2012 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 (L322)
Discussion
it's not pretty and in hindsight I would probably go through the door card but it's open. A bit of scraping on the door though. All because I did not secure one end of the cable correctly. Fool.
I tried a hacksaw but I lost interest at 90 mins so a friend's electric saw made quick work of it.
The handle release still doesn't feel as good as the other doors so I may buy a new latch. It was nice to drive it again though.
I tried a hacksaw but I lost interest at 90 mins so a friend's electric saw made quick work of it.
The handle release still doesn't feel as good as the other doors so I may buy a new latch. It was nice to drive it again though.
A couple of parts arrived today: a decent used rear lamp and NOS OSF body weatherseal.
Compare and contrast:
A lovely person used a 10mm bolt instead of the correct M6 screw which felt as though it would snap but fortunately it came out. I have ordered a bag of 10 of the correct screws from JLR Classic as they are all as one would expect for a 12 year old JLR part.
After fitting the weatherseal the sill plate would not go back, but it's had it anyway. I presume this is illuminated if it was working?
Compare and contrast:
A lovely person used a 10mm bolt instead of the correct M6 screw which felt as though it would snap but fortunately it came out. I have ordered a bag of 10 of the correct screws from JLR Classic as they are all as one would expect for a 12 year old JLR part.
After fitting the weatherseal the sill plate would not go back, but it's had it anyway. I presume this is illuminated if it was working?
I have no FFRR knowledge whatsoever, but I recently replaced the front passenger door latch on my wife’s S211 E class. If you fitted the latch with less than the requisite amount of care, it was possible to install it in a manner that rendered the external handle inoperable, so it may be worthwhile removing and reinstalling again just in case this is similar.
I also feared being left with a door requiring a crowbar to open, so I used a chunky shafted screwdriver as a makeshift keep to test the lock and latch mechanism with the door open, being satisfied it operated correctly before closing the door.
I also feared being left with a door requiring a crowbar to open, so I used a chunky shafted screwdriver as a makeshift keep to test the lock and latch mechanism with the door open, being satisfied it operated correctly before closing the door.
Yes, I am reading the workshop manual and there is an adjustment process so I will do that. The lowest price for a new one i have seen is £200. It did open today though. Odd.
A win and a fail today.
New air filters fitted: From left to right > RH; LH; new.
Depending on useage I reckon one could replace the LH filter at twice the mileage of the RH.
I must be missing something as I could not fit this RHF bumper deflector, despite ordering the correct plastic nuts. The fitting is hidden on the LHF but I think there must be a couple of screws required
A couple of more parts due tomorrow.
A win and a fail today.
New air filters fitted: From left to right > RH; LH; new.
Depending on useage I reckon one could replace the LH filter at twice the mileage of the RH.
I must be missing something as I could not fit this RHF bumper deflector, despite ordering the correct plastic nuts. The fitting is hidden on the LHF but I think there must be a couple of screws required
A couple of more parts due tomorrow.
I think I have fixed the door, fingers crossed. I RTFM more closely and I noticed a missing grommet where the three screws are that hold the latch. A peep in there is a 4mm Allen adjustment screw. I turned it fully clockwise and now the door reliably opens. The manual says wind it two turns but that does not open the door.
Coupled with the new weatherseal, the door has a more pleasing action. I need a new grommet though.
Coupled with the new weatherseal, the door has a more pleasing action. I need a new grommet though.
The new rear lamp screws are much better and I sourced a decent used LH rear lamp. I decided against the Chinese eBay ones as I could not find a review on them, good or bad.
If I can find any enthusiasm I may put one of the old lamps in the oven and see if that softens the glue enough to remove the lens.
If I can find any enthusiasm I may put one of the old lamps in the oven and see if that softens the glue enough to remove the lens.
tobinen said:
Yes, I am reading the workshop manual and there is an adjustment process so I will do that. The lowest price for a new one i have seen is £200. It did open today though. Odd.
A win and a fail today.
New air filters fitted: From left to right > RH; LH; new.
Depending on useage I reckon one could replace the LH filter at twice the mileage of the RH.
A couple of more parts due tomorrow.
Yes I changed mine the other day and one was like new.A win and a fail today.
New air filters fitted: From left to right > RH; LH; new.
Depending on useage I reckon one could replace the LH filter at twice the mileage of the RH.
A couple of more parts due tomorrow.
tobinen said:
I disconnected the battery for an hour and it started. There was a low coolant warning so more investigation required. I topped up with the orange coolant, hopefully that is correct as Halfords website said so but its in-store book said blue.
There are no obvious leaks but it's gained the noise of a cricket.
There are no obvious leaks but it's gained the noise of a cricket.
Oil change done today at 155,088 miles, though I made a meal of an easy job. My £10 Lidl oil pump would not suck a drop but I may have blundered by hooking it up to the vacuum hand pump tank and that may have been too air tight for it - not sure. Anyway, two pumps by hand and away it started. I used the same pump as Sam's M&M. 9.5 litres out/in - I had to empty the tank as it was full at 9 litres.
Costs are (everything from eBay bar the Lidl pump):
Nielsen hand pump £48
Oil from S&A £85 (enough for two changes)
Mann oil filter £16 IIRC
Lidl pump £10
36mm socket £5-ish
Pump ran OK but not a drop sucked. May be my fault though.
Hand action worked fine
Costs are (everything from eBay bar the Lidl pump):
Nielsen hand pump £48
Oil from S&A £85 (enough for two changes)
Mann oil filter £16 IIRC
Lidl pump £10
36mm socket £5-ish
Pump ran OK but not a drop sucked. May be my fault though.
Hand action worked fine
Range Rover looks nice, and the best way to get to know a car is to spend time working on it! (As much as that can be a pain - I know from experience)
I don't know why but I had to chuckle at the section in the Oil analysis company's letter where they say they'll phone you if there's an imminent problem
"Hello [Customer]? It's the oil analysis company. Look mate, wouldn't even start it - it's going to s
t itself"
I don't know why but I had to chuckle at the section in the Oil analysis company's letter where they say they'll phone you if there's an imminent problem
"Hello [Customer]? It's the oil analysis company. Look mate, wouldn't even start it - it's going to s
t itself" Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff