Knackered old Porsche with loads of natural light - Boxster!
Discussion
Escy said:
I made 450ft/lb at 3750rpm on a 5 speed gearbox and it held together. I wasn't shy with it either. I was also putting down over 500ft/lb on a OEM B7 RS4 clutch, think the 2wd and lighter weight helped.
Definitely would with regards the clutch, that bodes well for mine! I've aimed to keep everything as close to the OEM ratings as possible as in theory then it'll just work for 100K miles like a standard car does. Seriously impressive that it stayed together at that, it's a good 50% over the rated torque! Absolutely fair play for leaning on it that hard! 
eltax91 said:
Garage is chock full of many many bits of RRC LSE currently.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Oh now I like that! Please tell me you're keeping the green and brown colour scheme as that is just the perfect country RRC combination. That thread is my bed time reading tonight, had a flick through and yes I see exactly what you mean https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
. Time for a bigger garage? poppopbangbang said:
Oh now I like that! Please tell me you're keeping the green and brown colour scheme as that is just the perfect country RRC combination. That thread is my bed time reading tonight, had a flick through and yes I see exactly what you mean . Time for a bigger garage?
100% it’s staying (fresh) Ardennes Green and the leather will get a clean/ renovation in the factory colour. . Time for a bigger garage? poppopbangbang said:
Got the angle grinder out and dropped the rear mounts 25mm 
Happy New Year all! I'm off for a beer
It looks like the might be just enough clearance to the subframe to drop the gearbox mounts using longer studs and a spacer on the mount, dropping the triangle part without cutting and welding?Happy New Year all! I'm off for a beer
I understand the mount is the same for 996 and 986, just 996 has a longer stud - I think the studs will wind out too.
Or is there just about NOT enough space to the subframe to get your 25mm...?
was8v said:
It looks like the might be just enough clearance to the subframe to drop the gearbox mounts using longer studs and a spacer on the mount, dropping the triangle part without cutting and welding?
I understand the mount is the same for 996 and 986, just 996 has a longer stud - I think the studs will wind out too.
Or is there just about NOT enough space to the subframe to get your 25mm...?
I have another set of mounts on the way to play with further but the problem with the longer stud option (which was my first thought) is that there is very limited room below the mount as there is a cross piece in the subframe casting below the nut, also the mounts sag as they age so a new mount may clear but an old one might not. I understand the mount is the same for 996 and 986, just 996 has a longer stud - I think the studs will wind out too.
Or is there just about NOT enough space to the subframe to get your 25mm...?
I am going to investigate this futher but I think the best solution to this is a 3D printed cut guide and a self jigging weld plate for the stock mounts. This would be super neat and any local welder would be able to mod them for 30 minutes labour at that point.
poppopbangbang said:
Ready to go in tomorrow!
No major drama putting the gearbox on, which was nice as it's a bit of a combination of parts from Porsche, Audi and the aftermarket but so far so good
Starter motor got some gold as it lives fairly close to the hot bits so every little helps, it might want a sheild on it but we'll see how things work out as there's some fairly decent airflow down there which should help keep it alive.
Once in there's still a shed load of stuff to do, mostly plumbing and electrical but the integration side of things is fairly straight forward.... somethings, like retaining the original dipstick could be seen as making work but it's a QOL thing to be able to dip the oil from the back if nothing else
Where is the gold from my good friend?No major drama putting the gearbox on, which was nice as it's a bit of a combination of parts from Porsche, Audi and the aftermarket but so far so good
Starter motor got some gold as it lives fairly close to the hot bits so every little helps, it might want a sheild on it but we'll see how things work out as there's some fairly decent airflow down there which should help keep it alive.
Once in there's still a shed load of stuff to do, mostly plumbing and electrical but the integration side of things is fairly straight forward.... somethings, like retaining the original dipstick could be seen as making work but it's a QOL thing to be able to dip the oil from the back if nothing else
Waitey said:
poppopbangbang said:
Starter motor got some gold as it lives fairly close to the hot bits so every little helps, it might want a sheild on it but we'll see how things work out as there's some fairly decent airflow down there which should help keep it alive.
Once in there's still a shed load of stuff to do, mostly plumbing and electrical but the integration side of things is fairly straight forward.... somethings, like retaining the original dipstick could be seen as making work but it's a QOL thing to be able to dip the oil from the back if nothing else
S8.E150
seefarr said:
Waitey said:
poppopbangbang said:
Starter motor got some gold as it lives fairly close to the hot bits so every little helps, it might want a sheild on it but we'll see how things work out as there's some fairly decent airflow down there which should help keep it alive.
Once in there's still a shed load of stuff to do, mostly plumbing and electrical but the integration side of things is fairly straight forward.... somethings, like retaining the original dipstick could be seen as making work but it's a QOL thing to be able to dip the oil from the back if nothing else
S8.E150
poppopbangbang said:
eltax91 said:
Perfect base car! Sub 100K miles, good colour, underside is all there and doesn't look to have been over anything too big. It'll be interesting to see what that goes for!
Waitey said:
Where is the gold from my good friend?
From Tweeks (like so many things ) - it's some Pitking branded stuff from here one: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/pitking-products-s...Keep in mind though (as per the wonderfully graphed post above
) that it's only reflective, not insulating i.e. it'll slow how quickly something heats up but it won't ultimately stop it getting as hot as it would do anyway unless you're bang in the sweet spot of the thermal mass of the component, any ambient cooling, how much heat is coming off something close in a given time period etc. etc. Basically it's good for providing some basic protection from heat sources which are not super hot all the time, the difference in EGT on a turbo engine between on boost and off boost can be quite significant so in this kind of application it works well. If you want to insulate something like footwells then this sort of thing will be much better: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/cool-it-thermo-tec... it is much thicker and provides insulation in addition to a reflective surface.
poppopbangbang said:
From Tweeks (like so many things ) - it's some Pitking branded stuff from here one: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/pitking-products-s...
Keep in mind though (as per the wonderfully graphed post above ) that it's only reflective, not insulating i.e. it'll slow how quickly something heats up but it won't ultimately stop it getting as hot as it would do anyway unless you're bang in the sweet spot of the thermal mass of the component, any ambient cooling, how much heat is coming off something close in a given time period etc. etc.
Basically it's good for providing some basic protection from heat sources which are not super hot all the time, the difference in EGT on a turbo engine between on boost and off boost can be quite significant so in this kind of application it works well. If you want to insulate something like footwells then this sort of thing will be much better: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/cool-it-thermo-tec... it is much thicker and provides insulation in addition to a reflective surface.
Curious, my issue is the manifolds, there's plenty of airflow when moving, but in traffic the radiant heat cooks my feet slowly. ) - it's some Pitking branded stuff from here one: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/pitking-products-s...Keep in mind though (as per the wonderfully graphed post above
) that it's only reflective, not insulating i.e. it'll slow how quickly something heats up but it won't ultimately stop it getting as hot as it would do anyway unless you're bang in the sweet spot of the thermal mass of the component, any ambient cooling, how much heat is coming off something close in a given time period etc. etc. Basically it's good for providing some basic protection from heat sources which are not super hot all the time, the difference in EGT on a turbo engine between on boost and off boost can be quite significant so in this kind of application it works well. If you want to insulate something like footwells then this sort of thing will be much better: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/cool-it-thermo-tec... it is much thicker and provides insulation in addition to a reflective surface.
Funnier is after two hours or so, the heat as travelled along the master cylinders, along the actuating rods and heated the metal pedals up!
Waitey said:
Not to side track this thread, but my manifold is already coated.
I would have a think about insulating the footwells with some of the stuff I posted above and then making (room allowing!) a small heat shield for the masters with a decent airgap between it and the masters themselves. If that doesn't significantly help then you may have to accept this as a feature of the design Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff