Mercedes W124 E300D estate - progress, or not...
Discussion
At least it's nothing vital.
A bit of a mixed bag today:
- Rear window regulator channels greased up successfully.
- One rear check strap not changed, because the pin won't come out. I'll try again tomorrow. It's also a bolt short (the one at the rear of the unit) so I'll need to find out the spec for the bolt.
- One door check strap replaced, but I can't get the pin fully in! Given the lack of protection in transit, I suspect the arm is slightly bent. I'll try again tomorrow.
- Anti-roll bar removed, cleaned & painted. But I cannot, for the life of me, see how the bushes will get to where they should go. I can't get the inner bushes (the larger-diameter ones) even to the bend, let alone round them, and I can't get the smaller outer bushes onto the end of the bar. I've got the Febi 18046 kit, which should work, unless I've actually got a thicker bar on the car.
Car is still up on axle stands, and I'll have another run at it tomorrow.
A bit of a mixed bag today:
- Rear window regulator channels greased up successfully.
- One rear check strap not changed, because the pin won't come out. I'll try again tomorrow. It's also a bolt short (the one at the rear of the unit) so I'll need to find out the spec for the bolt.
- One door check strap replaced, but I can't get the pin fully in! Given the lack of protection in transit, I suspect the arm is slightly bent. I'll try again tomorrow.
- Anti-roll bar removed, cleaned & painted. But I cannot, for the life of me, see how the bushes will get to where they should go. I can't get the inner bushes (the larger-diameter ones) even to the bend, let alone round them, and I can't get the smaller outer bushes onto the end of the bar. I've got the Febi 18046 kit, which should work, unless I've actually got a thicker bar on the car.
Car is still up on axle stands, and I'll have another run at it tomorrow.
Looks like I have the wrong kit. The Febi 18046 kit has 18mm & 26mm ID bushes. The part number on one of the old bushes is 1243234585, which is a 27.5mm ID.
I need the 18098.
Arse.
At least they're not expensive, but it's the hassle of putting the wheels back on and the car back in position (currently hanging over the pavement) that's a pain.
I'll check the other old bush part number tomorrow, then probably order the right kit.
I need the 18098.
Arse.
At least they're not expensive, but it's the hassle of putting the wheels back on and the car back in position (currently hanging over the pavement) that's a pain.
I'll check the other old bush part number tomorrow, then probably order the right kit.
Door check strap bolts are all, supposedly, M6 x12mm hex head. I've ordered some in - we'll see if they fit.
If they do, the bolt in the other door isn't original. And I suspect it isn't, because it's longer and the old check strap had a plastic sleeve that the originals (I believe) didn't have.
If they do, the bolt in the other door isn't original. And I suspect it isn't, because it's longer and the old check strap had a plastic sleeve that the originals (I believe) didn't have.
...and so begins the slippery slope...
It looks like I'd need to drop the shock to replace those bits, so it's be a good time to replace the top mounts as they're showing their age.
And then, if the shock is out at the top, it's only three bolts to change the shock too....
Of course, nothing is that straight-forward, but it looks like something I could do while being stuck at home.
£170ish for a full set of Sachs bits - shocks, top mounts, bump stops & dust covers. Seems a reasonable price, but I dont know what rep Sachs has for suspension stuff.
It looks like I'd need to drop the shock to replace those bits, so it's be a good time to replace the top mounts as they're showing their age.
And then, if the shock is out at the top, it's only three bolts to change the shock too....
Of course, nothing is that straight-forward, but it looks like something I could do while being stuck at home.
£170ish for a full set of Sachs bits - shocks, top mounts, bump stops & dust covers. Seems a reasonable price, but I dont know what rep Sachs has for suspension stuff.
Northbrook said:
...and so begins the slippery slope...
It looks like I'd need to drop the shock to replace those bits, so it's be a good time to replace the top mounts as they're showing their age.
And then, if the shock is out at the top, it's only three bolts to change the shock too....
Of course, nothing is that straight-forward, but it looks like something I could do while being stuck at home.
£170ish for a full set of Sachs bits - shocks, top mounts, bump stops & dust covers. Seems a reasonable price, but I dont know what rep Sachs has for suspension stuff.
Sachs make a lot of factory fitted suspension parts so it’s good quality.It looks like I'd need to drop the shock to replace those bits, so it's be a good time to replace the top mounts as they're showing their age.
And then, if the shock is out at the top, it's only three bolts to change the shock too....
Of course, nothing is that straight-forward, but it looks like something I could do while being stuck at home.
£170ish for a full set of Sachs bits - shocks, top mounts, bump stops & dust covers. Seems a reasonable price, but I dont know what rep Sachs has for suspension stuff.
Dammit Ian! Don't give me more work to do!
Correct bush kit is ordered. Febi 01858, £13ish.
