Mercedes W124 E300D estate - progress, or not...
Discussion
The car has a couple of things heading toward it in the next few weeks - aside from the planned welding & hoses/tank replacement, I've found a set of wheels I think will work well, and I'm talking to a guy breaking a similar car about the below-windscreen plastics and perhaps the cruise control paraphernalia.
Wheels..... have much patina.... and tyres from brands I've never heard of. I'd be surprised if the tyres are from this millennium (International & Sabre S550 anyone?) and the alloys themselves are aged-looking but mostly undamaged. Sticking with 15s. I'll see what they're like when I grab them on Saturday, but they are cheap.
Plastics because the pieces under the windscreen on my car don't seem to be right, are now sealed with more silicone than I'd prefer (to stop ingress I'd prefer even less) but at some point I'd like to get things reasonably proper in there. The car being broken isnt a million miles away, and the prices seem reasonable.
Cruise control... I'd very much like it, as I benefitted hugely from the CC on r129sl’s car during the Cannes trip last year, but I know its a combination of mechanical and electronic components. If anyone could give me a run-down of what would need to be removes from the spares car, that'd be much appreciated - I don't need part numbers (although I'd welcome them) but an understanding of what to remove would be invaluable. I'm thinking stalk, steering column cowling, presumably there's a control unit somewhere, then the physical jobbies to attach to the throttle cable/linkage.
More about the wheels when I have them, at which point I'll have to decide whether to keep with patina, paint in predictable silver, or perhaps head down the route of Porsche Weissgold....
Wheels..... have much patina.... and tyres from brands I've never heard of. I'd be surprised if the tyres are from this millennium (International & Sabre S550 anyone?) and the alloys themselves are aged-looking but mostly undamaged. Sticking with 15s. I'll see what they're like when I grab them on Saturday, but they are cheap.
Plastics because the pieces under the windscreen on my car don't seem to be right, are now sealed with more silicone than I'd prefer (to stop ingress I'd prefer even less) but at some point I'd like to get things reasonably proper in there. The car being broken isnt a million miles away, and the prices seem reasonable.
Cruise control... I'd very much like it, as I benefitted hugely from the CC on r129sl’s car during the Cannes trip last year, but I know its a combination of mechanical and electronic components. If anyone could give me a run-down of what would need to be removes from the spares car, that'd be much appreciated - I don't need part numbers (although I'd welcome them) but an understanding of what to remove would be invaluable. I'm thinking stalk, steering column cowling, presumably there's a control unit somewhere, then the physical jobbies to attach to the throttle cable/linkage.
More about the wheels when I have them, at which point I'll have to decide whether to keep with patina, paint in predictable silver, or perhaps head down the route of Porsche Weissgold....
Patina is about right!
The barrel looks to have been painted black for a portion, as have the backs of the spokes. The wheel face looks to have been diamond cut in the past, is matte in finish, and several minutes with a clay bar has only marginally reduced the marks on the front. I'll have to ponder, next, what to do - they've got character as-is, and being too shiny wouldn't suit them or the car, but I'm not sure I want to run them completely as-is.
Obviously, the tyres won't be used.
Angles are off in most directions, but I think they have potential:-
The barrel looks to have been painted black for a portion, as have the backs of the spokes. The wheel face looks to have been diamond cut in the past, is matte in finish, and several minutes with a clay bar has only marginally reduced the marks on the front. I'll have to ponder, next, what to do - they've got character as-is, and being too shiny wouldn't suit them or the car, but I'm not sure I want to run them completely as-is.
Obviously, the tyres won't be used.
Angles are off in most directions, but I think they have potential:-
I rather like those wheels.
Cruise control. I think these are the components.
(1) Hall effect sensor on the back of the speedo.
(2) Column stalk.
(3) ECU under the dash.
(4) Actuator under the inlet manifold.
(5) Rods between actuator and throttle.
(6) Wiring loom.
I don't think there is much more to it than that. If you're in the Merc club, someone on there recently has posted a guide to the various parts and I am pretty sure that in the Gazette archive there is an article about retrofitting it to a 124 300 diesel.
