Fisher Fury, impuse buy!
Discussion
Monday night was the hardest I've driven it yet. First time I felt confident enough to lean on it abit. Trying to keep up with an I4 M550 my buddy has borrowed from work.
It's so much fun to pedal down a twisty b road. It sounds glorious too!
Still lots to sort ant I really need to turn my attention to the body so I can get it wrapped so the car it nice ane presentable.
My only grumble on Monday, was above 6k it really reverberates the engine noise vibration through the body. So last night I did the engine mounts I was putting off as my buddy needed his press back.
And I also modified the Speedo drive from the gearbox as this pokes onto the trans tunnel. There was also a 1/2meter tail of speedo drive cable still on it.
Whilst this probably isn't the only cause. It's going to be part of it. And now I can make some nice blanking plates to cover up the hole. And the drain hole.
There's a few other culprits. That probably start to resonate/vibrate when the engine is singing.
I'm not expecting it tobe smooth and quiet. And I'd say I've got a reasonable tolerance for NVH. Hopefully the engine mounts were a big factor
It's so much fun to pedal down a twisty b road. It sounds glorious too!
Still lots to sort ant I really need to turn my attention to the body so I can get it wrapped so the car it nice ane presentable.
My only grumble on Monday, was above 6k it really reverberates the engine noise vibration through the body. So last night I did the engine mounts I was putting off as my buddy needed his press back.
And I also modified the Speedo drive from the gearbox as this pokes onto the trans tunnel. There was also a 1/2meter tail of speedo drive cable still on it.
Whilst this probably isn't the only cause. It's going to be part of it. And now I can make some nice blanking plates to cover up the hole. And the drain hole.
There's a few other culprits. That probably start to resonate/vibrate when the engine is singing.
I'm not expecting it tobe smooth and quiet. And I'd say I've got a reasonable tolerance for NVH. Hopefully the engine mounts were a big factor
Zephyr Speedshop said:
the TPS is the FAJS one that suites the ITB's there the cheapy FAJS ones too. im reasonable confident its todo with them. as its sorts itself out quite quickley if theres some airspeed through them.
That's fairly standard behaviour for them! Variohm make a contactless / hall effect sensor that is a direct swap for that pot and is well priced compared to the Bosch motorsport sensors. It's a twin track pot but you'll only need the "rising" side of it. Should be available from all the usual places.Zephyr Speedshop said:
another factor was the tps was calibrated at a value of 7 which is really close to 0 volts, this was maxed out on its adjustment buy guy when tunning. i modified it and go it up to a value of 15, which its closer to the 20 the guy wanted. which i think make things much more stable. i cant drill it out any more as it will go through the casing now.
You may find that's a function of the throttles being big for the engine, essentially you're more closed at idle than expected in the design so off the end of the pot. The Variohm pot (and most contactless ones) are a 360 degree measurement so likely you can get one of those in the ball park without any grinding or drilling 
Technically at 360 degrees the resolution will be lower than your current pot (degrees per V) but the accuracy is so much greater that this doesn't matter but does mean you'll need to rescale the TPS calibration in the ECU.Zephyr Speedshop said:
and thanks its a bloody handy thing to have knocking about! it was my great grand fathers, he bought it some time after the war, and was an avid tinkerer much like myself.
I have a 7 that was my Dads, one should never underestimate how useful a lathe (any lathe!) is and I still make several bits on the just post war Myford that end up on some fairly modern kit. Always a pleasure to see one being used.poppopbangbang said:
Zephyr Speedshop said:
the TPS is the FAJS one that suites the ITB's there the cheapy FAJS ones too. im reasonable confident its todo with them. as its sorts itself out quite quickley if theres some airspeed through them.
That's fairly standard behaviour for them! Variohm make a contactless / hall effect sensor that is a direct swap for that pot and is well priced compared to the Bosch motorsport sensors. It's a twin track pot but you'll only need the "rising" side of it. Should be available from all the usual places.Zephyr Speedshop said:
another factor was the tps was calibrated at a value of 7 which is really close to 0 volts, this was maxed out on its adjustment buy guy when tunning. i modified it and go it up to a value of 15, which its closer to the 20 the guy wanted. which i think make things much more stable. i cant drill it out any more as it will go through the casing now.