Front shocks, top mounts, bump stops & dust covers ordered. Bilstein B4 shocks (p/n 21-001856), Lemforder top mounts (0140320001HD), Febi bump stops & dust covers (13034), £172 delivered from Autodoc.
Car is back on the ground and parked up until I've got the right bits. I don't know how much I'll notice the new shocks - or how far gone any of the bits might be - but I figured I may as well change them out while I'm at it.
One day, the paintwork will get some attention. Until then, the car looks as scruffy as ever, but I think I like it that way.
Correct bush kit is ordered. Febi 01858, £13ish.
Front shocks, top mounts, bump stops & dust covers ordered. Bilstein B4 shocks (p/n 21-001856), Lemforder top mounts (0140320001HD), Febi bump stops & dust covers (13034), £172 delivered from Autodoc.
Car is back on the ground and parked up until I've got the right bits. I don't know how much I'll notice the new shocks - or how far gone any of the bits might be - but I figured I may as well change them out while I'm at it.
One day, the paintwork will get some attention. Until then, the car looks as scruffy as ever, but I think I like it that way.
It wouldn't surprise me if they haven't been changed for 10+ years - the previous owner got things done when they failed, but I don't think he was a preventive maintenance type except for basic servicing.
No matter - even if the ones on the car are okay, it's something else changed out and perhaps upgraded from being worn.
No matter - even if the ones on the car are okay, it's something else changed out and perhaps upgraded from being worn.
Right then - the front ARB is back on the car.
I'm not going to say it was a bugger of a job, but it was a bit of a challenge to get everything lined up while shuffling from one corner to the other. Some persistence required, with a little bit of swearing and only light flesh wounds.
Anyway:
Newly painted bar
All bolted back in (excuse the block o'wood)
I found the best way was to get the inner bushes as close to in their brackets as possible, then rotate the bar to get the outer bushes where they needed to be. Had to use some vice grips, once I had each bracket on loosely with one bolt, to get things compressed enough to start the other bolt/stud. But I got there.
Other things while I was working:
Not sure the brake discs look too good, and on both sides the pads are in constant contact.
I'm pondering replacing the discs, pads and as much hardware as I can easily source. Would cost ~£100 for decent brands. I would also do the splash guards - even the £15 jobs would be better than what's on there - but that looks like it's a hub-off job and, if so, will have to wait.
The spring on the passenger side has some paint chipped & surface rust in a couple of places, and a little on the vertical sheet metal behind the spring. Not sure what's happened there, but I'll aim to touch it up next time the wheel is off.
The bushes on the lower control arms don't look great. Not a job I'd do myself, because of the spring, but I'll have to bear it in mind (unless anyone says differently).
The inside of the passenger side wheel has some marks on the sidewall of the tyre. Tyres were new shortly after I bought the car, and I can't imagine the cause unless there's something on the shock that's rubbing sometimes. Perhaps the securing piece for the shock dust cover.
My nuts don't match.
And that's that for now. I'll need to dig out my torque wrench (as opposed to the one I've 'borrowed' from a friend for the last 18 months) and see if it goes as low as the torque needed for the ARB nuts, which is 20....somethings.
Waiting for my shocks to be despatched. And waiting for ECP to respond to my chaser.
I'm not going to say it was a bugger of a job, but it was a bit of a challenge to get everything lined up while shuffling from one corner to the other. Some persistence required, with a little bit of swearing and only light flesh wounds.
Anyway:
Newly painted bar
All bolted back in (excuse the block o'wood)
I found the best way was to get the inner bushes as close to in their brackets as possible, then rotate the bar to get the outer bushes where they needed to be. Had to use some vice grips, once I had each bracket on loosely with one bolt, to get things compressed enough to start the other bolt/stud. But I got there.
Other things while I was working:
Not sure the brake discs look too good, and on both sides the pads are in constant contact.
I'm pondering replacing the discs, pads and as much hardware as I can easily source. Would cost ~£100 for decent brands. I would also do the splash guards - even the £15 jobs would be better than what's on there - but that looks like it's a hub-off job and, if so, will have to wait.
The spring on the passenger side has some paint chipped & surface rust in a couple of places, and a little on the vertical sheet metal behind the spring. Not sure what's happened there, but I'll aim to touch it up next time the wheel is off.
The bushes on the lower control arms don't look great. Not a job I'd do myself, because of the spring, but I'll have to bear it in mind (unless anyone says differently).
The inside of the passenger side wheel has some marks on the sidewall of the tyre. Tyres were new shortly after I bought the car, and I can't imagine the cause unless there's something on the shock that's rubbing sometimes. Perhaps the securing piece for the shock dust cover.
My nuts don't match.
And that's that for now. I'll need to dig out my torque wrench (as opposed to the one I've 'borrowed' from a friend for the last 18 months) and see if it goes as low as the torque needed for the ARB nuts, which is 20....somethings.