Cruise control. I think these are the components.
(1) Hall effect sensor on the back of the speedo.
(2) Column stalk.
(3) ECU under the dash.
(4) Actuator under the inlet manifold.
(5) Rods between actuator and throttle.
(6) Wiring loom.
I don't think there is much more to it than that. If you're in the Merc club, someone on there recently has posted a guide to the various parts and I am pretty sure that in the Gazette archive there is an article about retrofitting it to a 124 300 diesel.
Thank you, sir. I'm hoping I can get over to that car and grab some stuff I'll change in the future.
I have another package that's arrived from Lithuania. Or Latvia. I forget which. Faster to get fairly esoteric bits from there than to get generic car sundries from a certain three-lettered car parts company, not to mention a "sorry we took your money, didn't send what you paid for, and ignored you for months". Bitter, me?
Anyway, the mysterious foreign bits will go on once the fixings arrive. They were ordered on the same day, from this country. Bah.
Moving on, what's involved in me pulling the injectors at home? I assume it's a question of loosening the individual fuel lines with a standard spanner (or possibly one of those fancy nearly-but-not-quite-a-ring-spanner jobs), using a special socket to remove the injector itself, replacing the heat shield washer between the injector and head, then the reverse when the injectors come back. Am I missing anything?
I have another package that's arrived from Lithuania. Or Latvia. I forget which. Faster to get fairly esoteric bits from there than to get generic car sundries from a certain three-lettered car parts company, not to mention a "sorry we took your money, didn't send what you paid for, and ignored you for months". Bitter, me?
Anyway, the mysterious foreign bits will go on once the fixings arrive. They were ordered on the same day, from this country. Bah.
Moving on, what's involved in me pulling the injectors at home? I assume it's a question of loosening the individual fuel lines with a standard spanner (or possibly one of those fancy nearly-but-not-quite-a-ring-spanner jobs), using a special socket to remove the injector itself, replacing the heat shield washer between the injector and head, then the reverse when the injectors come back. Am I missing anything?
I've done a thing.
Is it a useful thing? Not necessarily.
Is it a clever thing? Probably not.
Is it a free thing? No.
Is it a necessary thing? No.
Does it make me feel better somehow? Yes.
I think.
It's always bothered me - very, very slightly and only when I get around to thinking about it - that my front wheel arch liners are..... incomplete.
That isn't really the case, because my car didn't come from the factory, to the best of my knowledge, with the front bits of liner. And that's most likely true, not just because the diagrams don't show or call them out, but mostly because r129sl's car doesn't have them either.
I thought I was lacking, but it turns out I was fully equipped.
But now. Now I'm over-equipped. And I'm boasting about it.
Behold my wheel arch liner completeness.
(ignore the duct tape)
For anyone still awake: 1 x 124 884 0335, 1 x 124 884 0435, 1 bag of 124 990 0492 (you'll need only two), and a 6.5mm drill bit if your holes don't line up.
I jacked up each wheel in turn, to give myself more access, took off one undertray fixing for each side, drilled a new hole in the new piece to line up with the hole in the piece behind and, with a bit of wrangling, Robert is your grandfather's son.
I hope they'll stay on.
Is it a useful thing? Not necessarily.
Is it a clever thing? Probably not.
Is it a free thing? No.
Is it a necessary thing? No.
Does it make me feel better somehow? Yes.
I think.
It's always bothered me - very, very slightly and only when I get around to thinking about it - that my front wheel arch liners are..... incomplete.
That isn't really the case, because my car didn't come from the factory, to the best of my knowledge, with the front bits of liner. And that's most likely true, not just because the diagrams don't show or call them out, but mostly because r129sl's car doesn't have them either.
I thought I was lacking, but it turns out I was fully equipped.
But now. Now I'm over-equipped. And I'm boasting about it.
Behold my wheel arch liner completeness.
(ignore the duct tape)
For anyone still awake: 1 x 124 884 0335, 1 x 124 884 0435, 1 bag of 124 990 0492 (you'll need only two), and a 6.5mm drill bit if your holes don't line up.
I jacked up each wheel in turn, to give myself more access, took off one undertray fixing for each side, drilled a new hole in the new piece to line up with the hole in the piece behind and, with a bit of wrangling, Robert is your grandfather's son.
I hope they'll stay on.
I'm not sure they'll help with the they-all-do-that wing rot, but it probably won't hurt and it does make the arch look more complete.
You'll see a fixing on the passenger side, where there's a mounting hole. There's a stud on that side but no (plastic) nut, so I'll look to get one to secure in place more tightly. There isn't a stud on the driver's side. I think they fit well enough and pretty close to being factory fitment but not exact, hence the drilled holes. The 500E explanation sounds plausible.
You'll see a fixing on the passenger side, where there's a mounting hole. There's a stud on that side but no (plastic) nut, so I'll look to get one to secure in place more tightly. There isn't a stud on the driver's side. I think they fit well enough and pretty close to being factory fitment but not exact, hence the drilled holes. The 500E explanation sounds plausible.
The other suggestion I've seen - on the amusing diesel taxi thread on RR - is that the covers were to protect the optional (fanfare?) horns.
But you might want to wait until I figure out why the LH one is making a nasty noise (think: running over a crisp packet) on certain >40mph compressions, and has already cracked. I think those two points are connected, but I don't yet know how the panel is put under enough stress to crack it.
Hmm.
But you might want to wait until I figure out why the LH one is making a nasty noise (think: running over a crisp packet) on certain >40mph compressions, and has already cracked. I think those two points are connected, but I don't yet know how the panel is put under enough stress to crack it.
Hmm.
The Mad Monk said:
Where can I find the 'amusing diesel taxi thread'?
I presume thishttps://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/162353/w124-b...
I was originally worried that mine didn't have them, because it looks like something should be there.
I then drove r129sl's car down to Cannes last year (still haven't had time to write up the trip properly), heard a funny noise which turned out to be a wheel bearing, and noticed that his car didn't have them either.
The arches look - to my mind - better with them installed, but the passenger side one is now a bit crunched after only a few miles of fast-ish but bumpy roads. It's the one which is connected in three places, where the other side is connected on two and is fine. May not be due to that, though, as roads often dip more on the edge.
I'll get a photo when I can escape my cave of professional doom.
I don't know what's causing it - because I don't know why anything there would change position/shape as the suspension moves - but I'll have to look again and work to rectify it. It may just be that they're a little too wide, if they're intended for 500Es, and just need a trim.
I then drove r129sl's car down to Cannes last year (still haven't had time to write up the trip properly), heard a funny noise which turned out to be a wheel bearing, and noticed that his car didn't have them either.
The arches look - to my mind - better with them installed, but the passenger side one is now a bit crunched after only a few miles of fast-ish but bumpy roads. It's the one which is connected in three places, where the other side is connected on two and is fine. May not be due to that, though, as roads often dip more on the edge.
I'll get a photo when I can escape my cave of professional doom.
I don't know what's causing it - because I don't know why anything there would change position/shape as the suspension moves - but I'll have to look again and work to rectify it. It may just be that they're a little too wide, if they're intended for 500Es, and just need a trim.
Howevermany weeks later we are now (3?) there's some work being done.
I dropped in last week and they'd done some of the welding. As of today, the welding is done and they're working on the rear links, which I'd asked them to look at (but not necessarily to do). Sounds like some of the bolts are needing significant persuasion, including heat, so it'll have been a job I wouldn't have been able to do. It'll be good when it's done, once the bill has been paid. However much that's going to be, given he's spent a couple of hours working to loosen bolts.
The welding in the front DS arch ended up needing one two-hand-sized section plus one one-hand-sized bit. More than I was anticipating, particularly as the larger piece sounds to have been the multi-contoured section, with the smaller bit being the flat horizontal piece behind the headlight.
Anyway, work continues apace although the pace is fairly slow, and hopefully I'll get the car back in another week or so. The rear links are proving time-consuming and are being done in sections so the car can remain fairly mobile. So far, they seem to have been difficult only by dint of being an old car, rather than through any bodgery. Rear discs may go back on, as they don't look too bad, and the brake hoses look okay.