You may find that's a function of the throttles being big for the engine, essentially you're more closed at idle than expected in the design so off the end of the pot. The Variohm pot (and most contactless ones) are a 360 degree measurement so likely you can get one of those in the ball park without any grinding or drilling Technically at 360 degrees the resolution will be lower than your current pot (degrees per V) but the accuracy is so much greater that this doesn't matter but does mean you'll need to rescale the TPS calibration in the ECU.Zephyr Speedshop said:
and thanks its a bloody handy thing to have knocking about! it was my great grand fathers, he bought it some time after the war, and was an avid tinkerer much like myself.
I have a 7 that was my Dads, one should never underestimate how useful a lathe (any lathe!) is and I still make several bits on the just post war Myford that end up on some fairly modern kit. Always a pleasure to see one being used.Is it the VTP11 you're recommending PPBB?
https://www.variohm.com/products/motorsports-senso...
I'll get one ordered if the problem persists.
The 45mm itbs definitely a factor. However as soon as I either use the 2.0 bottom end put cams in or higher comp it will potentially need them. Plus they were cheap even for FAJS ones
Zephyr Speedshop said:
I'm not sure if the omex 600 can cope with a hall TPS. I maybe wrong but it's quite a simple ECU.
Is it the VTP11 you're recommending PPBB?
https://www.variohm.com/products/motorsports-senso...
I'll get one ordered if the problem persists.
The 45mm itbs definitely a factor. However as soon as I either use the 2.0 bottom end put cams in or higher comp it will potentially need them. Plus they were cheap even for FAJS ones
Hall effect TPS will still output the same 0-5V/0.5V-4.5V that a wire wiping pot will so it'll work just fine. Omex 600 is essentially a newer GEMS Mini Zeta so whilst basic it's reliable and absolutely spot on when you just want to run a wasted spark pack and a throttle pot for load. There are much more expensive ECUs out there that don't have as good a positional engine in them!Is it the VTP11 you're recommending PPBB?
https://www.variohm.com/products/motorsports-senso...
I'll get one ordered if the problem persists.
The 45mm itbs definitely a factor. However as soon as I either use the 2.0 bottom end put cams in or higher comp it will potentially need them. Plus they were cheap even for FAJS ones
The pot you've posted it still a contacting pot, just a (much) better one. This is the hall effect: https://www.variohm.com/products/motorsports-senso...
Several places sell them in their own variants/package such as NM: https://www.northamptonmotorsport.com/product/vari...
You can also spec them to measure a specific range within their measuring range e.g. 100 degress from a set start point to give you the best possible resolution with a bit of wiggle room at each end for tolerance.
poppopbangbang said:
Zephyr Speedshop said:
I'm not sure if the omex 600 can cope with a hall TPS. I maybe wrong but it's quite a simple ECU.
Is it the VTP11 you're recommending PPBB?
https://www.variohm.com/products/motorsports-senso...
I'll get one ordered if the problem persists.
The 45mm itbs definitely a factor. However as soon as I either use the 2.0 bottom end put cams in or higher comp it will potentially need them. Plus they were cheap even for FAJS ones
Hall effect TPS will still output the same 0-5V/0.5V-4.5V that a wire wiping pot will so it'll work just fine. Omex 600 is essentially a newer GEMS Mini Zeta so whilst basic it's reliable and absolutely spot on when you just want to run a wasted spark pack and a throttle pot for load. There are much more expensive ECUs out there that don't have as good a positional engine in them!Is it the VTP11 you're recommending PPBB?
https://www.variohm.com/products/motorsports-senso...
I'll get one ordered if the problem persists.
The 45mm itbs definitely a factor. However as soon as I either use the 2.0 bottom end put cams in or higher comp it will potentially need them. Plus they were cheap even for FAJS ones
The pot you've posted it still a contacting pot, just a (much) better one. This is the hall effect: https://www.variohm.com/products/motorsports-senso...
Several places sell them in their own variants/package such as NM: https://www.northamptonmotorsport.com/product/vari...
You can also spec them to measure a specific range within their measuring range e.g. 100 degress from a set start point to give you the best possible resolution with a bit of wiggle room at each end for tolerance.
more fun, last night as some goodies from the interweb showed up.
mocal intercoolers and the rest of a kit to suite my existing sandwich plate. from the remote filter setup.
nice and easy, pretty clear run straight to the sandwich plate. hopefully that will massively help with cooling as be the final nail in the noisy valve train.
not, sure what the old fan is off but its not very powerful, its maybe off the lancia as that where the rad is from. its not a ken low or anything decent just an oem gates one.
good old spal , with a 1200 cfm one. I could have gone brushless, and got even more power but, i didn't want the fan to have more power than the the engine
hopefully this will all help it cope in traffic and as the weather gets hotter. the odd thing is it actually doesn't really have any cooling issue as long as it has good clean air. but as soon as you follow a car at a cruise it seems to start to struggle so hopefully this will all go a long way to sorting it.
I feel like a custom alloy rad with an expansion tanks in is in my near future as, then I can loose the plastic expansion bottle. and have better cooling.
i need to start looking at the air flow through the engine bay now and getting cold air in and, hot air out without it looking like its been backed through Halfords.
mocal intercoolers and the rest of a kit to suite my existing sandwich plate. from the remote filter setup.
nice and easy, pretty clear run straight to the sandwich plate. hopefully that will massively help with cooling as be the final nail in the noisy valve train.
not, sure what the old fan is off but its not very powerful, its maybe off the lancia as that where the rad is from. its not a ken low or anything decent just an oem gates one.
good old spal , with a 1200 cfm one. I could have gone brushless, and got even more power but, i didn't want the fan to have more power than the the engine
hopefully this will all help it cope in traffic and as the weather gets hotter. the odd thing is it actually doesn't really have any cooling issue as long as it has good clean air. but as soon as you follow a car at a cruise it seems to start to struggle so hopefully this will all go a long way to sorting it.
I feel like a custom alloy rad with an expansion tanks in is in my near future as, then I can loose the plastic expansion bottle. and have better cooling.
i need to start looking at the air flow through the engine bay now and getting cold air in and, hot air out without it looking like its been backed through Halfords.
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Friday 5th April 10:40
Cracking early doors drive in her today! It's running really really well now.
Only real issue is I'm getting 100+ psi oil pressure above 6k which seems Abit too much. After doing abit of googling I found this thread (not pressure related but interesting none the less).
http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?t=1138
Quote from the late guy croft, who was the authority on these engines. .
'The answer (in my exp) for best power and reliability too is 75 deg C engine and 85 deg C oil. You can let the engine and oil go hotter, say 80 & 90 when idling but not under load.'
Now my engine is a later 8v so might not be exactly the same. However I wonder if Some of the running issues have been partly Todo with running hot. My fan kicks in at 90c and the thermostat seems to open at 85/ 90c . But this would compound the oil pressure issue. I'm still using the 20/50 Motorsport oil.
I've not really been looking at the oil pressure up the rpm range. So I don't know it it's always been this high or it's Todo with the oil cooler. as I've not been that happy revving it out until now as, it's all working beautifully.
Tempted to go back to the factory oil spec or split the difference. Worried I'm going to stress the pump or push out seals going north of 100psi.
Only real issue is I'm getting 100+ psi oil pressure above 6k which seems Abit too much. After doing abit of googling I found this thread (not pressure related but interesting none the less).
http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?t=1138
Quote from the late guy croft, who was the authority on these engines. .
'The answer (in my exp) for best power and reliability too is 75 deg C engine and 85 deg C oil. You can let the engine and oil go hotter, say 80 & 90 when idling but not under load.'
Now my engine is a later 8v so might not be exactly the same. However I wonder if Some of the running issues have been partly Todo with running hot. My fan kicks in at 90c and the thermostat seems to open at 85/ 90c . But this would compound the oil pressure issue. I'm still using the 20/50 Motorsport oil.
I've not really been looking at the oil pressure up the rpm range. So I don't know it it's always been this high or it's Todo with the oil cooler. as I've not been that happy revving it out until now as, it's all working beautifully.
Tempted to go back to the factory oil spec or split the difference. Worried I'm going to stress the pump or push out seals going north of 100psi.
Dave who rallies a MK1 escort with a 16v TC in thinks the oil pressure isn't an issue. So I'll ignore that! In fact I'm getting around the same pressures as he sees from his engine.
Little niggle the throttle cable got abit sticky. So decided I'd mod the mountain point . I should really have done this before but thought it would be ok.
Bloody love a riv nut !
Fitted a rose joint so the cable outer can self align with the load. Stop it from wearing on one edge.
I forgot to get a picture, but also got rid.of the pedal return spring by using a spare dust cover on the cable it's just the right length to act as a buffer to stop the pedal falling back against the cable.when closed. .
I fitted a 74c thermostat tonight as well. So will see how that goes.
My last meeting of the day cancelled, so I still made it the locksheath classics in time!
After the quite bumpy road so far I'm absolutely loving the car. It's an absolute joy to drive now. There's some minor stuff to sort and lots I want to do with it, but nothing that can't wait (not that I'm in anyway capable of waiting!)
