been so focused on the engines health. Ive been neglecting the box. Finally go around to changing the oil and it's night and day different. Judging by the viscosity it's either not been done in forever or is the wrong grade. Also the 131 box has yellow metal in so you have to use a safe oil. Which is lucky I looked it up as I had ep 80w90 on the shelf.

Zc90 is what fiat actually recommend. Not sure on the exact difference but didn't want to risk anything else.
The box is as good as any now before it was good but felt like it was a 50 year old box. Now it's as good as anything else.
The car is running better than ever the repairs I've done in the head seem to have made it alot smoother and has cured the intermittent tapping which is really odd as that was there before I did the valve springs but they weren't lifted then. And when I did the cams I could have missed it but I think I would have noticed. Hopefully it was due to them being wrong and it's sorted now.
First time in a year I took the wife out in it on date night lost night. And she didn't hate it
. Judging by her insta gram I think she had fun

I can't believe how good it is now, I've definitely had some lows with this car, more than any other build. I'm not sure I was ready for kit cars and just how janky they are. I keep reminding myself that all that can be made better tho. Today I did 60miles just because and enjoyed all of it. The cars sublime when you get a clear bit of road. Plenty of poke for an overtake.
Right enough gushing, as all this means it's about to break something major
Stopped on the way back to take a couple of photos.




I've had alot of cars and I've loved all of them for alot of reasons. But apart from my 840ci, this is the only car I've loved looking at. It's abit sad I know but sometimes (like now) I just go in the garage with a beer just to peak at it. Is that sad
Look like I'm off the hook tomorrow I wonder what trouble I can get into.
I'm seriously tempted to try and get the body work sorted in the evenings this week as I'm around. .and then wrap it next weekend . It's just so much fun to drive though
Zc90 is what fiat actually recommend. Not sure on the exact difference but didn't want to risk anything else.
The box is as good as any now before it was good but felt like it was a 50 year old box. Now it's as good as anything else.
The car is running better than ever the repairs I've done in the head seem to have made it alot smoother and has cured the intermittent tapping which is really odd as that was there before I did the valve springs but they weren't lifted then. And when I did the cams I could have missed it but I think I would have noticed. Hopefully it was due to them being wrong and it's sorted now.
First time in a year I took the wife out in it on date night lost night. And she didn't hate it

I can't believe how good it is now, I've definitely had some lows with this car, more than any other build. I'm not sure I was ready for kit cars and just how janky they are. I keep reminding myself that all that can be made better tho. Today I did 60miles just because and enjoyed all of it. The cars sublime when you get a clear bit of road. Plenty of poke for an overtake.
Right enough gushing, as all this means it's about to break something major

Stopped on the way back to take a couple of photos.
I've had alot of cars and I've loved all of them for alot of reasons. But apart from my 840ci, this is the only car I've loved looking at. It's abit sad I know but sometimes (like now) I just go in the garage with a beer just to peak at it. Is that sad

Look like I'm off the hook tomorrow I wonder what trouble I can get into.
I'm seriously tempted to try and get the body work sorted in the evenings this week as I'm around. .and then wrap it next weekend . It's just so much fun to drive though

Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Saturday 17th August 20:53
I do need some help, I would like some quarter lites, as it does get abit buffety. Above 60. And as I have zero plans to use the roof in anger. I think realistically as it doesn't fit in the car and having it down the front bard that mates with the top of the windscreen, Just flaps about.
In the real world I'm unlikely to road trip it far. And if I do it will just be me. So Im thinking tonneau cover or have a light wait cover I can clip on at night.
So I'm thinking of chopping the side glasses down.



So I've followed the roof angle. Then something I think looks right and then vertical.
For me it between vertical and the middle one. Hopefully just help keep the windscreen wake behind me. It's fine on a boat but I think for a few hours it would get irritating. And on track pushing. Into triple digits. It will help
In the real world I'm unlikely to road trip it far. And if I do it will just be me. So Im thinking tonneau cover or have a light wait cover I can clip on at night.
So I'm thinking of chopping the side glasses down.
So I've followed the roof angle. Then something I think looks right and then vertical.
For me it between vertical and the middle one. Hopefully just help keep the windscreen wake behind me. It's fine on a boat but I think for a few hours it would get irritating. And on track pushing. Into triple digits. It will help
andburg said:
Could you get some proper glazing plastic, cut it to shape with some form of connecting channel so it slips onto the top of the window in the door and the frame at the front?
Hope that makes sense
Edit that’s wrongly assuming the existing windows wound down lol
Ha ha. Not that's a bolt on bit of acrylic or perspex Hope that makes sense
Edit that’s wrongly assuming the existing windows wound down lol
Edited by andburg on Saturday 17th August 20:12

In fact I'd I was smart I could make a Chanel to go on the back of the quarter light an then the remaining side window could still be used if I wanted a full side glass again.
I like that that's a really good idea Andburg!
I pulled the trigger on halfway house, and they make a fair bit of distance. It's not getting any awards for nvh and a serene cockpit environment. But it's significantly less buffetey. At motorway speed.
My girls are off shopping in Brighton today. So I've spent the afternoon out driving it!
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Sunday 18th August 17:17
Started stripping it down to repair all the marks and holes in the body ready for wrapping.
Few of the holes are too big like the ones for the door buttons. Which I'm not going to put back. Having actuators and buttons seems Abit over kill to me I'm just going to have a strap off the latch on the inside. Keep it simple.
I need to remove the lights and get the filler out. But otherwise all stripped down.
A bit more massaging on the doors are they still catching the body slightly.
Good shout on the rear deflector not even thought about that. I'll have a think on what would work . although it's already much better than it was with the quarter lites. And I've been thinking about a tonneau cover as well.
Just not sure how it would work with the roll cage.
More progress tonight I've got a bit more sanding to do as decided to get rid of the humungus number plate lights on the back.





Not the colour by the way just a test and you can still see a shadow of the old hole so more work needed. I think I need something softer to sand ontue radius with as I think it's because I've flattened of the soft filler. Will have another go tomorrow. See if I can get a soft pad for the sander.
But otherwise it's a final clean away from getting some colour on.
I showed someone the colour at work on Monday as they were asking what I'd picked. And got me all enthusiastic as it's a wicked colour. All going well hopefully have it done then weekend. Might even start it Thursday night if everything else is ready.
Just not sure how it would work with the roll cage.
More progress tonight I've got a bit more sanding to do as decided to get rid of the humungus number plate lights on the back.
Not the colour by the way just a test and you can still see a shadow of the old hole so more work needed. I think I need something softer to sand ontue radius with as I think it's because I've flattened of the soft filler. Will have another go tomorrow. See if I can get a soft pad for the sander.
But otherwise it's a final clean away from getting some colour on.
I showed someone the colour at work on Monday as they were asking what I'd picked. And got me all enthusiastic as it's a wicked colour. All going well hopefully have it done then weekend. Might even start it Thursday night if everything else is ready.
EmBe said:
Car Builder Solutions do a nice pair of LED number plate lights that use the plate's own fixing holes
https://www.carbuilder.com/products/number-plate-b...

ive ordered black motorbike ones basically the same. https://www.carbuilder.com/products/number-plate-b...

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