Fingers crossed I can have the car back next week. So I can take it to a transmission specialist.
I dropped in last week and they'd done some of the welding. As of today, the welding is done and they're working on the rear links, which I'd asked them to look at (but not necessarily to do). Sounds like some of the bolts are needing significant persuasion, including heat, so it'll have been a job I wouldn't have been able to do. It'll be good when it's done, once the bill has been paid. However much that's going to be, given he's spent a couple of hours working to loosen bolts.
The welding in the front DS arch ended up needing one two-hand-sized section plus one one-hand-sized bit. More than I was anticipating, particularly as the larger piece sounds to have been the multi-contoured section, with the smaller bit being the flat horizontal piece behind the headlight.
Anyway, work continues apace although the pace is fairly slow, and hopefully I'll get the car back in another week or so. The rear links are proving time-consuming and are being done in sections so the car can remain fairly mobile. So far, they seem to have been difficult only by dint of being an old car, rather than through any bodgery. Rear discs may go back on, as they don't look too bad, and the brake hoses look okay.
Fingers crossed I can have the car back next week. So I can take it to a transmission specialist.
Spot the new bits.
Just when I was thinking I wouldn't see the car for another couple of weeks - which would have been fine, and nicely coincided with payday - I got the "it's done, and please can you come and take it away because we have no space" call.
The rear links are not yet all done - from memory the rear anti-roll bar drop links & bushes plus top links are done, with 6 (I think) links to be done at another time.
Welding is done, as is the replacement of the hoses, expansion tank, tensioner spring & damper, and fan belt. Bonnet latch is also replaced for a nice shiny new one, and the bonnet now needs effort to close with that and the new insulation that's been on a little while.
The old thermostat housing bolts didn't want to come off but, thankfully, responded to some heat. Thermostat, housing & bolts have been replaced.
Rear passenger side door check strap remains are removed and the new strap fitted. I've now got to paint the section of exposed metal on the door sill where I hacked at the old strap pin. I've slopped some primer on, and will add colour when it's dried.
I haven't driven the car far yet - because I want to get a transmission specialist to have a look, soon, so we can sort out the jerky changes and odd noises - but I do love driving this car.
Something else to consider: is this radiator shroud the right one? Aside from being secured with cable ties, it's not full width and I'm not sure whether it should be.
And I noticed the ground-off remains of the MB logo on the Lemforder arms.
Just when I was thinking I wouldn't see the car for another couple of weeks - which would have been fine, and nicely coincided with payday - I got the "it's done, and please can you come and take it away because we have no space" call.
The rear links are not yet all done - from memory the rear anti-roll bar drop links & bushes plus top links are done, with 6 (I think) links to be done at another time.
Welding is done, as is the replacement of the hoses, expansion tank, tensioner spring & damper, and fan belt. Bonnet latch is also replaced for a nice shiny new one, and the bonnet now needs effort to close with that and the new insulation that's been on a little while.
The old thermostat housing bolts didn't want to come off but, thankfully, responded to some heat. Thermostat, housing & bolts have been replaced.
Rear passenger side door check strap remains are removed and the new strap fitted. I've now got to paint the section of exposed metal on the door sill where I hacked at the old strap pin. I've slopped some primer on, and will add colour when it's dried.
I haven't driven the car far yet - because I want to get a transmission specialist to have a look, soon, so we can sort out the jerky changes and odd noises - but I do love driving this car.
Something else to consider: is this radiator shroud the right one? Aside from being secured with cable ties, it's not full width and I'm not sure whether it should be.
And I noticed the ground-off remains of the MB logo on the Lemforder arms.
When I drove the car at the weekend, the bulb warning light came on for a while (then went & stayed off).
It was one of the front sidelights but, while I was looking around the car, I noticed that one of the rear number plate lamps looked pretty dim. While waiting around for my laptop to be reimaged by work today (and now while waiting for the email workaround to be worked around to resolve their sudden disappearance), I've had a play about.