Waiting for my shocks to be despatched. And waiting for ECP to respond to my chaser.
Can I ask about the ARB as I need to do this job on my 129 and have the parts at last.
1. Is the bar under tension? if so, do the ends want to spring down or up when you release them? or does it line up roughly OK?
2. what order did you disassemble and re-assembler? Did you unfasten the inners or the outers first?
As for ECP, I ordered an exhaust for the Spartan from CarParts4Less (which is ECP) on 28 March and haven't heard anything despite chasing twice.
1. Is the bar under tension? if so, do the ends want to spring down or up when you release them? or does it line up roughly OK?
2. what order did you disassemble and re-assembler? Did you unfasten the inners or the outers first?
As for ECP, I ordered an exhaust for the Spartan from CarParts4Less (which is ECP) on 28 March and haven't heard anything despite chasing twice.
So. I put the front of the car on axle stands at the front jacking points. Gave me enough space, although a lift would make most of the job that bit easier. But who has a lift?
Disassembly was - for me - a bit of a challenge to get the bolts undone, but getting the bar out was relatively okay once I dropped the front of the undertray (and found a screwdriver). I started off by trying to take the bar out sideways, but that's a bit of a non-starter. I think I undid the outer brackets first, but I'm not sure it makes much difference. If replacing the bushes in situ, I'd undo the outer brackets first.
One comment at this point: unless you feel the need to remove the bar, the Autodoc YT vid for the W201 shows that it can be done with the bar still on the car, held by the brackets on the other side. In my case, I wanted to check the bar over and give it a coat of paint. It was (and is) pretty gnarly. My bar has perhaps not been off for some time - if ever - as the bushes were MB and there was no surface treatment other than powder coating, which varied from absent through flaking through blown to barnacle-like. With that said, being under the engine the centre of the bar was fairly well preserved by the quantity of dropped oil in the area, so....
I was concerned about tension and, to be fair, there is some. What I found to be the main challenges were: (1) seating the bushed bar into the fixed semi-circular brackets so I could put the separate brackets on top (this is a bit of a lost cause - the springiness of the new rubber means the bushes won't sit in the brackets until compressed by the fixings; (2) securing the separate brackets & nuts/bolts/studs, which is where the vice grips came in handy, but was compounded by (3) the tension on the bar, which meant that - once the inner brackets were loosely secured - the ends of the bar needed to be pushed backwards into the outer bush brackets. I was careful while undoing, but it was fine.
I think the bar will be under upward tension on the ends when the car is on its wheels, but when the front is up it's a fiddle but not too bad. If you don't need to repaint the bar, I'd be tempted to do a side at a time. Maybe drop the undertray to check the paint condition and, if it looks okay, don't drop the whole bar. A couple of supports for the bar would be useful - my trolley jack came in handy.
I'd gladly offer to lend a hand, but I don't think it'd be considered an essential trip...
Disassembly was - for me - a bit of a challenge to get the bolts undone, but getting the bar out was relatively okay once I dropped the front of the undertray (and found a screwdriver). I started off by trying to take the bar out sideways, but that's a bit of a non-starter. I think I undid the outer brackets first, but I'm not sure it makes much difference. If replacing the bushes in situ, I'd undo the outer brackets first.
One comment at this point: unless you feel the need to remove the bar, the Autodoc YT vid for the W201 shows that it can be done with the bar still on the car, held by the brackets on the other side. In my case, I wanted to check the bar over and give it a coat of paint. It was (and is) pretty gnarly. My bar has perhaps not been off for some time - if ever - as the bushes were MB and there was no surface treatment other than powder coating, which varied from absent through flaking through blown to barnacle-like. With that said, being under the engine the centre of the bar was fairly well preserved by the quantity of dropped oil in the area, so....
I was concerned about tension and, to be fair, there is some. What I found to be the main challenges were: (1) seating the bushed bar into the fixed semi-circular brackets so I could put the separate brackets on top (this is a bit of a lost cause - the springiness of the new rubber means the bushes won't sit in the brackets until compressed by the fixings; (2) securing the separate brackets & nuts/bolts/studs, which is where the vice grips came in handy, but was compounded by (3) the tension on the bar, which meant that - once the inner brackets were loosely secured - the ends of the bar needed to be pushed backwards into the outer bush brackets. I was careful while undoing, but it was fine.
I think the bar will be under upward tension on the ends when the car is on its wheels, but when the front is up it's a fiddle but not too bad. If you don't need to repaint the bar, I'd be tempted to do a side at a time. Maybe drop the undertray to check the paint condition and, if it looks okay, don't drop the whole bar. A couple of supports for the bar would be useful - my trolley jack came in handy.
I'd gladly offer to lend a hand, but I don't think it'd be considered an essential trip...
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