I need to address the head rests or go for full seats. And I need to prep the body and finish fitting the doors, so I can wrap it. I've got the material sat at work! But I need a clear weekend where I'm in the right mindset to get the body sorted.
I've gone super boring after all of my previous chat and going for one main colour and the wheel colour for detailing.
Little niggle the throttle cable got abit sticky. So decided I'd mod the mountain point . I should really have done this before but thought it would be ok.
Bloody love a riv nut !
Fitted a rose joint so the cable outer can self align with the load. Stop it from wearing on one edge.
I forgot to get a picture, but also got rid.of the pedal return spring by using a spare dust cover on the cable it's just the right length to act as a buffer to stop the pedal falling back against the cable.when closed. .
I fitted a 74c thermostat tonight as well. So will see how that goes.
My last meeting of the day cancelled, so I still made it the locksheath classics in time!
After the quite bumpy road so far I'm absolutely loving the car. It's an absolute joy to drive now. There's some minor stuff to sort and lots I want to do with it, but nothing that can't wait (not that I'm in anyway capable of waiting!)
I need to address the head rests or go for full seats. And I need to prep the body and finish fitting the doors, so I can wrap it. I've got the material sat at work! But I need a clear weekend where I'm in the right mindset to get the body sorted.
I've gone super boring after all of my previous chat and going for one main colour and the wheel colour for detailing.
Little up date.
Fitted the headed seat kit to the drivers side. Which is bloody decent. Takes it a little while to get going but I had to put it on the lower setting on a longer drive! Kinda perfect for the fury on those colder mornings and Evenings just makes it abit more comfortable
It's a neat little setup really simple to fit just need to do the pas side.
Took her out for a morning blast on the Hampshire ring. Noticed she sounded abit rough. Found another crack in the exhaust.
Unfortunately the collector is a super horrible cheapy cast one and it's so thin it's not up to the job. My welding is s
t but I doubt anyone could weld it up it's paper thin in places.
So decided to to patch it with some spare 1mm sheet I had. After spending way too long trying to weld it up
It abit rough and yes It should be a back perged TIG weld but quite. Pleased with it as I'm completely self taught. And only had a few mistakes matched off cuts leftover!
Forgot to get a photo but the ports were misaligned. So I filed them best I could. The other annoying issue is the flange that mates to the head. Is cut straight. But the head. Is 45° . So theres a silly step. It's far far better now but I need to invest in some decent diesel grinder bits and make it a straight run as the primary tubes are the correct angle..
I've decided to leave the wrap off for the moment as it seams to have really hammered the manifold especially the collector. Not really sure why. So re purposed a bit of heat shield. To protect the GRP
And off course how else do you get to Dino crazy golf ?
Fitted the headed seat kit to the drivers side. Which is bloody decent. Takes it a little while to get going but I had to put it on the lower setting on a longer drive! Kinda perfect for the fury on those colder mornings and Evenings just makes it abit more comfortable
It's a neat little setup really simple to fit just need to do the pas side.
Took her out for a morning blast on the Hampshire ring. Noticed she sounded abit rough. Found another crack in the exhaust.
Unfortunately the collector is a super horrible cheapy cast one and it's so thin it's not up to the job. My welding is s
t but I doubt anyone could weld it up it's paper thin in places. So decided to to patch it with some spare 1mm sheet I had. After spending way too long trying to weld it up
It abit rough and yes It should be a back perged TIG weld but quite. Pleased with it as I'm completely self taught. And only had a few mistakes matched off cuts leftover!
Forgot to get a photo but the ports were misaligned. So I filed them best I could. The other annoying issue is the flange that mates to the head. Is cut straight. But the head. Is 45° . So theres a silly step. It's far far better now but I need to invest in some decent diesel grinder bits and make it a straight run as the primary tubes are the correct angle..
I've decided to leave the wrap off for the moment as it seams to have really hammered the manifold especially the collector. Not really sure why. So re purposed a bit of heat shield. To protect the GRP
And off course how else do you get to Dino crazy golf ?
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Friday 19th April 20:57
Sorry guys been really busy at work so not much been going on in the garage. There been some fettling, I've fitted the passenger heated seats. And also put some vibration/deadening behind the seats and above fuel tank and on the tunnel. What has made a hell of a difference to the noise on the road. I forgot just how much flat panels vibrate! Only cost me 1/2kg but well worth it.
In other news a package from the USA arrived today.
Don't worry there not rust it's the rust proofing stuff. I'm quite excited about these. But I need the new gaskets to show up. And I need to fit them before I can measure up for the shims. Then I need to degree them. As you can see there's a bit more lift, the duration and overlap thats the big news!
That the spare beta cams I'm comparing them to. I think the ones I. It are 9.8 lift.
In other news a package from the USA arrived today.
Don't worry there not rust it's the rust proofing stuff. I'm quite excited about these. But I need the new gaskets to show up. And I need to fit them before I can measure up for the shims. Then I need to degree them. As you can see there's a bit more lift, the duration and overlap thats the big news!
That the spare beta cams I'm comparing them to. I think the ones I. It are 9.8 lift.
big update then as ive been super lazy with the thread, sorry !
the first issue i ran into with the new cams and pully's was the pulley offset was incorrect for my head. on of the joys of using a head from a evolutional dead end in the TC family tree. there is very very little info about these heads out there.
bear in mind this is with out everything buttoned down. so dusted the lathe off and made some shims to goe inside the pulleys.
theres plenty of engagement in the hub and the outer part of the pulley so im quite happy with the 4mm shims ive made. there almost perfect probably could have gone to 5mm but i wanted to keep 5mm of engagement.
once it was all buttoned down the belt actually sits just on the edge of the pulleys which im happy with especially as they have guide plates.
i fitted the cams timed to 110 deg as per the specs, however this only gave me 2.0mm intake valve clearance, and 0.7mm on the exhaust. so ive adjusted the cams too give 2.5mm of clearance which is what the guycroft book states as a minimum clearance. ive not actually measured the exact timing but there as advanced as i can go. and it runs really well.
degree wheel fitted and homemade piston stop tool.
it took quite alot of time on a Sunday afternoon in the local industrial estate to get the tune to a drivable state and its still full of flat spots but its defiantly making more power up top it feels quicker. i needed less fuel sub 4k and more above that. and alittle messing with the timing.
interesting ly it was defiantly running rich before i took it apart. im wondering if that exhaust crack might have skewed the tuning last time. it drove fine but defiantly sooty.
abit old school for me reading plugs but i don't want or need to spend out on and AFR gauge. when im going to the dyno this Friday.
next task was to loose this, horrible stainless grill that must really restrict airflow. which wont be helping the under bonnet temps.
next was some vents in the sides of the bonnet. try and help the air move around and out the top of the bay.
drivers side is the same, just mirrored over. quite pleased with it, ill fill and fair them neater when i do the wrap.
start them young! had out friends over on Sunday. and when were in the garden i use the stereo in the garage for music so the door was open. he's a proper little boy! just wanted to see what the car was all about! and use it as a climbing frame.
dyno Friday, so hope fully we brake the 130's i think id be happy with that, it defiantly gets pulls its skirt up now, but i don't know if that just because it all happens later. really excited to see what its like tuned as theres some pretty chunky flat spots at the moment.
the first issue i ran into with the new cams and pully's was the pulley offset was incorrect for my head. on of the joys of using a head from a evolutional dead end in the TC family tree. there is very very little info about these heads out there.
bear in mind this is with out everything buttoned down. so dusted the lathe off and made some shims to goe inside the pulleys.
theres plenty of engagement in the hub and the outer part of the pulley so im quite happy with the 4mm shims ive made. there almost perfect probably could have gone to 5mm but i wanted to keep 5mm of engagement.
once it was all buttoned down the belt actually sits just on the edge of the pulleys which im happy with especially as they have guide plates.
i fitted the cams timed to 110 deg as per the specs, however this only gave me 2.0mm intake valve clearance, and 0.7mm on the exhaust. so ive adjusted the cams too give 2.5mm of clearance which is what the guycroft book states as a minimum clearance. ive not actually measured the exact timing but there as advanced as i can go. and it runs really well.
degree wheel fitted and homemade piston stop tool.
it took quite alot of time on a Sunday afternoon in the local industrial estate to get the tune to a drivable state and its still full of flat spots but its defiantly making more power up top it feels quicker. i needed less fuel sub 4k and more above that. and alittle messing with the timing.
interesting ly it was defiantly running rich before i took it apart. im wondering if that exhaust crack might have skewed the tuning last time. it drove fine but defiantly sooty.
abit old school for me reading plugs but i don't want or need to spend out on and AFR gauge. when im going to the dyno this Friday.
next task was to loose this, horrible stainless grill that must really restrict airflow. which wont be helping the under bonnet temps.
next was some vents in the sides of the bonnet. try and help the air move around and out the top of the bay.
drivers side is the same, just mirrored over. quite pleased with it, ill fill and fair them neater when i do the wrap.
start them young! had out friends over on Sunday. and when were in the garden i use the stereo in the garage for music so the door was open. he's a proper little boy! just wanted to see what the car was all about! and use it as a climbing frame.
dyno Friday, so hope fully we brake the 130's i think id be happy with that, it defiantly gets pulls its skirt up now, but i don't know if that just because it all happens later. really excited to see what its like tuned as theres some pretty chunky flat spots at the moment.
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Tuesday 11th June 20:44
A great thread, & good to see when these come up for sale now & then.
My concern is that you got a reasonable one to start with, and it's still needed a lot of extra work to really be useable!
I suppose for some that's the joy, but I'd forever be thinking what's going to need looking at next.
My concern is that you got a reasonable one to start with, and it's still needed a lot of extra work to really be useable!
I suppose for some that's the joy, but I'd forever be thinking what's going to need looking at next.
TrotCanterGallopCharge said:
A great thread, & good to see when these come up for sale now & then.
My concern is that you got a reasonable one to start with, and it's still needed a lot of extra work to really be useable!
I suppose for some that's the joy, but I'd forever be thinking what's going to need looking at next.
ive always fancied one, I'm not really into kit cars but theres not really anything quite like the fury apart from the offshoots of the design. not to be rude but most kit cars don't look right or look like kit cars, the fury looks like it could be from the 60's i suppose its really a copy/ inspired by the ginetta g4's although there big money now, as there eligible for historic racing. My concern is that you got a reasonable one to start with, and it's still needed a lot of extra work to really be useable!
I suppose for some that's the joy, but I'd forever be thinking what's going to need looking at next.
if funds and time allowed id defiantly consider building one as you can still buy the kit. and i could do it to a reasonable standard (abit big headed i know
) but yes your right, and mine isn't the best built ive seen its also not the worst, and this latest round of work. is an upgrade, i should really have been contented at 115bhp as it was plenty fast enough. theres still plenty to-do. but i get a lot out of tinkering, if you've followed any of my other threads you will probably have guessed im a serial fiddler. the one thing i will say even though its needed a fair bit, its be really easy to work on, and relatively cheap. if it had a zetec in it would be a lot cheaper but a little bit boring
. id say go for it, there really not that complicated. especially with a more main stream engine. even if it has a few issues, it won't be to difficult to sort.
theres a yellow phoenix up at the moment that looks like abit of a bargain, and theres a silver stylus, which its the fury's roadgoing cousin both look nice.
- looking forward to seeing where the power & torque is/isn't post the rolling road!shalmaneser said:
Worthwhile getting a wideband surely for a bit of street tuning? You can pick up a second hand wideband sensor for very little these days as so many cars have them from the factory.
It's the gauge/controller. Basically the cheapest one worth using is the aem one. About £180. And once it's tuned I shouldn't need to mess with it. I'd have a totally different attitude if it was boosted. But it will be very obvious if there's an issue why before it hurts itself. So not too worried on that front. Boosted I wouldn't run without one Zephyr Speedshop said:
theres a yellow phoenix up at the moment that looks like abit of a bargain, and theres a silver stylus, which its the fury's roadgoing cousin both look nice.
I'm really keen to get one, as I agree they don't look like all the other kit cars - I've been fancying a low-bonnet no-windscreen version for many years.Used to be it would have to be bike engined - these days I'd probably be more than happy with a revvy car engine. That yellow one looks spot on.
Only thing is my garage is only 3.7m long and barely anything fits in it. I've seen online that they're about 3250 long, but that seems barely credible given a 205 gti is 3710. Do you happen to know how long your car is?
FNG said:
Zephyr Speedshop said:
theres a yellow phoenix up at the moment that looks like abit of a bargain, and theres a silver stylus, which its the fury's roadgoing cousin both look nice.
I'm really keen to get one, as I agree they don't look like all the other kit cars - I've been fancying a low-bonnet no-windscreen version for many years.Used to be it would have to be bike engined - these days I'd probably be more than happy with a revvy car engine. That yellow one looks spot on.
Only thing is my garage is only 3.7m long and barely anything fits in it. I've seen online that they're about 3250 long, but that seems barely credible given a 205 gti is 3710. Do you happen to know how long your car is?
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