I ordered a couple of LED bulbs for the lamps (C5W from memory) from Classic Car LEDs, which arrived this morning in an anti-static bag in an a-s jiffy. So I whipped the lamp units out to have a look.
The offending bulb, while still working, doesn't look great.
A quick clean up of the lamp units makes me think a replacement pair would be beneficial - surely they should be clear-ish rather than frosted? - so I'll get them ordered up. LED bulbs themselves look good, and give a nice warm light. I may get more for other places.
It also looks like I need to have the painted plastic jobbie off (presumably it just unscrews?) so I can clean up and treat/paint the rust.
It was one of the front sidelights but, while I was looking around the car, I noticed that one of the rear number plate lamps looked pretty dim. While waiting around for my laptop to be reimaged by work today (and now while waiting for the email workaround to be worked around to resolve their sudden disappearance), I've had a play about.
I ordered a couple of LED bulbs for the lamps (C5W from memory) from Classic Car LEDs, which arrived this morning in an anti-static bag in an a-s jiffy. So I whipped the lamp units out to have a look.
The offending bulb, while still working, doesn't look great.
A quick clean up of the lamp units makes me think a replacement pair would be beneficial - surely they should be clear-ish rather than frosted? - so I'll get them ordered up. LED bulbs themselves look good, and give a nice warm light. I may get more for other places.
It also looks like I need to have the painted plastic jobbie off (presumably it just unscrews?) so I can clean up and treat/paint the rust.
The adventures continue.
I had a go at offering up one of the alternative alloys I've got tucked away. Looks like they'll fit perfectly. It looks odd because the tyre is both a different size and flat.
I'll need to decide whether to fit the tyres with the alloys as they are, or get them refurbed. I'm in at least two minds about it.
Next up: the gearbox. The car's been with a specialist for the last couple of days. Nice folk, and clearly know vintage Mercedes. I wonder whether they're a little bit too busy for their own good at the moment.
The car is pronounced generally in surprisingly good nick given the mileage (a hair under 317k miles), but the gearbox needs a refurb - they agree about the noises, the jerky shifts are (I think) being chalked up to the box needing a refresh, and when the fluid & filter were pulled there was gunk atop the filter, suggesting there's been some wear.
I'm waiting for a price on a refurb but will probably look to get another opinion - I think the jerky changes are most likely vacuum-related and, if so, I'd like to get that sorted PDQ as it makes the car uncomfortable. I guess I need to learn about the interface betwixt vacuum and box - my amateur hunch is that the vacuum modulator is toast, but I know nothing.
In the slightly longer term, I need to decide what to do about the box. I don't know how much a refurb would be; the alternative is to put in a used box. But the fitting costs will be the same, and a used box - unless I'm looking in the wrong places - runs the risk of being on its way out itself.
Hmm.
I had a go at offering up one of the alternative alloys I've got tucked away. Looks like they'll fit perfectly. It looks odd because the tyre is both a different size and flat.
I'll need to decide whether to fit the tyres with the alloys as they are, or get them refurbed. I'm in at least two minds about it.
Next up: the gearbox. The car's been with a specialist for the last couple of days. Nice folk, and clearly know vintage Mercedes. I wonder whether they're a little bit too busy for their own good at the moment.
The car is pronounced generally in surprisingly good nick given the mileage (a hair under 317k miles), but the gearbox needs a refurb - they agree about the noises, the jerky shifts are (I think) being chalked up to the box needing a refresh, and when the fluid & filter were pulled there was gunk atop the filter, suggesting there's been some wear.
I'm waiting for a price on a refurb but will probably look to get another opinion - I think the jerky changes are most likely vacuum-related and, if so, I'd like to get that sorted PDQ as it makes the car uncomfortable. I guess I need to learn about the interface betwixt vacuum and box - my amateur hunch is that the vacuum modulator is toast, but I know nothing.
In the slightly longer term, I need to decide what to do about the box. I don't know how much a refurb would be; the alternative is to put in a used box. But the fitting costs will be the same, and a used box - unless I'm looking in the wrong places - runs the risk of being on its way out itself.
Hmm.
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