My midlife crisis purchase; E86 BMW Z4 Coupe
Discussion
d_a_n1979 said:
Bloody hell Sam; can the codes be cleared? Or do they clear and then come back?
Codes will clear but come back. I cleared them last night (again). It’ll start with no warning light but it’ll make an appearance as soon as I next start it.
The indy that I spoke to mentioned that it sounds like a possible issue with try air / fuel mixture due to a vacuum leak after the MAF. I can’t see anything by eye and am struggling to find someone to look at it.
I wish I’d just lived with the oil consumption now.
JakeT said:
Unplug all of the heaters for the hoses and valve under the inlet and then try it. All they serve to do is stop the hoses freezing and splitting, snd we’ve little chance of that for a while.
Good call….I might do them one by one to see if I can isolate which one is causing me grief.On another forum, some mentioned the pins getting bent in the power box because they’re small and you’re plugging them in my feel. I’ll check that if I need to pull the manifold again. Luckily the power box is dead cheap and available separately if there is a bent connection pin or two.
Court_S said:
I haven’t no. They’re on the list because they’re not too far away.
They did a good job on my injectors and DCT service, if you recall me mentioning on your last thread. Quoted me quite a long lead time initially, but I left the car with them as it was borked, and they turned it around quite quickly.
So, I did some more faffing with this car at lunchtime.
I might have found the vacuum leak. This part of the sound generator hadn’t been out back together fully.
Getting the raise sort inside of the hose to seat properly in the groove on the bracket took some doing. So it looks like user error on my behalf; I hadn’t really considered how integral the sound generator is to the vacuum system.
I’ve also unplugged the CCV heater plug to see if the fuse blows again. I’ll be really cross if it’s that that’s blowing the fuse because it’s a new part and a pain in the bum to get to. If it’s either of the pipes, I’ll be less fussed because at least one of them can easily be changed without touching the manifold. I might be able to do the return pipe with the manifold in situ but I think I’ll be better off just loose it off.
I’m on the school run at 3pm so it’ll be interesting to see if the idle is solid now and if the bloody check engine light makes a reappearance.
I might have found the vacuum leak. This part of the sound generator hadn’t been out back together fully.
Getting the raise sort inside of the hose to seat properly in the groove on the bracket took some doing. So it looks like user error on my behalf; I hadn’t really considered how integral the sound generator is to the vacuum system.
I’ve also unplugged the CCV heater plug to see if the fuse blows again. I’ll be really cross if it’s that that’s blowing the fuse because it’s a new part and a pain in the bum to get to. If it’s either of the pipes, I’ll be less fussed because at least one of them can easily be changed without touching the manifold. I might be able to do the return pipe with the manifold in situ but I think I’ll be better off just loose it off.
I’m on the school run at 3pm so it’ll be interesting to see if the idle is solid now and if the bloody check engine light makes a reappearance.
What a pain. I reckon though your fuse blowing and O2 heater codes should go with those disconnected, but as you say it’s annoying. I think I bought a Febi valve and hoses in 2020 and they’ve been fine. Oil usage is probably a litre every 3,000 miles but I have 214k on mine so it’s definitely not a box fresh one now.
JakeT said:
Isn’t there a supply, and three loads? Why not disconnect the supply to make sure it’s fixed, and then re-add them to see what causes the fuse to blow.
Is the supply the bottom one? The top one is form the CCV, then the next two are the oil return pipe and the rocker cover to CCV. roadie said:
Crazy frustrating. Do you have any plans to delete the sound generator like I think you did with the 130i?
I think it’ll be staying! It seems a bit different to the one in the 1 series cars which were fine if it was removed. This seems to crap it’s pants if it’s not connected properly.
Court_S said:
Is the supply the bottom one? The top one is form the CCV, then the next two are the oil return pipe and the rocker cover to CCV.
I think they’re all wired in parallel so it doesn’t matter how they go together. I’d think about disconnecting them all in that case, or seeing which look to go to the inlet and which goes back to the engine wiring looks. I think you’re on the right track though!JakeT said:
I think they’re all wired in parallel so it doesn’t matter how they go together. I’d think about disconnecting them all in that case, or seeing which look to go to the inlet and which goes back to the engine wiring looks. I think you’re on the right track though!
The top one has to go to the oil separator block because it’s so short. That’s been unplugged and the light has still come on and I’m sure the fuse has blown again. I’m going to try one at a time for now until which of the remaining three are causing me issues. I’m determined to dine out which of them it is (just as well I bought a big box of fuses
).Court_S said:
Another blown fuse.
The oil separator block is plugged back in and the vent pipe from the back of the rocker cover is unplugged this time. Two culprits left after this one; oil return feed and the main power supply.
Hi Sam - do you want my 12 sledgehammer? Can send it next day delivery The oil separator block is plugged back in and the vent pipe from the back of the rocker cover is unplugged this time. Two culprits left after this one; oil return feed and the main power supply.
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